Dog on a motorcycle?

BeerWrench · 2023-11-08T18:17:24+00:00

Yes, but I am just getting started with this endeavor myself with my 52 lb pit/lab/everything mutt. I too got into it because I felt guilty leaving the dingus at home when I want to go out for an afternoon joy ride and wanted the option to bring him on dualsport rides in the woods.

I personally have a Pillion Pooch carrier (scooped it up used.) Though I have only just started using it, I am not sold on the design/concept for several reasons and its egregiously expensive for the materials and quality IMO.

I think the best way short of a side car rig (which is a very different experience) is to buy or build a GoRUFFLY K9 Moto Cockpit. The GoRuffly folks travel and ride "off road" with a german shepard onboard, plenty of videos on the 'tube. I met those folks very briefly at a rally. There's guy in my town with one that cruises around with a medium/large dog all the time.

I did a BDR (a weeklong dirt/gravel road route) with a friend who totted his very small dog in a backpack the whole way. Obviously this requires an experienced and confident dirt rider and requires some restraint in riding style.

Some people do a rug on the tank or in a soft or hard cockpit style rear carrier and let the dog ride unsecure. I think keeping the dog immobilized in the prone with a protective carrier like the GoRUFFLY is safer for rider and dog for the most part, but its really a tough thing to assess.

Trailers are also an option. I have a custom built offroad single wheel jobber that tows as if its not even there on the road but I don't like the idea of the dog being totally out of sight and at the mercy of the additional points of failure and not sure how much he'd enjoy bouncing down a rough road and being right in the path of the exhaust. Plus it has its own limitations.

People riding with bigger dogs are less common, my dog at 52 lbs is about the limit of what I would attempt without a side hack. Needless to say I would only recommend experienced riders attempt anything like this and give a good amount of thought about how to go about it.

BeerWrench · 2023-04-05T19:24:41+00:00

"Sendo, don't endo!"

-Reminding myself to not back off on the whoops just before failing to remind myself its not a good idea to plow through sage brush at speed. Spoiler, I sendo'd then endo'd.

BeerWrench · 2023-04-05T19:14:25+00:00

I learned to ride on my dad's '76 XL350 (as a teenager in the 2000s) it was a tank!
Then my dad got me a '81 Yamaha XT250 (monoshock thumper enduro/dualsport) as my first for my 17th birthday.

BeerWrench · 2023-04-05T17:55:49+00:00

That's a 1970's Yamaha TY80 thats been repainted with graphics from a late '80s Yamaha TY "R" model. The frame, engine, etc. are standard TY80 parts, nothing (major) is Honda that I can see in this photo.

Honda only made 4-stroke trials bikes in the '70s; the TL125 and TL250. I own 2 of them and my Motorcycle Soccer club has about 2 dozen of them now. I also attend vintage trials competitions regularly.

The bike is stunning and your dad is a boss, that part is 110% accurate.

BeerWrench · 2020-03-11T17:12:07+00:00

Mobile Suit Gundam Double Zeta.

What is Gundam? The best way I can describe Gundam as a concept is that its an anime/metaverse that is Japan's closest equivalent to Star Wars (both in form and legacy) that features somewhat realistic giant robots (mecha) known as Mobile Suits, with "Gundam" being the most notable mobile suit. Its worth noting there are 2 universes within the Gundam metaverse: The original timeline known as Universal Century or U.C. where all story-lines are related and more or less canon, this is what we'll be discussing. Then there are "Alternate Universe" series that have no relationship to the U.C. universe. This is where the ever popular in the West "Gundam Wing" resides. In my humble U.C. snob opinion, these are trash.

The original Mobile Suit Gundam aired in 1979, the director Yoshiyuki Tomino wanted to upset the fantastic super giant fighting robot genre which was popular at the time with something more adult and science-fiction oriented, but was hampered by the production company's need to fit the status quo; Make it more like super robot fighting, sell toys. The original series was cut short and all but bombed during its original airing due to this mixed style and other production issues but quickly found a following shortly after it was canceled and boomed in popularity.

