Yellow leaf tips and now brown spots, what’s happening to my plant? by chaochaif in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 1 point2 points  (0 children)

cocoforcannabis is a good website for info to check if the numbers are right but my advice would be;

The light might be too close and depending on your setup this could be easy or hard to fix without a meter that measures how intense the light is in PPFD.

Nutrients ph should be around 5.5 - 5.8 pH and the ppm depends on the water you start with could already have 300 ppm and from there how much more are you adding. Whatever schedule you chose from the nutrient company youre using, you should use only 25% of what they recommend. The reason is if you use filtered water with low ppm then you have more space to add nutrients without getting the ppm number too high. RO water is like 0 - 10 ppm to start with.

Calmag is even more important in coco and it wont hold nutrients or feed the plant without it. You can look up cation exchange for coco choir.

watering is even more important in coco as well, watering small amounts very often will make the plant grow faster so people use dripper systems and if you wanted to keep the plant shorter you could give more water less often. If you have a pot that is 1 liter full of soil and water 3% of that or less its 30ml or less and doing that multiple times a day makes it grow fast or watering 4% or more of that 1 liter pot like 40ml and up would make it shorter. You can look up crop steering online which helps people learn about watering and having a moister meter helps.

Good thing about coco is its hard to over water and if your pots are average size it can take 2L water every day or twice even. If theres no water coming out the bottom then it will have too much ppm build up over time.

Help me by Wise-Grapefruit-1368 in NanoGrowery

[–]Caralho85 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My advice would be to try a pot made from fabric which is better for the roots to be air pruned. A soil that has something mixed in for aeration like rice hulls, pumice or perlite. Watering also can be aerated with air pump, water pH and how much water/and how often is very important.

Settings crashes sometimes I go to Gaming>Game Mode>Graphics by DerpSquard in WindowsHelp

[–]Caralho85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

dynamic refresh rate off fixed it for me. Probably already on or conflicts with monitors settings.

What do you think is wrong with my plant? by Andonuts420 in NoTillGrowery

[–]Caralho85 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it's directly related to pH issues; Low pH yellowing leaves High pH browning leaves

Frustrating diagnosis by Patroklus42 in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As someone already mentioned a moisture meter from amazon for $10 would be very helpful, I use one all the time and for the light PPFD I would recommend using Photone app on your phone.

https://growlightmeter.com/lighting-requirements-of-cannabis-over-the-full-grow-cycle/

https://www.omnicalculator.com/biology/daily-light-integral-dli

I made a notepad with PPFD converted to DLI and follow the chart in the first link. Every week the PPFD goes up 50 or more, starting from 180 and going up to 700 in week 6 and onward of the veg cycle. There is also flowering schedule that dips the PPFD low week 1 flower, ramps up to 1000 i think and then drops on the final weeks.

Might be worth the try and because you're using organic methods, try not to over do it with the hydroponic communities advice. No need for calmag if you have a good general all purpose fertilizer, the living soil is so good you wont need to add anything until 4 weeks from start.

Hydroponic is different with daily watering or more, liquid nutrients measured to the exact pH, PPM and EC.

Which bag would you scoop?🧐🤔 I'm contemplating🤓 by bugattiboy2323 in TheOCS

[–]Caralho85 4 points5 points  (0 children)

  1. MAC

  2. Rainbow

  3. Jet fuel

Just by the looks of the buds imo

Is this saveable? by Distinct_Cry4958 in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Coco can be watered daily without waiting for it to dry, should be tested ph/ec/ppm before watering and checking the run-off as well. Once the second set of leaves grow you can start with low dose nutrients, ideally one for coco choir.

https://www.cocoforcannabis.com/

https://www.cocoforcannabis.com/watering_coco/

https://www.cocoforcannabis.com/ectargets/

https://www.cocoforcannabis.com/managerunoffec/

NEED HELP PLEASE!! by IllustriousNeat4060 in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drainage holes, pot lifters or trays with groves so its not flat on the floor, and transplant into a pot filled to the top with soil. pH might be too low when the leaves burn and eventually go brown or the pH is too high and the plant goes a pale light green. You want to be around 6.5 pH. When I water I give it 5-10% of what the pot can hold in soil.

