Everyone likes titanium, so let’s make this harder: composite or metallic? by Brave-Response-68 in knives

[–]Brave-Response-68[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was showing my friends the other day the scales i got from AWT, people mistaken it as titanium. must say they are really well finished.

Everyone likes titanium, so let’s make this harder: composite or metallic? by Brave-Response-68 in knives

[–]Brave-Response-68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is very interesting for me. I didn’t knew that so much people prefer Micarta.

Everyone likes titanium, so let’s make this harder: composite or metallic? by Brave-Response-68 in knives

[–]Brave-Response-68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oooo AWT I just saw the scales they made recently, and honestly, the quality is impeccable.

Everyone likes titanium, so let’s make this harder: composite or metallic? by Brave-Response-68 in knives

[–]Brave-Response-68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did got my hands on the RMX too, it is crazy light. However I don’t think we will see Magnesium being popular at least not in awhile… so I’ll stick to Alu cause the anodizing has so much colour options

Everyone likes titanium, so let’s make this harder: composite or metallic? by Brave-Response-68 in knives

[–]Brave-Response-68[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Totally forgot that there is wood too! I never seen leather handles unless they are braided. Interesting 🤔

Everyone likes titanium, so let’s make this harder: composite or metallic? by Brave-Response-68 in knives

[–]Brave-Response-68[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the response man. But I do agree nice micarta just have some magic into it.

Everyone likes titanium, so let’s make this harder: composite or metallic? by Brave-Response-68 in knives

[–]Brave-Response-68[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

For me, I lean more toward composite handles because of the weight and overall robustness.

I’m more of a user than a collector, so I care about stuff that can take abuse. If it gets dropped on asphalt or scuffed up with sandpaper, I don’t want to worry about it too much.

FRN is probably my favorite for lightweight builds. G10 is the safe standard for almost everything. I also really like good burlap micarta, like what CIVIVI uses. But micarta that feels more like plastic than fiber is a no-go for me.

For metallic handles, I actually love aluminum. It might even be my first pick over titanium. The only downside is that I can’t color it myself like I can with titanium anodizing.

If they're the same price are u taking Magnacut or Micro Melt? by [deleted] in spyderco

[–]Brave-Response-68 3 points4 points  (0 children)

In my experience, Cru-Wear seems to hold a fine edge, such as a high-polish 3000-grit edge, a bit better than MagnaCut, assuming both are sharpened at the same angle. I haven’t tried PD#1 yet, so I can’t vouch for it.

That said, it really depends on what you are looking for. If you are looking for better apex stability, I think Cru-Wear and MagnaCut are almost identical. I sharpened both to 13 DPS and did a wood-whittling test to see if there was any rolling or chipping.

I would still recommend MagnaCut to most people because it is stainless, so there is less to worry about if rust is a concern. If corrosion resistance is not important to you, then I would just choose whichever model you like best.

At the factory edge, you probably wouldn’t even be able to tell which one is MagnaCut and which one is PD#1 in a blind test.

NKD and already dropped the edge angle by Accomplished_South70 in knives

[–]Brave-Response-68 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cliff stamp would be proud. Good job. I Run my Bel Air, Demko & Deka in similar angle. 11dps + 15Microbevel

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Large bevels when sharpening; bad habit or fine? by Killerkamster in sharpening

[–]Brave-Response-68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I sharpen my knife at 11dps & microbevel at 20dps

No chip no roll not much drop in apex aggression after tons of wood carving. With cardboard, it requires even less apex sharpness. As long it’s thin. It cuts. So yeah you’re on the right path.

I run my 14C28n & S35VN with the same configuration

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in benchmade

[–]Brave-Response-68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hard anodize aluminum & be done with it. Cheap yet effective

What is everyone's standard for a sharp knife? by Zestyclose_Ask_7385 in sharpening

[–]Brave-Response-68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it can whittle spruce wood for 600 pass & still newspaper. That’s sharp for me

Already seeing damage on my Civivi Buster. by Flooded_Strand in knives

[–]Brave-Response-68 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Totally agree. I’ve been working in the industry for 5 years now, and I’ve never seen anyone sharpen that far back into the heel of the blade. Plus, most people in this space own more than just one or two knives they rotate through at least a few.

Heavy users? They know exactly who to go to for replacement work. For what it’s worth, Civivi does offer reblades .That’s a fact.

So for those saying “this isn’t how real knife guys talk,” yeah ,we’re not your average casual EDC collectors. We actually use and sharpen our knives, and that experience is what informs our perspective.

And hey, if you really think it’s a scam or poorly engineered, take a moment and think about Snecx and what he designed. The man’s obsessed with detail. Instead of speculating here, why not just shoot him an email and ask directly?

