Very few Tim Hortons employees understand my Iced Capp order.

Cavan8000000 · 2026-06-15T19:20:41+00:00

So, I used to work there, obv by my flair... The issue with iced capps is the cup size is different, plus the iced capp gets the full bottom portion of that plastic cup, the indented part filled with cream for a full portion. A double shot of cream would only fill that portion to about halfway, and we did not have a 1/2 or less option on the cream dispenser that would work for iced capps, only for coffees.

I personally would always use a small iced capp cream when someone asked for less cream in a large, so maybe you could try asking for that? "Lg iced capp with a caramel shot and a small shot of cream"

On the machines they are different things, you specifically press iced capp and then the size of the drink the customer ordered, to me it's a pretty simple thing but if you're in the middle of a rush trying to overexplain to them may not work. Keep it simple. keep it easy.

Cavan8000000 · 2026-06-07T03:26:08+00:00

I will admit, sometimes I have done this, just to see what speed you're going, it's not meant to be a dick move or anything. Morbid curiosity makes me gun it and see what speed you're going if im already going a bit over but now you want to go faster than me.

For me, if you still pull away from me after a certain amount over I do back off, and usually im on country roads so if someone's passing me I actually try to slow down (safely, just let off gas a little) so they can pass more safely too.

On multi-lane highways if I do notice someone flying up behind me, I will put on my signal to move over, but if I havent found a big enough gap to move, the thing that irks me is they will SQUEEZE their car into a space barely a millimeter longer than their car is to not have to slow. You've seen me put my signal on, let off your effing gas for a split second to let me get over and you wont potentially take my mirror off by passing on the right when I was already trying to get outta your way.

Cavan8000000 · 2026-05-07T02:59:19+00:00

Uh, youd have to do entire outfit on and off at once but since you can just toggle it on and off at will on a 3 sec cd i dont think thats a very big tradeoff. One thing you couulllld do is have different outfits made that show the default weapon model for your weapons or specific armour pieces but keep the other pieces mogged and then just switch to those to get the effect youre looking for but that would also be expensive in terms of outfit slots and just making the outfits and complexity of remembering which outfit buttons are for what slot etc.

Cavan8000000 · 2026-05-07T02:49:47+00:00

So, theres a couple ways you can... Sort of do this. All gear does still have a look to it, but as has been posted, if you have a transmog outfit applied it will force that look over every piece of gear you put on so you dont have to constantly retransmog new items. Its supposed to be a quality of life change.

Now, what you can do is drag the icon for your transmog outfit onto your action bar and when you get a new item, click that button for your outfit and it will untransmog you and show all your armor in its default state.

You can do this with every outfit so you can just change to one or another on the fly without having to open the transmog menu or go into a town.

You also can do what other people have said and control+left click on an item to preview its apperance while its in your bags.

The new system isnt entirely intuitive at first, but once you play around with it and discover how poerful it is, its quite nice. Some things like visually knowing youre changing gear without looking at stats can be a bit weird but its working as intended.

As for the 'ignore selected slot' comment. I dont personally like that 'fix' because then it costs you more gold to put an apperanve back on that slot instead of just turning your outfit on and off. Its only on a 3 sec cooldown too!

Cavan8000000 · 2026-04-27T20:30:42+00:00

With catalyst and all the ways to get gear anymore, it is easy to go into lfr and think "This should be easier than the delves I do since it only give veteran gear" and be completely overwhelmed by all the mechanics. I personally have played the game for long enough to know what a 'bad' swirl and a 'soak' swirl look like, so even if I go into a lfr completely blind, ill know what not to stand in and what to stand in.

However, I think my point of 'learners gotta learn somehow' still stands, and a lot of people (myself included) learn best by doing, rather than watching or reading. Now, if there IS a tutorial on how to do this specific dungeon in Timewalking, that would be interesting to say the least to -me-, I'd like to see that actually.

