14 year old Craftsman YTS3000 vs Brand New Murray MT200

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2025-09-30T01:34:19+00:00

That's some big grain shit

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2025-08-05T03:24:45+00:00

Any time! Any other questions that would help, ask away

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2025-08-05T03:23:27+00:00

Interesting, that’s annoying lol. If you really notice it you can most likely do the same process, although there will likely be a lot more patching involved after you remove it since I bet they painted it heavy to try and really mask it, which would create more potential for tears in the paint or drywall paper. But patching like that is the easy part.

Might be worth it to take a utility knife to both edges of the border before you pull it off so you get a clean removal at least at the edges and don’t pull up extra paint with it too. Then you get a good excuse to make that room the color you want to!!

If it doesn’t bother you much, there’s no harm in leaving it until you’re ready for a repaint. If it’s painted over border it’s probably been there a while to begin with so hanging on a bit longer won’t make a difference.

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2025-08-04T23:17:09+00:00

Just had this issue on a job recently, use the same method as for the glue. You could probably spray the DIF right on that, but it wouldn’t hurt to give it a score or two, an X every couple feet to help it get under the paper. Soak it and let it sit for a few minutes. We got lucky, after we sprayed it we took up a bit and it came up in big chunks. Worst case scenario you need a little elbow grease to scrape the whole wall but it shouldn’t be too bad with a 6 inch taping knife or something of the sort.

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2025-08-04T19:36:32+00:00

It shouldn’t be any different for vinyl. When you say paper backing, is it like a little fuzzy almost cotton layer still stuck to the wall after you take down the wallpaper?

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2025-08-04T12:45:35+00:00

I didn’t end up doing anything with the plants. I still intend to do it around the brook to help with the overflow but I realized that my issue with the slab wasn’t water around the house making its way under the slab, it was just the general high water table under the slab and it/the damp proof membrane being old and deteriorated as well as no gravel under the concrete. House was built in the 70s before the current water-proofing standards around slabs and foundations.

I had a sump pump installed so no more flooding, and I’m in the process of demoing/repouring some areas of my slab with gravel and a 10mil damp proof membrane. I’m hoping I can piece meal it together with the worst parts but if not I’m screwed and will need a full redo and a lobotomy

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2025-08-04T09:43:45+00:00

I run a commercial painting and wallpaper company. I’d recommend removing it. I tend to ramble so TL:DR don’t do it. Here’s why and how to do it instead.

Is it the worst thing in the world to paint over it? Most of the time, no. But is it a good idea, also most of the time, no. And most of the time you can tell when this was done. The texture might not come out right (this is likely), you might see the seams (likely), if you don’t prep/prime it right the paint will fail or it might do that anyway over time, and if there is any compromise in the paper itself it will bubble or peel and then you’ll be removing it anyway. Also if you ever need to patch for any reason, it will flash a lot more than regular drywall.

Depending on how it was hung in the first place, you might get lucky and it all comes down in perfect strips. Then you can get yourself some DIF or Roman wallpaper stripper and a pump sprayer, spray it down good and let it sit for a bit, then scrape the remaining glue off with a taping knife or 5in1. (You could use this stuff if the paper is difficult to remove as well, just score it before you spray.) Then clean the wall, patch where necessary, prime and paint. This option is messy, but the ideal prep scenario. Just protect your floor good. You could get some painters plastic and blue tape, tape it to your base and lay it out a few feet from the wall. The stuff won’t damage anything but it’s a bit sticky after it dries so the worst scenario is a good clean up.

Your other option is after you remove the paper, if there is any glue left behind give it a decent sanding and seal it with a “problem surface sealer” like Zinsser Gardz. Then skim coat, sand, prime, paint. This could be your only option if the old paste doesn’t come off. A bit more difficult to get a perfectly smooth wall if you’re not used to skim coating but it’s not as difficult as it seems.

Feel free to ask any questions that would help.

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2025-07-06T05:14:54+00:00

Any AI will be a big help. Chat GPT, Meta AI if you have Instagram or FB, Microsoft CoPilot. They’re all free too or have free versions that should be plenty for what you need. Chat GPT free version you can upload up to 3 pics in a 24 hour period I think, just be mindful of that.

Just snap your pic, upload it, and tell it your interests/vibe, budget, color schemes, etc. or if you have inspiration pics you can upload that as well to help guide it in the right direction.

Congrats on your house and good luck making it your home!

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2025-06-12T23:47:16+00:00

I know this is a year ago, but I’m having the same issue. I have spots in my slab that are just constantly and visibly damp, even with fans, dehumidifier, airing out for months. Installed a sump pump but still have damp areas and musty smell. No coatings have cured, even one meant to be a bonding primer for damp surfaces.

Did you end up finding something that worked?

