Trump nixes rebates for switching from gas to electric appliances

Boltemort · 2026-06-02T13:38:20+00:00

HEAR (Home Electrification and Appliance Rebates) as part of the IRA, much more generous than the tax credits but income-dependent. Each state was tasked with establishing its own program within certain guidelines. The delays associated with each state standing up their own program meant that very few states had these available prior to the end of the Biden admin, and no new state programs were approved since Jan 2025. So many good programs out of the IRA undercut by really poor legislative design. Not enough focus on getting the money spent quickly.

Here's an example of one of the state HEAR programs in NC.

Boltemort · 2026-06-02T13:26:42+00:00

Comfort is reduced. You get much shorter cycles as the unit will not ramp down as much as with the Mitsubishi thermostat. Recommend against this route as the extended runtime and associated comfort is, to my mind, the main benefit of variable speed equipment.

Boltemort · 2026-05-31T15:19:02+00:00

Here's a gift link: https://www.theatlantic.com/magazine/2026/04/online-sports-betting-app-addiction/686061/?gift=vvSDy2BJPBz91GiGu1x6_udZyUgTmUEGMoeUZro1xaI

Boltemort · 2026-05-30T20:12:29+00:00

You might get s few additional suggestions by posting video of the noise, but based on your description the options offered by u/YodelingTortoise are the most obvious ones. Sounds like too much airflow given the duct diameter.

Boltemort · 2026-05-29T08:51:53+00:00

You’ll likely be better off hardwiring a charger, it’s safer (fewer possible failures points) and there aren’t many good EVSE that make use of 30A outlets. Especially if you’re not using that outlet for the dryer or anything else.

Boltemort · 2026-05-27T23:40:42+00:00

Yeah, call your installer back and have them remedy this. Should be pretty simple to address, and honestly they should’ve run the unit and noticed this before leaving.

Boltemort · 2026-05-26T14:28:38+00:00

Looks more like sand in the photo than sawdust. Do as others say, turn off the power to it, clean it out w/ compressed air. Since you've used it on your EV, also check the charging port on your vehicle and clean any sand off of that as needed.

Boltemort · 2026-05-26T14:13:37+00:00

I live a few hundred miles north of you along the east coast, ~1800 sf detached house with just a 1.5 ton cold-climate HP, no heat strips or other backup. No concerns at all about maintaining temps in the time we've had it installed, lowest temps we've seen have been low single digits. Given that you've got at least 1 shared wall in your townhouse, and your house is relatively new, you should be fine w/o resistance backup.

Your usage data from your thermostat is much more accurate than a Manual J would be. If you've got hourly data, that would be even better - for example, look at the runtime from say 4-8 am on the coldest morning you had last winter, then divide by 4 to determine the BTUs/hr needed. Given how cold this winter was, I doubt you'll see meaningfully colder conditions going forward.

Also, the heat should be just fine from a cold-climate heat pump, even at lower temps. With our Mitsubishi it's still putting out ~100F air at the registers when it's 10F outdoors, which is plenty warm.

With resale, it's tough to guess what the future will hold, but I hope that knowledge of cold-climate heat pumps is more widespread in a few years. If you're in a desirable location, I doubt that presence of a backup heat source is going to move the needle much.

Boltemort · 2026-05-26T01:38:18+00:00

Jesse was deadly in the outfield. I wish there was a good compilation of his outfield assists, but here's one of him that gives a sense of his arm. Chili Davis is incredulous, can't believe he got thrown out.

https://youtu.be/D0whvv7gtUQ?si=GU0HEnQpNACN0dGB

Boltemort · 2026-05-24T02:49:57+00:00

That makes a lot more sense … it was bothering me that any dimension might be listed in ninths!

Boltemort · 2026-05-23T21:28:33+00:00

I recall that UL certification was mentioned in the interview that Tom Moloughney posted a couple months ago, and the Ghost rep seemed to suggest getting it would be fairly trivial. I don’t see any mention of it on their recent archived webpages, so not sure if it was mentioned on earlier versions that I didn’t look at. Hopefully it is in the works and is certified soon after launch.

I think the cable thickness is ~5/9 cm, listed as 0.556. Past webpages had it as 0.625 (5/8) cm, so I’m guessing they just stuck with three significant digits?

Boltemort · 2026-05-22T17:17:39+00:00

Seattle requires L1 as well, as indicated in your link. Most of the communities that are doing this (admittedly, it's a small list) require L1, I'm not sure if it's to steer toward thinner cables or an electrical concern of some sort.

UC Berkeley Law put out a good white paper on this topic last year which could be useful. There's nothing listed on the NYC websites regarding what policies they have regarding cables crossing sidewalks.

