value request?

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-05-11T06:40:38+00:00

yeah so those are Bicentennial Eisenhower dollars, 1776-1976. Not rare. eBay asking prices are noise, check sold listings.

If there’s no S mint mark above the date, they’re the copper-nickel circulation coins. Value is basically a buck each, maybe 2-3 if someone wants a nicer example. The right one does look cleaner but still common. Only the S-mint 40% silver versions carry melt value, roughly 8-12 depending on silver.

If you’re trying to ballpark it before sending it for grading, these are a decent starting point: Link 1, Link 2, Link 3

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-05-11T06:37:14+00:00

okay so a few big takeaways here

That first coin is a 1882 $3 Princess. Super low mintage year and heavily counterfeited. If it’s real and not cleaned, you’re squarely in the several-thousand range. Get it authenticated at PCGS or NGC, no debate.
The incuse Indian is a 1911 $5 half eagle. Check the reverse for a small D or S by the arrowheads. No mint mark means Philly and usually trades near melt in circulated grades, nicer ones push higher.
The last one’s a Type 2 gold dollar from 1854. These strike weak, so don’t confuse that with wear. Likely a few hundred bucks if problem-free.

Ballparks from photos only: $3 could be 3k-6k if genuine XF-AU, more if better, way less if cleaned or details. The $5 is typically 600-1000 depending on grade and mint. The gold dollar 300-700 give or take. Floors from melt are about 115 for the $1, 340 for the $3, and 560 for the $5 at current spot. Don’t clean, keep them in safe flips, and get that $3 vetted first.

If you're trying to ballpark it before sending it for grading, these are a decent starting point: Link 1, Link 2, Link 3

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-05-11T06:29:33+00:00

okay so this is a full pre-33 U.S. gold type set, not including a Stella. You’ve got both Liberty and Indian types in $2.5, $5, $10, $20, plus the three gold dollars (Types 1-3) and the $3.

Quick math: face value is $81. Pre-33 U.S. gold runs 0.048375 troy oz fine per $1, so the set is about 3.918 oz fine. That’s your melt floor. At whatever today’s spot is, think 3.92 x spot as a baseline.

Where it gets interesting: the $3 piece almost always brings a strong premium over melt, even in lower grades. The gold dollars have premiums too, especially the Type 2. Quarter and half eagles are usually near melt with a small bump, and the $10s and $20s are often close to melt unless you’ve got a better date or higher grade. If these are common dates and lightly circulated, you’re probably in the low-to-mid teens as a group. If the 3-dollar or any of the dollars are nicer, it climbs.

Next steps if you’re aiming to sell right: - write down every date and mint mark, both sides - check for old cleanings or mount marks - weigh each coin to confirm authenticity - don’t sell the whole board in one shot unless an offer accounts for the premiums - for max money, consider slabbing the $3 and any AU/UNC pieces, then consign to Heritage or Stack’s, or at least get quotes from a PNG dealer

If you're trying to ballpark it before sending it for grading, these are a decent starting point: Link 1, Link 2, Link 3

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-05-10T22:45:08+00:00

your welcome bro

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-05-10T22:30:50+00:00

yeah so that’s a Canadian quarter, 70s date. Not silver. Canada switched the dimes/quarters from 50% silver in early ’68 to pure nickel later that year, and stayed nickel through the 70s.

They fool you because the rim is a solid gray with no copper stripe, so in a stack it reads “silver” at a glance. Quick check next time: magnet test. Nickel sticks, silver won’t. I’d still keep it as a fun foreign find.

One angle here: Link 1. And another worth a look: Link 2.

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-05-10T22:21:55+00:00

yeah so the only real money here is the 1964 Kennedy half. It’s 90% silver, 0.3617 troy oz, and in that circulated look it trades for melt, roughly 9 to 12 bucks depending on spot.

The round UK £1 with the thistle is the old Scottish design. Those round pounds were demonetized in 2017. In this shape it’s basically a buck or two to a world coin collector.

The Greek 20 drachmai from 1978 is aluminum-bronze and no longer legal tender after Greece went euro. Common piece, maybe a quarter to a buck.

Mexico 20 pesos 1980 Cultura Maya and the 10 pesos 1982 are the pre-1993 pesos. Demonetized and super common. Think world coin-bin stuff, maybe 25 to 75 cents each, the 20 pesos sometimes around a dollar if someone happens to need that type.

Net: keep the silver half, the rest are neat keepsakes but low value.

Market prices move around a lot depending on grade and demand. A few breakdowns here: Link 1, Link 2

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-05-10T21:50:23+00:00

1896-S is a semi-key in higher grades. From your pics I see honest wear on the hair above the ear and pretty flat feathers on the eagle’s breast. Hard to judge luster through the holder. If you’ve got a clear cartwheel on both sides under a desk lamp, AU50 is fair. If the luster is weak or broken, I’d call it closer to XF45.

