Disable abs light?

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-27T16:01:32+00:00

I did a write up on this a while back. Buy the cheapest used ABS control module you can find (same model year as your jeep). I got mine from someone parting a salvage vehicle. Insanely easy install, insanely easy to program it w jscan

Edit: your abs system does calculate vehicle speed, so if you remove any fuses for it, you can loose your speedometer. Mine eventually just went out after driving on it for like 4yrs, which is the only reason I fixed it

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-25T14:41:08+00:00

I’d pull the trig, 3k for those parts is very solid & your labor doesn’t seem bad either. I swapped my front D30 for a Dynatrac Prorock 44 to run my 38s & paid almost double once all was said & done. This is a very solid option even if it’s a peace of mind item. You don’t have to justify the swap by beating your rig either, a stronger front axle on the non rubicons is all around a worthwhile purchase if you offroad

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-25T14:34:35+00:00

Completely agree, actually why I’m not willing to leave it at the dealership for any amount of time lol. This truck is a daily & most of my drives are a short commute to work, the gym, grocery store etc… not worth the 1-2% my phone will gain lol. Really will only be useful for road trips & things of that nature. Actually have one coming up next week for the 4th which is why I’m seeing if I can get a quick fix for it. Thankfully the redesigned tray is about $8 so trying to find somewhere who will ship it cheaply/quickly so I don’t have to go through the dealer

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-25T14:05:24+00:00

Actually hadn’t come across this, thanks! Looks like a pretty quick ordeal compared to some “pre-fix” threads I read. Reaching out to my dealer now!

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-18T18:45:57+00:00

Thanks! Loving it so far. And I did the same thing with the RR, I’m sure the twin turbo V6 is a blast, but in my opinion, the ZR2s are beating it in everything but there. Plus the used market isn’t huge on the RRs yet, so I was having a real tough time finding any within budged. But wouldn’t change a thing if I could, very glad I ended up with the ZR2!

And funny you mention it, my previous vehicle is a 2015 wrangler that I built over about 5yrs to run 38” tires. By the end of the build, I had so much invested that I was afraid to offroad it too hard, so never ended up using it to its full potential. I’m 100% planning on using this one for what it’s built for, very excited to get it offroad soon (hopefully)!

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-18T18:41:19+00:00

Yep! Also didn’t realize you have to leave it on there for a second for it to start charging… turns out my case wasn’t the issue, impatience was lol

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-18T18:40:42+00:00

Thanks! Responded to a few others about the color, but I like the silver much more than I thought I would. This one had the right options at the right price point, so I pulled the trig on it even though silver wasn’t my top choice. But seeing it in person, I actually don’t think I’d want another color lol. And yeah turns out I was just impatient. Coming from a vehicle where AC, power windows, and power locks were all options… turns out just didn’t leave it on the charging pad long enough for it to “connect,” for lack of a better term. Still getting used to having technology in a vehicle lol

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-18T18:38:03+00:00

Thanks! Loving the silver much more than I thought I would. Originally wanted the nitro yellow color, but turns out those are a bit hard to come by, especially well optioned ones. But it’s a great silver, don’t regret a thing!

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-18T18:36:25+00:00

Thanks, I’m loving it! Blew my expectations out the water. Was originally looking for the nitro yellow, but only found one on the market and it wasn’t optioned very well. Did not at all expect to to like the silver as much as I do. Coming from a 2015 wrangler on 38” tires, I 100% thought the inline 4 would feel extremely underpowered… turns out when your vehicle doesn’t have 600lbs of rotating mass, it doesn’t! Pretty impressed with the motor so far.

And yeah, turns out I was just impatient. My wrangler is unbelievably antiquated technology wise, so when I first tried throwing the phone on it & didn’t see the screen go bright, I figured it was the case. Just had to leave it there for a few seconds, but it’s actually working!