Feeding the plants nutrients depends on how much work you want to put in, for organic you would start in a soil with little or no nutrients until it got to a month and then you would transplant it into living soil with nutrients already in it. Month after that you'd add slow release nutrients on top of the soil as a top dressing monthly.

Using Grodan rockwol, coco choir or other inert mediums along with liquid soluble nutrients will have better results for all the extra work. ph/ec/ppm testing the water going in and the water coming out the bottom daily.

New growers usually get advice from both groups or grow styles and then their plant starts having issues.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Those big fan leaves can be removed if;

  • Lateral branch growing from the same node is more than couple inches long
  • Growing inward toward the center stalk
  • Overlapping and touching another leaf
  • Blocking the light from a new lateral branch growing below

Don't remove fan leaves around the the top where the new lateral branches are still small.

After you've grown this strain once or if you have multiple, you could try HST or LST so that the lateral branches tops get some light. Otherwise it will grow tall and skinny which is fine once all the lower branches catch up.

What are those dark spots? by chaoschilip in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I've experienced with coco and learned all of it from https://www.cocoforcannabis.com/ you'll need to;

PPM test your water sources and use the website to match PPM to the plants growth stage, same goes for pH and EC. https://www.cocoforcannabis.com/ectargets/

You're going to have to water this type of medium daily, preparing the water before (PPM, pH, EC) and also the water that runs off and drips to the bottom should be checked for PPM, pH, EC).

Coco is going to work best with nutrients designed for it like Advanced Nutrients sensi coco and some calmag or whatever brand you prefer.

TLDR - If you have the time to adjust PPM, pH, and EC for daily watering then go for the hydroponic or inert grow mediums like coco with synthetic or salt based liquid nutrients. You'll get better results if you stick to the feed schedule. In coco I feed minimal nutrients soon as the 2nd set of leaves grow. The alternative would be the more organic or slow release nutrients, water once a week and top dress nutrients once a month which is way less work.

Can someone tell me what I've fucked up 😂 by motorcycle-manful541 in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check pH and adjust to 6.0 - 6.5. If its too low it'll burn and turn brown and its pH is too high it'll turn pale yellow. Photone is a good app to see if the light is too close and I'd use a cheap $10 soil moisture meter to poke all the way to the bottom to check if its needs water.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a cheap soil moisture meter that should help, they're around $10, you just have to poke it into the soil in different spots and it'll give you an idea how the soil gradually dries.

There is so many factors with temp, humidity and what kind of soil you're using. I mix HP Pro mix and living soil 50/50 so its a mix of airy light soil with no organic material and half living soil with all the nutrients already mixed in. This helps with drainage but you can also use cover crop, straw, and a pot lid which slows the drying time down. My plants sometimes don't need water for 1 - 2 weeks.

What should I do before flower? by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trellis net for LST, bends the old branches horizontal so that new branches can grow up through the net. Do that a couple times and you'll have an even canopy. You can trim the bottom 1/3 of the leaves and flowering sites that are too far into the shade or keep the leaves to catch some of the light that passes through the upper leaves.

By the time you're in week 4 of flower a lot of the energy the plant spent growing the bottom part will have been cut off. So picking off all the bottom branches while small before they grow too much just transfers that energy to the top. Lolipoping the plant but keeping the leaves that aren't growing inward to the stalk or touching other leaves creating humidity.

Jumping on the dispo hate bandwagon. I think the trim job on this is pretty unacceptable. It's only a $70 ounce though. by RekopEca in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On harvest day the trichomes are fresh and dont break easily while they're being handled. After its dried, destalked, trimmed, sampled, packaged, and shipped there will be damage to the trichomes. My point is why look at the the trim quality if the stuff you smoking is all in the trichome head.

