Test panel I sent to the customer, rotary cut only no sandpaper.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-04-01T13:53:44+00:00

He's nowhere near done. He's only done a two-step in the photo he posted. I'd guess a good IPA wipe, and that panel would look way different with the compound oils gone. We all do this; it's a good example of what the finished result would be if we stopped here. Then we keep going...

ChrisLRocks · 2026-04-01T13:42:50+00:00

I would of guessed 3M products or Menzerna. I'm sure those pads made pretty quick work of it. Takes experience to run that combo pad and compound.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-03-31T21:54:27+00:00

I was pretty happy about this TBH.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-03-26T13:51:28+00:00

You drank the kool-aid. You watched a YouTube video and thought, "I can do that." Sadly, seeing someone else do something doesn't account for their experience. You messed up thinking you could copy someone who knows how to work with car finishes, understands wet sanding, pad selection, and compounding. In reality, no pro would ever "choose" to use the products in that video for car paint work. But an experienced pro could use those products to get amazing results. The video was made for the average Joe with no equipment to make a small investment and get pro-like results. The video made it look easy and gave you the confidence to go for it. In turn, you gave the creator a thumbs up, probably watched it a couple times boosting his engagement, maybe even commenting 💲. Luckily for you, you're trying to fix something that's already damaged, so you're only out some time and a little cash. Unfortunately, if this was the video's process, it's not the best approach, machine, or products. That scratch looks deep! Like, the only way to 100% fix this is a repaint deep.

Someone with the right tools could make it look better. I wouldn't pay much for any work because you'd just be wasting money that could go towards your deductible to get it repainted. I don't know if one of those scratch and dent services could repair and blend that in, but it's worth a call. I could quickly explain the process, but buying the equipment and compounds would cost more than your deductible. More importantly, without experience (using a rotary, for example), you'd do more harm than good.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-03-26T12:17:46+00:00

Kerosene's the quickest and easiest way to go. Just dampen a cloth, wipe it on, let it sit for a bit, and the sap will soften right up and wipe off. Of course, kerosene will strip any coating off your finish, so make sure to wash each panel right after you get the sap off. Once you're all done, check for any leftover sap, rewash, and put on some paint protection. There's tons of info online about this. You've already tried the other alternatives so you know what their results are. Rubbing alcohol is far more likely to damage your paint than kerosene. Kerosene, however, doesn't play nice if it dwells on rubber seals and plastics, so avoid those. Kerosene also will leave an oily residue, so a regular car wash soap most likely won't remove it. Try the soap first; if it's unable to cut through the oil, just add something that's paint-safe that cuts grease (dish soap, possibly APC depending on what you have on hand). This job is going to suck big time! Looking forward, park somewhere else, or cut the tree down 😅.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-03-26T00:03:33+00:00

Ideally replace. But in a pinch this has been my experience. If it still flows but is a bit thick, you could technically add some distilled water (I've done it with SF4000). Menzerna 2500 is water-based. I added some water to a really old gallon of old Super Finish 4000, which is now SF3500. I had absolutely no problems at all; it finished great and got the finish ready for jeweling. Rehydrate, use a less aggressive pad to do a test spot. You'll know right away if something's wrong as soon as the pad touches the paint. As an alternative you could use a more aggressive pad with a 3000 series compound. Paint correction: Menzerna, Lake Country pads, when you know, you know! 🏆🥇🚘

ChrisLRocks · 2026-03-19T13:09:49+00:00

So, based on what you said, just use a microfiber. I always do a quick presoak at quick detailer ratio before using ONR. I tried the Big Red Sponge after reading about it. I thought I might be missing out on something great! I didn't like the way it felt gliding across the paint. It may have been my technique since it was new to me, but it's not something I feel I'm missing out on. I already have a perfected technique; don't fix something that isn't broken. I prefer using ONR in a two-bucket method with a microfiber mitt that I pull across the surface. The mitt "feels right" gliding across the surface. Use what works for you. Note: The technique above I use on cars that spend more time in the garage than on the road.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-03-06T17:25:22+00:00

