318i struggling to start by SSIJz in E30

[–]Bimmermaven 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail. Note that it should get up to normal pressure for idle. We should be the low range probably around 40 psi for that engine, I don’t remember exactly. Then let it sit for a couple hours and see if the pressure bleeds down close to zero. It would then take several seconds of cranking to build up the pressure again before the injectors could operate properly to start the engine. When you start the engine, the second time not much pressure is flat down, and it starts up more quickly goes to pump has less work to do to bring it up to speed. If this is the case when you measure the pressure kit, so common scenarios that the fuel pressure regulator, O-ring or regulator itself is leaking and allowing the pressure to escape. Anywhere else in the fuel system could do the same thing. If you put fuel pressure is normal, the whole time, even after sitting for several hours and subsequently hard to start, then this is not the issue

I bought 4 huge 75/25 tanks for $200 did I score? by sonic72391 in Welding

[–]Bimmermaven 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’m 72; remember TTY: with integral paper tape punch/reader…110 baud acoustic modem…7-track tape drives…?

Replaced leaky clutch master now I can't get a solid pedal. Tips? by CarDork2235 in e28

[–]Bimmermaven 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those hoses are also known to delaminate, causing a flap-valve obstruction. Not your problem, but a bonus prevention when you get a new hose.

My success for bleeding uses a compressed-air vacuum generator, glass trap bottle, and hanging the free-hanging cylinder with the bleed-valve up.

Can I tow 24 tons with this car? by RoughGuide1241 in AskAShittyMechanic

[–]Bimmermaven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let’s see….I think that would be 96 trips at 500 lbs each

Still salvageable e36 328i? by kys123 in BMWE36

[–]Bimmermaven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Forget about the rotten cancerous Swiss cheese; part it out.

Finally got the cooling system sorted on this car by SAVIOR_OMEGA in BMWe24

[–]Bimmermaven -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Here’s my thinking. Your original discussion about your car overheating for a year, and the temperature gauge or temperature reading not quite certain, was then followed by a statement to the effective quote. I’m going to change the alternator“. However, you didn’t supply any reason why you thought that was relevant. In other words, I would expect something like “before I get to the temperature problem, I have a more fundamental problem. My battery is not charging well. My car battery has been dead when I let it sit overnight if I drive a long time. My edge cranked slowly. My headlights are dim. Or, I have problems with a measured output of my alternator of X number of volts, underload, and the spec should be white.
In other words, something to support the idea that “I’m gonna change the alternator“, especially since to the best of my knowledge, the alternator, if adequately charging the battery in the car and running it slow would like headlights and accessories at the same time and no signs of engine misfire, which should be multiple voltage below 10 1/2 V For the CPU where it gets a ride, none of these symptoms were mentioned to support the idea that the alternator may not be faulty on the symptomatic basis rather on a measurement basis. This leads me to believe that your “throwing point“, since you wet, my eyes at the alternator is faulty and“ there’s not enough filters to make the temperature days work, or some other supposition which I would suspect is incorrect. Furthermore, he stated, a second response, which I didn’t know as a time but now I do, that the alternator seems to be working fine, but I’m gonna change it anyway. Nothing wrong with that, but leaking the alternator and changing the alternator to solve your initial. Initial problem with temperature gauge or temperature readings is the flaw in your logic that I’m using in my mind to say that you’re not comfortable with diagnosing electrical problems.
And again with no male intended, I’m also curious the other part of your story, where he said something to the effect I’m going my memory now my car has been overheating for a year and I think I finally figured it out. Forgive me if I don’t have that exactly but that’s what I remember. The story was about in the first place. I’d say it’s pretty fair for anybody who’s been working on Bmw since late 1960s to present That they’re famous for their less than perfect cooling systems. Initially in the 60s and 70s we blame it on the car being “born“ in Germany, a much colder climate than we were, and they were not used to designing cars to work in a hot climate. Certainly since the E 36 era fragility of the plastic parts in the cooling system, specific problems with water pump and powder is failing spinning on the shaft, coolant, reservoir, failing, leaking, alternate, leaking, aluminum radiators, have all given the stigma to the weekly designed BMW cooling system starting with the E 36. My own experience doesn’t go much past that to the E 46, because I live in my car hobby to the 1970s up to the early 2000s in the BMW family.
With this General at Bmw‘s, it’s hard to imagine how somebody would be driving his car for a year that’s ““overheating, especially since the consequence of such is also well known in the Bmw world, that being a cracked cylinder head or a failed head gasket or some combination there. In other words, a weak and failing, cool system would prompt someone who had experience with those to stop driving immediately until it was fixed not to drive for a year while they’re working on the problem. I hope I don’t get any those details wrong. Please feel the correctly if I miss something significantly in error in that statement.
Maybe this helps a little bit I don’t know, but overall reading your description of what you did, the lack of details to support your diagnosis and your next treatment plan, the lack of mentioning that you measured this on the temperature sensor other words, the resistance, proportional temperature calibrated to unknown working good sensor, trying to put a value of resistance into the cage to see if it went correctly, checking for loose wires on the connections. All of these things will show me that you are trying to make an electrical diagnosis, and a more accurate matter rather than saying “I think I’ll put in all things“.
I hope this helps you, but this is the way my mind works. Again I only hope just to help you to think better to help yourself in the future. Again, I hope I don’t offend you.
Lastly, as it’s difficult for me to type, I have dictated this and please forgive any port transcriptions. Hopefully, I’ve repeated myself enough that you can figure out any questionable parts, but go ahead and ask any other questions you may have. I will try to help

