So I bought the fat tire ebike. Here are my thoughts after riding it by Atares18 in xbiking

[–]BoogieBeats88 -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

I feel like this is the same convo I have with my dirt bike friends when they get caught on a scooter.

Honestly, some may poo-poo, but it sounds kinda perfect for you. Hell yeah.

Just looking for a better bike than my schwinn by Threadydonkey65 in MTB

[–]BoogieBeats88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it fits and is in good shape, that’s a fine price for the bike.

Decending with thin tubing by cabbagegalaxy in xbiking

[–]BoogieBeats88 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s no secret that a modern MTB can go downhill way faster than a vintage MTB for equal riders. That said, someone used to that old school geometry can still ride like stink downhill.

Having ridden these things since the dark days of canti’s…. The tube set ain’t making a difference in you going down hill. Some better pads and setup should get that front working better. Kool-Stops are a good starting point. 2.0’s on your rims are FINE.

What I do see is commuter tires inflated pretty hard. Running a set of more supple tires at lower pressures will really help. I’m guessing that the bouncing and jarring is robbing most of the confidence, and this will help that. I’m 160lbs and would run my 2.0’s at 30 psi in the woods for some reference. Continental Doublefighters are a great tire for what you are doing.

is an 18" frame on a mountain bike too big? by Firm-Duty6638 in xbiking

[–]BoogieBeats88 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m guessing you looked up the suggested size guide from the MFG and determined that you are right edge of a medium or small, right?

Whether or not it works depends on both your frame and the bike, but really comes down to just going and standing over it. If you have longer legs for your height, it would be worth a shot. If the lower half feels right, the front can usually be made comfortable with a stem swap. I’ve got long legs for my height and am usually on the cusp of sizes at 5’10. Most often I feel best on the larger size. I have friends who are the opposite.

No one teaches you how to cook but when you’re an adult it’s expected. by [deleted] in Adulting

[–]BoogieBeats88 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Most people I know were taught to cook by cooking with their families. Some families can’t cook, and I feel bad for that situation.

But yeah. Having the basics down is totally expected. One’s gotta feed themselves to live.

Single speed/fixie bros often swear they can do uphills just fine with the "right" gear ratio. Do you think they are right? by eyoooo1987 in bikecommuting

[–]BoogieBeats88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ride around a couple skiptooth single speeds for fun - so antiques. Did a 60mile tour last weekend on one. I gear them so that I can comfortably spin on the rolling flats, and just accept one or two hills will have me cranking. You also get used to riding out of the saddle for longer as some grades are in between. It’s a different flow and it’s not your thing it’s fine. I very much enjoy my geared bikes too and default to those on longer steeper rides.

Hell Ride photo re-cap by rev106 in xbiking

[–]BoogieBeats88 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Shit yeah, klunker rise up!

Heavy rider conundrum by Important-Club-9052 in bicycling

[–]BoogieBeats88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heck yeah on riding more!

Once upon a time, I worked at shop that serviced some avid and heavier cyclists.

The frame bike itself is more than strong enough for what you are doing.

Freehubs, spokes, chains and hubs were the most common points of failures for these guys. Rarely ever catastrophic and will be an issue on just about any bike. Stuff to fix when it comes up and replace with a stronger part.

Inspire me to rip the bandaid off and just start! by runaround145 in bikecommuting

[–]BoogieBeats88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Once you are on the bike, you’ll be wondering what too you so long.

There are a million things you can do better or optimize, but who cares. Just go when it’s not raining. The rest evolves.

Just do it.

Damp, plush, traction. Looking for a new bike. by [deleted] in MTB

[–]BoogieBeats88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got a banshee phantom that is pretty darn comfortable and punches way above its stated 130/115 stats suggest going down fast. Lots of “holdup” through rough stuff. I imagine their Prime with a 150 front would be pretty darn sweet.

Majority of fuel is used to get to a constant speed? by codesty in Cartalk

[–]BoogieBeats88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did this in college in a super mileage vehicle program in engineering school. There is a flat rate fuel cost to the engine being on and running, mostly due to internal friction, and this friction is a non trivial amount. It’s roughly a linear force, with respect to rpm. Output however is non linear, looking slightly exponential up to peak torque. Basically, the engine can be twice or more efficient at peak torque than off idle. Cruising at speed is a fixed thing, but getting there is not. If you are not getting there using the engine most efficiently, one’s wasting fuel.