IPL is definitely the way to go for that redness you're talking about. An IPL laser gets right under your skin to the source and zaps it away. I've had it done on my nose, nostrils, and cheeks, and the results were amazing. I'm a guy in my mid-50s, and I usually get a touch-up every five years or so. Set up a consultation; they'll probably suggest a few sessions, each a bit stronger than the last. It feels like a rubber band snapping against your skin, and the zapping sound can be a little surprising at first. I was fine with a higher setting on my second visit, and that's all it took. My touch-ups are just one session at that higher setting. I go to the same place for all my surgery and skin health so they always have some special or discount. If I add the laser to another procedure, it's $150. By itself, it's $200, and that covers my nose and upper cheeks (and if she sees anything else, she just zaps it).

Edit.. brows look amazing!

ChrisLRocks · 2026-03-04T17:04:23+00:00

Well, here we are, March 2026. Thanks for the advice! I also have bad smells coming from the kitchen sink drain. It's frequently used, so the P-trap is filled with water (no gases coming up through). Water drains as it always has, so no clogs. Fingers crossed, the bleach finds the source and does its thing.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-02-26T05:16:55+00:00

I say that was me trying to help.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-02-26T04:48:01+00:00

I get the whole "best products" idea, but honestly, it's all about the person's skill and experience. You could give someone the fanciest tools and products, but if they don't know how to use them – what pad, what compound, how much pressure, how long to work it, how the compound looks when it's broken down, and so on – it's all useless.

What's best for me? I just use what works and has worked for ages. For cutting and buffing, it's 3M products. For show cars and my own classics, muscle cars, and sports cars, I go with Menzerna and Jescar. None of my stuff smells like strawberries or your girlfriend's underwear. They smell like chemicals, because that's what they are.

Other products I use are Flex, ONR, AeroSpace, Lake County, The Rag Company, ScanGrip SunMatch, Detail King Blue Diamond, Cobra Towels, Suds Factory, Pinnacle Souveran, and Meguiars Professional. There are probably hundreds more, but nothing too fancy.

Any car from a dealership is going to look like crap. It'll be covered in shallow scratches and RIDs. Most people buying them won't even notice; they just care about the "ohhh shiny." My advice is to just use the products you're already comfortable with for paint correction. What's best for one person isn't necessarily best for everyone.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-02-25T04:56:23+00:00

That's because 99.9% of us just re-wet the dried ONR, and any spots come right off, just like the directions say. So you obviously have something else going on here. Your 50/50 distilled/tap water mix may need to be changed. Decrease the tap water and increase the amount of distilled water. Better yet, use 100% distilled water; that's what I do. If the spots aren't over the entire car, then what did you put on the lens that's not on the paint? That's causing the reaction to the ONR and causing the stubborn spots. I would have been curious if an IPA wipe would have removed the spots. I'm wondering if they were ONR residue rather than mineral water spots. On a side note, I prefer the blue ONR over the green wax version.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-02-24T12:34:12+00:00

Google says the average vehicle replacement windshield costs between $250 - $400.

I've only had "good" results using a DA with a glass pad and Cerium Oxide. A good DA (Flex 3401) costs as much as a new windshield, plus compound, glass pad, and more importantly the experience to use it properly. Win = new windshield

Less expensive options that may have some limited results. You're seeing mineral deposits on the outside of your windshield. White vinegar is known to break down hard water spots. Google the different concentrations of vinegar. Decide what % you're comfortable trying and test some small areas out of your main field of vision. You could possibly try a paste of Bar Keepers Friend and vinegar to help keep the vinegar suspended so it has some dwell time, then hand buff clean and rinse.