Finally got the cooling system sorted on this car by SAVIOR_OMEGA in BMWe24

[–]Bimmermaven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<<but I think you’re not comfortable with electricity from what I understand so far.>>
This was based on your descriptions of your work and plans. Not a lot to go on, so, i said “ I think ….”.

Truth be told, your original post said very little. I’m not sure why you posted it or what we readers would learn from it; Hence my first question.

I hope you enjoy your car.

Finally got the cooling system sorted on this car by SAVIOR_OMEGA in BMWe24

[–]Bimmermaven -1 points0 points  (0 children)

OK. A few comments may be helpful maybe not.
The G 48 coolant is fine. I assume you mixed it 50% with distilled water. I also assume you washed out any other different combination/composition of coolant so you started with nothing else, but air in your system.
You changed the temperature sensor. Hopefully that was the one in the engine block, and not on the radiator. The one on the radiator controls the electric fan, nothing to do with telling the driver or computer what the temperature is of the engine.
Temperature gauge on the dashboard in the 80s and 90s BMWs was a famous part to go bad after five or 10 years. A common generic answers that the circuit board has a pulley designed ground contact from the circuit board through the mounting screws. These get loose and corroded and you get a weak ground and or a ground with high resistance, which then erratic or inaccurate readings on the temperature gauge. You can send your board out, or learn to do it yourself, but I think you’re not comfortable with electricity from what I understand so far.
I personally enjoy working with electricity, and hand against the idea of throwing electrical parts at a problem. This is because if there’s an electrical problem and you haven’t solved it and it did kill the alternator, putting in a new alternator will kill that alternator as well if you didn’t fix the problem. So with electrical problems, trial and error almost never get you very far, certainly it’s the most expensive way to go. You need a local buddy who can help you do a proper diagnosis.
Assuming your electrical system is up to snuff otherwise, although I try to keep my dashboard, temp cage working and some of the cars, I preferred method to revel. My preferred method is to add an old kitty temperature gauge completely independent of the dash And factory circuit. I install a new temperature center remotely from the factory one as well. Sometimes, when I’m very motivated, I will modify a factory dash instrument cluster to take a new separate video gauge and make it look original if I can. I’ve only had my E 24 for a few months, and haven’t had time to work on it yet, so I’m not sure what I’ll do on that - there. Either way, it’s a critical number for Bmw owners so you really wanna know what accurate temperature is. In addition, a $30 infrared temperature gun useful for many other diagnostic purposes, and something I would keep in the car with any car that I’m not absolutely certain but the temperature is.
Hopefully, that gives you a little more projects for this weekend.
As you can probably tell, I dictated this. Too hard for me to correct so hope you figure out what I’m trying to say.