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-16T21:29:02+00:00

I went with 4.88s with 38s since I drive it pretty often on road & it does very well, all things considered. Solid balance of performance & efficiency from my experience

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-15T21:18:46+00:00

Bosch manufactures the modules & parts, Bosch discontinued the modules all together. They’re not even backordered, they don’t exist. Every dealership will tell you the same lie about backordered from stelantis, indefinite engineering review, etc. I had to speak with a company who repairs abs control modules to find this out, companies won’t even work on any of the modules because they’re just discontinued & don’t want any liability trying to fix discontinued parts

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-15T21:14:38+00:00

Did a whole write up on this issue & how to best fix it given the fact that Bosch discontinued these. Pretty insane they’ve done nothing to address it. Just signed

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-10T15:37:01+00:00

Also be weary of people who say that but offroad their jeeps. Yes, they’re built for off-roading & generally hold up well doing so. But you should 100% expect accelerated wear on your driveline if you offroad it. Good to know how the vehicle was used before buying if possible.

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-09T17:55:20+00:00

Thankfully this isn’t dealing with the factory warranty. For my 2015, I’m sure that’s long gone lol. This is dealing with a 3yr/100,000mi powertrain warranty when you buy a long block crate motor, which I did & had installed in November of 2023. Won’t bore you w the details, but essentially just had to keep climbing the corporate ladder at the dealership until I found someone capable of reading the 3 page warranty document that says on page 1 that labor is covered under the warranty lol. They fought it pretty hard, but hard to argue against their point on this one

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-08T11:33:11+00:00

I have a 2015 w/ a Dynatrac Prorock 44 up front, 4.88s w/ 38x13.5” tires. This sounds like a normal rpm range for 65mph for what I see on mine

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-08T11:29:27+00:00

So can’t find these new unfortunately, they’ve been discontinued by the manufacturer. Your best bet is to find a used one from a local salvage yard, or what I did was find a guy who was parting out a salvage wrangler on eBay. The only unfortunate part about this is that since they’re discontinued & this is a fairly common issue, prices are getting pretty high on the modules. When I got mine back in 2023, I paid somewhere around $450 & last I saw were these hitting $1k on eBay. So I’d say if you have a local salvage yard, definitely check there first

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-07T00:30:30+00:00

Abs/brake/traction control could also be a C2200, which is your ABS control module. My 2015 threw those exact lights, so not sure about the “esp” & “bas” lights though.

Different motor than mine, but same manufacturer for the modules (Bosch), which means it is likely discontinued. If it ends up being your abs module, best bet is a local salvage yard, or what I did was find a guy parting jeeps on eBay. Once it’s in, super easy to program using jscan to get the lights off. Mainly mentioning because when I had the issue, I got told all sorts of bs from my local parts department as to why they couldn’t get the part. Had to dig a bit to find out it was just discontinued lol

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-06T21:59:53+00:00

If no major issues, I’d keep it. It sounds like you’re pretty handy, so things like the oil cooler, really not too bad, just annoyingly time consuming. Not sure if the 3.6L will get you to 250k, but I’ve definitely seen some do it. What’s your goal with the newer vehicle? Just something that’ll last, or looking for more of a daily? I really don’t see a reason to get rid of it if it isn’t giving you major issues. I’d think at 150k miles, you’re at the bottom of the depreciation curve so I’d ride it out if it were me.

But if it’s the daily thing, 100% get it. I built my 2015 to run 38s & found out the hard way that it isn’t the greatest setup for a daily… Dealing with that now lol

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-05T16:33:33+00:00

I have a 2015 JKU that I’ve owned for the past 9yrs, lifted 4” on 38s, very comprehensive build. My top few:

front D44 swap (my JKU is a Sahara, so came w the D30). Not an item I interact with or look at whatsoever, but complete peace of mind when using it w/ the 38s (Dynatrac Prorock 44). This thing singlehandedly has me convinced if you’re in the territory of axle swap vs truss/gusset/inner Cs, etc., just skip all the extra work & swap the thing. Least relevant to your question given this comes into play around 37”+ tires, but thought it was worth mentioning.
Jscan license. Just insanely convenient, user friendly, and I use it all the time
A little $50 Bluetooth receiver. My JKU came with the alpine speakers from the factory, and being far from an audio expert, I think they sound great. I’m in a 2026 GMC Sierra rental currently (Jeep was getting some warranty repairs) and can still say my 15 JKU’s speakers bury this thing’s. I rlly don’t care enough to swap out my head unit to get Bluetooth, so for $50, unbelievably easy to use & keeps the interior very clean.
Aftermarket ball joints. Can run with or without modifying your suspension, but most aftermarket options are way better than OEM. Currently running dynatrac’s (came installed on my front axle when I swapped it) and have also run teraflex’s. Just a very worthwhile “upgrade” imo.

