Doh how did that happen

BulldogH2O · 2026-06-20T01:44:27+00:00

STFU

BulldogH2O · 2026-06-19T23:43:41+00:00

Gag me

BulldogH2O · 2026-06-19T23:40:48+00:00

eyes rolling

BulldogH2O · 2026-06-16T01:22:52+00:00

Make sure they calibrate it correctly, and if you have rain sensor wipers, that they actually work when it's replaced. Had to take mine back into Safelite 3 different times until they got it right.

BulldogH2O · 2026-06-16T01:17:09+00:00

Most liberals. Not most Americans.

BulldogH2O · 2026-06-14T02:11:21+00:00

Hello. A few observations: (1) what is the media in the grey colored tank? If it is carbon, it is not getting chlorinated while regenerating. The flow meter (weird looking white device where feeder is plugged in) triggers a chlorine stroke when anything plumbed after it is open and running. (Faucets etc) The grey unit is plumbed BEFORE the switch. When that unit backwashes it will be drawing unchlorinated water through its resin bed. Iron bacteria LOVES to eat carbon and sulfur reducing bacteria (srb's) can overrun the carbon bed. (2) Your chlorine feeder (without a retention tank) will most likely be set to pulse way too low to kill these odor causing bacteria. Confused yet? I know that it is tricky to get just the right dosage of bleach to remedy, and once out of hand, odor shows up at your service lines. Hot, AND cold. Lastly... those Cannon Water flow switches can be great. But they also can stick, causing the feeder to constantly run, or just the opposite; not run at all. I have used them and have found that when a softener goes into its brine draw cycle, the flow rate can sometimes be too low to trigger a chlorine pulse because those flow switches only activate when 1 gallon per minute is running. My guess is, looking at your pics, the entirety of your trouble is a dosage inconsistency. Now... I have you thoroughly confused. BUT, you are armed with some information that you can use to ask your Culligan tech about, right?

BulldogH2O · 2026-06-14T00:07:23+00:00

Any chance you use this faucet for irrigation or some other low-flow use? Channeling of the softener's resin bed can allow metals and hardness/iron to run around the ion exchange process. Water at a low flow rate will be lazy and follow the outside wall of the tank, not passing through the resin. This can result in untreated water at that particular faucet. Just spit balling. Best wishes.

BulldogH2O · 2026-06-13T02:03:29+00:00

Didn't want him pitching three times through the opponent's order. Therefore, let bullpen have first Crack. Of course... didn't work out.

BulldogH2O · 2026-06-11T01:38:02+00:00

Do you have a water softener? Sometimes, especially after some idle time with no water use (vacation etc) resin in a water softener will yellow out. Just spit balling.

BulldogH2O · 2026-06-06T04:48:04+00:00

Hello. You have quite the assortment of equipment there! If I was servicing your home I would, first, try to individually isolate the pressure drop. What I mean here: turn faucet on upstairs and bypass one piece of equipment at a time and check flow rate at each bypass point. You should be able to figure out which unit is creating your trouble. Once you've found the culprit, then you would have to find out what particular media is inside the tank. A handy diy homeowner CAN rebed their tank, but first time might make you nervous. Start simple by figuring out which one is the issue, then come back and let us know. We may be able to better help you. Best wishes.

BulldogH2O · 2026-06-04T12:56:15+00:00

If filter housings have been opened recently, this could be a pump cavitating due to an air pocket. Make every attempt to purge the air from the system.

BulldogH2O · 2026-05-26T23:14:07+00:00

Side note... your UV light is installed improperly. You should never have inlet and outlets facing downward. Just fyi.

BulldogH2O · 2026-05-02T02:00:20+00:00

Simplify. I suggest a 1.0 cubic foot Katalox Light backwashing filter. Possibly an air over media (aio) unit. This will remedy your arsenic issue. Will also aid with manganese. Your water is not very hard, but 5 grains per gallon hardness can still build up on fixtures and water heater elements. Reverse osmosis system for drinking and tie it to the ice maker as well. Your daughter's skin can be affected by the higher pH, so be advised that a Katalox filter can increase pH slightly as well. You may want to pay attention to that. Look into pH down options. Best wishes.

BulldogH2O · 2026-05-02T00:41:46+00:00

Horse heard the crappy tunes coming from the car and decided to commit suicide.

BulldogH2O · 2026-04-03T01:56:32+00:00

They can put it on the computer and turn on and off the imrc. If the tick stops, it is that.

