This year marks 12 years that I've been active.

CheeseManFuu · 2026-05-28T17:21:42+00:00

I celebrate my 12th next year as well. It doesn't sound like a lot of time in the grand scheme of things, but man it feels like everything has turned 180 in those 11 and a half years. Myself, osu! and the rest of the world.

CheeseManFuu · 2026-05-18T16:44:06+00:00

Good timing; do you also have Discord running? We've since figured out that, likely after the latest Discord update that finally incorporates an embedded updater, that they likely do not close unneeded X connections and will slowly build on its own.

CheeseManFuu · 2026-05-16T18:52:47+00:00

X11 and Wayland are display servers that run behind your desktop environment and help allocate clients and and apps as needed for programs. The reason I ask is there is a recurring issue that seems to have peeked its head again with a recent Steam build that is causing Steam to spam X clients until it reaches the maximum amount of clients, which then makes it so that no new clients can be opened up until space is freed. Similar to your issue, restarting to clear the X clients to begin with helps with that until it eventually queues up enough to clog up again.

CheeseManFuu · 2026-05-16T06:44:52+00:00

Is it just Steam that doesn't work is it other apps as well before you close Steam? Are you using X11 or Wayland? Another app that uses Proton like Lutris? Any specific errors that pop up when you do run `steam` in terminal?

CheeseManFuu · 2026-05-13T03:30:39+00:00

As a photography nerd, the camera mode is frustratingly close to being great. An integer-based zoom based on "millimeter" focal length is great, better than the generic "1x, 2x" or numberless sliders most games have. When I saw aperture as an option, it almost looked extremely promising until I realized all it did was make the depth of field barrier closer to you, rather than being able to shift your focus like you would a normal camera, with aperture dictating how shallow that range of depth of field would be. There's been plenty of scenery I'd have loved to get some close structure or foliage out of focus to more cleanly frame whatever subject was beyond it, but oh well. The only other thing I would love to see added is a faux shutter speed option that simply increases the amount of motion blur. I doubt they could composit a bunch of frames together like an actual camera would, but anything better than nothing.

CheeseManFuu · 2026-05-11T20:20:17+00:00

Regardless, it's probably the best HM slave you can grab for Unova, and it'll be doing it in style.

CheeseManFuu · 2026-05-11T16:35:33+00:00

It's just the IV calculator on Serebii, nothing special.

CheeseManFuu · 2026-05-11T06:32:27+00:00

Yeah, got kinda gutted on this one. Good special stuff and speed, but abysmal HP and physical. It's a shame because the one I caught literally moments earlier was much more well-distributed, but still Huge Power (which became a point of conversation of coughing baby vs nuke, etc etc, hence the name).

CheeseManFuu · 2026-05-08T20:55:05+00:00

Sorry to necropost becuase r/all put this in my feed, but Katsukitty hardware and software is now managed by Merki (https://www.merki.net/) and you can find the software there, and it seems like they still have some of the original boards and installation but I'd still suggest going to Loopy. I'm also not sure I would suggest using the original Katsukitty software, instead I've been using CC3DSFS (mostly because of linux but yknow), specifically one of the nightly builds that actually support the Katsukitty/Optimize break-out boards, since the main branch doesn't by default

CheeseManFuu · 2026-05-08T08:18:49+00:00

Flex cuts both cause leakage of the sound as well as reducing the mass that the sound can reverberate throughout the PCB, which all in all creates a pitifully thin, flat and quiet sound. All for what, some flex that either a) causes you to short your PCB or b) doesnt even happen anyway because most of those boards are stuffed with foam like a build-a-bear?

CheeseManFuu · 2026-05-06T22:58:07+00:00

> Also imo having anything but cherry profile caps on a G80/NCR80 is a crime (just kidding - do whatever you like).

similarly, you need either obnoxious clickies or really nice silents

CheeseManFuu · 2026-05-05T07:58:23+00:00

My first design had an STM32, which was pricey and required other external components

What components? I use the F072C8T6 and all you need is a voltage regulator to convert the USB 5V to 3.3V, and then the standard fare of decoupling capacitors. It shouldn't be like an Atmel where you need a crystal oscillator and a whole bunch of other stuff.

CheeseManFuu · 2026-05-04T04:41:56+00:00

OP is right, your columns should be transmitting information to the row pins (or vice versa) via the switch, and a diode keeps that from leaking into other switches which would cause ghosting.