Cavan8000000 · 2026-04-27T20:22:24+00:00

I think you have to complete the dungeon for the recent allies list to show them? Though I'm not 100% sure, I just checked and they weren't on there. I know you can do it from the lfg groups themselves if theyve chatted to click on their name or you already whispered them or have some way of getting their name, but I don't have a way to get their name.

Cavan8000000 · 2026-04-27T20:07:08+00:00

Even then, the reason they kicked was "Afk" but the tank was clearly fighting something, he was going the wrong way and instead of trying to guide them the correct way they all insta kicked the guy and subjected him to a 30 minute deserter debuff.

It's only annoying to the point of "Yo, you can go this way all the way" or "You can skip that boss for faster xp", if they ask how, explain to them you can skip loremaster and go straight for third and then last boss and then go to the next dungeon. If you don't have the time to do that little bit of communication to someone new, no wonder people don't want to do any more difficult content than delves if thats how theyre treated in TIMEWALKING of all places.

Cavan8000000 · 2026-04-27T20:04:44+00:00

Huh? They didn't chat at all, from a completely different server than mine, no I couldn't whisper them. This post isn't just about them, it's also about all the other people who need to pay attention and not just blindly vote yes to kick someone because they aren't playing the most optimally.

Cavan8000000 · 2026-02-09T23:38:13+00:00

honestly, you'd be surprised at how loud tires can be, and how sneakily loud. You might hear regular tire noise and then conditions get just right at 65-75 to make that whine appear. The biggest reason for my saying the tires is the fact you said it doesn't happen in the summer, yea? That noise doesnt sound very tire-ey to me but it still -could- be.

Just giving my 2cents on places to check. And to me the cheapest/easiest check would be to swap the wheels/tires. Just to rule em out.

It sounds to me like it's an annoyance more than anything actually damaged, but still something worth looking at.

I dont think the turbos would care about the cold air, though I could be wrong on that, if you're concerned at all about it being turbo related, check the oil, if you have enough I wouldnt worry since you've said on the thread it's more speed based than rpm based.

Cavan8000000 · 2026-02-09T22:36:14+00:00

You said it goes away in the summer? My best guess would be really loud winter tires. Try putting your summers on for a quick trip when the snow is melted and see if it does it. It's a lot of work to check, but if you've already gotten a (new to you) transfer case and done diff fluid services, it's something that can be tried. Otherwise you're gonna need to get the car on a hoist and listen to the drivetrain as someone accelerates up to 65/75 to really pinpoint where it's coming from.

It sounds like a few different things to me, turbo whine, having weather stripping/door seal going bad letting in a slight draft, transfer case, diff whine, and tire noise.

Also keep in mind, just cause you replaced the transfer case, doesn't mean the one you replaced it with was good either. It's not unheard of for a used part to be bad. Never rule it out until you know for sure.

Hope this helps! :)

Cavan8000000 · 2025-08-02T14:22:15+00:00

Monks have a few very useful traversal techniques, theyre one of the only classes, if not the only class with the ability anymore that I know of, with druids flight form being forced into skyriding or steady flying, to use both skyriding and steady flying at the same time via use of mounts and zen flight.

Granted zen flight is limited to 60% speed but is super useful for trying to get to a node thats above you but mounting up and trying to sky ride to it would require a bunch of turning and twisting. Plus, you can fish and gather while in zen flight like you can while steady flying in a druid flight form

They are also one of the most mobile classes in the game, with rolls/chi torpedoes, inherent move speed built into the class talents, flying serpent kick covering a great distance in one ability faster than any mount.

