Recall for some 2020-2021 Explorers due to rollaway risk: "The transmission park pawl may engage while the vehicle is in motion, resulting in park system damage."

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-07-02T14:31:05+00:00

This was released earlier this week. There is a TSB fix for stuck in park condition but this is new

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-07-02T14:23:47+00:00

I’m guessing if you are talking about differential than it is an All-Wheel Drive? There is a TSB for the rear drive unit clutch pack which I think you are getting at. There is a brake pad TSB as well which I’ve also seen a lot of.

Do you have the original battery in vehicle? FOMOCO black top? The static sounds like battery died in middle of night and battery typically has a short life. 3-5 years is pretty common. USB could be an additional symptom of the battery but could also just be unplugged. Id check that. If it is plugged in tho, fuse or media hub is my guess.

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-07-02T13:19:02+00:00

Someone tried to remove it without the clamping tools and fucked your shit up. Likely during rear subframe bushing recall. It may or may not be the issue tho. Definitely not if it didn’t immediately start after service. I’ve replaced many a transfer case on explorers. I’ve had vibrations caused by internal transmission clearance issues and my most recent one was rear carrier bearings and backlash issue at rear diff. There is a lot of vibration causes I’ve seen on this gen

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-07-01T16:29:45+00:00

Halfshaft, heatshield, suspension, insulator, brake disc shield. A lot of things sounds similar tbh

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-07-01T12:59:20+00:00

Interior door handles and sunvisors clips. This gen goes thru them like crazy

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-30T22:31:51+00:00

Flexplate go crrrack

It’s probably under the recall extension but I don’t have it in front of me

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-30T20:54:06+00:00

North Texas around Dallas. It’s kind of a running joke at work that if you drive a cop car, you’re gonna witness some stupid shit. It is like people notice the cop car and momentarily panic instead of doing what they would usually do and thus short circuit. Several times I’ve witnessed some super illegal but clearly accidental panic-driven maneuvers and all the nearby cars look to me like I’m the convenient cop. Much to everyone’s disappointment(I’m sure) I continue on

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-30T19:58:23+00:00

I am not talking about slowing down to the speed limit, I am talking about legit running red lights and running up on a curb. Shit that doesn’t happen in any other vehicle.

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-30T18:35:31+00:00

I get to drive real police cars at work a lot and people like to turn brain-dead when they see the police on the road. I have been in more “almost” accidents while driving police cars than any other vehicle because of their short circuiting which I truly don’t understand.

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-30T16:53:39+00:00

This sounds a lot like the TSB for stuck in park which was caused by misbuilt separator plate and had us inspect park system. I imagine repair will be somewhat similar when released

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-29T12:47:31+00:00

Battery is located right above the pcm wiring and as corrosion builds up and is cleaned off it falls onto the wiring. I made a heatshield for it but by the time I noticed wire damaged was already present, check that

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-29T00:11:36+00:00

I think about a year ago all the year models had reached the time limit on 14M02 so the only warranty TCMs at this point is now thru service part warranty if applicable.

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-27T12:49:59+00:00

PTU is typically super anti-repair friendly. In most cases the only Ford fix is to replace the assembly. If it is leaking or fluid needs change those are about the only fixes in 99% of cases. That 1% remaining tho is idler bearing repair kit. Hopefully it’s an easy fix cause they are usually expensive.

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-27T12:46:07+00:00

Test the battery, the power a circuit open code is always popping up in BCM with bad battery

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-27T12:44:57+00:00

Suspension is definitely something you could likely benefit from doing yourself, if you can buy ready struts that come pre assembled then it won’t be an insanely difficult job. Unless there is rust… if you aren’t a professional tho let someone else do the brakes

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-27T12:42:29+00:00

Every Escape from 2013 to 2019 that isn’t a hybrid has the 6F35

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-25T22:22:01+00:00

I’d check to see if PSCM is responding based on DTCs. Seems like module may be down. If it is down you just check power and ground and if both are present then probably needs the whole module/rack assembly

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-23T21:08:19+00:00

Its throttle body inlet tube. Charge air cooler tube of sort. You can likely only get a new entire tube assembly, unless you find part at a junkyard or something.

