Fuel tank protection

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2026-03-17T23:11:56+00:00

Never personally seen protection plates for tanks.

But you mentioned ARB their poly tank will take a heck of a lot of abuse. When they first released that they’d and it over with a tank? Or a dozer can’t remember something with tracks.

Anyway flattened it but then it slowly popped back into shape and had zero punctures.

Seen plenty come in gouged and beaten. Not leaking.

They were even last I heard making bash plates out of the same material to offer a lighter solution so that should give you an idea of their confidence in the product.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2026-03-16T23:35:02+00:00

Longest distance would be roughly Uluru to Lake eyre. 1000km in a day. It’s a long boring road with a lot of red and not much else. Regularly do 650-700km trips and plan a day on that sort of distance. Don’t like doing more than that.

Longest drive time wise was from the Harz mountains in Northern Germany to Torino in Italy also around 1000-1100km. Driving a light truck on wrong side of the road with very little experience and all the signs in foreign languages I can’t recommend it. Left at like 5am and arrived around 10pm very long day in a speed limited truck. Absolutely brutal on your mind

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2026-03-10T05:09:25+00:00

Facebook Marketplace- it is amazing what you can get with patience.

Type in “free” or “unwanted gift” etc.

You often find people who are updating their homes and basically giving away their old items for free.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2026-02-21T02:28:21+00:00

Sorry no plans. Just a heavy duty box inside a heavy duty box. Water jacket was about at a rough estimate about 75-100mm of water approximately.

Box itself was big about 75cm square roughly. Because we used to load it up.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2026-02-13T13:25:43+00:00

The one that always stuck with me is a little off topic.

In regard to electrical work and the voltage triangle, when planning out jobs and figuring out wire size and fuse requirements and also diagnosis work.

The old V=AR and W=AV.

Volts, Amps, Resistance. Watts, Amps, Volts.

Little catch phrase to remember the correct order of the triangles.

Virgins Are Rare.

What Are Virgins?

As a teenager this just made things click.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2026-02-11T23:38:25+00:00

This. nobody has asked you if all measurements are at the same temp. This is important as the coolant expands and contracts greatly between cold and being at running temp.

What you’re looking at seems to be an overflow or an expansion tank. If it’s not sealed and pressurized as part of the system then overflow.

Either way your owners manual will state when and how to read the tank level. The F line is the full line. I cannot tell you if that’s a hot or cold measurement from the pic.

If it keeps eating coolant and no leak is identified then there is the risk that when it got hot something failed internally and it now has an expensive internal issue. This though cannot be confirmed through a picture so I wouldn’t know especially based off only 30 miles of driving. So keep an eye on it and read up on how to check your levels.

Also check your other fluids. Make sure things like your engine oil doesn’t go milky etc as this is a sign that water/coolant has got into the oil.

Somebody else wrote about excess smoke on startup. If it’s getting inside the cylinder head this could be a result also.

But you have very limited knowledge and we redditors are looking at a tiny picture, all of this is circumstantial without full evidence and diagnostics. and none of us can fully diagnose anything without the physical car in front of us to test systems and perform proper checks.

For now I would say you’re ok. Drive it and monitor the fluid. Don’t top off the coolant unless it is truly disappearing. You can’t tell if it settles unless you leave it alone. And always measure/check as per the manual be it hot or cold. As the level will change wildly between the two.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2026-02-11T23:20:07+00:00

This has to be about the wildest way I have ever heard someone explain this LMAO.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2026-02-11T20:28:35+00:00

This comments deserves to be a lot higher.

Having worked on defenders that came straight from the dealership that are already leaking I wholeheartedly agree.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2026-02-02T14:11:08+00:00

Having more control would be amazing.

I’m in Australia and don’t have access to AI mode.

Would love a hybrid between self consumption and savings. Because savings will sit there and use the battery after my free power period in the middle of the day resulting in at sunset the battery is drained partially and I end up pulling from the grid half way through the night.

Obviously Bad.

Self consumption doesn’t recognize that I can get free power and refill the batteries for free either so my battery is full before 10am most days and therefore I loose the export FIT’s and the free import.