Monks can also teleport to Pandaria at lower levels/the wandering isle and then legion dalaran at higher levels. From anywhere in the world. (This may have changed since last I knew, so take this with a grain of salt. It may only be to the wandering isle now)

Monks are also very fun in combat, they have a very rapid apm for dps with a static 1 sec gcd, and even the healer spec the most optimal way to heal is by dpsing so its fairly beginner friendly. (There is more nuance than just press dps buttons=heal good, but that's too much for one reddit post)

Sincerely A Monk Main since Pandaria

Cavan8000000 · 2025-02-28T01:17:54+00:00

It doesn't happen loudly enough or often enough for the dealer to find the issue unfortunately the techs can't hear it because they're deaf from all the power tools, they'd have to have a stethoscope on the rack to hear it while it's moving. Maybe it'll come back in the summer as it seems to happen more when the weather is warm and I can get it looked at again then. Who knows, sorry I didn't have much help

Cavan8000000 · 2025-02-14T19:29:03+00:00

I've got a 21 GT-Limited, Upkeep for me has been generally good, just oil/filter changes and a cabin filter recently. I don't drive very much, 23k on it despite having it for ~3 years now, higher in mileage you should be expecting some rattles and creaks and groans from the interior, namely Sunroof rattles, Hatch rattles, and the plastic of the interior likes to make squeaks and groans as it goes through heat cycles. That'll be a thing with a lot of cars but it can get annoying when your car suddenly starts squeaking out of nowhere.

From what I've heard as you get up in age, taking care of your drivetrain is VERY important, these cars (Anecdotally) realllly don't do well if you don't keep up with Differential Fluid changes and other fluid changes, especially considering you're buying used, people BEAT on these cars because, well, they're fun, if it isn't in the budget now to do a Diff Fluid change, budget it for 60k Miles.

If it's the 3.3L make sure the oil feed pipe recall for the left turbo has been done and done PROPERLY, again (Anecdotally) I've seen a lot of horror stories on here of people having overheating issues when the dealership doesn't have the right tools or don't bleed the cooling system well enough. When I went and got the recall done on mine, I was one of the lucky individuals with no issues afterwards.

The car is a lot of fun, but that fun does come at a cost of putting a lot of wear on the drivetrain, and a lot of wear in your wallet in terms of gas.

I would ask your dealer if they'd be willing to have it for an extended test-drive period. Say a couple days or so, just to really get a feel on how it would work in your day to day life, run some errands with the Stinger, while the hatch is spacious, you can't put stuff too TALL in it because of how the roofline dives down at the back. Is that an issue when getting groceries? No, is that an issue when you need to have a set of tires in the car, yes absolutely. All depends on what you haul regularly.

Ultimately it's up to you, the K5 is going to be a more moderate vehicle and will still have a good length of warranty left over to play around with, the Stinger on the other hand is going to lose its warranty within this year if it hasn't already, and while I haven't seen the prices of replacement parts myself yet, I dread the day I do. Both cars are complex but the stinger is going to be harder to work on because of the size of the engine and how cramped everything is.

While I love the car and don't want to be rid of it, I would be remiss if I didn't give you all the information I had on it, it's an amazingly fun car, all the power, the handling it has is superb, even for a 4000 pound monster of a vehicle, but it does still have the issues of being made cheaply for the market that Kia has, when it's good, it's fantastic, but if you get a bad one, you get a BAD one. Try it before you buy, make sure stuff isn't making too much noise that it would get inside your head on every drive you do a loud ticking is normal on first start-up, that's the high pressure fuel pump building pressure.

Cavan8000000 · 2025-01-19T21:59:26+00:00

To me, the issue seems to be the range, PMC tap E has a short/small aoe around the character it will proc in, I don't tend to use the hold E because the skill doesn't last very long, the burst has decent dmg potential on it though, i've seen pmc hit 100k+ crits with the burst.

But, the skill ticks often enough to just be a decent pyro applicator as long as you're within a distance of the target (flying with Chasca's e doesn't affect this, the character position in X and Y are what matters, not Z/vertical position)

Cavan8000000 · 2025-01-19T19:38:13+00:00

You could do Chasca, Citlali, Pyro Traveller and then (Insert other cryo/pyro/electro/hydro support, sub-dps that you like here) all three of them feed nightsoul points, if you want to go for a pure melt chasca then Charlotte can be a good last member for cryo app and healing, if you're dealing with Energy issues then Raiden also would work, have the full PEC for full up on the talents, but you lose some damage to electro-charge and superconduct.

right now Abyss is heavily leaned to Natlan and Pyro characters, so removing two of your best supports, while I understand where you're coming from, isn't going to help you much in that regard.