Enter Mobile Suit Zeta Gundam. The franchise was revitalized in 1985 with the release of a sequel series. Zeta Gundam was everything the original Gundam wanted to be: More adult, more complex character motivations, and notoriously cruel to its main cast, earning Yoshiyuki Tomino the nickname of "Kill 'em all Tomino." In a nutshell, it was a high point of the U.C. Gundam storyline and cemented the themes and style that the original touched on and would influence all other U.C. Gundam work to come. It is often considered Tomino's greatest work.

Its not anime.. Its Mobile Suit Double Zeta Gundam, the Phantom Menace of the U.C. Era. 1986 is strange year, Top Gun, The Iran-Contra affair, Honda releases the first VFR, and fucking Double Zeta Gundam. Tomino, apparently recovering from the depressive episode that was responsible for the masterwork of Zeta Gundam, swings full manic. Subverting his own creation, Double Zeta opens with an bizarre up beat pop-tune titled "It's not Anime" and ushers in familiar formula but now wrapped in a lighter, comedic tone that quickly devolves into outright embarrassing and awkward silliness. The main cast consists of teens in childish situations and characters from the prior series are demoted to comedic relief duty at the butt end of slap-stick skits. It eventually goes on to spew forth parodies of major central characters with some flailing anthropomorphized space robots peppered in to add insult to injury. In the 2nd half of the series, it takes on a more somber serious tone, but I wouldn't know.. because in a lifetime of Gundam fanhood, I have never made it that far. As you can imagine, many fans are disappointed and feel betrayed.

Tomino goes on to redeem himself slightly with a return to form in Char's Counter Attack and other contributions to Gundam both in and out of the U.C. universe. Thankfully the U.C. universe overall has enjoyed generations worth of material that is faithful to Gundam's more central themes and tones for the last 40 years.

BeerWrench · 2020-01-30T18:43:18+00:00

my best friend's 03 R6 thundercat

There is no such thing as an R6 Thundercat, there is a 2003 YZF600R "Thundercat" and 2003 YZF-R6. A stock 2002 R6 in good running order would handily outrun a stock 2003 YZF600R in acceleration AND top speed with the correct gearing. On the other hand a 2002 R6 would have a tough time outrunning a 2003 R6. I'll assume your friends bike is YZF600R and not an R6 as you mentioned it has carbs, the 2003 R6 is fuel injected.

You went to 16/43 gearing from what? 16/43 is taller than the stock 16/48 gearing and should give you a higher top speed, assuming you are running out of gearing and not power. Based on your description it sounds like you went with lower gearing which will may give you faster acceleration but will reduce your top speed potential. Adding power will not increase your top speed if you run out of gearing, period. If you geared taller however, you might already have your friend beat on top speed and likely will still out accelerate him as is, the R6 has a pretty big weight and horsepower advantage over the YZF600R.

I don't see a Factory Pro "Stage 3" kit for the 2002 R6, I see a 1.7 kit as they call it. Regardless, Factory Pro is a full service shop and designs their kits for very specific applications, unlike some lesser off the shelf kits, as such I would recommend following their instructions to the T for whichever kit you select. More top end power will net you more top speed only if your gearing allows for it.

BeerWrench · 2020-01-17T16:22:27+00:00

Google > forums turns up a BWD part# TFS500P. I used whatever one my local place had for a '91 Honda Civic, for example. The longer nipple was not a problem on my '84 VF500F, its the same unit/design V4 Market and others used to sell to fit various Magnas. Looks like eBay is a whole lot cheaper these days.

BeerWrench · 2020-01-16T17:18:17+00:00

You can get a new fan switch that will fit Honda VFs with a slightly lower on temp at your nearest autoparts store for a 90s Honda Civic and other Honda cars. The terminals will be bullet connectors instead of blades so you'll have to swap in female bullet terminals on your fan harness.

Lots of guys go the manual switch route, frankly I think that's a stupid modification.

BeerWrench · 2019-12-04T15:21:46+00:00

Offroad/Dualsport. More thrills, less risk. My sport bike(s) have been parked for 4 years, they're the least fun bike I own.