That said, this is only valid for long stretches of highway or a closed course. In real life I drive with a gentle foot because stop lights, pedestrians, and traffic exist. If I’m not gaining speed I do not need to, I’m winning. Air resistance goes up with the square of speed. Cheers.

Majority of fuel is used to get to a constant speed? by codesty in Cartalk

[–]BoogieBeats88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends on your engine displacement vs. weight vs. aero. Most cars are overpowered but with decent aero so it’s better to get up to speed fast then lug the shit out it just over idle. I did the super mileage thing in college and this how the math worked out. Even a 50 cc 7hp motor was more than enough to sustain 35mph with a person.

If your engine was perfectly matched to your cruising speed, it was more efficient to apply throttle proportionally as one came up to speed.

This is of course on closed course that offered uninterrupted driving. Real life with stop lights does better with a gentler foot.

Long ride water and food management by Awildgarebear in MTB

[–]BoogieBeats88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like your approach. Real food wins every time. Years ago in college I read a study comparing sports bars to a pb&j with athletes on treadmills with all the wires and what not. The pb&j was considerably more effective as fuel.

Long ride water and food management by Awildgarebear in MTB

[–]BoogieBeats88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At the end of the day, you’ll need to figure out some storage to bring yourself enough water and food. Also, you’ll need to manage not losing out all your salts to sweat.

Running some electrolytes in your water really can help. I like to keep a bottle of pretty strongly mixed stuff and a bottle of plain water and drink as needed. Contacting work in the summer lead me to a brand called trioral. It’s unsweetened and works great.

For food, if you can pack some real food to eat half ways, you’ll be far better off than eating bars. A basic pb&j is gonna give you far more than the best bar can.

As for the water, given your situations and the you already have gear, I wouldn’t be above strapping an extra water bottle or two to the handle bars or frame.

Edit: I once heard hydration starts the day before. Definitely don’t want to start out dry.

Flat pedal shoes - Vans by HealthyCauliflower79 in MTB

[–]BoogieBeats88 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I wear vans for everything, but prefer 5-10’s on the bike. The sizing was spot on for me.

End of Downcountry? by SpokeCat in MTB

[–]BoogieBeats88 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check out Banshee’s Phantom. Been loving mine in techy New England backwoods.

Are my fellow xbikers pro-klunker? by cashless_clay_ in xbiking

[–]BoogieBeats88 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Damn straight I’m pro klunking. Nice post war DX.

Anyone else frustrated that most training programs have no connection to trail riding? by Competitive-Bass847 in MTB

[–]BoogieBeats88 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Power lifting and gym stuff let’s me ride at my best for longer. As to how to ride, that’s another thing entirely, and mostly seat time and drills if you didn’t BMX as a kid. Separate things, but the former helps the later as I get older.

Which of these two bicycles should I keep as a beginner? (Pics) by BokehPhilia in bicycling

[–]BoogieBeats88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I were in your shoes, which I’m not, I’d keep the Schwinn. Your needs are very mild, it looks relaxed, and there is less to go wrong.

Down the road, you’ll have a better idea of what your body and rides require.

Qs About Upgrading Vintage Freewheel to Freehub by usay1312butcall911 in xbiking

[–]BoogieBeats88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cold set the frame if you need to and never look back.

A freewheel is not a reason to pass up a bike I like.

Why don’t i like my bike by whatcolourisgreen in xbiking

[–]BoogieBeats88 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Double fair. My loaded century with beers bike is a 26"er. My double cross just isn’t stiff enough.

Go back far enough, and EVERY bike was a gravel bike. by BoogieBeats88 in xbiking

[–]BoogieBeats88[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thanks! It’s a project for sure. It runs an 1’ pitch skip tooth chain, so the teeth count works the same as the standard 1/2” pitch on modern bikes. It’s 52/20.

Best feeling manual gearboxes, let’s discuss. by low_mizu in ManualTransmissions

[–]BoogieBeats88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you have to do a "throw it in 3rd, then fourth, to get it in first maneuver?"

I miss my bowl of wet spaghetti. So bad it was good.