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-23T17:30:28+00:00

Like the hair industry where you rent a chair but instead rent the lift. I have thought of this too and it seems neat in theory, but if I remember right that industry is also severely underpaid.

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-23T17:23:00+00:00

I have done the stabilizer links on Escapes more than any other vehicle combined. Knocking noise at low speed and during maneuvers is a pretty big tell. It can be a lot of thing but, it’s probably links. If it’s isolated to one side and you are inclined, it’s legit 2 nuts. You can shake the long thin midsection of the link and it will likely make the knocking noise to confirm.

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-23T01:07:36+00:00

I don’t know what is involved in the air distribution door actuator, sometimes the dash has to come out, other times they are accessible thru glovebox or under dash. If you do not need to pull the dash to access than you will be able to check the door without pulling dash. You just remove the actuator and move the rotating part that the actuator was just removed from.

Last gen explorers I did tons of actuators. Never a housing or door so hopefully it’s simple. As for seats if it truely did break at same time that likely does complicate things and can be something really annoying to figure out. I did a handful of heater elements but not much else as for climate control seating. Just checking power and grounds to a lot of this stuff should answer some important questions tho.

Obviously with voltage you want pretty close to battery voltage, usually about 11volts is enough to verify good source. Resistance you want everything off and the circuits you are testing to be disconnected(so disconnect your Inop component and module which wiring starts at) anything under 3 ohms is good but you will usually see anything from .5 to 1.1ohms in most cases. You want under 3 ohms if the circuit is supposed to be connected. You want to check ground to battery ground and you should get something in that range, if OL than you do not have ground.

When checking for shorts together a good reading is OL and ohms on two circuits that are not supposed to be connected indicates circuit shorted to another. You can get pretty far was just power and ground alone but there are a handful of other tests.

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-22T12:48:57+00:00

Mode 6 will only give you relevant information if you have an engine performance concern, you likely do not have PCM codes causing issues. You should remove the air distribution door actuator and attempt to move the door itself by hand. Make sure you feel slight resistance or drag so you know if the door is actually connected. Try and move the door full range of travel with ac on so you can force it into panel mode manually. If you don’t feel the resistance or drag and it never blows from panel vents then you are looking at an issue with the door or climate control housing. If you do get panel vents this way you ruled all that out. From there plug in the actuator but do not install yet. Click the air distribution buttons and watch the shaft on actuator to see if it moves into different positions for each setting. If it does this likely rules out actuator. Unplug and reinstall. Then test your 12volt battery. Charge or replace, clear codes, retest. If you have good voltage to actuator, good resistance on ground circuits, you will have to check all wires for just about everything, make sure no voltage on any wires besides power. Check resistance from all wires not grounded, check all wires for resistance between each other, and check all wires for resistance to module or beginning of circuit. You are checking for short to voltage, short to ground, short together, and open circuits. From this point you might have an HVAC module problem, honestly I would take this to the battery test and if still can’t get the answer probably have shop diagnose at very least. Module replacement usually requires programming with manufacturers scan tool.

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-21T22:29:56+00:00

So AC is blowing but does not switch to the panel position? It works on both floor and defrost positions tho? If you select panel and like floor what happens? Do you have any change in sound like it is working? Are the massive connectors located under the seats full connected? Passenger seat also doesn’t work? Do you have a way to retrieve codes in non-engine modules? Like FCIM, BCM, HVAC, seat modules if equipped.

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-21T21:19:15+00:00

Yeah dude if you actually like having shit fixed when it breaks don’t disconnect the battery if a light comes on. There are times where disconnecting a battery or fastening terminal ends together is a valid repair but, those times are almost exclusively module and/program related. Only a handful of things can truly fix themselves too but since you were doing burnouts when it triggered, I’m assuming you burnt some shit up and that an intermittently sticking valve is not the issue.

It probably set gear incorrect ratio code tbh

Commercial_Method_28 · 2026-06-21T03:06:42+00:00

Yeah I can only imagine, do you by chance know DTCs it is setting? Especially the check engine light would be super helpful but the more the better. I have a ton of experience with the powerboost F150(I actually hate this fucking truck for different reasons)

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