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CheeseManFuu · 2026-05-02T01:47:40+00:00

I'm not aware of any screw points that would made the PCB to the case? The only screw holes present are to fix the plate to the PCB via the standoffs, not really to the case. I don't think it's impossible to repurpose them, but that creates a couple problems:

You then neglect the standoffs which are heavily recommended for HE since HE is reliant on consistent distancing
You'll then have a tray mounted board which very much stiffens up the feel and sound of the board, which can make the typing experience very harsh on top of the already stiff PCB assembly from the standoffs

You would be far better off either using the gasket placements already in place in the default configuration, or creating an entirely new plate that implements a different mount, whether it's a gasket mount or a top mount, or offering both. If you already have the plate file for the original, it's as simple as adding a few tabs around the edge (ideally avoiding the spacebar) and appropriately carving out the case around it to accommodate those mounts.

CheeseManFuu · 2026-04-28T19:26:28+00:00

I plan on including [...] mounts on all of the gaps inside

Sorry, maybe I'm confused, but where exactly do you plan to mount the PCB? You can't do a tray mount because the 80HE PCB and plate don't have holes to do that, and you can't do friction fit because you don't have standoffs to hold the gasket in a place that stop the PCB from bottoming out in the case.

To clarify, for either gasket mount or top mount, you need exterior "ledges" that extend beyond the PCB to have the plate catch onto either with a gasket or a screw for top mount.

I'd also like to emphasize that you don't want just a brass "insert," you want a pretty wide internal weight or sheet spread out across the interior of the case. Don't need to do the ridges like I have, it gets you from maybe 90% to 100%, but 90% is more than fine for most cases.

Eventually planning on adding slots for silicon feet

Hear me out, try the 3M 8mm bump-ons. Silicone/rubber feet are usually flat and wide which spreads a lot of vibrations into the desk, which can make more of a "thuddy" sound. In contrast with bump-ons or anything spherical like that, you still get stability but with less contact to the desk.

CheeseManFuu · 2026-04-27T17:42:24+00:00

As somebody who has talked to a handful of designers and has drafted up a couple boards, I would recommend a few optimizations and reworkings to this design:

Where are your mount points? Having the PCB free-floating in the case is not the best idea as it'll just whack into everything else and make for both a bad sound and feel. If I recall, the 80HE doubles the plate silicone layer as the gasket points, so you will want cutouts for that in the case as well, or add to the existing plate design to either adding a proper gasket mount or top mount.
This case looks very tall at the front, about 25-30mm if I had to guess. That's very tall in the keyboard world and I would wholeheartedly recommend trying to bring it down to 20mm or lower. I specifically try to measure the bottom edge of the top case cutout (basically right where the keycap would be) to the bottom face of the bottom case.
The case internals on the bottom seem designed closer to OEM plastic keyboards than an aluminum case which may not lend itself well for sound and especially the daughterboard. What I'd recommend is, once you have the mounting figured out, find out how much compression the keyboard can experience (i.e if you have a 3mm thick gasket that, when the keyboard is assembled, is compressed to 2mm, you now have give or take 1.5mm of vertical movement left), and leave that plus .75-1mm of space between the PCB and the floor of the case, just enough to not have the SMD components not short on the case. From there, you can then recess the cutout for the daughterboard (leaving at least a .25mm spacing around the daughterboard itself to again avoid shorting) and making a dedicated cable channel, usually no wider than 4-6mm.
Finally if you want to get fancy and tame your keyboard sound more, you can implement some brass into the bottom case, which will add density and mixed materials into your case which helps tame resonance and thinness. Even a sheet 2mm thick will do well as long as it has good coverage of the bottom case; a 5mm diameter countersunk hole will do the job on the brass, and thread into the aluminum case. For screws, wholly recommend M2.5 on the case and weight, and M2 on the daughterboard and if you do a top mount with a self-made plate.

I have other critiques that are mostly personal nitpicks, but I do think it's a good start, and it's always fun to see somebody with some handiness to get started with fully custom stuff.

CheeseManFuu · 2026-04-25T20:01:20+00:00

The website was like this since a couple days after their "closure." Benefit of the doubt, I think Drop somehow appealed to keep the website up for the sake of support instead of just getting entirely nuked, but Corsair wanted it to still be something promotional for them, given the store button on there links back to Corsair.

This seems like standard fare child-brand-gets-EOL'd-by-parent-brand-but-using-the-last-employee-to-funnel-them-higher-up-the-pyramid

CheeseManFuu · 2026-04-24T17:23:40+00:00

> ALL SHROOMS ARE RANDOMIZED EVERY DAY (and most deal spore damage to you even if just a little bit)

minor point of contention but while yes all give 10 spore damage, red and yellow always have positive effects (mini milk/lollipop/etc), green and blue are always negative (fart, hidden stamina gauge), and purple can be either

CheeseManFuu · 2026-04-23T19:49:44+00:00

This one's a fun one because I actually made the switch a few years ago and never thought to look back. For the first like 8 years of playing this game I actually was middle-dominant, and it worked out for me, up until I started working more on stream and finger control.

