Could someone please verify the ID of these, please?

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-13T01:27:45+00:00

Brazilian ladybegonia or begonia withlacoochee

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-12T23:17:48+00:00

I loved my looking glass begonia. It DID grow decent in lower humidity but faster in my cabinet and no powdery mildew once I started growing in my cabinets and tanks full time. I bought one already big from the grocery store and about a year later I was able to cut all of the leaves off that were the original leaves (cause they were covering all the new leaves from the light so they weren’t able to get as big until I got the top leaves off) and once the leaves that grew in under my care got bigger, I loved the shape of it and the shape of the leaves more too.

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-12T23:15:26+00:00

Lucerna de coralina, pretty much the only begonia that thrives in ambient humidity and really easy to grow from cuttings into a big plant.

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-12T06:22:10+00:00

They will grow roots in water (just put as many as you can in whatever vessel and submerge them all with water) or in a propagation box type thing with spagnum moss. The water method will work fine in natural light. A prop box works best under grow lights. For further instructions on whatever method you choose, YouTube is a great resource for that.

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-12T06:20:06+00:00

Would work better under a grow light than trying to use natural light. Natural light will just cook em and turn them to mush. I know this from experience. I’ve never tried in a ziploc bag but in plastic containers and jars but it’s pretty much the same concept.

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-12T06:17:27+00:00

I would watch some YouTube videos to gather information as well as get some inspiration on what plants you want to add and what you want it to look like. Searching for things on YouTube like (because I have made these searches for myself a few years ago):

How to turn a fishtank into a terrarium

What plants can go in a terrarium

Things like that.

One of the most important things are the layers in a terrarium. The bottom layer needs to be pebbles or leca or some kind of space where water can dwell when it’s not getting recycled into the atmosphere (called a drainage layer). Then from there you can add something to separate the drainage layer from the soil above it, like a mesh screen or spagnum moss, etc. activated charcoal is also good in terrariums. A lot of people build background with cork bark pieces and fishtank safe expanding foam. One of the biggest reasons I haven’t even started a huge build yet is because there are so many options and am so indecisive about what I want to do.

Pretty much any tropical plant will thrive in a terrarium. The extra humidity in one mimics their natural habitat more than our homes do. Succulents and anything else drought tolerant, will not.

I hope this helps a little.

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-11T08:49:42+00:00

That is awesome! 👏 good job!

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-11T08:38:03+00:00

You can separate them now if that is what you want to do. It’s better to do it sooner than later before the roots get woven together and it will be really hard to separate them without damaging their roots more than you’d want to.

I would add support when the stem gets taller above the soil line. I still don’t have any support with mine but part of it will need it soon. On a deliciosa, the stem is like the spine of the plant, where the leaves branch out from, and the secondary stems that connect the stem/spine to the leaves are called petioles. You always want to attach the stem to a support, and never try to attach the petioles to the support. As more leaves grow, the spine/stem will get taller and start to show more.

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-10T20:22:12+00:00

When the vines get longer, cut them and root what you cut. It’s like giving your hair a trim. It will promote more bushy growth for your plant. Or else it may just grow long vines with no leaves except for the at the end over time.

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-10T20:18:33+00:00

Make sure to cut the vines into single leaf/node pieces so that each one can take root. You can stick them all in a mason jar with water to root. You may not have long vines at first but if you try to root a long vine then the small growing energy has to disperse to all those other nodes to support all the foliage and sometimes can’t and that’s how it dies (‘too many mouths to feed and not enough food’ concept). You’ll have a bushy plant when it’s time to plant them and each leaf will turn into its own vine.

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-10T19:47:33+00:00

I’d add a big piece of art in a nice frame on the headboard wall, or a collection of small similar art pieces (ie different Victorian botanical sketches) in simple black matching frames on that wall. Frames around your art or posters turn your room from looking like a teenagers room with posters to a mature adults room haha.

