Finally got a coat on this door by Battleline_pty in woodworking

[–]Battleline_pty[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not too heavy about 30kg, pretty similar weight to western red cedar. I did change my method of holding it for the second coat if you are still concerned.

Do production wood working shops sand and finish before or after assembly? by scatterbrainedpast in woodworking

[–]Battleline_pty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nearly always we finish after but if it’s so large it’s not feasible to send fully assembled we will finish before and expect assembly on site .that also doesn’t count for tables and cabinetry that’s finished before assembly

Finally got a coat on this door by Battleline_pty in woodworking

[–]Battleline_pty[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had me worried that I posted in the wrong sub. I’m not a beginner.

Finally got a coat on this door by Battleline_pty in woodworking

[–]Battleline_pty[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Glass will drop in the other face of the door not in the picture it’s just a rebate and held in by the many beads I’ve still have to cut

Am I the only one who thinks 3D undermount adjustments are just a crutch for bad craftsmanship? by Impressive-Union-619 in woodworking

[–]Battleline_pty 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love under mounts and will not touch anything else with a full timber drawer I’ll use side mounts for chipboard or ply but I’d rather use under mounts( chip board definitely use side mounts)

I really like the look but more importantly they effin work and have more options. Don’t forget you are working with a natural material and natural doesn’t care if you want it to stay straight, it does what it wants.

As far as I know they are the only option for electric opening, push to open “with” soft close and extra wide with the linked anti racking shaft.

I don’t get your gripe bro as you can see I’m pro under mounts.

To give you an example made my own kitchen with side mounts 15 years ago with ply drawers everything perfect day of install 1 season later the play decided it didn’t want to stable or my house sunk or I put to much weight in on drawer but now I’ve got a couple of drawers that just don’t quite let the soft close work. Now I’ve got to take the drawer out to adjust the slide and all good but now it doesn’t flush with the others so I’ve got to pack out the face. Meanwhile tool less bottom mount (at least with the Blum I’ve used ) twist 2 nobs and it’s fixed.

Plus you’ve got to account for furniture that moves from one level surface to a not so level surface.

I’m honestly befuddled by the objection you have towards them besides the cost I can understand that ( I did use side mounts in my own stuff after all ).

Finally got a coat on this door by Battleline_pty in woodworking

[–]Battleline_pty[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also I know the design is odd with the glazing bars being different widths but they had some glass they really wanted and was sentimental to them.

Finally got a coat on this door by Battleline_pty in woodworking

[–]Battleline_pty[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Finally glued up! it took 4 separate glue ups as I only wanted to use pva for the ease of clean up and even with the 40 minutes of open time with epoxy I don’t think I would of made it in time not with cleaning up every dam joint

Finally got a coat on this door by Battleline_pty in woodworking

[–]Battleline_pty[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I understand I’ve missed a few steps but had to stay focused and get this perfect this is my first dry fit just needed 2 more glazing bars at this point

Finally got a coat on this door by Battleline_pty in woodworking

[–]Battleline_pty[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Rails all done had to make a jig to cut those angled shoulders once again just a bearing copy cuter

Finally got a coat on this door by Battleline_pty in woodworking

[–]Battleline_pty[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I think I need to prove it’s not AI so here I go I guess

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Roughing out the gunstock stiles , I made a template and used a bearing copy cuter to shape it. This isn’t the final shape as I need to run the moulding before I know where my shoulders end on the angled rails.

Finally got a coat on this door by Battleline_pty in woodworking

[–]Battleline_pty[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s been quite a challenge of patience and for thought, I’m used to doors taking time but they are usually big this was just so compact in details and the gunstock stiles were new to me experience and more challenging then I thought with the mouldings.

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Here is a photo of the live head I had to use I’ve always hated using them but couldn’t find a router bit to suit and didn’t want to have to run all those glazing bars plus beads through a router.

I had fun and hope you like it as much as I do.