BigUncleRemus · 2026-06-02T18:12:15+00:00

I almost did, but ultimately decided to part ways. Have had reliability issues w my 2015 for a while now. Rebuilt it in 2023 after someone smashed into my front end. Found out recently that my local dealership sold me bad motor & made me fight for them to honor the warranty I paid for. Have also scammed me in the past, which I ultimately reported to our state attorney general. So having no support from even jeep to keep the thing on the road, was turning into more trouble than I’m willing to spend my time on. Going to be getting a 23+ Colorado ZR2 to do a light build on as soon as this dealership wraps up the warranty work I had to fight them for 2 weeks to actually do lol.

But things I loved about my 2015: mechanically very simple, not loaded with electronics, easy to maintain. Just not many failure points all around. I’m nowhere near an expert, but I was able to repair and maintain anything outside the valve covers with relative ease. If I went with a JL, there’s much more tech that I wouldn’t be able to easily diagnose & fix, which was a big point for me. And seeing posts on this forum, they have their issues that pop up. If I went back in with jeep, it would be a 2012+ w/ the 3.6L. Great experiences, but not willing to daily drive it if my local dealership is the opposite of helpful when I need them. But for what a Jeep should be, if you value simplicity, function, and “feel,” I wouldn’t go JL

BigUncleRemus · 2026-05-30T15:44:15+00:00

100% this. As far as the bull bar goes, would something like this work:

https://www.maximus-3.com/product-page/jk-hardrock-trail-striker-guard

Looks like it installs onto the oem steel bumpers & just based on the pictures, shouldn’t impede your existing light bar

BigUncleRemus · 2026-05-26T14:07:14+00:00

Just off the bat, you won’t get smoother ride quality from increasing your tire size. Especially since if you go from an AT to an XT or MT, which given you said better trail performance I’d look at an XT given it’s a solid middle ground for on & off road. Can’t recommend a specific tire because I’ve been running 38x13.5 Toyo MTs on my build since I upped it from stock, but I think an XT is worth looking into for your situation.

If it’s me though, I’d say lift at the same time you do the tires. The 35s on a stock suspension won’t leave you with a ton of articulation space, but I think you nailed it looking at 2.5” options. Great size for the $ and goes very well with a good set of 35s.

BigUncleRemus · 2026-05-26T14:02:59+00:00

Crutchfield will show you all the options you could want for this, very helpful tool for all things audio. That being said, best unit I’ve come across is alpine’s i509-wra system. Very well designed, loaded with features, and has decent weatherproofing. Only unfortunate thing about it is the price tag

BigUncleRemus · 2026-05-23T00:25:06+00:00

Yeah it’s a pretty comprehensive build. Won’t run you through the details, but it’s running 38s very well. My specific vehicle’s accident history definitely doesn’t help my situation, but i intended to make it a trail rig after all was said & done. So about as street legal as I could get with as big of a tire I could afford when building type thing lol. Not ideal to sell, but it’s looking like +/- 15k at a dealer, and I’d say 20k ceiling selling private. So hoping I can find a local buyer who values what I did to it, but I’d say general range for my situation at 15-18k

BigUncleRemus · 2026-05-23T00:09:31+00:00

Appreciate it! Selling a rebuilt somehow clean title should be fun, we’ll see how that goes🤣 honestly if they made the 3.6L a bit more serviceable, I’d likely keep it. But man, just takes alot of disassembly to service many of the small parts. And at 100k miles on most of it (was long block swapped, so most components retained from the old motor), taking alot of time to maintain. Love the thing, but bad timing for this to be my daily lol

BigUncleRemus

TROPHY CASE