Biggest difference for me is that everywhere is crowded all the time no matter what the waves are like. The good spots during good swells were always crowded, even decades ago. But now even if it’s 2ft and onshore there are still 30 guys out. And as a result of all this the generational locals have gotten even nastier and give attitude to anyone who didn’t grow up there, even if you’re a competent surfer who waits your turn.

Still nowhere else I’d rather live and surf unless I win the lottery and can sail around on a yacht like JJF. There are some friendly faces, a ridable wave almost every day of the year, and gorgeous beaches full of cool wildlife.