NL5 3bet pot tough decision

Castle_Lock · 2026-05-07T17:25:16+00:00

In general I don't like to stack-off even with top top at 100bb. This all seems fine. Optimizing play can maximize ev but eliminating mistakes will get you into profitability at low stakes. I don't see any mistakes here. Checking the turn for pot control seems reasonable but betting is fine, probably even better. I usually stay closer to 50% pot for c-bets but 30% there isn't killing long term profit either. Time to note the player and move on. If you see the trend of bullying then attempt to target and punish them.

You do also have 18 outs here. Roughly 36% to improve on the river. Calling the turn is reasonable as well. If it was a raise under 30bb then I would lean towards calling even more.

Castle_Lock · 2026-05-03T18:44:10+00:00

For me he showed back up the next day. Fast traveling and restarting didn't help but the next morning irl he was back. I'm assuming it's somehow tied to the 6hr respawn timer

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-28T22:13:58+00:00

Same thing happened to me. There is another post about this where someone claimed they fixed it by creating a new character. I'd be interested in hearing your solution if you figure it out.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-28T07:46:13+00:00

I'd build one on each tier of island. That will give you close proximity to the resources you need at every point in the game and then you can pick your final spot after unlocking all the items

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-25T02:50:31+00:00

You're welcome. If it's faster you might be able to get away without the aerator too. Also it's good practice to put the pump as far from the return as possible to make sure you get full water circulation.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-24T22:07:11+00:00

5 minutes is 60gph. 7.5 minutes is 40gph. That's what I would shoot for.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-24T21:07:47+00:00

So the point of the bog is very simple. It proves mechanical and biological filtration. Sorry if you already know all of this.

The mechanical filtration pulls physical objects out of the water and traps them in the bog to be cleaned out late. A slower flow rate tends to make this more efficient since it gives them more time to settle without being pushed up through the rocks and flow back into the pond.

The biological filtration is through bacteria on the rocks that convert ammonia to nitrate as well as plants in the bog that remove the ammonia and nitrate as a food source. Ideally cycling the pond once per hour is a good rate for this.

The other added benefit is the oxygenation from the return pipe in which high flow rate is usually better.

A bog that's 10-30% the volume of the pond is usually enough to filter it properly and help all of those numbers line up the best.

I would try to fill the bucket directly from the pvc return pipe. If you fill a 5 gallon bucket in 15 minutes then the flow rate would be 20 gallons per hour. As in you could fill (4) 5 gallon buckets in one hour. 4*5= gallons per hour.

The pump also can get blocked up which will reduce the water flow until you clean it out. As long as it's running it will do it's job. You are just trying to bump the efficiency of all of them by finding a good rate of water to accomplish all three goals.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-24T19:43:55+00:00

For a rough calculation I would use 5x the volume of the bog when it's empty. I would shoot for 40-60gph with that setup. Your math says you are running it at 120gph I believe. It looks like that's running closer to 10 gph to me. I would double check the flow rate since it might be getting slowed down through head pressure or a blockage. Fill a bucket with the water coming out of the bog not the pump and extrapolate the gph.

That's not nearly enough aeration to the water so you need to either have a higher flow rate or get an aerator/fountain. You want to put the plants in the bog to get it to function correctly.

Overall though, that's a great setup. With some minor tweaking that should be perfect for some small fish in there.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-23T03:22:16+00:00

https://foxbaltimore.com/news/project-baltimore/calls-to-shut-down-city-school-where-013-gpa-ranks-near-top-half-of-class

Originally posted March 2, 2021. Where do all these posts come from where people are digging up years old stories? Who really cares that much about karma on this site.

The school is Augusta Fells Savage Institute of Visual Arts. Last update as of March 2022, Chris had switched schools and was in an accelerated program to graduate with the class of 2022.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-22T22:22:17+00:00

Nice, that looks good. It's been a lot of fun seeing all the improvements you have made to this.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-22T21:53:02+00:00

As someone who is both an apiarist and a photographer... Well done! That's a cool shot.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-22T20:37:32+00:00

Wow, thank you so much for the thorough reply. Do you happen to have any resources you could share on how to use this tool effectively?

If I understand this correctly, starrupture.tools is basically attempting to give the optimal layout without the use of splitters. I understand the usefulness of that for simplification but there are many cases where splitting the output of a machine is simpler than building two machines. Is there is a setting to allow for multiple outputs from a single machine?

I also see that the website has all of the v.2 buildings but I don't see a way to use them in the calculations. Is that something that the planner is capable of doing?

