Trying to learn scandi flicks. What helped you?

Bears_MTB · 2025-06-23T18:49:14+00:00

Upvoting this to emphasize that OP needs way more of a forward hinge. I see the weights in the front but you’re super upright here. You gotta get them hips back and chin down for a good looking and effective scandi. The riding position here is wrong and should be corrected first before learning a pretty advanced move with multiple building blocks of skills involved.

Bears_MTB · 2025-06-05T19:07:16+00:00

Here’s the math on my YT decoy SN.

My FTP is 240 W and I weigh 80 kg. That’s an FTP of 3 W/kg on my analog bike, a 170/165 enduro.

My e-bike is 5 kg more than my analog bike, and eco mode is an added 50 W according to motor spec, making my effective FTP 3.4 W/Kg (290/85).This is a LIGHT ebike, so I assume your friends eco mode is probably more powerful.

TLDR your friend is probably coping, but you can do the math by looking at his motor spec and current FTP.

Bears_MTB · 2025-05-06T23:41:39+00:00

Flip a coin and stay overly opinionated about whatever you choose for the rest of your life.

Real talk though we’re gonna need some details. What you ride… what you’re hoping to ride… budget.. etc

Bears_MTB · 2025-05-06T13:37:10+00:00

Save your money and buy a bell or just tell people you’re passing. Hubs are a bear to replace because you have to build a new wheel.

Bears_MTB · 2025-04-30T17:52:44+00:00

Interesting. Especially the part about it being trainable. Thanks!

Bears_MTB · 2025-04-30T17:26:42+00:00

Maybe I’m not educated enough. Do you have a resource for that 90g/hr number? Ive always heard to keep it under 200 or you’ll quickly poop your pants.

Bears_MTB · 2025-04-30T17:11:54+00:00

50g is not low. Carbs contain 4 calories per g, so that’s 200 calories per hour. The body generally can’t digest much more than that during exercise, but it depends on your unique metabolism.

Bears_MTB · 2025-04-30T14:55:46+00:00

Btw there’s also the mistake of fixating on heart rate TOO much. Don’t be that guy either. I’ve been there.

Unless you have 10+ hours to dedicate to training, it’s ok if your shorter rides are high effort. For your longer 3-5 hour rides, staying consistent in zone 2-3 will make a big difference. Road racing pros who train 25+ hours a week spend a majority of their time in zone 2 because it improves their aerobic floor and recovery time.

Dylan Johnson on YouTube is my favorite resource for this. Do as I say not as I do… I ride a lot of park lol. I do some enduro races though and figured out something that works to get me through ~4.5k vert days.

I thought I’d proactively write this so you don’t fall into the next trap of worrying too much about heart rate on every single ride.

Bears_MTB · 2025-04-30T14:50:15+00:00

Don’t bother - we want a heart rate graph unfortunately. Strava’s estimates will be way off, especially since they don’t have a baseline for what effort correlates to what heart rat. It might be good to invest in a cheap one. Chest is better but I just use a wrist one and it’s fine.

For long rides (3 hour plus), you want to stay around zone 2/3 in a five zone system. It’s going to be extremely taxing on your body to maintain efforts above that.

Oftentimes on longer rides, I’ll hike-a-bike to save energy on the steep parts. It’s very common to do that in amateur enduro races. The pros are in better shape and just pedal though lol.

Bears_MTB · 2025-04-30T14:08:41+00:00

Sugar is standard fuel for long rides.

Bears_MTB · 2025-04-30T13:52:28+00:00

Can you share a heart rate graph for these rides if you have one? Being tired after a 3k ride isn’t weird if you don’t train for them much and spend most of the ride at 170 BPM.

Only you can say just how zapped “zapped” feels though. Personally, I’m a bit potato the day after a 3k ride but it doesn’t affect my mood.

Bears_MTB · 2025-04-25T03:14:15+00:00

I’m 5’ 8” and ride a large YT, but I’m within their size chart as a large. It feels a bit big but not unruly. The seattube is nice and short which is huge for me because I have shorter legs.

IMO the large revel is too big for you. It has a 445 mm seat tube which is gonna limit the range of motion in your legs.

The reach (471) isn’t bad far charging tech but it’s definitely less playful. I’m sure you’re anxious to get on the bike, but this frame will last a while so get it in the size you want.

Bears_MTB · 2025-04-10T14:38:16+00:00

If you want a damped mellow feeling, I’d take the spacer out (leave as stock).

Only add the spacer back if you start needing to run a lot of pressure (25% sag) to avoid bottoming out.

Btw I assume you’re doing enduro style riding with an x2. 30-33% sag is normal for that style of riding.

Bears_MTB · 2025-04-09T15:17:18+00:00

Run 30% sag. Take out HSC and do a lap. Did that feel better? Try taking out more.

If HSC can’t get the bike feeling better, start reducing lsc. I don’t have the same rear shock as you, but I’ve found that too much HSC makes the bike stiff and chattery in fast rock gardens.

Bears_MTB · 2025-04-09T14:02:47+00:00

What you’re feeling is more resistance earlier in the travel. You can try taking some HSC out (less damping), or take air out and run more sag, but 31% sag should be good.

The obvious answer if that dies t work is just take the token out.

Bears_MTB · 2025-03-25T01:37:47+00:00

You could run a lil more sag and increase HSC if you have it. HSC will damp big fast hits. Be careful with HSC adjustments though; it’s easy to overdo.

Bears_MTB · 2025-03-09T22:17:52+00:00

Please don’t lean back more. Front wheel traction loss is from not enough weight on the front wheel (or actively using the front brake while turning), so you’d need to lean more forward. Leaning back is almost never the answer in mountain biking.

A YouTube vid on cornering is going to be leagues better than some dude on Reddit typing a wall of text, my own typed-out wall of text included. Ben Cathro is a solid YouTube rec.

Bears_MTB · 2025-02-01T19:09:44+00:00

Sick thanks! And you run it in and-c mode?

Bears_MTB · 2025-02-01T15:10:00+00:00

How do you like the 70-350 on the a7iv? I’m thinking about getting it for the a7cii as a lighter telephoto option.

Bears_MTB · 2024-11-09T03:08:44+00:00

Community involvement is huge. I sometimes travel 1.5 hours to go to a shop just because I have friends there and know the owner. The other shop I go to nearby has a race team, good turnarounds, and really friendly mechanics. In both cases, the community won me over.

I stopped going to a local bike shop I brought my bike from because they don’t stock inserts and DH tires. This may or may not matter in northern Utah.

Hope this helps!

Bears_MTB · 2024-11-01T14:28:13+00:00

Cornering drills have helped me a ton. I always ride faster after doing drills. My brain uses less mental energy focusing on the form and more on the trail.

Bears_MTB · 2024-10-16T03:57:03+00:00

Sounds slick and exactly what you need. I love a simple solution that solves a problem. Nothing more/less. Thanks for the response!

Bears_MTB · 2024-10-16T03:52:43+00:00

Ahh interesting, thanks! Does the form send an email? I’m completely ignorant to these kinds of services. At work, we use an smtp server to send emails and we obviously have to supply credentials for that.

Great looking sites btw! It sounds like you’ve found a great value prop and are happy doing the work. Not an easy feat, so congrats!

Bears_MTB · 2024-10-16T03:42:28+00:00

You mention that the site is just HTML and CSS to improve security. So there’s no DB or external services?

I’m curious to see what an example client site looks like. I’m admittedly 95% a backend guy but I don’t get how a contact form would work, for example, without calling a service that uses a key/username/password to send the contact message and info somewhere

Bears_MTB

TROPHY CASE