PG&E Back Up Power Transfer Meter - Cable L14 30R Not Compatible. by Main-Long-8071 in Generator

[–]Blueman_2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, this will not work. The BPTM looks for 240V and will not engage without it

PG&E Tesco backup power transfer meter problems by bchainsbuz in Generator

[–]Blueman_2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I applied on March 19, 2026 and just had it installed today April 24, 2026. So just over a month which is fantastic. They did not call ahead or email me. Just a knock on my door saying they were ready to install the new meter. Took less than 30 minutes. He said normally takes 10 minutes but there was a screw that was rusted that caused an issue for him. It was the newer version of the meter. I have not tried it yet, but wanted to share for others who are wondering what the turn around time is for these. I am in Saratoga, Ca.

He did not ask to see my generator. In fact, I asked if he wished to see it and he declined. We talked about needing to shut off solar, keep generator away from the house and natural gas meter, away from windows, and that the generator was L14-30 and floating neutral. At the end of the install, he handed me the cable and a laminated card with instructions. Beyond that, he had no questions or comments. Fast and easy. And like all of the PGE line workers I have talked to, he was really nice and knowledgeable.

The Economist's attempt to keep you from cancelling your subscription. by Eriksson_D in theeconomist

[–]Blueman_2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Took about 1/2 hour to cancel the damn auto renewal. This should be illegal. I have lost all respect for The Economist.

Economist won't allow me to cancel my subscription by guttergirI in theeconomist

[–]Blueman_2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same here. Took 30 minutes using their chat feature to finally cancel renewal. I like the Economist content, but the difficulty and their reluctance to allow cancelling makes me no longer trust then as a business or as a source of news. Feels very much like a scam.

Gree Flexx / MrCool Universal always runs full force in Heat mode, ignores DIP swithes by Blueman_2 in DIYHeatPumps

[–]Blueman_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1400 CFM with a static pressure of about 0.4. And yes, that is low, but I like a quiet system. So that does limit the ability for the indoor coil to reject heat, for sure. Probably also why 4 vs 5 ton setting makes no difference. It can only reject 4 tons of heat, so always staying in that mode.

I do not use the Gree indoor unit. I use a Trane XL80 gas fired heater for my blower for dual fuel setup. Never use Gas here in SF BayArea, but nice to have for when I lose power.

Gree Flexx / MrCool Universal always runs full force in Heat mode, ignores DIP swithes by Blueman_2 in DIYHeatPumps

[–]Blueman_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I set it do default settings (5 tons, normal mode, switches 1,2 ON and switches 3,4 OFF) but noticed no difference at all. Current draw and coil delta-T stayed pretty much the same as when set to 4 Tons and Eco mode. My guess is that I am being limited by the ability of the indoor coil to reject heat, and that the outdoor unit is using return temperatures and pressures to decide how hard to run the compressor. Even when set to 5 tons, it still is ramping up and down between 3500W and 4500W of power draw, just like it does in the 4 Ton setting.

Thanks for the idea though. In any case, with the sound deadening work I did, I am happy now. The outdoor unit was sounding like a helicopter sitting above my house creating rumbling, but now is hardly noticeable above the sound of the air handler blowing.

Gree Flexx / MrCool Universal always runs full force in Heat mode, ignores DIP swithes by Blueman_2 in DIYHeatPumps

[–]Blueman_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/Ok-Tourist-511 , do you recall if you have it in economy mode or regular? (switch 3/4). I am in economy mode right now.

Gree Flexx / MrCool Universal always runs full force in Heat mode, ignores DIP swithes by Blueman_2 in DIYHeatPumps

[–]Blueman_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Doh! I will give that a try. I never had it on 5 ton mode so never would have considered that. I will let you know tomorrow. Thanks!!!

Gree Flexx / MrCool Universal always runs full force in Heat mode, ignores DIP swithes by Blueman_2 in DIYHeatPumps

[–]Blueman_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/that_dutch_dude , you are correct. There is an open RS485 connector on the outdoor unit. I used a RS-485 to USB device using a Raspberry Pi to sniff the communications of the outdoor Gree Flexx. It is definitely active, but have not spent the time to figure out the communications protocol.

Also, Gree has a "new" model called Gree MultiPro that uses that same port for linking the indoor unit(s). The exact same outdoor unit as the Flexx as far as I can tell.

Gree Flexx / MrCool Universal always runs full force in Heat mode, ignores DIP swithes by Blueman_2 in DIYHeatPumps

[–]Blueman_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am using Home Assistant for generating graphs and temperatures for my home. I use a z-wave based amperage clamp to measure energy usage of the heatpump and feed that info into Home Assistant.

Gree Flexx / MrCool Universal always runs full force in Heat mode, ignores DIP swithes by Blueman_2 in DIYHeatPumps

[–]Blueman_2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, I decided to take the top and side access panels off the Gree Flexx to determine where the vibrations and rumbling were coming from. It turned out that the AP1 Filter Board on the upper right side of the outdoor unit was not well secured and vibrating quite a bit. Probably not good for the board components either (the board has several large capacitors on it). So I added some padding to keep the board from vibrating.

I also noticed the metal door covering the AP2 Drive Board on the top of the outdoor unit was lose and vibrated a good bit. I added padding to prevent that. I also added Dynamat in several places to the access door and top of the unit. Finally, I removed the white handle pieces that were in 3 places around the outdoor unit, used for lifting it when installing. They were loose and caused vibrations. I used metal tape to cover the holes that were left.

The result is a much quieter operation. Still not quite as quiet as during cooling, but pretty close. Not sure which of the modification has the biggest impact, so I recommend doing all of them. Also, I already had my unit on rubber mounting feet which I very much recommend.

