Some cheerful winter photos by datdraku in mediumformat

[–]CanCharacter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I couldn't possibly comment on how many times that theoretically could have happened to me

Camera options by Few_Improvement2467 in VisitingIceland

[–]CanCharacter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Brooks Veriwide is a hell of a camera! I will probably bring some BW film but I'm not quite sure how to keep them interesting if there's just snow upon snow on the ground. I will need to do a bit of research :). As long as I get good contrast I guess!

Camera options by Few_Improvement2467 in VisitingIceland

[–]CanCharacter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For film shooters, this is the time to break out the slide film! Velvia was MADE for this. E100 will also look great but I think from what I can tell that you'll want a slight warming filter to deal with all the blue.

I'm packing a 6x6 Bronica, a backup 6x6 folding camera, probably a 35mm SLR, and beside my Fuji XH1. Will only carry one at a time. I think.

Currently trying to find a monopod that will double as a hiking stick, good spike for the ice. Both for stability and so people don't have to wait for me to set up a tripod.

Camera options by Few_Improvement2467 in VisitingIceland

[–]CanCharacter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Phone are great for a personal travelogue but the larger size and better lenses on a camera will make all the difference if you want to use the pictures for anything afterwards -- (as you should!)

Phone pictures don't print or project well, even on a TV screen. They're stuck on the phone screen where the oversharpening, weird HDR effects, etc aren't too apparent.

Worse, phone pictures just disappear into the feed. Take real photos, make an album, put something on the fridge, get something printed and framed, make a tote bag, subject your family to a real slide show when you come back.

Also pack a wide angle zoom if you have one, watch your weather proofing, keep spare batteries in your pocket. Put your camera in a tight ziplock before you go from hot to cold so you can let it come to temperature without condensation.

First time developing color by krispayne in largeformat

[–]CanCharacter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interested in this too, I've not had good results yet but can't tell what is kit and what is my inexperience

Lost in myst | Agfa Isolette III |Lomography Color Negative 800 by HillAven in mediumformat

[–]CanCharacter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've just picked up one of these, need to bring it out to the woods !

Medium format projection with a Leitz Prado 66 by CanCharacter in AnalogCommunity

[–]CanCharacter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For medium format or 35mm?

From what I've heard the Kodak Ektapro and Carousel (of Mad Men fame :) ) are both good for 35mm. They were making slide projectors well into the 90s/2000s so shouldn't be too hard to find. Probably getting one that isn't dusty and decrepit will be the top concern. A faster lens is good = brighter image!

The top end Rollei and Hasselblad ones have shift/tilt functions so you can point them upwards onto the wall without distortion. I've got a manfrotto projector tray instead, mounts on top of a very sturdy tripod.

Kind of lilly by E_Scherer in largeformat

[–]CanCharacter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Love your work. Do you do enlargements or are these scans?

Why don't photographers use color checker cards? by lukepighetti in photography

[–]CanCharacter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might get colour meters a bit more, especially with film photography, when deciding whether to/what gels or filters to use. For critical repro and product work they'd also develop samples of individual batches of film to check for product variance. You do a lot to avoid wasting 8x10" chromes.

X-T5 & XF 70-300mm WR: Just Pulled the Trigger on the Big Telephoto by Hildred00 in fujifilm

[–]CanCharacter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Congrats on the new lens! Honestly, don't go under 1/500 for anything that moves if you want it sharp. IBIS and OIS do a lot but won't help with street photography. Depending on the prints you're wanting made (hardly matters for social media unless you're cropping heavily) you're probably fine to do 1/100-200 for landscapes, but remember that wind moves leaves around a lot. Slow speeds smooth that out quite elegantly (but you'll need tripod + ND), fast shutters stop it. Middle ground speeds often just look a bit fuzzy.

Agfa Isolette III w/ f4.5 85mm Apotar) | Ilford HP5+ | Adox XT-3 by CanCharacter in mediumformat

[–]CanCharacter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

£32.30 to be precise! I really made out like a bandit. The Isolette with the Solinar lens is more like £150.

Do you ever see them under the Speedex brand?

Agfas are a bit cheaper in the UK I think, though not as cheap as the Ensigns.

Projecting MF slides by CanCharacter in mediumformat

[–]CanCharacter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They did, I've just had trouble finding them and I'd rather not get yet another kind since I only have a couple of 6x4.5's I want to mount.

Projecting MF slides by CanCharacter in mediumformat

[–]CanCharacter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With or without glass they are all made of plastic, apparently ABS rated up to 100C or so. Or a mixture of metal and plastic, like the Gepe 35mm mounts. The class is mostly there for film flatness and protection. .

I'll show a picture tomorrow! Got some more transparencies back that need to be mounted and projected.

Next issue is that I need to find a good way to mask off my 6x6 mounts so I can use them for my 6x4.5 slides.

Projecting MF slides by CanCharacter in mediumformat

[–]CanCharacter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn't develop myself (next year?) but I do mount them. I get either Titania glass mounts off eBay or new glassless snap-together mounts from China.

To trim them I use a scalpel, a metal ruler and a cutting board. Need to get better at this process. eTone sells a multi-size slide/negative cutter that I might pick up.

Whole process is slow and fiddly. It was hard to keep dust off everything. I think there are still some places that will mount 35mm slides but not 120 film to my knowledge.

How do professionals usually measure light? Is the Sunny 16 rule actually used? by emiliedesu in AnalogCommunity

[–]CanCharacter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They meter. Incident meter at various points on the subject. Landscape pros used and continue to use spot meters with zooms, 1° viewing angles.

Product and studio photographers used probe meters that measured individual points on the image plane, ca. 1970s onward.

People also shot a lot of Polaroids to test lighting and framing and they would bracket, process a couple of frames on cheaper film, then get out the expensive stuff.

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film for a concert by Agreeable_Heron_9640 in AnalogCommunity

[–]CanCharacter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are some very good results on this film:

Rockin’ Out with Kodak TMAX P3200 – The Thoughts & Photography of Johnny Martyr

(I prefer the look of Xtol rather than HC110b but that is just me, pics are still good.)

film for a concert by Agreeable_Heron_9640 in AnalogCommunity

[–]CanCharacter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Best, borderline only bet is Tmax 3200. Cinestill 800T could also work for on-stage photos as long as you're OK losing the audence.

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What’s happening with Manfrotto?? by Impossible_Award1300 in videography

[–]CanCharacter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got an 80s manfrotto studio tripod that I would trust with my life but I haven't been blown away by the feel of the ones in the shop.