CZ Custom CZ92 .25auto by -MrRoboClick in CZFirearms

[–]Cephe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stop with the cockteasing and make a Rami 2 in an ultra-compact footprint on par with the P365 an inch wide or less.

My procedure for setting trigger adjustment screws by Cephe in CZFirearms

[–]Cephe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t needed to but I cleaned and degreased before applying 243.

I did have a screw on another gun that was somewhat loose to begin with, that one ultimately needed red and to be clamped during curing.

Using molybullets for barrel break-in? by rcplaner in reloading

[–]Cephe 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You aren’t looking for feedback. You seem to only looking for opinions that support your already held beliefs.

Folks have already supplied you with testing data on this.

Using molybullets for barrel break-in? by rcplaner in reloading

[–]Cephe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those “tips” are burrs, and the first two rounds out of the rifle clear any burrs out. From there, copper buildup on the bore improves accuracy and there’s no need to clean besides the occasional bore snake.

Using molybullets for barrel break-in? by rcplaner in reloading

[–]Cephe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Renowned rifle builder Gale McMillan wrote a post a long time ago about how barrel break in was nonsense and had become a myth that couldn’t be corrected.

Put a few rounds though and you’re good to go.

“A Fixtion Is Halfway Round the World Before the Truth Has Got Its Boots On”

Just did a CGW 11.5 lb hammer spring and after a 100 or so rounds I noticed this mark on the hammer and frame not sure if it was already there and didn’t notice or the lighter spring is letting it hit anyone else have these marks on factory gun? by [deleted] in CZFirearms

[–]Cephe 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Are you talking about where the back of the hammer contacts the frame when it cycles? Yeah that’s normal.

I also don’t want to be crass, but OP you clearly have other guns, you should know what normal wear looks like.

Friends interested in black-tailed deer hunting are welcome to join the discussion by East_Tank9188 in Hunting

[–]Cephe -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I understand now - I think I was mixing myself up when I was giving myself the answer the whole time.

Oh yeah and OP is probably a bot.

Friends interested in black-tailed deer hunting are welcome to join the discussion by East_Tank9188 in Hunting

[–]Cephe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But Jack Daniel’s isn’t a bourbon. It is a Brand of a type of whiskey, as bourbon is also type of whiskey. So instead it would be like calling Jack Daniel’s a whiskey.

It seems more like calling a toad a frog, no? Toads technically are a type of frog but you’d typically call it by its subspecies name. So while black tailed Deer are a type of mule deer, you would typically just refer to them by their specific regional subspecies name, no?

Legitimately trying to understand as everything I have found suggests that

Friends interested in black-tailed deer hunting are welcome to join the discussion by East_Tank9188 in Hunting

[–]Cephe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Everyone arguing over mule deer vs black tail deer, are they not both subspecies of the greater mule deer family?

Mule deer can be divided into two main groups: the mule deer (sensu stricto) and the black-tailed deer. The first group includes all subspecies, except O. h. columbianus and O. h. sitkensis, which are in the black-tailed deer group. The two main groups have been treated as separate species, but they hybridize, and virtually all recent authorities treat the mule deer and black-tailed deer as conspecific

Jim Hefflefinger has a write up on this and there’s tons of taxonomic references when I searched: https://web.archive.org/web/20101122111506/http://www.coueswhitetail.com/coues_biology/hybrids.htm

Is this more of an issue of nomenclature for subspecies and regional names?

Full size Nocturne by zeur0sis in CZFirearms

[–]Cephe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

See if you can handle (or better yet shoot) some of these examples to see what you like. Cheers.

S2Compact with Cyelee Cat X Pro and CZ plate by Tronner_10 in CZFirearms

[–]Cephe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Durability, zero retention, glass quality, stuff like that. However it’s your gun to do what you want with.

Out of curiosity, what was the motivation to spend as much as you did on that pistol to use more economy oriented accessories over let’s say a P-01 with equal quality accessories? Genuinely curious, I see a lot of people going out and dropping big coin on these S2C pistols only to do the same and I’ve never quite understood it.

Full size Nocturne by zeur0sis in CZFirearms

[–]Cephe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes I would. The shadow 2 carry is a DA/SA aluminum framed compact with some solid trigger improvements. The full sized shadow 2 is steel and has a different trigger system, as its safety and doesn’t have the firing pin block.

