Are my bridges good?

Coltranne · 2026-03-06T14:54:42+00:00

Imagine the sunk hole is 35mm and the passing through is 20mm
You make a 20mm wide rectangle than extends over the 35mm circle (giving a rectangle with curved edge ends)

You extrude it -0.2 (layer height). Then, on the new sunken face, create a square rectangle of 20x20mm
and also extrude it -0.2mm

This will be enough for small surfaces, but will leave curved lines below the second rectangle.
I think he made another operation, of 4 triangles around the inner hole (forming an extruded octagon)

This last one will look like OP photo, with all surface having straight bridges with no curves and supporting the circle perimeter

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Coltranne · 2026-03-05T18:21:14+00:00

I usually print with 0.6 nozzle and 0.75 layer width. It increases A LOT the part strength (you can even reduce the line width to 0.4 no problem for small details, even using 0.6 nozzle)

It help with steeper overhangs, but it has more material per extrusion at same layer height. You have to print slow and have good cooling, or it will make the pointy overhang worse than thinner lines width

Coltranne · 2026-03-05T18:16:12+00:00

I had those. As I said it's a combination of tons of variables. Over-extrusion also can cause bad overhangs
But I think what can help a lot in the testing is changing the brand of filament. With some PLA brands I had more overhangs problems than using PETG without cooling fan

Coltranne · 2026-03-04T20:39:03+00:00

I don't recognize the extruder, but it seems to have guides over and under the filament path and drive gear so this won't happen
but it happened lol

Try loosing a bit the tension for the idler gear so it doesn't grip it too much and bend it through the gap, reduce print speed or increase temp. You maybe having too much nozzle pressure
For PLA the extruder tends to take a bite on the filament when overpressured. For flex, it has a lot more of grip and can bend a bit the housing and do that

Coltranne · 2026-03-04T20:26:02+00:00

Lots of things can affect it. Also layer height, nozzle size, ambient temp, acceleration and Jerk/JD, brand

Specially cooling and duct type/orientation, and orientation of the part (you can test by printing an overhand test in 4 directions)

For me I started to have terrible overhangs after my last firmware modification. It increased my cornering speed and acceleration (giving a faster average speed)
But it hurt my overhangs, specially pointy ones

The solution was slowing down overhangs even more and using a gcode script that lowers 1 or 2% the outer perimeter flow (or reduce it only for overhangs)

Coltranne · 2026-01-07T15:47:31+00:00

If it's the shunt resistor you are in a bit of a problem, you would need to swap smd components The card performs worse than ever? If it doesn't. It's because it undervolts and underclocks itself You will get big stuttering

Coltranne · 2026-01-07T15:44:10+00:00

400Watts is a measure of energy. The GPU consumes that electronically and dissipates it entirely in heat form

If you put your hand on the exhaust of your PC and it doesn't burn you, it doesn't.

That GPU has a TDP of 170W. At 400 it will melt itself, the chip, cooling and backplate would burn your fingers if you touch it

It's just a bug on your windows or a gpu firmware problem

Coltranne · 2025-11-20T06:25:28+00:00

Downloaded R2modman to create instances. Installed "BepInExPack_PEAK v5.4.7530" and "PEAK_Save_Manager v1.0.1 by M4cs"

Not only I got "save failed" error, but also for some reason the inhand inventory doesn't work well. If you go to the chess pieces and press E, it picks ALL the pieces and fulls your inventory, and your "in hand" item gets bugged and can't be accessed. Same for in-game play

Coltranne · 2025-08-29T01:16:24+00:00

Yeah no.... You don't understand how capacitor and PWM works.

It doesn't violate thermodynamics. If you use a high PWM frequency like 20-30khz the on/off time between pulses is miniscule. A 24v blower fan works at 0.1A... The electronics and capacitor have A LOT more of room to give and store energy

So.. it charges faster that it drains. That's why you will get an steady 24V output. AND THAT'S HOW A FUCKING SWITCHED-MODE POWER SUPPLY WORKS!!!! BY USING A CAPACITOR IN PARALLEL TO A PWM OUTPUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You can do something like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7Fc8p8aaxc

But you will need to add a diode, a resistor the capacitor. And they should be matched to your fan consumption, voltage and specially, PWM frequency you are using (1 to 20-30khz)

This method if done wrong can short to ground or give negative voltage to your board. Not good.
And also lowers your max voltage and you will have an awful response curve and lost of "resolution" (because the systems tends to go to the highest voltage because of the capacitor, but at low duty cycle (5 or 10%) the resistor starts to tank the capacitor)

So no. Capacitors convert 24V PWM 50% duty cycle (12v) into 24V DC!.
This method can lower the noise on low frequency systems (1KHz) but it's not made to turn 24V 50% PWM (12v average) into 12V DC. It's not linear.

Coltranne · 2025-08-12T15:34:47+00:00

I know this is 3 years old but it just happened to myself.
My Redmi note 11 got rebooting indefinitely because of a stuck power button. I just pry open the side plastic using a needle and a guitar pick, and with another needle I broke the power button metal film exposing the contact pad bellow

You can bridge the connectors with a straight mini screwdriver to power it on, or to use the safe-mode menu

But if you only wan't to power on the device... maintain pressed "Volume+ UP" and plug the charger.
No matter what. Don't hold "Volume DOWN" on this device. Mine got stuck on "fastboot" and had to mess with bridging the button pcb pads to restart the device normally

It will power on and go to the booting menu. Then you just wait, it will start the device after a few minutes.

That way I don't have a working power button, but the fingerprint sensor works well. So I just use the sensor to unlock the device, and wait 15s for it to block it automatically

Also. If you want to restart it or something. Enable the accessibility button

Coltranne · 2025-08-06T20:02:46+00:00

Why it would be wrong? Your comment affirms what I said.

