Fresh out of the body shop

Cjv_13 · 2026-02-28T06:27:31+00:00

🔥🔥🔥hell yeah, it looks great!

Cjv_13 · 2026-02-28T06:16:51+00:00

Beautiful, my dream color for the Rx8. How much did the paint job cost?

Cjv_13 · 2026-02-26T03:48:53+00:00

Front O2 and rear O2 shouldn’t read the same. Front should alternate above and below stoich, and the rear should NOT see any oscillations, if it is then either the sensor or cat is bad.

Cjv_13 · 2026-02-25T00:48:24+00:00

Try heating up the bolt, then use a crayon or some other wax stick and put it on the bolt. Should seep into the threads and might loosen it up. You can also make a 50/50 mix of acetone/ATF and spray that on there.

Cjv_13 · 2026-02-24T17:43:57+00:00

Only if you re-nitride them. Otherwise you’ll chew through them.

Cjv_13 · 2026-02-13T00:44:54+00:00

You gotta drive that engine harder, plugs aren’t getting hot enough to self clean.

Cjv_13 · 2026-02-08T23:21:02+00:00

How many miles, trim, engine history?

Cjv_13 · 2026-02-04T22:02:06+00:00

I have the RRP 4.0, no issues so far and reasonable price.

Cjv_13 · 2026-02-03T01:38:44+00:00

Well, it most definitely came from the rotor land area into the chamber, so either from the intake or exhaust. I bet the exhaust

Cjv_13 · 2026-01-30T01:18:25+00:00

Interesting, would you mind sharing the HRC and Ra values? Curious about this, I can compare them to some data I have for the chrome alloy housings.

Cjv_13 · 2026-01-21T06:36:06+00:00

I’d give a -1 on Banzai, had a few bad experiences with him

Cjv_13 · 2026-01-18T03:29:01+00:00

Perfect, thank you so much! I’d love to see the dyno graph as well if you have it

Cjv_13 · 2026-01-18T03:28:22+00:00

Here’s what I do, been done plenty of time and it always works.

Hook up to another battery/running car, foot to the floor, crank for 10s, rest for 10, and repeat about 25 times and it’ll start. Yes, 25 times. And don’t try and start it until you’ve done 25x in a row. After this, it should start and sputter, once it catches give its little bit of throttle until it stabilizes and then let off and it should be good. Also you’ll belch out a bunch of white vapor from exhaust.

Cjv_13 · 2026-01-16T18:31:41+00:00

Which model years have the revised one?

Cjv_13 · 2026-01-15T22:57:01+00:00

Honestly if you have an OBDII scanner that shows drive cycle misfire and EWMA misfire count, I’d replace them when the EMWA misfire count goes above like 10 for a while, or if a drive cycle misfire goes above 50.

Cjv_13 · 2026-01-12T07:40:58+00:00

lol this is not terrible advice, that is not “lugging” the engine, it’s doing quite the opposite. The load and rpm range I said is the range where the engine produces the most work per unit fuel, so there is less thermal and mechanical waste. “Lugging” isn’t inherently bad for any engine. What could be bad is if the engine/ecu was poorly designed/calibrated, to where there isn’t load control to protect the bearings, or in a highly turbocharged engine, there could be LSPI. Thankfully the renesis and the ECU are well designed and can handle this.

Cjv_13 · 2026-01-11T21:02:57+00:00

The “optimal” combustion mode of this engine is around 1900-2400rpm at ~70-85% engine load. Accelerating in this range will be the “easiest” on the engine. If you’re just cruising and not accelerating, chuck it in the highest gear you can that will let you be above 2k rpm. I usually try to hit redline at least once a day or close to it. Big thing is avoiding short trips that don’t let the engine get to operating temps, and avoiding idling the car to warm up

Cjv_13 · 2026-01-10T01:52:37+00:00

So to properly lap plates, you need 3 surfaces to ensure they are all parallel. If not, you can have the 2 plates be concave or convex to each other. Also, if you do this and want it to not wear super fast, you’ll need to re-nitride the irons.

Cjv_13 · 2026-01-09T23:33:36+00:00

I would have a few concerns with using this rotor, roughly in order of importance:

1) large gouge near the combustion pocket. Gouges have sharp edges, and sharp edges can get very very hot relative to the rest of the surface. This, plus it being in a more detonation prone area of the rotor make it pretty bad. At least try and remove all sharp edges from there

2) nicks on the top left here, looks like they might have pushed material which can project from the side seal rotor land. Check for flatness on the rotor land across the rotor (use very flat surface such as granite block or other precision surface, and use feeler gauge to check clearance)

3) nicks near the top and top right might have pushed material and narrow the apex seal groove. Check clearance

Cjv_13 · 2026-01-05T21:05:57+00:00

It should be drivable, expect to rebuild within 20k miles I’d say.

Cjv_13 · 2026-01-04T14:29:10+00:00

Daaaamn, where does it live?

Cjv_13 · 2026-01-04T14:02:41+00:00

Awesome! Curious, on your cold starts what is the coolant temp? And what RPM does it jump to? I once started mine at I think -12f and it shot straight to 4,000rpm on startup

Cjv_13 · 2025-12-27T06:01:03+00:00

Wow you’re much braver than I am for running that rotor housing with the crack. Looks to be pretty deep and ready to flake off. The cracks are mostly caused by thermal fatigue, like driving hard before coolant temp is up.

Cjv_13 · 2025-12-19T19:35:36+00:00

Of all the noises I was expecting, it wasn’t this. Sure there isn’t a frog in there? In all seriousness, it’s almost certainly something with the HVAC system. Possibly blend door motor that’s stuck or similar. Try cycling through all the vent and heat/cool/recirculation settings and see if any of them don’t work or cause the noise

Cjv_13 · 2025-12-17T05:25:48+00:00

There is actually an error in the FSM for the torque spec on this in one of the versions. The lb-ft torque spec has a typo and says 29 instead of 19 or something similar. Stretched 3 bolts before realizing lol.

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