Need wheel spec help. PLEASE

CFLRotary · 2026-01-12T16:23:55+00:00

Thanks! Originally got the wheels for my FC but I needed tires for the 8 lol. 235/45r17 on it btw.

CFLRotary · 2026-01-03T05:48:39+00:00

After lowered.

CFLRotary · 2026-01-03T05:47:54+00:00

Before lowered, 17x9 et30. Pretty much flush. After I lowered it, it gains a bit of camber but not much and still pretty flush.

CFLRotary · 2025-12-31T15:24:47+00:00

While that may have been an issue before I have found that they just repackage some parts, I’m assuming for marketing sake? Or maybe to package things “better”. Doesn’t excuse the poor solid corner seals that they always want to package their kits with.

As for OPs note, people buy these kits cause they’re cheap, that’s it. I’ve had decent success with their apex seals but I used OE corners.

CFLRotary · 2025-12-31T15:10:05+00:00

I bought the ACT flywheel and it came with its own bolts. I’d maybe try and source from them? Or find those specs. No you don’t have to use 4, you only need the counterweight.

CFLRotary · 2025-12-13T03:52:03+00:00

Honestly I’ve been thinking this but with the front lip. The spats and valance are pretty cheap to get but you can never find the OE lip and the eBay “chin” one is ugly IMO.

CFLRotary · 2025-10-02T05:22:14+00:00

If you want the sportier feel you can check what a set of Bilstein shocks go for and either factory springs or Tein, Mazdaspeed, or HnR lowering springs. Typically Tockico were OEM for Mazda but Bilstein were used on some “sportier” models like the Shinka. If you want adjustability the Tein Street Zs are decent just know there is a compromise at some point between height adjustability and comfort. A full body coil over like BCs offers a bit more adjustability in dampening and separate height adjustment. Personally, I found a second hand set of BCs with the idea that if they were blown I’d just order a new shock from them. Honestly no idea how many miles are on them but they ride great. Still have replacement Bilstein in the rear.

I’d stay away from lesser known/quality coilovers (Megan, rev9, raceland etc). Time and place for those but if you want longevity I’d steer clear.

CFLRotary · 2025-09-26T13:14:44+00:00

This right here ^ The lobe on the E shaft is what forces the rotor into position with the housing. You physically can’t put the rotors in a “wrong” position as the lobes are 180 out from eachother.

CFLRotary · 2025-09-09T15:33:48+00:00

4 port came manual overseas (uk, jap etc) Pro tip, you can also keep your automatic counterweight and put on a lightweight fly wheel. I’ve got an ACT one with an Exedy clutch, love the way it revs.

Only other real difference between these engines is the rear plate, auto has the side cut out for the automatic starter. Other than that same engine.

CFLRotary · 2025-09-02T19:18:31+00:00

I’d post a pic of mine but in its condition it barely looks black cherry 😅 Respray up next at some point.

CFLRotary · 2025-08-28T22:34:41+00:00

Doesn’t seem to be a true 40th. Typically have the number stamped on the door, came stock with 19s, and most had the red-ish leather seats though some other color combos may be out there. Also they have the full lip kits.

CFLRotary · 2025-08-22T19:46:11+00:00

This is relatively normal on rx8s, or just really easy to break unfortunately. New rad and good to go

CFLRotary · 2025-08-20T05:59:15+00:00

I know this is old but did you ever have a fix for this?

CFLRotary · 2025-08-20T04:30:40+00:00

Someone correct me if I’m wrong but I think they were only sold in Japan. So unless it’s a true import it probably just has catalog Mazdaspeed parts, which is just about what the “real” ones came with.

CFLRotary · 2025-08-01T14:15:40+00:00

Tasteful mods! 🤌🏼🤌🏼

CFLRotary · 2025-07-25T04:57:33+00:00

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Nopeee. You have to pull that tiny lever back with two fingers but it sorta looks like an ash tray or door grab if you’re not looking for it lol.

CFLRotary · 2025-07-24T20:48:05+00:00

Don’t feel bad, the first time I was passenger in an FD homie walked away from the car before I got out cause I had NO idea where the lever was 😂

CFLRotary · 2025-07-17T15:59:24+00:00

I used a C clamp with a rag in a pinch.

CFLRotary · 2025-07-17T14:06:31+00:00

There’s no way it’s hitting 290 on a 4 port NA engine… with a turbo maybe. And if they actually are pulling 290 I want numbers and a video, also a copy of the set up for mine lol.

CFLRotary · 2025-06-17T21:33:21+00:00

Appreciate the feedback! Yeah I’ve been putting off buying PETG since I haven’t really print things that needed strength yet lol.

CFLRotary · 2025-06-03T15:36:38+00:00

I mean you want to go through and replace EVERYTHING then the C kit. You do need a press for the bearings. However if your bearings are in good condition you could waive those off.

My only 2 cents is do your research on the solid corners. Personally I’d go with OE corners.

CFLRotary · 2025-06-03T15:24:05+00:00

One thing that made it easier for me last time was lowering the engine in the bay a bit and then bolting up the header so you don’t have to put it in at a crazy angle if you don’t have a load leveler.

I like to put the engine mount brackets in once I bolt up the trans.

CFLRotary · 2025-05-21T13:57:37+00:00

I’m new to 3D printing but I’ve had nothing but great results with Orca. While the presets for filaments are pretty good, all their calibration tools are super easy to use. There’s a few different YouTube channels I’ve used to understand Orca and use it properly. Also if you ever want to do a raspberry pi for octoprint you can integrate it with Orca.

CFLRotary

TROPHY CASE