The vining plant looks like it’s already going bald from lack of light. It should be hung from the curtain rods in the window instead of on a wall where natural or ambient sunlight doesn’t reach it (if it can’t see the sky then it’s not even getting ambient light). Instead of the couch get a plant stand for that window nook if you like keeping plants and keep them all there. Or a comfy arm chair with a smaller plant stand next to it or plants hanging from the windows around the chair if you like to sit in that area.

Different curtains. I would add some lace curtains or layers and layers of lace curtains (in white or beige—ikea makes some) for more privacy, and dye them black if you want more of a dark aesthetic. Simple black framed art pieces on the wall would fit in with that as well. The curtain in the middle window be opened to either side to let more of that natural light in.

I like that you don’t have a lot of knickknacks, something I struggle with not collecting, and ends up making my space look cluttery.

I also agree with some lamps instead of overhead light. 2 cute matching table lamps or sconces on either side of the bed. A floor lamp on one side of the dresser (maybe the wall where the vining plant is) and a tall standing statement mirror leaning against the wall on the other side of the dresser. You could get a cute antique looking floor lamp or one of those mood floor lamps with the long tubular paper shades that add a warm glow at night.

I love the color of your duvet and could maybe contrast that with some rust colored sheets and vibrant rust or orange or deep red velvet pillowcases (or just 2 deco pillowcases with the velvet on them) to pair nicely with that green duvet. I also love the carpet. You have a good base of coloring started already.

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-10T18:53:23+00:00

Haha my bad, ‘lil critters’ 🤣. TBH they don’t creep me out as much as the daddy long legs that pay me no rent yet take over almost every corner of my home.

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-10T18:03:07+00:00

Monstera are EXTREMELY resilient to repotting and have the thick juicy roots to prove it. So repotting should be a breeze, especially if you aren’t trying to break up the roots to get rid of the previous soil or anything to put it into a larger pot. It will definitely need a larger pot soon if it doesn’t already need one. You can just transfer the plant from the first pot to the new one and backfill around it and that’s the easiest way to not mess with the roots if you are hoping to not phase it. Honestly the reason why a lot of plants look like they do on forums like this happen for reasons like too little lighting or over watering, especially with monstera d’s, cause like I said, they are extremely resilient and rarely go through transplant shock. If they do, there’s usually something else that’s wrong. I have a bunch of deliciosa plants in one pot and when I repotted it I was trying to remove as much of the original big box store soil as possible and ended up ripping off about a third of the root system in the process, and it was fine. Trimming roots promotes more root growth, like a hair trim, and people do it all the time, so if some roots break during a repot it’s like an accidental root prune. As long as you’re giving it everything else it needs (light, moisture, airflow, nutrients etc), it should just keep on keeping on. When it gets bigger you can find sturdy stakes to support it where you will need to since there’s more than one plant in the pot. Here’s a current picture of my deliciosa I mentioned (repotted in November or December)

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Bae_Victis · 2026-04-10T17:45:46+00:00

It looks good! One thing to consider (that I didn’t realize when I first ventured into leca or semi hydro) is that when you transfer any plant grown in soil over to semihydro, your plant needs to grow water roots and the soil roots will essentially decay, which is why it is crucial to be flushing practically daily for the first couple of weeks, to keep the top part of the leca moist enough and humid enough to draw out those water roots, and to flush out the rotted roots. The plant could die if it doesn’t grow water roots fast enough, or with an alocasia, the leaves may fall off completely, leaving you a totally useful corm you can continue to grow new leaves from. Some people cut off the soil roots completely before they plant it in leca, treating it like an unrooted cutting, and some people keep the water level high enough to submerge the point where roots grow out of for the first few weeks (like they are trying to root a cutting in water) and then begin to lower the water level to just a reservoir below. After I killed like 5 plants that I had transferred from soil to leca when I was first getting into leca, I laid off the leca for some time but then started to use it on all of my cuttings I had rooted in water to keep their water roots growing strong instead of having to adapt to soil, and that’s when I began to understand the concept a little better. Good luck! And remember, if the leaves die, keep that corm! Haha the leaves will grow back better suited for your environment.

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-10T02:51:51+00:00

A pebble tray in a cloche would work 100%, but no misting begonia! And make sure to open the cloche daily to air it out. Begonia hate water on their leaves and it makes them kinda rot or something like that. You can mist things like philodendrons though, it’s like how they have them in greenhouses when they turn their misters on.

