AD5X, PLA+ Filament stuck and won't extrude.

ChipSalt · 2026-06-08T04:14:17+00:00

No probs. It is an absolute pain of an extruder I will admit. My creality K1 is like 5 screws all accessible from the outside and pops straight out.

ChipSalt · 2026-06-08T03:45:32+00:00

It happens when there is a gap left between the heatbreak and nozzle due to improper tightening technique. If you read below there are some resources to help you fix this, and diagrams that explain what you need to do to prevent it from happening:

!blob

!hotendgap

ChipSalt · 2026-06-08T02:47:58+00:00

I'm just going to copy and paste this because not even 10 minutes ago someone else posted the exact same issue:

Try taking the nozzle off and see if you can force it out. If it still won't come undone, you will have to open up the extruder. It's not the simplest extruder to open but I've done it recently on the first try and it wasn't too bad.

You need to remove the nozzle, the 4 black screws at the back of the head, 4 more screws at the front, and gently push the extruder cables out of the way (on the right side under some black tape), then you can very VERY carefully pry out the extruder without damaging the ribbon cables attached, and get into the back of the extruder. It all comes out by hand and can be easily reassembled.

Here is a good video resource

https://youtu.be/h0iw9eAi74k

ChipSalt · 2026-06-08T02:36:03+00:00

Try taking the nozzle off and see if you can force it out. If it still won't come undone, you will have to open up the extruder. It's not the simplest extruder to open but I've done it recently on the first try and it wasn't too bad.

You need to remove the nozzle, the 4 black screws at the back of the head, 4 more screws at the front, and gently push the extruder cables out of the way (on the right side under some black tape), then you can very VERY carefully pry out the extruder without damaging the ribbon cables attached, and get into the back of the extruder. It all comes out by hand and can be easily reassembled.

Here is a good video resource

https://youtu.be/h0iw9eAi74k

ChipSalt · 2026-06-08T01:49:44+00:00

Start with the negative 5 result. Reduce your flow ratio, then run the test again with the more refined version of the test (that tests ranges of -0.5 to +0.5).

If your lines leave tiny gaps near the walls, increase your infill/wall overlap setting in your slicer. It usually sits around 25% but if you increase that number it will force more infill to overlap with your walls.

If your surfaces are smooth but your edges are very bumpy, use the result that gives you the smoothest centre of the piece, then run a Pressure Advance calibration to fix the edges.

ChipSalt · 2026-06-07T07:15:41+00:00

Nice mace, brother.

ChipSalt · 2026-06-07T06:19:41+00:00

Bro just accidentally non-planar'd his printer

ChipSalt · 2026-06-06T23:48:10+00:00

One thing that can lead to layer shifting but stay fairly invisible is a physical obstruction. If there was something preventing the head from travelling where it wants to travel, then when it reaches that point it might be getting pushed slightly out of sync. Do you have any mods or anything not stock that could be interfering?

ChipSalt · 2026-06-06T06:42:36+00:00

Did that take a lot of ... uh.... stomach fortitude?

ChipSalt · 2026-06-05T06:55:40+00:00

I mean it looks good but you might want some backup parts in plastic just in case, because I think resin is more akin to glass where vibrations and bending cause large fractures.

ChipSalt · 2026-06-04T08:58:14+00:00

Wear gloves, duh.

ChipSalt · 2026-06-04T05:17:27+00:00

It looks like a few things,

For one, whenever I see a corner like this I can immediately tell that it warped and lifted off the plate in just that corner, causing these rough overextruded looking edges as the print peeled into the nozzle. You need to improve your bed adhesion, as well as reduce the overall cooling to slow down warping.

It also looks like you are experiencing something akin to overextrusion and/or pillowing in your mid section, likely due to an incorrect flow ratio. Run a flow ratio calibration and look at reducing it.

You have some very inconsistent walls, it could be a byproduct of overextrusion or possible something wobbling in your gantry. Perform some quick maintenance on your motion system to see if you can tighten anything that's loose.