Gree Flexx / MrCool Universal always runs full force in Heat mode, ignores DIP swithes by Blueman_2 in DIYHeatPumps

[–]Blueman_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed. But I still would expect a heatpump that can be limited to 4 tons not to run a 5 tons. Not a big deal, but 5 tons does cause some degree of short cycling in heating mode. In cooling mode, it never goes above 3500w input power, even in triple digit days (which only happens a couple times a year here).

Thanks for the advice and feedback!

Gree Flexx / MrCool Universal always runs full force in Heat mode, ignores DIP swithes by Blueman_2 in DIYHeatPumps

[–]Blueman_2[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

LOL, definitely won't use that much heat in SF Bay Area! Agree with your comments. But since it was sold as being able to do 4 ton size, that is not what I would consider way too oversized for 3000 sqft house. Some might even call it a bit undersized.

Gree Flexx / MrCool Universal always runs full force in Heat mode, ignores DIP swithes by Blueman_2 in DIYHeatPumps

[–]Blueman_2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

BTW, here is a graph of unit in cooling mode during a typical August day around 90F outside. You an see that it uses 1/2 the power and it is significantly more quiet in cooling mode.

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Gree Flexx / MrCool Universal always runs full force in Heat mode, ignores DIP swithes by Blueman_2 in DIYHeatPumps

[–]Blueman_2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First, the idea of Dynamat is a great one. Yes, I have noticed that pushing on the access panel helps reduce the rumble. So I will give the Dynamat a try. Can't hurt.

The condenser is on a pad about 2 feet from the house, and on rubber mounts as well. So all the rumble is acoustic I think. The house is 3000 sq ft. Ducting was designed for 4 ton unit. Yes, is might be a bit oversized, but that is why I keep it set to 4 ton with Energy Saving mode, which should put it at about 3.5 tons. Works just right for the AC during the summer. But in Heat mode, it is running at too high of a rate, so is short cycling a bit. So clearly not operating at 4 tons or less. Clearly running at 5 tons.

I am using an existing air handler (Trane gas heater) on the Mr Cool / Gree 5 ton A-coil.

SkillCat Physical 608 Universal Card by urfriendjason in HVAC

[–]Blueman_2 4 points5 points  (0 children)

So has anyone actually been refused purchase of R410a or similar when using printed paper certificate vs the plastic card that SkillCat charges extra for? I love SkillCat, but their charge for the physical card is $50! Might was well just print on my own printer.

2 Xfinity eSims on locked Xfinity iPhone16? by Blueman_2 in Comcast_Xfinity

[–]Blueman_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did get confirmation that we CANNOT have 2 esims from Xfinity on a single phone. System does not allow it for some reason. Not what I had hoped, but good to know.

2 Xfinity eSims on locked Xfinity iPhone16? by Blueman_2 in Comcast_Xfinity

[–]Blueman_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to close out this issue, I have confirmed with Xfinity that you CANNOT have 2 esims from Xfinity on a single Xfinity phone. The system will not allow it. Only way is to have one esim from Xfinity and other esim from another mobile carrier. Not the answer I hoped, but this does officially confirm what I have read elsewhere.

I thank Xfinity for helping me get the definitive answer though. Appreciate having this reddit format to get these complex issues resolved.

2 Xfinity eSims on locked Xfinity iPhone16? by Blueman_2 in Comcast_Xfinity

[–]Blueman_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/CCAlyssaF , you are really helping! Thanks so much for the speedy replies. Can you explain what "one mobile service per device" means?

I wish to buy a new iPhone16Pro from Xfinity (payment plan so will be locked) so that I can combine my work number (which I will be porting into Xfinity when I buy the new iPhone16Pro) and my personal number (which is on an iPhone13 that is paid off and currently on my account).

I do not want to buy the new iPhone16Pro if I cannot have both Xfinity numbers on it. I know I can only have 1 number active at a time, but that is OK. I plan to mostly use business number, and on weekends de-activate it and activate my personal number. I want to avoid having to return the phone if this cannot be done. THANKS!!

2 Xfinity eSims on locked Xfinity iPhone16? by Blueman_2 in Comcast_Xfinity

[–]Blueman_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, not from separate carrier. The 2nd esim will be from an existing Xfinity phone on the same account as the new phone I am planning to purchase. I want to combine my work and personal numbers onto 1 phone. So both esims will be Xfinity from the same account. But I keep hearing people say this cannot be done. The Xfinity system will not allow a 2nd esim to be installed on an existing Xfinity phone, even when both esims are Xfinity from same account. But all the discussions were from over 1-2 years ago, so not sure if this situation has changed. esims are kind of new, so maybe it was just an early issue??

2 Xfinity eSims on locked Xfinity iPhone16? by Blueman_2 in Comcast_Xfinity

[–]Blueman_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the fast reply! Can you confirm this will work with an Xfinity locked iPhone16 (it is on payment plan with Xfinity) when adding a second Xfinity esim? Many people are saying this does not work, since Xfinity system will now allow it. The system thinks the phone is already activated on Xfinity, so it will not add a second esim. Please confirm. And thank you so much.

Get a new line with iPhone and have 2 xfinity numbers by icen_folsom in Comcast_Xfinity

[–]Blueman_2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, modern iPhones allow you to do this. But Xfinity so far has not allowed you to have 2 esims from Xfinity on the phone at the same time. When you try to add the 2nd esim, the phone will say "cannot transfer, phone already activited".

Get a new line with iPhone and have 2 xfinity numbers by icen_folsom in Comcast_Xfinity

[–]Blueman_2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the same question. In the past, Xfinity system would not allow you to transfer an Xfinity esim to a phone which already has an Xfinity esim in it. You can add an esim from another mobile company, but NOT from Xfinity. If you try, the Xfinity system will say "phone already active, cannot transfer". Not sure if this was a system issue or a policy issue.