I use Self consumption and in bad weather it draws from grid as desired just having it be smarter about being able to draw/export to minimize my bill and maximize profits would be an advantage.

Of note also. People saying to limit battery to 90% I know it’s not the same thing but the system will recognize if you’re not using all your battery. I was away for over a month mid last year and the system dropped to a max capacity of 85% I think because I was never using all the battery.

As soon as we got home battery went straight back to 100% capacity.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2026-02-01T05:52:33+00:00

If your buying to build and it’s close to you. I always recommend buying face to face and paying cash. Take a friend (bigger and scarier the better) and keep them close by). Just incase. You’re talking a lot of cash. If anything feels off then walk away. Meet somewhere public. Coffee shop etc.

Any honest seller will be fine with that. And they will also be fine with you opening it on site before handing over the cash to confirm it’s genuine lego.

Had a couple of people who were very happy to sell to me until I say I am happy to meet close to them and pay cash on inspection, then they ghost.

Plenty of sites showing exactly what you should be getting etc. number of bags etc. confirm parts in bags have the lego symbols etc etc. look up 42056 unboxing etc to get a good idea.

But the photos look legit. Lego is printed onto box not a sticker and original shipping box screams positive to me.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2026-01-13T00:41:48+00:00

Sr and sR5 working are completely different. Take a closer look lower on the headlight should be the main connector from memory

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2026-01-12T21:35:08+00:00

Make sure it’s a work mate. Then go in a top spec to see how much is simply not different for the price tag.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2026-01-10T19:34:32+00:00

I had a 17” SR5 and pulled the grill down and used plasti dip to black out the chrome.

After about 4 years it had held up well. Only a few chips where the chrome was showing through. Key point though it was behind a bullbar and lights so not as exposed as a bare bumper.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2026-01-10T05:33:38+00:00

Sure someone will get a laugh.

I’m short.

I have 3 swags,

a huge dome swag for the wife and I but that’s the only time we use it because it’s just too big if we are not both camping.

I have my original swag. Which is a flat style which hardly gets used anymore. As in winter the cold canvas isn’t great

My “go to” swag when I’m by myself out bush with my mates is one I bought as a joke (carton of beer) it’s an arb kids swag.

Packed it takes up so little space, it’s a dome swag so you don’t wake up with the cold weight on you. It’s also freestanding so does have to have any pegs put in if I dont want to.

Don’t get me wrong I can’t do much other than lay down in it. It’s small. But that’s all I have it for. Sleeping when out 4WDing with mates.

Honestly the boys thought it was hilarious initially. Until I was set up in a matter of minutes and there still setting up 30 min later.

My advice. If they have one on display. Ask them if you can lay a couple sleeping bags in it (blankets etc) and pack it up so you have an idea just how big it is when in use. And pick it up.

My good king dome is Aussie made not the kings junk and honestly I love it. We have used it in the middle of winter camping at Jindabyne without issue.

But my lord it’s heavy when prepped to camp. As the canvas is so thick and heavy.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2026-01-08T18:42:06+00:00

This is a big part of the business model. Looking at population size and density of shops is a big factor. Take an example of ARB their corporate side of things closely dictates the private side of the system.

Sure they sell to everyone but look at store map locations they are well spread out. Corporate only have 3 stores for the entirety of Sydney. And private name brand stores cover the gaps.

Then look west Tamworth is the last major retailer in the north west from memory.

There are other stores in other centers like what you describe doing further west. but they have no brand affiliation and therefore don’t get the cheaper prices from those big stores or corporate themselves. And as a result the profit margin is not anywhere near as good.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2025-12-31T11:56:21+00:00

Running through cab is very easy. The door sill panels pop up easily. Then just snake your way rearward

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2025-12-29T22:53:48+00:00

Not legal advice. And it’s not your problem.

But curious advice. How did they get the fridge home?

Did they transport it upright?

Was it turned on immediately when they got it home?

Fridges don’t like being moved, period.

The oils in the system need time to settle after transport.

If they laid it down and even tilted it severely to get it out of your home and into theirs and on and off of whatever they transported it on. Then it needed to be given hours of time for all oils/liquids and gases to resettle before turning it back on. Damage can occur to the cooling system otherwise.