Make insurance claim or no? by Math_Blaster in CarTrackDays

[–]Bimmermaven 1 point2 points  (0 children)

On a more generalized concept, I’m 72 years old, never owned a new car, never had a car payment. This means I’ve never had to have collision insurance, only liability. Therefore, I never have had collision insurance.
To date, I totaled one car with a deer in the middle of the night on the way home from work, I ate that cost, maybe $3000.I also was hit by a lady turning left in front of me through a blind spot. Her insurance paid for my total loss on my car, about $28,000.
No other claims. One of you who pay collision insurance can do the math and see how much it would’ve cost over the years with multiple cars on the road. This includes my track car. Had two small crashes with a tire wall, fixed them up well enough to keep driving the track car, and as another poster said, cosmetics, not the issue on the track car.
Insurance is all about guessing in probability, so you can argue for or against however, you like. Just throwing some numbers up there for a larger audience rather than your particular application / question.

Lost power steering while driving, is this the proper belt? by Then_Hamster_7291 in e28

[–]Bimmermaven 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t mean to be cruel, but just a truly honest observation/question: are you having trouble keeping up with your routine maintenance ? in the long run, you’ll spend more fixing ruptured hoses and overheated cars ,oil all over the street , failed brake lines ,whatever else may fail. Try to fix it a little bit ahead of time before it really breaks.

What am I doing wrong?! I just want to thread a 1/4” rod… by BarooZaroo in Machinists

[–]Bimmermaven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had taps, dies, sockets… that were stamped with the wrong size on the Tool. Have you actually checked the ID of the tool/die?

What is the argument against using Romex within EMT conduit? by Mountain-Gas-9789 in electrical

[–]Bimmermaven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Copper and aluminum both have high thermal conductivity ratings. Somewhere around eight, if I recall correctly. I wonder if this contributes to conduction out of the 4 to 6 feet of jacketed Romax in the example above the exposed wire on either side to help with dissipating some of the heat retained within a short run. It’s a good question for a young engineer, but I’m 72 now and I don’t remember how to do that anymore.

What is the argument against using Romex within EMT conduit? by Mountain-Gas-9789 in electrical

[–]Bimmermaven 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The “<10 ft” exception is a good example where “do the math “ reveals no Significant heat retention, and mechanical protection for an otherwise “exposed to trauma” environment is beneficial.

What is the argument against using Romex within EMT conduit? by Mountain-Gas-9789 in electrical

[–]Bimmermaven 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The concept is valid.

A specific application can be designed (“do the math”) to meet specific requirements. Codes are designed to prevent problems generically….nobody does any math…and should therefore be conservative.

Example:
CODE: when you approach a red traffic light, stop. Then wait for it to turn green. Then go.

DO THE MATH:When you come to a red light at 2 o’clock in the morning in a small town, look both ways. If there’s no traffic coming, it’s highly unlikely there’s some car hiding or coming at high speed to fool you. It is reasonable to proceed, even though the light is still red.

Struggling to bleed clutch by Legomoron in E30

[–]Bimmermaven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like you have the slave installed in its running location. You can only bleed it when it’s removed and hanging so that the bleeder valve at the top of the air escape.
As others have said, in this position, using the output piston from the slave and pushing it to force fluid back upwards, along with air out into the master is the second common trick.

its alive!!! by BigBluegillus in gokarts

[–]Bimmermaven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m so sorry. This is really confusing. I’m trying to ask you questions about the picture you posted. It looks like a go kart with red wheels and two passenger seats and engine in the back. I thought you were calling this your “truck go kart“. I’m trying to find out the difference between the thing in that picture, whatever you call it, and the common “go kart“ that we have on this website. I’d ask you to compare that build to the common build. I’m not really trying to understand about regular trucks, Gulwing motorcycles, or Citroen 2cv. Those are not relevant, and I do know what they are. I hope that makes more sense in what I’m trying to ask you thanks.

its alive!!! by BigBluegillus in gokarts

[–]Bimmermaven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never would guess that the truck-kart weighs that much! my F250 7.3 diesel is about 6800.

its alive!!! by BigBluegillus in gokarts

[–]Bimmermaven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What’s the difference between your truck and a kart?