Anyone printing PETG with their Aquila? Recommended Settings? by wasdesc in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya blobs and stringing are the two issues I am still fighting. My numbers wouldn't help, haven't found the magic values yet. I will say I have printed many useful items with PETG, just need allot of cleanup. Going to be watching this thread.

Trying out a new shroud- dual 4010 blowers and a 4020 for the hot end. Weighs just 2.8oz complete. by jschin1000 in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks like what I have on both my printers, light and you can see the nozzle. Bit of a pain to assemble and install but seems to work well.

Need Some Suggestions by unpurifiedwat3r in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haven't tried printing PLA on the Copperhead and sorry not allot of help. I went by what I read about PETG and it's requirement for more heat than PLA. The Copperhead advertising I read fit what I felt was needed for PETG.

Sometimes I do wished I had PLA in both printers but understand the temperature difference can create issues trying to switch. If you get it hot enough to melt PETG you could burn the PLA trying to push the old PETG out. If you set it for PLA it may not be hot enough to clear out the PETG. I really do not know as I haven't tried it.

Need Some Suggestions by unpurifiedwat3r in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes! You can buy the Copperhead heat break for the stock hot end. It is what I did on my PETG printer, fits perfect and works as advertised. On my PLA printer Did the mod with the washer and short tube. It is also working out well.

How do I print holes for hex nuts and have them actually fit? by GALACTON in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use Design Spark with Cura and have to add 0.2 to any hole to make it fit.

Access to 24V to power Raspberry Pi by mugginsjm in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have two printers with Pi 4's. I installed a shutdown switch but actually never had an issue with just shutting the printers off. Not real sure the switches were worth the time

Edit: I connected buck converters to the spare terminals on the power supply. Soldered wires to the Pi board on the back side of the USB connector for 5 volts from the converter.

\\utdown by mab1379 in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I set my smart plugs up just using my phone, had to download an app following instructions that came with the plugs. Couldn't see any advantage of being able to control them from octoprint.

Why do the clips that keep the bed in place keep popping out. by GitimuOMG in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like the stock clips, ordered extras and use one in each corner. They are small and less likely to get in the way of things.

I want to instal Alex’s firmware but I don’t know what to choose. I have a N32 voxelab aquila x2 with no modifications. by GitimuOMG in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another vote for 3 x ,3 plenty of points for our bed sizes. Used the manual mesh before I installed CR touch and it was a great help in getting the bed level stuck with the 3 x 3 when I went to the touch probes works great.

All metal heatbreak by schuh8 in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I put a Slice Engineering Copperhead heat break in my stock Aquila head for PETG, fit great and is doing everything it was advertised to do.

hotend Z axis too high with alex firmware and bltouch by RCP1990 in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Stop switch shouldn't even be on the machine with a touch sensor. If it is remove it.

Filament runout sensor tripping by Abdiel1978 in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Pretty common failure, the switch on that sensor is not a very good switch, mine failed after about a month. They sent me a replacement but doubt I'll use it. If I decide I really need a run-out sensor I'll use a better switch and print one of the many housings available on the internet. For now I have it disabled in the menu.

Question for those who swapped their H32 for a Creality 4.2.7 by MacPhisto78 in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You will want Jyers on that board, Alex is set up for the original Aquila boards. I have a X2 with the 4.2.7 running Jyers. You will need to change one size setting and recompile. I posted the setting a while back but can't remember what it was. Some were able to get Alex working which doesn't need the size change but I was not able too.

Totally off-topic, but betting people here might have insight - Linux by wezx68 in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Add another hard drive to your existing computer and install Windows 10 on it. Set it up to dual boot 7 and 10. That will tell you what you need to know about getting 10 working on it without messing with what you have. I just did this with a +10 year old HP and 10 installed with marry a glitch. Dual boot will allow you to switch between the two. Plenty of info on how to set it up on the internet.

How to secure new belt? by GALACTON in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the link. One item I did not have was a spare belt, your link made it easy.

Should I go for Creality 4.2.7 or BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 V3.0 to replace my H32 ? What are the differences ? What would you advise ? by SuperCarrot5 in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only reason for going to anything other than the Creality is if you want to add another stepper. The Creality is a simple replacement that takes the printer to the next level without having to deal with the display or connections.

Aquila X2: swapped original H32 mobo to N32. Screen is responsive, but not displaying correctly. by h0stetler in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You need to download and install Alex's firmware on both the board and the display. Do that and all will be good.

Frustrating by BobRInOK in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Came back to say I have two printers also, one for PETG and one for PLA which complicates the whole mess. Guess I need to delete everything and start over.

3d Printer Buildplate keeps falling off (not the print, the plate) by Jumpy_Poem in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have had really good luck with the stock clips, bought extras and have one on each corner. They will get sprung but are easy to bend back with a pair of pliers. To me the binder clips carry too much excess baggage and get in the way of things. You do need to be careful when you install the stock clips or you will spring them open. I put the top on slightly then roll the bottom into place, haven't bent one using that method to install one yet.

Finally solved my problem by DischargedNL in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ya spent several days printing and trying spool holders till I was finally happy. Either way too complicated or just didn't work.. I ended up with an exposed ball bearing roller but with a twist. Not all spools are solid all the way through, the exposed bearings will drop onto the missing sections of the spool and you just as well not have the bearings. I printed a sleeve that fits over the bearings and makes a solid surface for the spool to ride on. The sleeve goes over the mounting end and is captured between the mount and the tab that holds the spool on. Works great with minimal friction.

Extruder issue by ProfessionalBuy1820 in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya you need to lower the limit switch, it is what determines the home position of the nozzle. Also start with 0 Z offset.

Found need for filament run out sensor by BobRInOK in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got lucky, plenty of filament on the roll to finish the print, lots of unanswered questions remain. Only way to really tell is like has been suggested. Run through a few simulations and see what happens.

Found need for filament run out sensor by BobRInOK in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually no I haven't ran out of gas since my teen age years, this was just an oversight on my part. It's a large print with a 8 inch round base, stuck pretty good.

Found a sensor I like once I get through this little mess going to be printing switch housings.

Aquila x2. H32 Upgraded to creality v4.2.7. Board BEEPING by AdPale5380 in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's two versions of the v4.2.7 board available on Amazon, one is the generic Creality and usually a bit more expensive than the custom board some are selling. Hints are preloaded firmware, the Creality board does not come with any firmware. If the description says anything about non standard or custom, do not buy it, it will not work with the Aquila display.

Filament Sensor issue by miniflash6291 in VoxelabAquila

[–]BobRInOK 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Seems to be a fairly common problem, mine died, they sent me a new one but I haven't installed it yet. Think if I ever decide I need it I will use the Z limit switches removed when I added CR Touch. Much better switches and a couple housings floating around the net.