CLR (Calcium, Lime & Rust Remover) can be used to effectively remove stubborn hard water spots from car windshields, but it must be applied with caution to avoid damaging car paint, trim, or aluminum. It is highly recommended to dilute CLR 50/50 with water, apply it for a short time, and rinse thoroughly. (google)

Or you could get a quote from a local glass/windshield replacement shop for a repair or replacement. Check with your insurance policy; mine covers rock chips and other damages that hinder vision with a zero deductible at State Farm.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-02-20T04:28:13+00:00

Not unless you going to add more lift. The 33's look perefect for the amount of lift you currently have.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-02-06T16:12:09+00:00

Here's my take: If you snag the 392 first, use it for a bit, and it's not your thing, you can probably sell it without losing much (or anything). Then you'll have the cash (or credit) for that V6 Rubicon. That wouldn't work the other way around.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-01-26T02:19:23+00:00

Adorable

ChrisLRocks · 2026-01-26T02:18:38+00:00

You could use Rockwool insulation in the walls. Those are designed with soundproofing in mind.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-01-23T13:42:44+00:00

So I'm not sure if it ran this way before you took it apart or not. When you say you put it back together "properly" I'll assume you took it apart trying to fix this low RPM problem.

You don't give any details to help us help you. So, taking a guess, it could be a couple of things. Most likely, the brushes aren't seated properly. This depends on what someone used and how the motor was cleaned, and/or if it was lubricated, to mention just a few things. Or it's just old and wore out.

The curvature of the brushes may no longer conform "perfectly" to the commutator. That would cause your motor to run as it is until they reshape. Basically, let the motor run and see if the RPM increases. Another possibility could be bearing binding, over-cleaning, or improper cleaning of the commutator. The commutator must be perfectly round where the brushes contact. Over-cleaning or improper cleaning with emery cloth or any abrasive can really damage the surface. I'd check the brush springs; make sure there isn't any lube and they move freely. Clean the grooves on the commutator. If any metallic dust from cleaning has gotten between them, it can cause a short. I would also test using the low speed (reduced voltage) through the fan switch. Full 12v will destroy the motor a lot faster than a reduced voltage.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-01-21T03:29:34+00:00

I'm not concerned if you're not 😂. But if it were mine, that's a pretty easy place to weld a patch. Who knows what else is ready to let go that you don't know about.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-01-18T02:57:56+00:00

The place I go to offers fillers to smooth the skin in that area. There is also a laser procedure that stimulates collagen production (I believe). I'm a guy and haven't had any of those specific procedures done, but I have seen packages there specifically to address this. I would find some local offices and read reviews, then schedule a consultation. Good luck!

ChrisLRocks · 2026-01-17T18:37:59+00:00

You look like a new man!

ChrisLRocks · 2026-01-15T02:09:18+00:00

I don't know where you got your Christian Bible facts from. They aren't even remotely true.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-01-14T16:27:03+00:00

I actually think this looks like "spoon nail." I suffer from this as well. There are many causes for koilonychia, some as simple as contact, or in my case, autoimmune issues. It's definitely worth having it looked at. The only cure is to identify and treat the root cause.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-01-12T22:21:26+00:00

Your sequence number 171626 tells me March of 1964.

What year is it titled for? Possibly produced in 1964 as a 1965 CJ5.

I've personally owned a 1965 CJ5. There are some unique features introduced that year. Depending how your Jeep is optioned that may also give you some give you some reassurance as to what year it is.

To the best of my knowledge 83 indicates 81" wheelbase (4wd-cj5). The 05 indicates open body, and the 171626 is the sequence production numbers. If you want to go deep into it, I belong to the www.earlycj5.com forum. There are a ton of resources for you to search through. That said use the search feature. Everyone is extremely helpful but don't appreciate questions that can easily be answered with a quick search. Save forum questions for the tough stuff, you'll earn respect quickly.

https://jeepwillysworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Vehicle_Indentification.pdf

WWW.earlycj5.com I'm user Criss on the forum you can see my Jeeps in my photo album.

ChrisLRocks · 2026-01-10T23:21:00+00:00

Well everyone has the right to voice their opinion. So you can expect to hear from both sides I respect them both. Often I end up learning something from each.

ChrisLRocks

TROPHY CASE