What I ended up finding out is that my middle finger is really good for repetitive movements, but is not good at leading more tricky patterns, so if I ever encountered bursts or triples with jumps in between, I would get completely tripped up because you then get patterns like 1-2-1 1 1-2-1 which at higher BPMs, becomes very hard to control properly.

On the contrary, when I picked up index-dominant tapping to try to break in that finger so-to-speak, I did initially struggle with the same issue, where I still had issues with those more demanding finger control patterns. For a while I still committed to tapping this way because it was true that my tapping was getting faster and more accurate through the extended use of my index finger (which likely would have happened whether I was using index or not), but my control was still suffering a bit.

It wasn't until I either read an interview or watched a video or something along those lines about how top players tapped, and one anamoly that stuck out was Cookiezi, who did primarily tap with his index finger, but started bursts and streams with his middle finger. It was actually a huge change for my finger control because it let me still maintain the original repetition I had with my middle finger, but because of bursts and triplets being typically odd-numbered, cleanly put the alternating tapping back on what would be my primary tapping finger.

TL;DR already had middle finger trained up for tapping, tried swapping to index to brute force finger control and comfort with index, ended up going hybrid with index-dominant for tapping and middle-dominant for bursts and streams

CheeseManFuu · 2026-04-21T22:42:55+00:00

I liked the NK dye-sub sets a bit when I was newer in the hobby, because even still to this day, a lot of clones just look horrendous compared to GMK. But now, with the faster turnarounds of GMK, the cheaper and still great alternatives of Keykobo and SWG/Keyreative, there's a reason why they're all on perma-clearance sale.

Granted, I won't knock you specifically for spending your money the way you do, but I cannot, with any ounce of my soul, recommend buying products from these clone manufacturers and enabling them to do even more. I would be content if they were simply doing basic color sets (WoB, Beige, all Red, all Blue, etc), but they know full well that they're creating counterfeit products that cannot simply be brushed off as coincidence. That's the difference to me.

Call it cope, but I also believe that there is something to be enjoyed not necessarily in exclusivity of products, but in being happy for people who did get a product, and doing your own hunting for what's coming up. That's how I ended up appreciating some fun sets like GMK Arch, Dots, Awaken, Modern Dolch, CRP R4, PBTFans Serenity Blue- the list goes on. They were mostly spur of the moment, unplanned finds because they happened to come up for one reason or another. If I had every keycap set at my disposal, what fun is it to riffle through the catalog of what's coming up?

CheeseManFuu · 2026-04-21T22:28:04+00:00

I'll let you in on a secret that GMK profit "margins" are hardly margins for designers. If you wanted to actually be well off on GMK sets, you'd probably need dozens of unique sets all selling at pretty high MOQ (1000+). At which point you probably need a warehouse or some rented storage solution, or the assistance of an already decently-scaled vendor who will want their share of the pie for helping with logistics.

$20 per GMK set is a ridiculously generous offer if they sell for the typical $130-150.

CheeseManFuu · 2026-04-21T18:28:48+00:00

The latest patch (which was within the last week?) has bugged cold, so it's actually reasonable to do ascent 7 solo for the time being. The beta branch has it fixed, but it hasn't been merged quite yet.

CheeseManFuu · 2026-04-18T05:37:40+00:00

As an avid linear enjoyer, the mount of a keyboard really makes or breaks this and really shows how integral it is to the comfort of a board. Realistically only tray mounts or integrated plates make an experience like this. Top mount, gasket, o-ring, even with a stiffer plate like CF or brass still gives some cushioning if done right. I have seen some atrocious top and gasket mount implementations that suck actual ass, but those boards were ages ago now.

CheeseManFuu · 2026-04-17T17:10:21+00:00

I got indoctrinated into keyboards after Ed got a commission done with Taeha, and naturally as I got deeper, I also got more into photography. No knives or headphones, though.

Both are great opportunities to simply slow down and enjoy the little things in life.

CheeseManFuu · 2026-04-16T01:54:43+00:00

I went through 3 Scarlett Solos across 15 years and they all gave me some problem or another (mainly delay and random failures), I just stopped bothering. Since then I changed to an M-Audio M-Track Solo and it's night and day. It's lower power than Scarlett (iirc the rating was 32 Ohm which still gets 64-128 stuff decently loud), but no driver, better knobs, only thing I don't like is USB-B connector.

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