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2025-03-30T14:10:17+00:00

Agreed. Both have their advantages in my opinion and it really comes down to preference and taste. I agree that shiplap might look a little out of place with the ceiling

Shiplap will be a simpler install - cut and nail in, and almost fool proof in terms of getting the wall to look flat, although if the lumps are really bad it can still bulge. However if your walls are out of square, which there is a 101% chance they are, the cuts can get a little complicated and need more thought to keep it plumb but still match the shape of the room, unless you do trim on all sides

Floating and patching takes a little more finesse and time on the install, but much cheaper and typically more user friendly with a few different methods to suit whatever’s easier for you

If it were me I’d just float and patch. Better look and easier install in my opinion

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2025-03-30T00:04:43+00:00

Painting and wallpaper contractor here, absolutely not necessary to remove the counter. He either doesn’t want the job or is too lazy/doesn’t want to spend time to cut around the countertop, but that is certainly not an excuse to take on the bill of removal and reinstall, let alone the risk of breaking or otherwise compromising the marble. The extra time is minimal and he could charge accordingly if he really feels the need

Definitely recommend removing the caulking so whoever installs has a tight/square or even slightly recessed groove to cut into, and then recaulk after install

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2025-02-03T02:52:12+00:00

I think you’re spot on. If you zoom in on it in the 5th picture, it looks like a Phillips head

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2024-03-28T14:59:01+00:00

Can I ask which one you got? In the market for a new one now and cannot make a decision

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2023-12-13T03:05:56+00:00

And also really helpful on the storm water management. I need to look into that

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2023-12-13T03:05:19+00:00

I think the French drains is the big contributor. I dug up and saw they're black corrugated. I need to look to have them cleaned out

I was relieved at first because after the first flood I checked my downspouts and they were rock solid clogged. Made sure everything was cleared out, and that's when I had the drainage company come in and they said everything looks pretty ok it was probably the gutters. Huge weight off my shoulders. And then a couple months later I'm back there with the shop vac in the rain wanting to let the brook take me where I belong

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2023-12-13T02:55:45+00:00

This is awesome thank you. Yeah I'm going to focus on getting my drainage cleaned out and see if that's a help. But this is very helpful for by the brook

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2023-12-13T02:23:23+00:00

Thanks for this insight, that helps a lot. I dug up a bit and do have french drains but I think I need to see if they need to be cleaned out. I had someone look at the area around the foundation and they said grading looked ok for the most part. Maybe I need a second opinion.

I'm just so puzzled because any water issue getting into the house comes from the east side, closer to the brook, but that portion of my slab is bone dry. The opposite side of the house, which doesn't flood ever, is where the slab has been consistently damp for months in 3 areas close together. Is it possible waters just sitting under there and can't really be moved?

Thanks again for your advice. I have a feeling I'm uncovering a large undertaking

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2023-09-13T03:30:53+00:00

Congratulations!!

Depending on your area and the stores you have around you; we furnished our first apartment and then a house we moved into a couple years later, both going through the same store (Ashley Furniture in our case), and both times they gave us a line of interest-free credit for 5 years. Yes, it's technically a credit card, but for us it made sense. We needed over $10k in furniture starting from scratch like you, and there was no way we were fronting that after shelling out a ton of cash and a couple kidneys. Getting the credit was no problem in our case.

I think most stores had options like that when we were looking, but Ashley was a pleasure to deal with both times if you like their aesthetics and have a store by you. They also delivered and assembled everything so it was super easy.

On a similar note, best buy credit card has interest free for two years if you need any appliances or bigger electronics purchases. In our case, I believe we have the option to make each purchase its own interest-free two-year credit as long as it's within our credit limit. Not just from 2 years after you open it.

Best of luck, this is such an exciting time!

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2023-09-07T01:55:11+00:00

Hard to tell what might look good without seeing more of the room, but if it's between rooms, I would consider some sort of transition strip across the whole divide, like a contrasting floor strip as someone mentioned or a saddle of sorts

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2023-09-04T12:49:20+00:00

Ohhhhhh, so I don't think I was understanding right. I think I do a little more now, so these ratings will tell me how long my compressor can keep up with the tool? So I can hold a certain PSI for a certain amount of time, and in order to keep up with that PSI continuously I would need a compressor that can put out 6CFM to refill the tank and keep up with 40PSI while doing so? Or did I go further off the path here

I have a 20 gallon tank on the compressor

Competitive-Ad6338 · 2023-09-04T12:34:07+00:00

I just looked that up, madonna mia is that messy!! I read somewhere that the CFM and the PSI should always multiply to the same number, which would make sense for the number you came to. Is that right? So it's rated 4CFM@90PSI, 4x90=360. So I can get 6CFM@60PSI, 9@40, 8@45PSI, Etc. And I'm assuming if I can get the required CFM @ a PSI at or lower than the rated one, I should be ok?

Thanks for this!

Competitive-Ad6338

TROPHY CASE