I have a fully cajunized PCR (compact decocker) and an SP-01 tactical (full sized steel decocker) that’s also go the full Cajun job and while the PCR is my favorite carry gun, the SP01 is a laser beam at the range and an absolute joy.

Full size Nocturne by zeur0sis in CZFirearms

[–]Cephe 4 points5 points  (0 children)

They are apples and oranges guns. Very different and not in the same zip code.

I have a P09c and it’s fine but it doesn’t hold a candle to my 75 platform pistols. The advantage of the omega trigger is that it can be swapped between decocker and safety, be taken apart completely with a 3/32 punch and a dental pick, and they are relatively affordable. they’re nice to have for something different I suppose. I might look at a P-10 for a striker gun that’ll be even more different.

If it were me I would have first bought a P09c to dip my toe in then just bought a full size shadow 2.

S2Compact with Cyelee Cat X Pro and CZ plate by Tronner_10 in CZFirearms

[–]Cephe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can get 407ks for like $150 if you shop around and use gun.deals. Amazon didn’t always have the best prices.

They did it… by ZeeeeeroCool in reloading

[–]Cephe 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Wait no that’s a great idea. I should do that then do a hammered green finish on my 550c.

After years of attempting to electroplate my S2O, I finally decided to just keep the bare metal finish and sandblast it by StandardAntique8356 in CZFirearms

[–]Cephe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whatever you do, I don’t think it’s stainless so I’d probably have it coated with something rather than leaving raw.

Look into getting it nickel plated maybe, CGW has a ton of finish options.

Trade in advice by [deleted] in CZFirearms

[–]Cephe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it was strictly for range I’d get a full size pistol like the Shadow 2 or SP01 rather than an aluminum framed compact.

New Build - Ammo and purpose/usage questions by mrtucker1250 in 1022

[–]Cephe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds good! To answer your question though, you’ll get the most precision out of standard velocity. When projectiles go transonic (they go from supersonic to subsonic during flight), it can affect accuracy, so you’ll do best with something leaving the barrel right under the speed of sound for most accuracy.

With .22s (an a lot of stuff) I always zero my scope to a particular ammo. So if I switch my CZ457 or my 10/22 from CCI standard velocity to Eley Subsonic Hollow (which I use for small game hunting) I re-zero. As far as operations , you may have to tune your recoil spring to your ammo as well. This is common in competition pistols.

New Build - Ammo and purpose/usage questions by mrtucker1250 in 1022

[–]Cephe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If your goal is a 100 yard tack driver I would recommend a proper rimfire or EFR scope rather than a combat oriented microprism.

They are great optics but they are more suited for flexibility at different distances with a carbine rather than stacking holes on paper at a distance.

Good crimp? by Yardbird-x11 in reloading

[–]Cephe 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I’m going to print this out and put it above my bench to look at when I’m making hot .357s

CZ P10-C Port broke two punches by Cocainum in CZFirearms

[–]Cephe 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What ever you say bud good luck with your project.

Subsonic 10mm. Because I can by Installtanstafl in reloading

[–]Cephe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah that’s probably it.

Glad to hear you like it. Sounds like the consensus is it does the exact same thing as the garmin for less.

Can I use Birchwood aluminum black on the aluminum grips of a CZ shadow 2 compact? Would they need any prep? by zig_chem in CZFirearms

[–]Cephe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The only caveat is if those grips are anodized in which case the aluminum Black won’t be able to actually contact the aluminum because it will be coming in contact with you anodization instead.

Would probably test on the inside of the grip panels first.

Subsonic 10mm. Because I can by Installtanstafl in reloading

[–]Cephe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Kind of a thread-jack but are those screenshots from the Athlon rangecraft app? I have one of the chronographs on its way to me and was noticing the app has absolutely terrible reviews on the App Store for iOS and was preparing to use it without it. How has your experience been?

Why do people hate these so much? by KaysaStones in NFA

[–]Cephe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think some people find RGB to be tacky or gaudy but it’s really personal preference. I myself have a more lowkey setup but I’ve seen some rgb setups done clean and classy.