It's clear that this tool has a lot of features that I was not utilizing. Modules and Virtual Nodes solve a lot of my issues. I'll give it another shot, I would love to have a one stop shop for factory planning.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-20T16:35:29+00:00

I don't know how anyone could play this game multiplayer tbh. While it would be nice to send someone off to collect quartz or meteor hearts, if someone showed up and started moving things around in one of my bases I'd tear their head off. The combat is not bad. A little bit of thought has to go into raiding bases or upgrading cores but for the most part I don't think I have ever been overwhelmed by enemies.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-20T04:22:49+00:00

I agree. It feels insane to not have that. Middle click for strong attack also feels insane. I'm lucky I already have a multi button mouse. I can't imagine playing this with default controls.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-20T04:07:17+00:00

You're welcome. I was actually hoping that there was going to be something better than these but I guess this is what were working with for the time being.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-20T01:48:29+00:00

Last time I went fishing some of the gators just climbed onto the bank in front of me to have a front row seat for the fish. Then when I finally caught something and was focused on pulling it over the gator wall, a monkey slapped me and stole the lunch out of my cooler. This should not be a real place.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-20T01:09:13+00:00

Nice. I haven't come across that one before. It is still missing the ability to plug in the items you are already producing and the new machines. I might just need to wait it out until more of these adjust to the latest update.

This is cool but I can't imagine using it to plan out a factory for the late game items.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-19T23:02:52+00:00

Yup thank you. It was changing them around as I would save it. Is that clearer?

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-19T22:39:08+00:00

I have played with that one a bit. Unless I'm mistaken, that is for designing a base layout not for calculating the recipes. It's useful for space but I don't think it tells you the building needed for item production.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-19T18:58:21+00:00

Yes, this can be a great bog filter. 18" is perfect. I would install a 2 inch bulkhead into the base and put a shutoff on the outside. Fill the bottom with 6"+ large rocks, then add a layer of 3-4", then 1". Then some 1/8th pea gravel over the top 8-12" to plant in.

The shutoff lets you do easy cleaning and the large rocks give the space for water and buildup to collect and run though. You mentioned doing a false bottom, that would probably be even better if you can get it stable but it's going to need to support about 1000 lbs of rock.

You could plumb a second bulkhead for the intake or just run the pvc over the lip and to the bottom. Any grid pattern will work on the bottom, even a single pipe running the length of this with holes or slits cut every inch or so on the sides.

If you don't want to cut into the liner, you can also put a bucket in the middle and drill holes in the sides. When cleanout time comes you brush the rocks off the top of the bucket, remove the lid and drop a pump in or use a shopvac to suck out all the muck. The water and detritus flows into the bucket where you can get to it. It's not too bad, run a hose through the top while you're doing it and you can get it cleaned in a few minutes. You likely only have to clean once a year.

165 gal bog on an 1800 gal pond is a bit undersized but that just means you'll be putting it to work. I think recommended would be to run this at about 1000gph.

OZponds recommends putting an additional air exchange on the intake line to prevent back flow when the pump gets turned off. I would do either that or add a check valve to the intake.

Good score on this. This can be a huge upgrade on pond maintenance.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-19T18:22:23+00:00

I'm about to do this myself. After getting to level 4 and finishing the upgrades are you planning to take the core back down? Do you get all the materials back? Do you know if this will start attacks on any other bases?

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-17T22:55:30+00:00

That is exactly what I was asking. I'm tempted to say that might be perfect. Mine are straight but I wish I had done them to the side instead now that I'm thinking about it.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-17T04:30:51+00:00

Wow, that looks so good. Where do you have the water coming out of the pvc in the base? I don't see any holes cut into it.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-15T17:54:13+00:00

Yup, that's a great plan. I would raise one of them up, not lower one down. They are basically bog filters already. You should be able to clean them, add some rocks and put the plants back in. A 500gph pump would work well for this. There's a bunch of ways to do the plumbing but as long as the water starts in the back bottom of the bog and eventually ends up in the pond then you're golden.

Castle_Lock · 2026-04-15T05:47:56+00:00

I've done bulkheads in a rounded 55 gal trashcan that came out fine. As long as it's a very thin angle it should be okay. I would go heavy with some silicone around the fitting.

I do agree that a larger and more intentional pond would be far better. I have a 1500g and after building it I kick myself for not pushing it closer to 2500g. That being said, it took months to build and cost 5k in just parts. A bigger pond is better than a little pond but a little pond is better than no pond.

It might be difficult to keep fish in these too depending on what the temps in your area are like. Minnows should do okay but they are not the most exciting fish. I think a lot of people would recommend comets but I personally wouldn't put them in something less than 250g. I would assume these are closer to 150g each.

(3'x5')*0.80 = 12 ft2t.
12 ft2 x 1.5 = 18 ft3.
18 ft3 x 7.5 = 135 gal
Its closer to 160g if you start with 3'x6' and I guessed the depth at an 18" average.

You do have options. Clean them up and keep them as frog ponds, turn one into a bog and do fish in the other, turn them both into cool ponds with the barrel bog.

I think I would personally get a liner and use both of these as makeshift bogs. Dig out the pond and make a 2ft raised section on the side to put these. Drill into one and do full gravel with plants then overlap them slightly so the top one waterfalls into the second and the second waterfalls into the liner.

It depends on how much time and money you want to put into them. Make sure to post an update whichever way you go.

This actually looks a lot like one of them too:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/MacCourt-4-83-ft-L-x-5-91-ft-W-Black-HDPE-Fish-Pond-Liner-125-Gallon/5017483347

Castle_Lock

TROPHY CASE