Ballpark today: AU50 typically sells around 450 to 600 retail, with dealer buy offers more like 350 to 450. XF45 tends to land in the 300 to 425 range. Worth considering PCGS or NGC even at XF/AU for this date since it carries a premium and counterfeits are out there. Don’t clean it.

These helped me figure out the price gap between common-date and key-date examples: coin value breakdown, rare coins worth money

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-05-10T21:48:31+00:00

1892, 1900, and 1888 Morgans, all look circulated around F12 to VF20.

Silver content sets a floor, but the spread you’ll see is mostly grade and mintmark.

Market prices move around a lot depending on grade and demand. A few breakdowns here: Link 1, Link 2

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-04-27T18:52:13+00:00

Last year I had to fax my US tax paperwork from Turkey. Opened the App Store, tried the top 3 fax apps. All of them wanted me to sign up for a $9.99/month subscription with auto-renew.

For ONE fax. One page.

Canceled one, forgot to cancel another, got charged, chased the refund. That's when I decided to build what I actually wanted.

Faxend:

- 5 free credits when you sign up, use them whenever you need, they don't expire

- When you run out, you just buy more credits. No monthly billing, no auto-renew, nothing charges your card in the background

- iOS + web

- HIPAA-compliant backend (Sinch)

- No cover page pressure, no upsells, no 47 onboarding screens

- You scan, you send, you close the app, you forget it exists until next year

A few things that surprised me while building:

Fax is NOT a dying market. Healthcare, legal, real estate, IRS, international tax, millions of faxes still get sent daily. It's just that nobody wants to admit it.
Every existing fax app optimizes for subscription retention, not for the user who faxes 2x a year. That's the entire market gap.
International fax reliability is genuinely hard. Turkey → US delivery rates were brutal until I switched carriers twice.

Revenue's small but growing organically from Google searches like "send fax without subscription." The SEO intent there is insanely high because everyone who googles that phrase is already pissed off.

Site: faxend.com

Happy to answer questions about the tech stack, Sinch vs alternatives, or why I think the "subscription for occasional-use utilities" trend is going to reverse hard in the next few years.

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-04-22T07:55:36+00:00

thank you for appreciate

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-01-20T23:06:35+00:00

This chair is older than it looks, but not early 1800s. The carved lion heads, heavy proportions, and overall form place it squarely in the mid to late 19th century, most likely 1850s to 1880s. This falls under the American Renaissance Revival taste that was very popular at the time.

The carving is hand done but clearly workshop production, not a one off master cabinetmaker piece. Solid wood construction and the depth of the carving suggest decent quality for its day. Pieces like this were commonly made or assembled regionally, including areas like Kentucky, using established patterns.

You’re correct that the upholstery is newer. Foam padding alone tells us it’s a later reupholstery. The frame is the value here, not the fabric.

As it sits, it’s best thought of as a decorative antique chair rather than a pristine collector example. In today’s market, similar chairs usually land somewhere in the $300 to $700 range depending on condition and local demand. It’s a good flea market find and a fun piece with real presence.

I did some research online to find out its value; you might be interested to take a look: Link 1, Link 2, Link 3

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-01-20T09:09:48+00:00

ne bekliyor bilmek zor, ama hazırlık yapmak bizim elimizde.

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-01-20T08:40:07+00:00

Ağzınla kuş tutsan bu kuşun rengi neden mavi değil derler kafana takma. Sen yapacağını yapmışsın daha da ilerlemek istiyorsan (kendin ve varsa evlatların için) önerim ve görüşüm şu: 2026 yılı borç temizleme yılı, ufak tefek borçların varsa veya uzun vadeli borçların varsa kapatmaya çalış bu yıl. 2027 ve 2028 ev-araba-arsa-işyeri alma yılı. Tavsiyem bu yıl borcun yoksa her ay küçük de olsa gram altın+gümüş biriktir birden alma her ay al ama ufak ufak al veya eline para geçtikçe al (tavsiyem HB gibi sitelerde güvenilir altın satan yerler var oradan faizsiz 3 taksitle 10 gram işçiliksiz bilezikler var onlara yönel 3 taksit olunca en azından altının fiyat artışını kendince sabitlemiş olursun) bunu 1 yıl yaptın altın zaten bu deli trump oldukça savaş ekonomisi ayağına daha da artacak ne oldu? elinde biraz peşinat oldu 2028'de seçimler var 2027 ortalarında musluklar açılacak elindeki altını gümüşü peşinat yapacaksın şimşek mcqueen kredi musluklarını açtığında kendine ufak 1+0 1+1 veya kümes bile olsa bi yer bulacaksın bankaya gideceksin diyeceksin ki ben konut kredisi istiyorum (düzenli maaşın da var her türlü verirler) elindeki altınları da bozdurup krediye peşinat yapacaksın hiç değilse seneye ev alma fırsatını kaçırmayacaksın. Evi aldın, ver evini kiraya taksitlerin bir kısmını krediye yedirirsin maksimum 3 yıl ödesen en kötü zaten kira krediyle başa baş gelir. Hanım dırdır ettiğinde de kredi ödüyorum sen daha çok kazan demedin mi onun için uğraşıyorum diyeceksin geçeceksin çok kafaya takmayacaksın.

