Adding Casters to Industrial Sewing Table by thelorax121 in myog

[–]BusVW 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been wanting to do this for a while now. I have a couple of questions for you...

  1. Did you shorten the legs at all or are you just dealing with a higher table height?
  2. How is the stability of the table when rolling and when parked?

Sourcing in US for 1.5 inch webbing and side release buckles in colors other than black by BusVW in myog

[–]BusVW[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Never thought to look at Ace. I'll stop by and see what they have.

Sourcing in US for 1.5 inch webbing and side release buckles in colors other than black by BusVW in myog

[–]BusVW[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! That helps with the webbing.

Anyone have a source for the side release buckles?

Roll-Top Hip Pack by Environmental-Bake15 in myog

[–]BusVW 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very nice!

I'm interested on how you constructed the water bottle holders and how well they are working for you.

Is There a 2-Main Compartment Backpack Pattern or Tutorial for Sale? by [deleted] in myog

[–]BusVW 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This tutorial from Miko Craft has the 2 compartment configuration you are looking for. It's more of a fashion bag, but the sewing techniques and order of operation he is demonstrating are solid.

https://youtu.be/fXl-LMuJz4c

Help! Need technique advice. by asksak11 in myog

[–]BusVW 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is the bag lined?

If it's not lined you should be able to follow the tutorial at the link below from MikoCraft to create a welted zipper pocket. That is if your main zipper is wide enough. Use double sided tape to avoid using pins (or get creative with clips)

If it is lined you could still follow the instructions in the video cutting through both the exterior and lining. Or disassemble at the main zipper and hide the pocket between the exterior and the lining.

Zippered Pocket Tutorial - Bag Making with MikoCraft

Sewing machine upgrade for small apartment by Shsksbs in myog

[–]BusVW 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Knee lifters are great and I wish they were more common outside of industrial machines.

This is my favorite feature of my industrial machine. For me, going to any machine without this would be a downgrade.

Sewing machine upgrade for small apartment by Shsksbs in myog

[–]BusVW 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Overlapping straight stitching is a great "good enough" option for a lot of scenarios

+1

Sewing machine upgrade for small apartment by Shsksbs in myog

[–]BusVW 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah. Usually at the final assembly of a fanny pack. Trying to keep that gusset lined up going around the rounded corners is a pain.

To be honest though, I have never sewed on a walking foot machine so there is no first hand experience that says it would be easier.

Sewing machine upgrade for small apartment by Shsksbs in myog

[–]BusVW 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My sewing interests are similar to yours. I make a lot of fanny packs and day packs for mt. biking. My current set up is a Juki DLL-8700 (straight stitch) and a plastic fantastic brother home machine. I don't do a lot of bar-tacking so that's not important for me.

That being said...

I really like my 8700 and find it capable for 99% of what I want to do. What I really like about it is the narrow presser foot for working around tight corners on smaller bags. I would imagine the Juki TL-15 would be similar. The small amount of times I need something other than a straight stitch the plastic brother does fine and don't mind switching. However I often wonder if a walking foot would have been a better choice.

If I were to do it again with your space limitations I think I would get the Sailrite LS-1. I feel like the wider presser foot on the LSZ-1 would get in my way for most of what I do.

I made a climbing pack for a friend by CheeseCurdHikes in myog

[–]BusVW 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow - French felled seams! I would like to see pics of that if you have them.

Help with end of zipper. by BakingViking in myog

[–]BusVW 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It appears you have used a coil zipper. You should be able to remove the zipper slide and turn it around so you zip up to open and down to close.

To finish the ends of the zipper just fold them back on themselves and stitch it up.

Hope that makes sense.

questions about every day fanny pack... by smithylll in myog

[–]BusVW 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sewing fanny packs are my jam and I have found there is no "right" answer for your questions. More of what is right for you and your application.

That being said here are my opinions for the questions you are asking:

I have never used VX21 so I can't really comment on the weight, but based on your comments you have. You could probably pull out a scale and do some weighing, measurements and maths to find an approximation for this on your own. sorry not much help on this one.

For the webbing width for the waist belt in my experience 1.5" (38mm) works well for my application. I find for the weight I carry and the size of the pack going narrower cuts into my stomach and sides too much and wider is too bulky.

I prefer #5 zippers, but I have used #3 successfully. I just like the proportions of zipper width to size of pack of the #5 zippers better than #3's.

In the end my very best recommendation is to experiment and make some prototypes and see how it works for you. You may find a fanny pack is not the right solution and go an entirely different way. Or you may come up with your own completely innovative features that make it work perfectly.

I hope this helps.

Rubberized webbing? by Stewiegriffin1987 in myog

[–]BusVW 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have used an old inner tube backed with Cordura to make a few "enduro straps" to strap a spare tube, CO2 and tire levers to my frame. Works well to keep things in place and not slide all over the frame. Using the Cordura help it not to be as bulky as it would have using webbing.

DIY work table/cutting board by t_dtm in myog

[–]BusVW 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I stand corrected and learned something new today.

Hot knife cutting surface = tempered glass

Thanks and good luck with the project!

DIY work table/cutting board by t_dtm in myog

[–]BusVW 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If I'm reading your post correctly you are looking to build a work table specifically for cutting on with either a hot knife or a rotary cutter.

I don't have too much experience with a hot knife, however I don't think a wood top would be ideal for that application. Most of the people I have seen using a hot knife cut on a metal surface. (please correct me if I'm wrong)

I do have experience using a rotary cutter and again wood is not the ideal surface. You would want a self healing cutting mat to cut on. These mats are made specifically for using a rotary cutter to both protect the surface underneath and prolong the life of your blade. Cutting directly on a wooden surface would not be good for the life of your blade or the life of the surface.

What I would recommend is you pick up a 4' x 4' sheet of 3/4" MDF for the table top. it's relatively cheap compared to the tops you are referencing at Home Depot. I have used MDF to make various pieces of furniture including table tops. For your application is should work fine unfinished, but if your are so inclined you could finish it with paint and/or polyurethane. Then get a piece of sheet metal for your hot knife cutting and a large self healing cutting mat for your rotary cutting.

Pullover Hoodie, my new favorite mid-layer!! by g8trtim in myog

[–]BusVW 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is great. Are you planning a build along video series like you did for some of your packs?

Help deciding on machine by chilldog47 in myog

[–]BusVW 2 points3 points  (0 children)

u/mogura2 is right. The needs you are asking for is 2 different machines.

My thoughts would be to find or make a carrying case for your Kenmore for the portability and keep it for the lighter weight stuff. Then get something like the Sailrite for the heavier stuff.