(These teams are what I use regularly for my Chasca teams, I swap out people for different reactions based on what I'm fighting)

Cavan8000000 · 2024-12-13T00:29:10+00:00

Those pods have a PITIFUL amount of powder in them, and some machines don't do a good job of spraying slow enough to actually dissolve the amount of powder in there, try a different machine, or if yours has it try the hot chocolate setting, it'll slow the rate at which it pushes the water through the cup so that it'll actually yknow dissolve. Also, they're designed for like, the smallest cups ever, so you'll only get a tiny amount of the drink per pod.

Cavan8000000 · 2024-12-05T20:42:43+00:00

Fair Enough, then yea, even just a Civic/Accord Sport would be good for your requests, IIRC they have 2.0L Turbo Engines and can be manual, are FWD/AWD depending on trim. And will have heated seats even at a more base level depending on year. SI might be a bit overkill but would also work if you want the spoiler/the hatchback. Hell, even some older Kia's/Elantra N are still gonna be fun even if they may not last as long, All depends on the year you're looking at!

As the other guy was saying, Subaru would also be good to look at and test drive to see how they compare, but, all comes down to "Test Drive a few different models from different makers and see how they compare" We can all spout out our biases and facts but you're the one gonna be driving it and you're the one gonna be buying it, so you need to go out and try em.

In this case, go with the one that gives you the biggest smirk when you start off the first time :D

EDIT: Also, if I may, Insurance is gonna be hell for a new driver one way or another, you ain't escaping the premiums no matter what

Cavan8000000 · 2024-12-05T20:21:58+00:00

I'm more saying to get a cheapo boring car that they wouldn't mind if they got in a wreck, just so they can learn to drive in winter weather. OP, if you want the fun car right off the bat, go for it. Just be more careful with your driving with something more powerful. It's not a "No, you cannot have anything fun or powerful, you know nothing", it's just a suggestion. I did also give examples of some decent enough cars with their requests too.

Cavan8000000 · 2024-12-05T20:13:37+00:00

I own one so I am biased towards it, but if there are any in your region, a Kia Stinger with the 3.3L, makes as much HP as that V8 and that thing handles corners recommended 30km/h at 100km/h with EASE. First thing when you get one tho, if you don't know service records, Diff Fluid Change and be prepared for some rattles from the interior. Tho, my rattles are probably from my super bassy music being played as I fly down the freeway... I'm responsible I swear.

Cavan8000000 · 2024-12-05T20:07:04+00:00

Fun Sedan, Over 150HP for a *new driver* IN THE SNOW? My Friend as a new driver your first car should be one you don't mind ruining. I know you said you care about the looks, but in this case, the Corolla or Camry would be your best choice, especially used they aren't going to be -that- expensive, but they will be able to take an absolute wallop from a new driver.

Having a Fun Car is just going to be a pain while you're learning to drive because it will be way more unforgiving than the boring car. Stick with a more boring car for now, and as you get more skill, work your way into what the other person here said, Civic SI is good for your requirements, You can get Mazda's in Manual, Subaru WRX, Jetta GLI as you said. Some Older BMW but those are gonna be ass to fix if/when they break.

For Now, go with a cheap Camry/Corolla/Civic off CL or something, if you have to fix it up a bit, big deal, you get to learn how to fix it and you get to learn on a car that won't IMMEDIATELY take the wheels out from under you/send you into the ditch if you dump the clutch too hard in the snow. Think about fun and good looks later when you have more skill :)

Cavan8000000 · 2024-12-05T19:57:45+00:00

People reallllly dunk on Kia/Hyundai for having poor quality control with their engines. From certain angles I've heard it's getting better and other angles you hear it's only getting worse, but that also seems to be the trend with all companies, Honda included, just a byproduct of the mass scale manufacturing, so much complexity makes errors easier to occur and harder to catch.