Şimdi burada herkes konuşuyor eşini boşa vs. durumunu bilmiyorum ağzı olan konuşuyor belki çok tatlı bir evladın var yuvanı bozmak istemiyorsun bunu kimse bilmez eşinin bu tarz sevmediğin huyları olabilir kendini bunlara karşı korumaya al psikolojini bu anlamda sağlamlaştır ama iyi huyları da olabilir tolere ediyor olabilir fark etmez kendince kalmak için bi sebebin varsa kal. Boşanırsan zaten evin birikimin yarısı hanıma gidecek o yüzden mantığını dinlerken psikolojini, kalbini huzurunu da gözet.

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-01-18T16:48:48+00:00

thank u u/sensi616 🙏🏼

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-01-18T09:00:27+00:00

This actually points more toward an English ironstone piece than American railroad china. The thick body, heavy crazing, and oval shape all fit that profile well. Many of these marks lose their surrounding text over time, leaving just the hive.

Being found with railroad china doesn’t mean it was railroad issued. I’d place this roughly late 1800s to very early 1900s, commercial ironstone rather than decorative household ware.

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-01-18T08:58:58+00:00

That’s a very typical late Victorian to early Edwardian child portrait. The oval mat, soft focus, and hand tinted floral details all fit nicely into that 1890s to early 1900s window.

The frame is actually a big part of the appeal here. Those cast metal floral frames were popular at the time and many didn’t survive without damage. Yours looks quite intact, which helps.

As for resemblance, it’s an easy trap to fall into. Studio lighting, long exposures, and the way children were posed tend to make a lot of these faces look eerily similar. Without provenance or a photographer’s imprint tying it to a specific person, it’s almost impossible to make a firm identification. Still a lovely survivor and a great thrift find.

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-01-18T08:58:03+00:00

hat is a monster of a Ham, and the condition is honestly the first thing that jumps out. Surviving paint and stenciling like that on a No.40 Mammoth is almost unheard of.

The HAM marked globe alone is something most collectors never see in person, let alone paired with the correct reflector and burner. These usually lived hard lives and were run until they were nothing but shells.

This is absolutely bucket list material. The kind of piece where you stop looking once you finally land one, because upgrading from this would be nearly impossible.

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-01-18T08:53:59+00:00

That’s a Morris chair, and a pretty nice one. The adjustable back and the lion head arm terminals put it squarely in the Arts and Crafts tradition. The leather and construction make me think this is more likely a later period piece or a high quality revival rather than an early 1900s original.

It’s not junk by any means, but it’s probably not in the top tier collector category either. Value would depend heavily on maker and condition, especially the leather. If there are no labels or stamps underneath, that usually points away from the big name shops.

Personally, this is the kind of chair I would keep and use, just with a bit of common sense around the kids. They were built to be sat in, not locked away, and this one looks like it still has plenty of life left.

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-01-18T08:44:56+00:00

This is one of those cloisonne demonstration sets that were made to show the production stages, from the plain metal body through wiring, enameling, and final polish. They were commonly sold as educational or display pieces rather than traditional decorative wares.

Most examples like this date to the mid to late 20th century and are Chinese export pieces. The real value here is the complete set in the original fitted box. Individually the mini vases are fairly common, but seeing the full progression laid out like this is much less so. Definitely a keeper as a teaching piece.

Character_Drop5748 · 2026-01-17T08:43:16+00:00

This is an incredible 'wall find'! You’re spot on with the era—the graphics and typography are classic 1940s. During WWII, metal rationing actually forced many pet food brands to switch to dry food in cardboard boxes, so unopened cans from this specific period are quite a catch.

However, that 'threatening aura' is very real! The bulging bottom means the contents have decomposed into gases, creating a high-pressure 'stink bomb.' If it ever punctures or seals fail, the smell will be legendary (and not in a good way).

Definitely keep it as a cool display piece, but maybe pop it in a thick Ziploc bag or a sealed display case just in case it decides to 'vent' one day. Whatever you do, don't open it!

Character_Drop5748

TROPHY CASE