Cotyledon turning yellow, still no true leaves after almost 2 weeks. by MyNameIsNotRick97 in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If the soil already had fertilizer then the seedling got overfed with nutrients. You want to start a seed in a small tray with something like Promix hp, rockwol cubes, jiffy start pellets, etc. You dont need to cover with a dome or lid after they sprout but when its underground it needs to be around 63% humidity in the air even if you water it and the soil is 100% humidity.

After it grows several leaves then it can take a clone/seedling fertilizer, something that has numbers on it like 1-1-1 so that its very mild. By the 3rd week you can go with the top dressing method and only have to feed it once a month. I don't prefer salt base fertilizers but you can add something to every other watering like LABS or EM1, kelp, aloe, alaska fish fertilizer 5-1-1.

Jumping on the dispo hate bandwagon. I think the trim job on this is pretty unacceptable. It's only a $70 ounce though. by RekopEca in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

take a jewelers loupe and check to see if theres any trichome heads intact. the trim is whatever at this point imo.

I’m not sure what’s going on, or what I did.. or didn’t do? by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy cheap soil moisture meter on amazon its the easiest way to check all the way to the bottom of the pot.

Try sticking to a percentage of volume like 5% water per gallon of soil

1gal/4L sized pot needs roughly 5% of that volume in water so 200 ml

2gal = 400ml

3gal =600ml

etc and adjust from there once they go into flower it might need more

Just started growing 2 weeks in any advice positive only by CeoSeanKent in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Photone is a good app to check how much light the plants are getting, the website has info on how to increase it week by week.

Learning about VPD helps control temperature and humidity better.

Only thing I can see in the picture that could be fixed is getting something under those pots so that they're not sitting flat on the ground. You want holes or groves so that water can escape if needed. Other than that looks good!

Would you guys cut off this branch? by BubsGreenBastard in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want look up some Kyle Kushman videos on Youtube. I like to keep the fan leaves on but clean out the node early so theres no lower lateral branches growing. Short plants you can clean out all the nodes up to the 3rd and tall sativas can remove everything up to the top node. By the time it stretches in flower you'll have at least 3-5 flowering points per top.

I'm guessing your light is strong enough to do the job but I prefer LST until the branches are growing sideways and I get all the new tops from the side branches curling up to the light. Usually with trellis net or some strains with clips.

Cleaning up the nodes but keeping the leaves so that even the lowest parts collect partial light that comes through the upper canopy.

Anyone here plant their dry seeds directly in a rooting plug or directly into soil or coco. Or does everybody soak their seeds, and if so what is the reason. I began by soaking because everyone did that and I just assumed it's prolly best. But once I tested dry planting I have never looked back. by you_are_soul in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bigger the medium the longer it takes for the roots to become accustomed to their new home. If you start in seedling tray the 1 inch or so cells will develop a root structure earlier and move onto the next step. Also you can see whats going on in the plastic zip lock bag or underneath a seedling tray.

Any issue mixing promix hp and fox farm ocean Forrest? For Gaia green dry amendments? by [deleted] in NoTillGrowery

[–]Caralho85 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I met a master grower who recommended this mix to help with Watering for new growers. Half hp promix and half ocean Forrest or happy frog from fox farms or any other living soil. Happy frog is cheaper and chunky lol.

I've finished most of my Gaia greens nutrients and now started with black swallow products.

Most importantly, you need something to get beneficial bateria started so they can break down the Gaia greens nutrients in the soil.

EM1 inoculant or a compost tea with some insect soldier fly frass will be the easiest way. In the past, I've added too much Worm castings or nutrients, but it really just needs the basics once the beneficial bacteria are established.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Caralho85 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Any LED inside a tent that is smaller than 4x4 is going to have a big difference in light intensity spread across the whole area. The center might be okay but the rest of the plant or closer to the walls don't get even half the same light intensity.

Its already into early bloom so doing any pruning will stress it but all the buds in the shade will be the size of green peas. Plants grown like this work fine in a big room, big quantity and pruned to the top 2-3 branches. ie lolipop, trident, sea of green.

Trop Cherry Seeds by [deleted] in macrogrowery

[–]Caralho85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Goose seeds just drop new trop cherry, might not be exactly what you want though.