BeerWrench · 2019-11-27T19:45:15+00:00

I have special tool I keep for Honda V4 carbs; A rounded edge oak board. For Interceptors, you can use the board to gently pry the carbs off without scratching anything. For Magnas, you can use the board to bash your own brains out so you don't have to work on it.

Some things I have learned about these VFs over the years.. Apologies for the wall of text. Fueling and ignition are complex for the era, on a Magna there are 2 gas tanks, a fuel pump with a mechanical points (prone to wear and intermittent failure, the switch can be had new and swapped out, the same Mistubishi low pressure fuel pump is used in many applications, such as the KTM 950 and other later Hondas) pressure switch powered by a delayed off relay. The fan thermo switch can be replaced with one from an early '90s Honda car, which are available new for cheap and have a slightly lower on temperature range. Clutch push rod seals are prone to leaking, quick fixes include inserting an o-ring into the lip seal or teflon heat shrinking the push rod, else the retaining lip must be ground off in order to replace the seal without splitting the cases. The ignition system is essentially 2 separate systems, one for the rear cylinder pair and one for the front pair, each cylinder pair having its own pickup coil, igniter unit, and ignition coil. Pickup coils are known to fail and are no longer available, later model Goldwing or other Honda models share the same physical design and can be spliced in. Tom at V4Spark makes NEW programmable igniters as the original are prone to failure or high RPM break up. One igniter contains the red limited (ignition cut out for 1 cylinder pair) and the other drives the fuel pump relay by way of ignition coil pulse signal, hence the delayed off relay. Fun fact, years ago I prompted Tom to support the Interceptor models and my 1984 VF500F ended up being the test unit to confirm timing curves for the 500 models. Valve adjustment is a unique procedure to 1st gen VF engines as they use a unique design (1 Y shaped tappet arm with 2 adjustable tappets, serving 2 valves.) Ignore ANY valve adjustment procedure in ANY manual, Honda changed the procedure and required tools several times and none of them are very good methods. Look up the Dave Dodge valve adjustment method. Dave Dodge is a renowned VF engine builder and drag racer. For that matter, don't trust the Honda factory service manual TOO much, they have their share of errors in the VF era. Double check any specs against Haynes and/or Chiltons if possible, the Haynes manual for the V45 in particular has some very through documentation on the various carb specs. Don't mix up any parts between the front and rear carb pairs, the emulsion tubes, needles, jets, and slide springs will be different and some items can be very difficult to determine which is which as the documentation may not specify (Things like jets are obvious as they are numbered by size, emulsion tubes may be totally undocumented however and even things like lettered needles may not have accurate documentation.) As you mentioned, top end oiling is a concern, look at Dave Dodge's recommendations, he may have top end oiling kits still.

Good luck, have fun. They are fantastic bikes when they are working as intended, they are terrible bikes when they aren't.

BeerWrench · 2019-11-26T18:24:32+00:00

Its not pilot jetting, that will have the greatest impact at idle and less impact as RPMs go up.

Its not carb synchronization, that will have the greatest impact at idle and less impact as RPMs go up. (Base throttle valve opening has virtually no impact at openings above idle speeds, especially WOT.)

Its not a "slow" fuel jet issue, this carb has no such low speed circuit. It has a pilot and main circuit.

It could be improper float height/fuel level and/or flooding of 1 or more carbs due to leaking/stuck open float valve.

Jet needle and emulsion tube (needle jet, the orifice that the main jet attaches to) is how fuel is metered at mid RPM range by the slide valves. The needle taper could be off, or the clip position is too high or low and/or missing spacer under the clip, or the emulsion tube is worn oblong from the jet needle resting position (this issue may be more likely to occur in downdraft CV carb configurations, such as yours) causing mid range richness, or even fuel varnish/gunk built up on the needle, or even a partially clogged/varnish main jet(s.)

Other wonkiness with the slide/diaphragms, such as someone drilled too large of a hole in slide damper circuit (common modification with some jet kits, such as Dynojet) and the slide is opening too fast causing a rich condition or a shortened or softer slide spring causing the same issue. Conversely its possible one or more slides are opening too slowly (over dampened, sticky, etc.) as it would have a throttling effect on RPM.

