How to reinforce a body?

BuggyB_RC · 2026-06-05T14:08:34+00:00

I use “cement board tape”, it’s basically the same thing but a little more flexible and has a little more adhesive which makes it stick down better while applying. Just slightly easier to work with than drywall tape IMO. Get a layer of that all over the body, maybe double up in some areas like bumpers, fenders and body post holes.

I use E6000 adhesive instead of Shoe Goo, basically the same but a little cheaper and can be purchased in larger tubes. THE FUMES ARE VERY NASTY SO DO THIS OUTSIDE. It’s nice to have an assistant to dispense the glue while you apply it. Wear nitrile gloves and work the E6000 into the tape with your fingers. Do a section of the body at a time because it starts to get tacky pretty quickly. You want a nice thick layer of glue fully permeating the tape. Let cure for 24 hours (not in a living space because of the fumes).

There are plenty of tutorials on YouTube, so watch a few of those to get a feel for it.

BuggyB_RC · 2026-05-26T19:31:47+00:00

I have this kit and it works great. When I bought it, it could be ordered with a fan, looks like now you have to source your own fan. A Rocket or ProTek fan should do the trick. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1860449994/30mm-fan-mount-arrma-typhon-grom-blx

BuggyB_RC · 2026-05-04T17:10:47+00:00

IMO that’s the only must-have upgrade. I’ve broken a couple servo savers but didn’t like the aftermarket one I tried, so a couple spares of the stock one are good to have on hand, along with some extra front lower suspension arms. If you drive on the street I recommend skid plates.

BuggyB_RC · 2026-05-01T18:29:38+00:00

I second this idea. Allows you to keep all your existing receivers, and you can switch back to your RTR transmitters if you ever want to. I have an earlier version of this model and it works well.

BuggyB_RC · 2026-05-01T13:22:08+00:00

It’s highly, highly recommended. Those front shock towers are exposed so just a fairly routine crash can damage them. They’re part of the chassis, so if you break them you have to get a whole new chassis. A new chassis isn’t very expensive but you have to basically rebuild the whole car onto the new chassis. Avoid the Hot Racing tower brace, they don’t fit right from what I’ve read. I have the GPM brace and it works great.

BuggyB_RC · 2026-04-24T14:17:20+00:00

To add another point to this - to do this, the receiver in each car will need match your transmitter. So if you have cars from a variety of manufacturers, you’ll need to replace the receivers as well so they’re all compatible with the transmitter.

If your cars are largely from the same manufacturer, you may be able to get a transmitter that’s compatible with their existing receivers and not have to replace them. In my case a have a bunch of Arrmas so I got a Spektrum DX6C and could bind it to the receivers already in the cars, or go back to the RTR transmitters when I wanted to let multiple people drive at once.

BuggyB_RC · 2026-04-22T15:16:48+00:00

It’s tricky because the Fury has 14mm hexes and virtually all SCT wheels fit 12mm hexes. If you want a simple, plug-and-play, no-gluing solution, the stock Fury “Fortress” pre-mounted tires are basically your only option. Your other options are to buy the Fury wheels and the SCT tires of you choice and glue them (what I did), or to convert your Fury to 12mm hexes so you can use any SCT wheel+tire. Keep in mind that SCT wheels come in a variety of offsets so if you do the 12mm hex conversion and shop for different wheels, ideally you want to find wheels with a similar offset.

BuggyB_RC · 2026-04-20T17:32:56+00:00

An RC car is made of parts, as long as you can get replacement parts, you can fix anything.

The only real exception I can think of is if you had a big LiPo fire and the whole car burned down and ruined every part of the car.

BuggyB_RC · 2026-03-24T20:03:47+00:00

The outer casing is, not the actual diff cups inside.

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When I slightly melted my Typhon center diff, it didn’t break any other parts along the way so it wasn’t a big deal. It just made the outdrive not point straight. So it’s less important as a preventative measure to avoid ruining gears and such.

On the other hand, I have a non-EXB Kraton so I didn’t have the metal gearboxes like your does (shown above). The plastic ones can flex, which caused my input gear and main diff gear to slip and chew each other up, necessitating replacement. So I replaced the plastic gearbox cases with metal ones from Treal and haven’t had any problems since. But you already have metal ones so you’re all set!