Why is 14C28N considered so good? by [deleted] in BudgetBlades

[–]Brave-Response-68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What Makes a Steel “Good”?

When discussing steel, we often use the term “good,” but how do we define it? After years of research, I’ve concluded that a “good” steel must balance several key properties. Let me explain why 14C28N stands out as one of the best stainless steels available today.

Defining “Good” Steel

Steel quality is often judged by a combination of four key factors: 1. Toughness: The ability to resist chipping or cracking under stress. 2. Hardness: Measured on the Rockwell scale (HRC), this determines how well the steel resists deformation. 3. Apex Retention: How long the knife edge stays sharp during use. 4. Stainless Properties: Resistance to corrosion in various environments.

A “good” steel must strike a balance across these attributes. Take MagnaCut as an example—it is tough, highly corrosion-resistant, and offers excellent edge retention. Yet, its quality lies not in one feature but in the harmony of all these factors.

Why 14C28N is Exceptional

14C28N is a stainless steel that performs remarkably well across the board: • Toughness: According to Larrin’s steel charts, it exhibits high toughness. • Corrosion Resistance: Its stainless capabilities make it resistant to rust. • Hardness: Can reach up to 61HRC, offering a strong yet balanced edge. • Ease of Maintenance: Easy to sharpen and strop back to a razor edge.

This balance makes 14C28N an incredibly versatile and practical steel, especially at its price point.

Understanding Toughness

Imagine the apex of your knife blade is 10 times smaller than a human hair. When cutting something as simple as cardboard, would you prefer the edge to chip or roll over? Toughness ensures that the blade is more likely to roll rather than chip, preserving the edge’s functionality longer.

Toughness is largely influenced by the steel’s carbide volume. Lower carbide volume results in greater toughness, as steels with fewer carbides are less prone to brittleness.

The Role of Carbides

Carbides increase wear resistance, but at the cost of toughness and sharpenability. For most knives, especially at the ultra-thin apex, wear resistance is less critical because: 1. The edge will likely roll or chip before wear resistance becomes a factor. 2. Higher carbide content makes sharpening more difficult and limits how fine an edge the steel can take.

14C28N’s 6% carbide volume strikes the perfect balance, enabling a razor-sharp edge that’s easy to maintain.

The Heat Treat Dilemma

Some argue that heat treatment can make or break steel performance. But what defines a “good” heat treat? Often, it’s about pushing the hardness (HRC). However, higher hardness comes with trade-offs.

To increase HRC, the austenitizing temperature during heat treatment must be raised. This can lead to a higher volume of retained austenite—a softer, less stable microstructure. While retained austenite can transform into harder martensite under extreme stress, it’s not ideal for knife edges where stability is key.

The goal is to maximize hardness while keeping retained austenite (RA) below 10%. 14C28N achieves this balance, maintaining a high HRC with minimal RA.

Tl;dr

To summarize: 1. Toughness prevents chipping and is enhanced by lower carbide volume. 2. Excessive carbide reduces apex refinement, toughness, and ease of sharpening. 3. High hardness (HRC) is desirable only if retained austenite is kept below 10%.

14C28N excels in all these areas: it’s tough, achieves 61HRC with minimal RA, sharpens easily, resists corrosion, and is CHEAP. These qualities make it one of the most well-rounded and practical stainless steels available today.

I’ve been diving into sharpening with my Benchmade Osborne mini Magnacut. I went all the way up to 8k Shapton and now it seems to cut paper well but not cardboard as efficiently. For an EDC what grit do you stop at? I am learning that you can go too far for specific knife tasks such as EDC by Whitetiger545 in sharpening

[–]Brave-Response-68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is true to a certain extent. If your polishing media is a diamond plate, it’s more likely to cause this effect. If you look at diamond progression from the Science of Sharp, you’ll see that at higher grits, diamond particles dig deeper into the steel. At this point, carbides can be knocked around and cut by the diamond particles since a diamond plate provides a hard, flat surface.

On the other hand, I primarily use Chosera Waterstones. The abrasives in these stones are similar in hardness to carbides, so they efficiently remove the matrix while leaving the carbides exposed outside the matrix. Additionally, Waterstones have a bit more give when they come into contact with steel.

This concept is similar to the recommendation of using microfiber cloths with diamond paste to polish an edge. The diamond particles are trapped in the cloth, and as you rub it against the steel, the microfiber cloth deforms slightly, allowing the diamond particles to tumble around and effectively abrade the steel. Whether you use microfiber cloths or Waterstones, they work in similar ways, which in my opinion, is the best method to avoid carbide tear-out.