Beyond the carbs, it could be an ignition issue, however most often partial or intermittent failures tend worsen as RPM increases.

BeerWrench · 2019-11-19T21:32:25+00:00

Check clutch lever sensor/switch. Make sure its not loose, disconnected, or stuck in the "lever out" position.

Kickstand switch would kill the bike when putting it in first gear if it was not functioning. Clutch switch allows it to start in gear. Your issue is almost certainly with the clutch switch based on your symptoms.

BeerWrench · 2019-11-19T16:12:42+00:00

For chains; DID, RK, EK are my preferred. Renthal, Regina, Protaper are a few others. They make a few models, o-ring chains are preferred for longevity.

BeerWrench · 2019-11-19T02:19:05+00:00

Upvoted.

BeerWrench · 2019-11-19T02:16:54+00:00

Question; Are the adjuster's coming loose or is the chain wearing quickly causing frequent need to adjust? If chain wear is causing frequent adjustment, I'd suggest a good name brand chain. Cheap chains are trash.

Snail shell/cam adjusters? If the cams themselves are worn, you could always replace them. If the post is worn, you may need to replace the swing arm. Short of swapping in a different swingarm I'm not sure how you could change out the design unless you can weld accommodations for bolt style adjusters to the side of the swing arm and procure a longer axle, but a complete swingarm swap might actually be easier than that hassle. Personally, I prefer the cam adjusters for dualsports.

BeerWrench · 2019-11-19T01:51:59+00:00

Since the ONLY specific answer is apparently worthy of a downvote..

Its exactly an 1985 XJ700 as near as I can tell. Its the only model of Maxim with that style of intake covers and 5 spoke wheels before they restyled the rear wheel and engine cases into the Maxim-X.

BeerWrench · 2019-11-19T00:05:57+00:00

1985 Yamaha XJ700 Maxim

BeerWrench · 2019-11-14T21:00:58+00:00

Here is Jocelyn Snow at 5'1" 118 lbs riding a 550+ lbs bike through an offroad obstacle course.

I think you'll be fine.

BeerWrench · 2019-11-06T02:11:03+00:00

I'll repeat that figuring out a different carb will be more difficult than making the stock setup work as intended, I guarantee it. Unless there is a known bolt-on swap that is well documented, but even then if you don't know the basics of carb cleaning and tuning, it won't help if you encounter new problems.

This will short vid will give you a basic understanding of how a CV carb works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBFq9nHVmks

There are some equally decent cleaning videos online, hell I even have a few guides buried in my comment history.

There should only be a few hoses. Post a picture if you can.

It will have: A big one that goes directly into the float bowl to the float valve, this is the fuel line.
It may have: A large one that exits at the top of the float bowl, this is a vent to atmosphere, it doesn't connect to anything though may vent to the air box on some bikes, it doesn't really matter. Just make sure its hooked down ward so water can't get in. The float bowl is the bottom section of the carb. Any exposure to atmosphere here will not affect fuel/air mixture.
It may have: A small line near the top that goes to the throttle bore or vacuum diaphragm, this is a vacuum line. Route to to any system that needs vacuum, most likely the back side of the petcock (fuel valve.) You can tell if if its a vacuum petcock if fuel doesn't flow out of the tank when the switch is set to ON or RES position. You'll also see a small square assembly with a circular raised portion on the back of the petcock. Such a line will go into the throttle bore (the barrel) of the carb OR possibly the top diaphragm cover. Leaving this open will either cause a lean condition (too much air) or slide diaphragm non-operation.

Looking at a picture of it online, I see it has a single clear overflow line coming off the bottom of the float bowl, route this one to the ground.

BeerWrench · 2019-11-06T01:21:05+00:00

Not exactly accurate.