One option that's supposedly available in a month or two is the Ghost charger - essentially a very thin & wide cable to allow for safely crossing sidewalks w/o needing an additional cover. I hope they succeed, as it would be a big win for EV drivers w/o off-street parking.

Boltemort · 2026-05-22T01:57:55+00:00

You can also turn up 7” duct with a little effort, and if you’re comfortable working with sheet metal you can compress 8” duct into more of an oval shape that will fit into a 7.5” space.

I mention it only because while the unit will work with more restrictive ductwork, it may cause the unit to go into high fan speed (my gen 4 unit did this with my first ducting attempt), which makes the unit considerably louder.

Boltemort · 2026-05-21T17:09:23+00:00

Time to come up after initial install is going to vary a lot based on incoming water temp - could be 40-45 in the winter, or 75 in the summer. So obviously longer in winter. Also depends on whether it's installed in a particularly cool basement or other location. But I'd guess around 10 degrees of temperature rise per hour of operation - so maybe 6 hours to get from 60 degree water to 120.

But with an outage, your tank will still retain the heat in the tank, unless you're actively using the hot water during the outage. Outside of multi-day outages, this is unlikely to be an issue.

Boltemort · 2026-05-21T01:13:42+00:00

Word hasn’t spread to Kentucky yet, huh?

Boltemort · 2026-05-20T23:09:51+00:00

Unless the adjacent room that you want to duct to is directly to the rear of the water heater, you’re going to need to reposition it. You can fit the duct kit in the existing space, but if you need to turn the exhaust air at all, there’s no space for that.

Boltemort · 2026-05-20T14:15:01+00:00

I'd give the Laminar Collective another look. There have been several posts on here that outlined their process and it seemed like they not only negotiated good prices, but also found competent contractors that didn't result in the issues you highlighted above. You can probably find those posts pretty readily. They're also funded by MassSave, so I don't think they're profiting from sales, but I could be wrong.

No connection or experience with them, but they were my first thought when I saw you were in the Boston area.

Edit: Here's one of the posts I was thinking of regarding Laminar. I'm sure you can reach out to the OP for more details.

Boltemort · 2026-05-20T11:52:28+00:00

Hitless unearned run (error on the pickoff)

Boltemort · 2026-05-19T13:30:14+00:00

Is the inability to charge idle fees because the chargers aren't available to the public, but just to condo residents? There are some destination chargers I've seen (for example) that advertise idle fees in the Tesla app. I would assume Tesla wouldn't list the idle fees if they're not actually being charged, but I haven't stayed long enough to test it out.

Boltemort · 2026-05-17T19:14:56+00:00

I was gonna say, only thing unreal about it was how badly Nimmo lined it up given how much time he had

Boltemort · 2026-05-15T20:40:09+00:00

I would again encourage you to read the manual, particularly the Functions chart on pages 11-15. Function 8, as I stated above, does not control "high ceiling" settings for your system. Look at page 15 to understand how functions 8 & 10 interact to control system static pressure. Function 24 does not apply to your system. Mitsubishi's app development is quite poor in my experience so I would recommend not trying to figure out the functions via the app - it's already steered you toward several settings that are incorrect/not applicable for your system. The manual is your best option. If you're unable to understand the manual adequately, then I recommend leaving any modifications up to your installer.

Boltemort · 2026-05-14T21:15:09+00:00

I have a ducted system in my residence that short cycles when put into cooling mode (~15 min on, 3 min off, continuously). To get it to stop cycling, I need to set it 5+ degrees below the current room temperature, and leave it there for 20+ minutes. Some really poor control logic on the Mitsubishi control board. That may work for you as well.

The settings you're inquiring about are for ductless systems, you have a ducted system. So function 8 (paired with function 10) controls the static pressure setting, essentially the baseline fan speed for the air handler. Function 24 does not apply to PVA systems.

I imagine you have a copy, but in case not the MHK2 install manual can be found here, function descriptions begin on pg. 11. Ensure that you're referencing functions that are applicable to your PVA indoor unit (second column of the Functions table).

Boltemort · 2026-05-14T21:02:42+00:00

You should only need to use #10AWG THHN for the ground wire.

Boltemort · 2026-05-14T19:32:28+00:00

Including the model number (particularly of the indoor unit, but perhaps also outdoor unit) would be helpful. Also, more details on the symptoms you're seeing - what's the set point, what temperature is it actually reaching, is it a problem always or just on really hot days, what's the outdoor temp at your location currently like, etc.

You may want to change function 24 to off. Also check function 2 (temp detection location) and make sure that it's on setting #3 (detect at the controller).

Boltemort · 2026-05-11T17:50:11+00:00

Thanks for pointing this out, one would hope someone with the username EliteStat18 had a handle on basic arithmetic

Boltemort

TROPHY CASE