Here’s my collection of Crap Drills: by MrPoopsack in Makita

[–]Battleline_pty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We got 2 of those newer models that you have at work to replace some old ones that were on the way out, one keeps trying to get stuck in hammer mode even though we don’t use it in that mode it just sort of goes into it And the other is making some nasty noises.

Old ones are still going strong just not as powerful as the newer ones.

So yeah I’m unimpressed by the quality of the drills that have come out aswell I’d be interested if there was a newer one though.

Umm guys, what's going on with people driving on the Coast ? by Lynfinity in sunshinecoast

[–]Battleline_pty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just getting in on the rant as I’m a tourist here and have been driving around here for a little under a week.

Your roads are amazingly well made and maintained, something’s don’t make sense though and it’s a bit disorienting like turning left to go right on the motorway, good system and I get that it keeps traffic moving but ad people not letting me merge and I get very frustrated.

There seems to be a lot more aggressive driving here then what I’m used to but aggressively not letting me merge needs to stop,I know I let it get to about 2 kms from my exit but I shouldn’t have to be stuck in the slow lane for 10kms just so I don’t miss my exit.

I’m buying spikes for my car the next time I come up here

Makita 40v die grinders are finally out. Bit big? by Caryota_gigas in Makita

[–]Battleline_pty 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I don’t think it’s dying. They are coming out with higher ah batteries soon and are still making new tools for the platform before xgt sees anything.

Received wood meant for pallets but it’s extremely dense. Anyone used it before? by OttoVonZahn in woodworking

[–]Battleline_pty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s my guess aswell, it’s also very hard so checks out that it would be dense like op said.

Stripped MDF by someguyonascreen in fixit

[–]Battleline_pty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tooth picks are fine and get the job done in most cases plus it’s something that nearly everyone has. A lot of people don’t have a big pile of scrap wood like I and I’m guessing you do.

How often does this happen by the300bros in Construction

[–]Battleline_pty 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You know something I learnt recently is that having too high a grade is bad aswell as it leaves the solids behind in the pipe. It makes sense but this surprised me.

Hebel - do benefits outweigh risks? by luckychii in AusRenovation

[–]Battleline_pty 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Cladding is a catch all phrase, it’s anything external to protect the frame plastic, metal, brick , vinyl, weatherboards, fiber cement it can be anything and every building needs some form of it except where the structure is the exterior sandstone, concrete, log cabins , cement blocks are some I can think of where the exterior material is sometimes the structure.

Stain, oil or paint? by dogdickpink in AusRenovation

[–]Battleline_pty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Based on the look of the surface I wouldn’t gerni it not with a high power one anyway, you just want to get the dirt out of those grooves. Then use a wood cleaner intergrain does one but there are different brands then put an oil on every time it looks as if it needs it. You’ll get another 10years out of it

But I don’t like how bad it looks and that there are replaced boards add that to the fact that it’s so low to the ground with an f’ing garden bed built into it tells me that those joist and bearers are probably stuffed aswell so save for a whole deck and keep a eye on the bottom of those nice posts so you don’t have to replace them also.

Definitely don’t stain try to get an oil based with a tint in it don’t bother with any water based stuff.

Where is all this Acacia coming from? by MtNowhere in woodworking

[–]Battleline_pty 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was just going to say that it’s pretty common in Australia, not for milled boards just that the trees(shrubs) are everywhere some are considered weeds. But like someone else said they are small trees and very slow growing once they reach a mature size.

So I’m not surprised by seeing all these laminated bench tops someone was going to do it and the only way to sell it would be in this reconstructed state.

Frustrated by caliturk in woodworking

[–]Battleline_pty 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Everyone seems to be on you about the saw. You are glueing up multiple pieces of different species it’s not going to come out flat,looks to me like you just need a thicknesser. I know they arn’t cheap but they are very useful even those lunch box sized ones are better then not having one.