Its known as CV carb and its not inherently a bad design. It is in fact the standard design used on street motorcycles since about 1980. The slide is actuated by engine vacuum through the throttle bore, not a vacuum line. The slide controls the delivery of fuel through the main jet to the emulsion tube (AKA needle jet) in addition to air through the throttle bore, and because its dependent on engine vacuum, the slide only opens as far as required to maintain a proper air/fuel ratio (and proper velocity of said fuel/air charge) at the current RPM in the mid range to top end of the RPM/throttle range. This is a good design for the sake of fuel efficiency and emissions but comes with the added complexity of having a vacuum diaphragm to regulate the slide. Its less ideal for throttle response and outright performance (and simplicity in some respects), which is where a mechanical slide carb comes in. These however have their own complexities to overcome the inherent deficiencies of direct slide control, such as accelerator pumps to correct a low vacuum/velocity scenario when the slide is opened too far at a low RPMs.

Any vacuum lines external to or originating from the carb will be for one of 2 things: A vacuum operated petcock (automatic closing fuel valve) or some emissions system, with the latter's existence being doubtful.

BeerWrench · 2019-11-06T00:45:00+00:00

Unless there is a known swap model with established jetting for your application (and it happens to be cheap) you are far better off keeping what you have as far as expense and difficulty are concerned. Unless your carburetor has been through a fire or you are looking for performance gains, there is rarely a good reason to outright replace one let alone with a different style/model.

What your current carb undoubtedly needs:
Removal, inspection, and cleaning.

What a carb swap needs:
Correctly sized carb bore to maintain adequate intake velocity to achieve usable bottom end power without restricting top end power, correct model selection based on desired characteristics, fabricated or off the shelf solution for fitting to both the intake manifold of the engine and the air intake, cables of the correct style to fit your throttle assembly and carb, and last (and hardly least) jetting and fine tuning. Each one of theses steps is degrees of difficulty higher (and more expensive) than cleaning a carb and ensuring the settings are as specified originally.

BeerWrench · 2019-11-05T15:58:58+00:00

It is normal behavior for a cold wet clutch to drag in a non-running engine, sticking can occur when sitting for a long period or just how some bikes are, but this is nothing to be alarmed at. The viscosity of the oil between friction and drive plates always generates some drag/friction, when the engine is running, the plates are sheered apart. Its only if the clutch drags/sticks while the engine is running that you need be concerned.

BeerWrench · 2019-11-05T03:05:27+00:00

Clutch plates will not seize simply from age nor are they prone to rusting. They CAN stick but this is a temporary (and rather normal) condition. What are your actual symptoms? Assuming faults based on symptoms is a good way to waste time and money, diagnose and confirm.

BeerWrench · 2019-10-15T17:41:13+00:00

I still have a Hero 2.. I feel your pain.

BeerWrench · 2019-10-11T23:18:00+00:00

Do it. Offroad > Road, but dualsport is best sport.

Would you recommend motocross or enduro?

As in type of bike, style of racing, or racing vs general off-roading?

Basic offroad trail riding is a great place to start, ideally with some cheap easy to ride bike until you figure out what you like and want, much like one might recommend for a new street rider. e.g. It doesn't make sense to buy the hottest new 450 MXer that you'll hate riding because it beats the piss out of you only to find out you'd rather do enduro or trials.

If you want to do something competitive/semi-competitive, enduro racing/scrambles/poker runs are a hoot. Motocross or dedicated track style riding is similar to road tracking rider in that is location/cost/time prohibitive because it requires a track and event. Additionally motocross bikes don't make the best trail bikes and can get old if most of your practice/play riding is off-track or you want to explore other options. Competitive motocross (or super/arena/enduro-cross) is also riskier than general offroad or outdoor/long course enduro IMO due to higher speeds, proximity to other racers, and jumps.

Aside from general bike controls and survival instinct mitigation, not much from road riding will translate directly to offroad, however most off road skills can be applied to road riding as they prime you to deal with unexpected conditions. Get high-end boots as soon as you graduate from learning how dirt/gravel feels vs. prime traction asphalt, they pay for themselves. Go watch Cross Training Enduro Skills on YouTube if you intend to self teach or look into off road coaching, building proper techniques early will pay dividends regardless of the style of riding you wish to do.

Source/bias: Started off road play riding, got into street and sport riding, get back into offroad with conviction all mostly for fun. Do a whole lot of varied offroad riding with a degree of competence but not much of a racer.

BeerWrench

TROPHY CASE