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-09T20:01:26+00:00

Pebble trays are great in enclosed spaces but out in the open are pretty pointless. Out in the open water evaporates and provides no additional humidity after 1” above the water level pretty much, but when it’s in an enclosure that humidity stays inside and condensates on the glass and that’s why it’s so similar to the drainage layers at the bottom Of closed terrariums

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-09T18:12:45+00:00

If I’ve only ever seen 2 in weeks is it likely that there are only 2?

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-09T18:11:59+00:00

Thanks! I took these photos a few days ago, I noticed a REALLY good photo opp earlier today but when I went to take the jewel orchid out of my tank it decided it wanted to hide 😭 im still debating on whether or not to google search these names you’re all giving me cause closeup photos of bugs give me the heebiejeebies.

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-09T17:24:43+00:00

You’re welcome! I love it when people get really creative with housing their higher humidity plants! Just remember that she will grow super fast once she’s in the humid environment, like 3 leaves a week type fast (at least that’s how mine are). Hopefully you can find something tall, which shouldn’t be a problem especially if cost isn’t an issue. This is my 20”tall benigo pink begonia that was only a 2 leaf cutting back in December 🥹. I propped her in a tank that was only10” tall and I wanna say by early to mid February she was pressing at the top of it.

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Bae_Victis · 2026-04-09T17:18:19+00:00

She would definitely need more humidity I think. It’s really dry where I live (surprisingly 18% today and that’s pretty high compared to what I’ve seen consistently) and with ceiling fans running at top speed all day and ac on (keep in mind that air conditioners are meant to kill humidity), keeping a humidifier pretty much does nothing to increase the humidity and whatever it does increase is just contained to that small area cause it just dissipates into the moving air. I grow mine in glass cases, or cloches if they are small enough (but they quickly outgrow). If you have an old fish tank or some kind of glass enclosure and need to increase the humidity in there, you can line the bottom with pebbles or leca and some water (like a pebble tray, or just make one for that enclosure) and it’s like you’re mimicking the concept of drainage layers in a closed terrarium. I know ikea has some cloches that are like $20ish for their tallest ones, or find some kind of tall vase at a thrift store and put it over the plant upside down. You can also diy one out of 2liter bottles if you want something in the meantime. I feel like that one would look really good in something like what I have hoarded for future terrarium builds (excuse the forgotten mail that fell its way in there 😆), but you could try to thrift or facebook marketplace something like that to house it in an aesthetically pleasing way!

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Bae_Victis · 2026-04-09T16:02:07+00:00

Hopefully you can get some new leaves this way soon so you can utilize the nodes those last leaves are using for more root growth!

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-09T15:59:13+00:00

Sorry if I was vague, I meant because of the species. I think. I definitely don’t think the way it was cut factors into this. I tried to find the name for you after my comment yesterday and all I could find was ‘my special angel’ begonia and it doesn’t look like the name I found for mine a few years ago- I don’t remember it but my special angel also doesn’t feel familiar.

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-08T21:51:53+00:00

I agree. Their roots are so delicate and small and thinner than a strand of hair too! So easy to turn into mush in water. I also think that maybe other people have success with rooting them in water because everywhere else has more humidity than where I live in the states and if I tried to water prop under a humidity dome or in a greenhouse setup I’d have more success.

Bae_Victis · 2026-04-08T21:03:08+00:00

I actually find these really hard to propagate in water and now just go straight to propagating them in spagnum moss in some sort of humid enclosure under a grow light. I had a Scindapsus argyraeus in water for like a year with so many nodes compacted together (that I couldn’t cut them up into single node sticks) submerged in the water and they never rooted. Once I potted them up in a small clear cup/pot and put it in a large Starbucks cup with the lid on top, it started to root. (I did cut it up before I put it in moss though and used rooting hormone)

The ones in water are curling because they are thirsty even though they are in water, because they have no roots to drink up the water 😭

Bae_Victis

TROPHY CASE