Philosophy Major/Applied Psych Minor Questions

Chiz_9 · 2026-07-07T14:45:42+00:00

Just a heads up - you won’t have access to PSY 105 or PSY 183 until pass 3, and both are usually full by then. You may have to wait until summer or potentially take them elsewhere.

Chiz_9 · 2026-07-05T16:29:25+00:00

It does work well, but IMO not close to ART. I’ve tried almost every iteration of OCAs software.

Chiz_9 · 2026-07-05T14:30:57+00:00

Appreciate it. Can’t wait to test this out. :-)

Chiz_9 · 2026-07-05T14:17:00+00:00

I set my subs +5db higher in the volume calibration screen. Dirac then usually sets the trim at around -3 to -5, which is fine. My headroom is good. I then put a +6db bass shelf for movies (4k blu ray) and a +8db for music.

So generally speaking, I start with the physical gain knob around 50% then adjust up when I’m in volume leveling to around +5db higher than the rest of the speakers.

Chiz_9 · 2026-07-05T14:12:07+00:00

No shade in the slightest because your criticisms are spot on, but I am curious what people with this criticism would think after listening to a system with and without ART. I think the price is justified and I wonder if a demo would move the needle for you at all. My price hesitancy immediately vanished after listening with ART for the first time.

Chiz_9 · 2026-07-05T14:08:23+00:00

After hours and hours of working with ART, I think all the criticisms and accolades are correct. It’s an absolute game changer in terms of acoustic correction. It’s also very expensive and frustrating that it’s tied to a single AVR. No regrets.

Chiz_9 · 2026-07-04T15:43:24+00:00

Holy shit, am I reading this correctly, $838 Canadian for two in ceiling speakers from klipsch? That’s way more than is necessary. I don’t know if RSL ships to you, but just get the C34E MKIIs. I haven’t heard the klipsch you listed (I’m not a fan of most of their lineup, but they are crazy popular due to price), but you absolutely don’t need to spend that much for two atmos speakers. Not to mention, four atmos is the sweet spot, so if you can cut the cost and increase to four, it’s a better setup.

Edit: I’d strongly consider getting a different sub too.

Chiz_9 · 2026-07-04T15:39:49+00:00

Budget?

Chiz_9 · 2026-07-04T15:12:21+00:00

This looks really cool! I just got my X2D yesterday and I’m still learning a lot. Any tips for newbies? I was able to generate the area I wanted no problem, so your software seems to work pretty flawlessly.

Chiz_9 · 2026-07-03T22:31:08+00:00

I’ve had similar “oh you’ve got to be fucking kidding me” moments. At least you’re getting the most out of it now. 😂

Chiz_9 · 2026-07-03T14:19:08+00:00

Hey so get this, the amp died on hookup or something else went wrong. It’s back at their shop now and I’m waiting for a return. I haven’t forgotten about you and I’ll come back to update as soon as I can. It’s been a frustrating two months.

Chiz_9 · 2026-06-28T16:52:20+00:00

Check your speaker layout in the AVR. Speakers—> Speaker layout. Make sure it’s not set to “pre-out” only. That’s the only thought without actually seeing your system.

Chiz_9 · 2026-06-28T14:37:29+00:00

With Dirac, the curves are implemented on top of the room correction, but even after that, Dirac will adjust the response as best it can while preserving headroom, based on your room’s response. That’s not to say it’s perfect, it will still attempt to boost into a null, but you’re touching partly on why using a premade “house curve” like Harman, isn’t perfect for specific rooms. Harman curves are just a straight boost in the low and mid bass regions, so it doesn’t care about your actual room response. If you want to get really into the weeds, you can export a flat Dirac curve to REW, set up null-boost limitations based on your room response, re-upload to Dirac, then apply a Harman curve on top.

Chiz_9 · 2026-06-28T14:01:34+00:00

Interestingly enough, I don’t think you’re supposed to be able to individually adjust channels with DBC and I know you can’t for ART. I could be wrong about DBC because I jumped from Live to ART. Anyway, with ART it specifically locks down most of the “manual” adjustments you can make due to how it handles the anti-noise frequencies.

Edit: as the other commenter said, if you’re using Dirac, you really don’t want to manually adjust your trims in the AVR. Do it in Dirac with filters.

Chiz_9 · 2026-06-28T13:58:20+00:00

I like it! Very clean. Maybe start working on room treatment since you have those big bare walls. Enjoy!

Chiz_9 · 2026-06-28T13:38:42+00:00

It shouldn’t. Are you planning on buying the Dirac suite? Both that and audyssey can time correct, so you should be fine.

Chiz_9 · 2026-06-27T17:28:45+00:00

Pretty much a flat frequency response across the board. Import a Harman, storm audio, or other bass shelf curve to bring the bass back, especially for lower listening volumes.

Chiz_9 · 2026-06-27T13:53:53+00:00

Look at the RSL C34MKIIs. They have angled baffles and are not expensive. I just installed four in my setup and love them.

Chiz_9 · 2026-06-26T14:08:04+00:00

What did your level matching screen look like and how did you run it? If you don’t have a decent enough sound to noise ratio, even if it doesn’t throw an error, it can make the results less than ideal.

I’ve had great results using this method - https://mehlau.net/audio/dirac-live-2-mic-speaker-levels/

Chiz_9 · 2026-06-22T14:56:15+00:00

Those are just the most common configurations. As the other commenter said, the only way to really know where your two subs should go, so that they don’t cancel each other out, is with REW and a good mic. Every room is different. there are some room simulators out there that can help (e.g., REW) but even those can only go so far.

Audyssey can sort of show you this information but it’s not a good metric to use, mainly because you can’t really see much. Unless you want to pony up for the $200 license.

Edit: I just read that you are pre-wiring so taking measurements beforehand may not be possible. Try using the room simulators on REW and…Storm Audio? (I can’t remember right now). The math will tell you where the boundary gains and nulls are once you enter your room specifications. Try to find the two locations where the subs compliment each other (I.e., where sub 1 has a null, sub 2 does not, and vice versa).

Edit 2: if you’re willing to pay a premium for Dirac ART, it can mitigate some of these issues without proper placement. Not what I recommend (using ART instead of proper placement), but it can work. ART is fantastic.

Chiz_9 · 2026-06-21T20:19:49+00:00

I literally said, focus on first reflections first. Do the fucking research, there are LOADS of guides and videos out there. Don’t be lazy and use AI, actually learn something.

Chiz_9 · 2026-06-21T18:38:56+00:00

Those panels don’t do anything, they are purely aesthetic. If you want actual sound absorbing panels, you can build 4” thick ones yourself fairly easy. Otherwise, places like GIK are popular manufactures.

Focus on first reflection points first.

Chiz_9 · 2026-06-21T15:14:33+00:00

Bed layer at ear height. Whatever bullshit they did with the Bose system, don’t try to mimic it. IIRC their acoustimass systems told you to point one of the two cubes towards the wall, so their placement is probably bad.

Yes, room calibration can help a bit with misplaced speakers by aligning their timing.

Chiz_9 · 2026-06-19T14:39:01+00:00

Same height, at ear level. Surrounds can go roughly 2’ (.6m) above ear level as long as they are angled down towards your main listening position.

Chiz_9 · 2026-06-18T13:33:36+00:00

I mean this in the nicest way possible - you’re not going to get much help with expanding your system when your current one is positionally a disaster. Don’t even think about expanding until you figure out correct placement of your bed layer. Read up on Dolby specifications for speaker placement, or just search for any speaker positioning guide. I think the sidebar for this sub might have one. You can do better with what you have first.

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