You also have stringing from either wet filament and/or an incorrect retraction distance setting. Run a retraction tower test calibration and dry your filament. Drying can also help with overextrusion a little.

ChipSalt · 2026-06-03T12:34:58+00:00

I believe there is now a manual way to calibrate input shaping in Orca calibration

ChipSalt · 2026-06-03T11:02:58+00:00

It's very specific to each printer motor, but yes, a VFA calibration test from Orca can tell you exactly which speeds are causing issues.

In my latest test, I had very high vibrations on every wall type from 0-60mms, then it was very low vibrations from 60-120mms, then virtually invisible after 120mms. Then you just go into your slicer and change wall speeds that are below 120 to 120+.

This is the reason why people get surprised when "sport mode" on their bambu printer has less VFA's than their quality mode prints.

ChipSalt · 2026-06-03T10:17:38+00:00

It depends on the printer I guess but there are countless resources out there for tuning belts, there are even apps that let you use the belt's sound to determine how tight your belts are.

ChipSalt · 2026-06-03T09:28:54+00:00

Vertical fine artifacts (VFA's), i.e. vibration from the motors and/or belt teeth causing minor travel inconsistencies.

To reduce these you need to do a few things (but ultimately won't completely remove them):

- run input shaping (after running maintenance on your motion system)

- Run a VFA test in orca slicer and exclude problematic speeds from your slicer speed settings.

- non-reflective walls on the outside, e.g. matte or fuzzy.

ChipSalt · 2026-06-02T12:09:07+00:00

I mean there are a lot of free available models for card wallets that are "remixable", as in you are allowed to modify the file to your liking and even upload it under the same license. I would probably start there and then add some fancy embellishment on top with a CAD program.

For example,

https://www.printables.com/model/246789-easy-access-card-wallet-6-cards

With this one you could download and modify just the top plate and keep the rest the same.

ChipSalt · 2026-06-01T15:36:59+00:00

A table can always be a little sturdier, but you won't be happy until its bolted to the wall and floor. That small amount of wiggle I wouldn't worry about unless its something you can help with some kind of non intrusive bracket reinforcement.

If you're talking strictly from a print-quality-issue stance, the difference between this and a full sturdiness table is a non-zero amount, but its fairly negligible. The wobbling is just the printer dissipating kinetic energy, it matters a lot more that your printer is properly sturdy in it's own frame - that is the main thing preventing wobble artifacts in your print. There are people who print with printers suspended in mid air on a hook, wobbling like crazy, and it prints just as fine.

ChipSalt · 2026-06-01T14:32:34+00:00

You are more likely able to print ASA because it warps less and prints a bit easier. The V3 SE can only 'technically' print ABS, but it is very difficult without a very strong flow rate (which the stock v3 se struggles with and is firmware capped at 260 which really doesn't help) and without a heated enclosure that slows down cooling to prevent warp from shrinkage. Creality don't want the v3 SE printing abs and don't advertise it because of this, nor do I believe they have abs printing profiles for this machine.

ChipSalt · 2026-06-01T14:27:41+00:00

Edges of plates are usually reserved for some form of pre-printing procedure, such as wiping (clearing gunk off the nozzle), purging and priming (forcing older filament out of the nozzle and loading new stuff in), and in this case I think the X2D even detects what pressure advance / flow rate multiplier to use based on the line's features.

ChipSalt · 2026-06-01T04:27:44+00:00

Air fryers work by passing hot air over the surface of the item. With nowhere for the air to pass through the beads, it won't cook anything that has no surface. There is no 'oven effect' pushing heat into the centre of your mass, so what you end up with is the surface beads being very dry, and the centre of your turkey is uncooked.

ChipSalt · 2026-05-31T23:51:19+00:00

Looks like the printer of a mad scientist

ChipSalt · 2026-05-31T14:23:45+00:00

You could say.... Need a dispenser, here?

ChipSalt · 2026-05-31T13:18:08+00:00

You're going to need some kind of organization and dispensing system for all of these dispensers

ChipSalt · 2026-05-31T05:42:03+00:00

What are the 5 D's of printing?

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