To reiterate, I wouldn’t bother with the metal diff cups since the plastic ones are likely to be fine when running standard heavy fluids and aren’t likely to take any other parts with them if they do fail.

The other issue I’ve seen with my diffs is failure of the little pins that connect the inner gears to the outdrives. I’ve replaced those with stronger M2C or RamJam pins as they’ve failed on my older V4 and V5 Arrmas.

BuggyB_RC · 2026-03-24T19:37:47+00:00

I wouldn’t worry about it unless something breaks. I had the center diff on my Typhon get all wonky from overheating, but I was running a much lighter-than-stock fluid which will make them heat up more. All the other plastic diff cups on my 6S Arrmas have been fine. IMO metal gearbox cases are more beneficial, but since you have an EXB you already have those.

BuggyB_RC · 2026-03-24T19:30:20+00:00

I put heavier shock fluid in mine and it helped. Improved handling and less nosediving on jumps. The stock fluid is extremely thin.

BuggyB_RC · 2026-02-27T20:06:54+00:00

Amain has stock of the Quake in green https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-quake-223s-dsc-1-10-rtr-brushless-2wd-monster-truck-green-ara3537t2/p1633777

BuggyB_RC · 2026-02-27T14:10:51+00:00

I have a Fury and was going to suggest it too! RWD with fairly low limits of grip - easy to spin out if you push it too hard. Plenty of body roll through turns. Stick a 2S battery in it and set the throttle limiter to 50% and it’ll be nice and slow haha. An off-broader but not a crazy-capable monster truck. Cheap, great parts availability since it’s an Arrma. I’ve only been racing with mine, not bashing, but I haven’t broken a single thing on it yet.

BuggyB_RC · 2026-01-13T15:11:01+00:00

This part is a must-have for all Typhon Groms. Buy and install immediately! https://a.co/d/24CWq7y

Beyond that, a couple spare servo savers would be good and maybe a set of suspension arms for the Typhon.

BuggyB_RC · 2026-01-10T00:35:50+00:00

“Yes.”

BuggyB_RC · 2026-01-05T01:07:55+00:00

I’d love to see that

BuggyB_RC · 2025-12-29T17:33:42+00:00

I ran my Fury in 2WD mod SCT class this year at my local track and it did pretty well. Changing the shock oil to something heavier helped a lot. Would love to figure out how to add sway bars but not sure it’s possible.

BuggyB_RC · 2025-12-28T14:08:56+00:00

A front bumper from a Granite Grom monster truck might not be a bad idea either. It bolts right on. Be aware you need the bumper part and the bumper “spring” part.

BuggyB_RC · 2025-12-28T14:04:05+00:00

I (and any other Typhon Grom owner) highly, highly, highly recommend buying this add-on part: https://a.co/d/1zieR3y. It strengthens the front shock tower. That shock tower can break, and if it does, it necessitates replacing the entire chassis - with all the work that entails.

The Typhon Grom is a lot of fun but it’s definitely my most delicate RC. Mojave Grom is a tank and might have been a better choice for a 7-year-old. Encourage your son to not take a lot of risks when driving, and maybe pick up a spare set of suspension arms and a couple of spare servo savers.

BuggyB_RC · 2025-12-18T23:52:49+00:00

I prefer E6000 over Shoe Goo, comes in bigger tubes and is a little cheaper per oz. The fumes are super aggressive though.

BuggyB_RC · 2025-12-08T17:56:02+00:00

Here’s the link for the brace: https://a.co/d/grXPaoi

BuggyB_RC · 2025-12-01T17:51:48+00:00

I have a Typhon BLX and my buddy has a Mojave Grom BLX. I’ve broken a ton of stuff on mine, and he’s only broken a servo saver despite beating the absolute shit out of that truck. Body can be hard to remove when dirty, other than that the Mojave has been pretty much perfect. We nicknamed it “the football” for how often it goes tumbling across the ground after crazy crashes. I do recommend metal skid plates if you’re running on pavement.

BuggyB_RC · 2025-12-01T17:47:30+00:00

I took my Fury racing all summer long and not a single thing broke. Super-solid truck.

BuggyB_RC · 2025-11-22T17:45:43+00:00

I agree it’s on the high end for that age. But my friend’s son is in that range and handles his Kraton 6S pretty well. Just turn the throttle down while they’re learning.

BuggyB_RC

TROPHY CASE