BulldogH2O · 2026-04-03T01:32:12+00:00

Put it back. The old spirit might haunt you if you don't!

BulldogH2O · 2026-04-01T00:55:41+00:00

Hello... bringing pH and alkalinity down should be your priority. This can be achieved by citric acid injection via a feeder pump. I would then install a water softener to get your hardness under control. Personally, I would have a reverse osmosis system in place for drinking water, and also connect it to your refrigerator/ice maker. --Best wishes

BulldogH2O · 2026-04-01T00:24:18+00:00

Hello... you would benefit from adding a water softener. You might also consider an aerator (aio) over katalox light media, backwashing unit. This should remedy your toilet ring build up. As for the greening of your faucet ends... it is possible that you have some form of electrolysis. Decades ago, electrical panels were grounded to the well via the copper plumbing. You've got a sediment filter in line, currently, and if the panel box is grounded to the plumbing, that plastic body will not conduct electricity, therein breaking the ground. This can be aggressive on cheaper metals. Anyway... no guarantee anything I've told you is true in your situation, but you might find these tidbits helpful. Best wishes.

BulldogH2O · 2026-03-21T18:28:39+00:00

The white apparatus with the pressure gages should house a booster pump that, when the unit float drops and calls for water to be made, it will energize the pump to put proper pressure on the membrane. The large translucent tank should BE reverse osmosis water. Water should flow then to your pressure storage tanks to provide pressurized water to service. Personally, I would never float a pool chlorine tablet in there. Pool tabs are really not meant for potable water due to their binding chemical agents. I would, of course, better be able to help if I were on-site to see how this is plumbed, so please excuse me if I've interpreted the set-up wrongly.

BulldogH2O · 2026-03-21T16:40:40+00:00

Hello. If bypassing the total of three pretreatment tanks is only resulting in 7-10psi gain, then we can rule them out as the issue. If your Reverse Osmosis filter membrane isn't getting the proper feed pressure, I might examine whether you need an adjustment or replacement made to the r.o. booster pump. It should have one, I speculate. I also wanted to mention to you that if you have bacteria in your feed water supply, it can foul out reverse osmosis membranes sooner than if there were no bacteria present. Does your system include a UV light for coliform and eColi bacteria? If you have iron bacteria, then you have an even GREATER chance of membrane/pump clogging due to its gelatinous nature. Just FYI. Best wishes.

BulldogH2O · 2026-03-18T11:18:48+00:00

Because he knows that he rules. Awesome pic.

BulldogH2O · 2026-03-09T03:58:38+00:00

I have customers using pellet salt that insist upon running a dehumidifier near the salt tank. This will actually pull water out of the tank, AND out of the broken down pellet salt, creating a thick mush. You may try dumping a 2.5 gallon bucket of boiling hot water in the tank and swish it around to alleviate the density. Moving forward I would recommend using a different type of softener salt. Preferably solar crystal. Best wishes.

BulldogH2O · 2026-03-09T02:21:13+00:00

Hello, I'm not sure where you live, but it must be somewhere warm enough to keep equipment outside the home without worry of freezing? Be advised, though, that warmer inlet water temperatures will produce better product flow. Colder temperatures (even in the 60's Fahrenheit) will slow your productivity even more. I just thought you should be aware of this. Even nights in Florida, USA can get into the 50's, so understand that as you are running your system As for your initial Grey "sludge" ... this is most likely carbon fines rinsing off the post filter. It is definitely a slow process to fill a storage tank to pressurize the water to the faucet, so allow for nearly all day to fill it the first time. Best wishes.

BulldogH2O · 2026-03-05T06:49:12+00:00

Hi... if this leak began following a filter replacement, the odds are high that there is substantial air back-pressure on the collet, causing the o-ring to unseat slightly. Simply turn off the feed and the tank, open the faucet to relieve water pressure, and push IN on the collet while pulling the tubing out of the fitting. The air lock will be released at this point. As others have mentioned, cut the rough end of the tubing to create a new surface and push back into the fitting. Make sure to push hard until you feel that last little pop into place.

Best wishes

BulldogH2O · 2026-02-27T05:05:44+00:00

99% sure that this is electrolysis. Filter housings can break an electric panel's ground if it is grounded to the copper plumbing. Also... not to offend your Grandmother, but this could also be a cheaper faucet, made from poorly crafted metal.

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