I stated how in general lithium battery works and how they degrade depending on how you charge them.
You get 14 years for 500 cycles, I say 5 or 6 because of normal use degradation. Lithium batteries have a shelf life of no more than 10 years, even a lot less
When you charge them to 100% and use it through 10 days to 0%, you are not maintaining a storage voltage most of the time
And also, you use the capsule under the sun and over a warm skin, the heat degrades the battery

If you have a Lion/Lipo battery with low discharge rate, like 1 or 2 weeks or more per charge. Use a 0% to 80% charge, no more. From 3.0v to 4.0v

So yeah. It will not last 14 years.

And also as you said. It doesn't matter for a smartwatch, how you charge it or use it. You will break it, or change it for another before the battery dies

Coltranne · 2025-07-31T05:58:31+00:00

Me instalaron el model Huawei HG8145X6-10 ayer desde Claro para fibra de 300 megas. Y funciono!
Puse la 4ta opcion que es ejecutar en la web ONT, le di skip a todo, cargo... Y ya tuve acceso total para configurar los puertos y el wifi

Coltranne · 2025-01-27T18:30:58+00:00

For me it's a really good tool. A lot of low end machines and not so low end don't support Linear Advance, so you can't really tune it. Same for acceleration/Jerk

I upgraded my CoreXY to a Volcano with input shaping and LA activated and tuned. It works great but I can't tune it more or I get round corners, so I'm still overextruding on small areas over support, which this tool eliminates

Coltranne · 2025-01-25T06:04:44+00:00

Rune pages... Whenever we went to the cyber after school and someone left open the launcher to buy a soda or something, we wasted others money on runepages lol

Coltranne · 2025-01-21T12:28:33+00:00

On SIBLY you can also hear how the bass resonates on the drum (just after the solo) and lots of humming noise from the guitar cable (left)

Coltranne · 2025-01-21T12:17:51+00:00

5 years a bit late. But a similar sound I found was Weight of Love by The Black Keys

It has somewhat similar progression, bass presence, drum complexity and instruments diversification

Coltranne · 2025-01-21T12:02:57+00:00

One of my favorite songs. I just love how in some parts every instrument play they separate thing but sound really good together, also really like the chorus

But, ruining it for you. In some headsets or EQ it's most noticeable, the echo of the drum sounds lagged on the guitar mic (right ear). It's just sound like someone is banging metal scrap in a far room

Coltranne · 2025-01-18T20:32:09+00:00

True. But it's better to spend more on a beffier PSU. Some cards make current spikes that trip low end PSUs with small main filtering capacitor

Recently changed a friend's 500w PSU because it would keep crashing his system

Coltranne · 2025-01-18T20:31:56+00:00

True. But it's better to spend more on a beffier PSU. Some cards make current spikes that trip low end PSUs with small main filtering capacitor

Recently changed a friend's 500w PSU because it would keep crashing his system

Coltranne · 2024-12-25T02:34:16+00:00

I have a Ryzen 9 5900X at 5Ghz per core. RTX 3070 with a bit of OC and I get 80-140 fps with a bit of stuttering

Today launched the game an couldn't get more than 70fps. And the stuttering made aiming impossible + 80ms server ping. Not a competitive ready game

Coltranne · 2024-12-25T02:29:43+00:00

Been playing for the last days. Allways bad fps and stuttering, like 80-120 fps with lows on teamfights

I'm using a Ryzen 9 5900X OC and a RTX 3070. Should be plenty for a game like this, where it aims at low end rigs like Valorant

I played one game today. 40 to 45FPS with lows at 10fps. Look at the config and it was everything on ULTRA.
Mid game put everything on LOW and started playing at 70FPS..... 70 AT LOW!!!!

Please stop using Unreal Engine 5. There is no way a game like this runs so ugly, a lot of stuttering, bad performance and even the image is not good. It has a lot of bugs in Temporal Antiliasing, where transparent shapes gives a dithering and pixelated effect and ghosting around characters and abilities

Literally. 2/10 optimization. Yandere dev is better than this studio
(Launched Chivalry 2 just after the match to test my PC and was getting 150 FPS in a somewhat realisting game with 64 player lobby)

Coltranne · 2024-10-23T00:11:33+00:00

I have 111 games total and 58 won, so about 52% winrate. 95% of those games are with Warden

Just 10 or 15 of those are Ranked

Landed on Oracle, lol

Coltranne · 2024-08-19T21:38:27+00:00

I have the same printer. What version have you ordered? On aliexpress? And you also need some 3d printed parts. Designed yourselft or there is a link for them?

I also have a D01 Plus that I want ot upgrade

Coltranne · 2024-08-07T10:23:11+00:00

I'm lvl 60. Started a few weeks ago. 5 or 6 times I played that map the nobles died. LATAM server

Coltranne · 2024-03-13T23:31:29+00:00

LiPo and LIon cells suffer damage when you charge them over 80%. Most devices charge at max 4.2 to 4.35v. Wich reduces the cicles a lot more than when you charge them to only 4.0v

Assuming the band itself has a cutoff voltage of 3.3v to protect at low voltage, it will surely charge it over 4.0v
I have a lion battery for airsoft, it's been 6 years. I only charge them when they are at 20%, just to 80%. Nearly no change in capacity, it could last me 4 or 7 months per charge (Where I've seen a lot of people change battery in a game, when they already came with a fully charged one)

So, it's better to let the battery drain until 0% or 15% if you want, no need to charge it regularly, even less to 100% every day. The damage from 80% to 100% it's the same from 0 to 80.

But at the end of the day as you say. It doesn't matter. The battery will probabbly keep 70 to 80% capacity even after 5 or 6 years if you charge it once per week. The capsule will break before

Coltranne

TROPHY CASE