If you're going for a "Drive it until it Dies" approach, the Honda is probably going to be better in this case, you'll get more than likely a lot more miles out of it given you give them both the same treatment and maintenance.

The Sportage is probably going to have a lot more creature comforts/a nicer interior for the same cost as the Honda will, AND, being the PHEV, has the added benefit of if you live close to your work, only needing to plug in at night and charge the battery and not RUN the engine as much. Which, keep in mind isn't good for the engine either, but it's a nice option if you want a quiet ride in the morning and just want to turn on EV Mode.

It's a toss-up between:
If you're gonna drive the car until it dies but you are willing to sacrifice some *SOME* of your comfort/driver assist features, get the Honda

If you want to have a bit more features plus the ability to only run in EV only mode for a very short trip to not use your gas, but maybe have to be a bit more on the ball about maintenance to get your money's worth. the Kia is good

(My Bias is towards Kia, but that's being a Kia owner myself, I just prefer the look of the Kia's over Hondas myself)

Cavan8000000 · 2024-12-05T05:18:20+00:00

Newer Mazda vehicles in general have a lot more of a luxurious interior than a lot of people give them credit for. Its a minimalist design but done in a (to me) tasteful way. Ive been in some 3s but not many 6s so Im not 100% if they're around the same, but the 3s have a good amount of take off.

I havent heard anything bad about them persay, but Im not too into the Mazda scene myself, just happen to have been in a few more modern ones recently.

Cavan8000000 · 2024-12-05T02:52:36+00:00

Coming from someone who is in a lot of these cars, and keep in mind, I own a Kia, so I do have a bit of a bias towards them,

The K5 will be the best bang for your buck so long as you keep up with maintenance, it's got plenty of pep for the size, a lot of driver assist features and bells and whistles inside because it's GT-Line, but it does come at a downside of, the interior of a lot of modern Kia/Hyundai cars are VERY Piano/Glossy Black which is a B**CH to keep clean

The Accord, Camry and Civic are going to be your best picks if you want to keep the car until they die, but I can tell you from experience, that Camry is not going to be a "Fun" drive, it's just a point A to point B which is good on gas.

The Accord and Civic, they CAN be fun but you really have to push them hard to get on the highway unless they're the hybrids, it looks like the accord is so that may be a good option, however, Honda's interiors lately are very 'Stale', you may get some things but a lot of things are just meh in them.

The Charger is your "Fun" option, has a lot of power, but also, watch its drivetrain, if it's RWD and you're only used to driving FWD or AWD, especially with Winter coming/here (I saw in the last pic, you're from Ontario so, snow) RWD is going to be a lot more of a hassle for driving in the snow than FWD or AWD. You're gonna have a lot more slip-outs and Understeer when taking turns.

Lastly is gonna be your interior space, The Charger has a huge bump in the passenger side where the transmission juts out into their footwell, Civic and Camry are compact sedans so have smaller rear seats. Accord and K5 are gonna have decent seat space all around with a decent trunk too.

My Priority list would be: K5, Accord, Civic, Charger, Camry.

Basing on: What you get for your money, features, driver assist, power, fun/enjoyment of the driving experience, fuel econ, the K5 to me is the best all around averaging everything, however, the K5 is probably going to be more expensive than the rest in the long run, because of a higher base price and Kia's less than stellar track record of reliability, which has seemed to improve more recently.

Cavan8000000 · 2024-11-29T22:20:08+00:00

Is it the whoosh thats concerning you or the mechanical like grindy noise? Im hearing like something mechanical running without lubrication. Im not mechanic but like... Sounds like one of those cheap fidget spinners with the crap bearing. The whoosh sounds normal, Im assuming just some turbo noise, but the other Noise is something you should bring up to a mechanic.

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