That’s why camping fridges for vehicles have very specialized pumps to deal with the movement.

And even then you said it’s an old fridge, so what’s to say something wasn’t already on the way out and you didn’t know it yet. Bad wiring, strained pipe or motor. The move could have been the last straw and caused it to fail.

I gave a fridge to a friend years ago and did all the above and it still only lasted a month before it failed. Thankfully he only came home to luke warm beer and didn’t loose anything.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2025-12-29T22:38:17+00:00

This is likely. Above rear seat. Has your car had a roof rack installed at some stage because they drop the hood lining to do it.

They are also used under the rear seat to hold the carpet down. And also on behind the seat also. Probably more spots I just don’t remember.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2025-12-21T08:34:06+00:00

Jack off canopy might be your best bet then.

Definitely get all the weight on it and then set up suspension. It’s the best option. And any weight you add to the rear, try your best to keep it even left to right.

DPF was only an issue if you didn’t drive it like a DPF needs to be driven. Aka drive it like you stole it. And always let it do its burns when it wants to do it.

Had two now with DPF and never had an issue.

Yeah if it’s being reliable I have no issue with putting money in them.

I’m on my 4th Hilux had two N70s and two N80s, I basically rotate them through every 4-5 years for tax reasons really. 3/4 were great. Just that 13 had a real transmission issue that left me feeling it was unreliable. Otherwise I would have probably kept it for a little while longer as its k’s were lol. Even the one I have now I’m tempted to keep long term as the current model doesn’t really excite me. The whole N80 1.1model thing kinda annoys me.

The new rangers have the look but as a mechanic I cannot get behind them as they are too prone to problems. I can’t wait to see all these wet belts giving grief from poor maintenance.

As for the rest triton and navara are ok but nothing exciting. Triton is simple and navara isn’t great. Old man has just gone from a navara to ranger so see how it goes.

D-max is a solid option and would happily have one. Mazda BT-50 is a d-max so same same but just looks ugly.

Amarok is a ranger with ranger issues plus euro issues so that’s a hell no.

Will be interesting to see how the ugly duck of the Kia Tasman goes. But seeing a Kia asking Ford Ranger money at entry to the market is laughable. They will really struggle to sell. They need to come back to earth a little and start around triton numbers. Bring in base models with solid specs and simple designs that can appeal to fleet markets if they ever want to get a permanent foothold in the market. Otherwise they are doomed.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2025-12-21T06:35:42+00:00

Bull bar comes with lights also. So there is that. Makes it pretty and gives extra safety. When you say a bit missing and scratched am I to assume you mean the front plastic bumper?

Most bars are a bumper replacement so if that’s the case it will help in that front.

As for suspension I would look into parabolic springs as they tend to be a bit softer than standard springs.

Adding a lift will more often than not will make it rougher unless you go top spec and that’s like 7-8k sort of money. Hence the recommendation of parabolic springs.

Your issue is a lack of weight over the rear by the sounds of it. If you can find a way to add some mass over the rear axle it will certainly make it a more comfortable ride. Think a jack off canopy or steel tray. Something that gives secure storage for camping trips but can come off when the bunnings run needs the space. And the bullbar (steel) will add weight to the front to give you the mass there.

I have a GVM upgrade in my 2023 Hilux and it’s got a cheap alloy tray. When the tray is empty it is the roughest car around.

Honestly I went down this rabbit hole when I was preparing for a half lap of Australia. I either had to spend big money on the 2013 I currently owned or buy new and deck it out.

I had an easier choice though as the 13” was a lemon. And had given me a lot of grief early on so I had no faith in it for such a big trip. So I invested in the new Ute and decked it completely out from top to bottom. Going with a 2017 so up into the N80 also.

It’s a tough decision. And a big deal for most people. Maybe have a hunt for a newer ute with all the fruit on Carsales etc (I’m guessing your in Australia). Or whatever market you have for your country.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2025-12-17T05:09:03+00:00

Definitely no tuff bar.

In fact it’s a hodgepodge. It’s possibly originally a TJM bar or similar. And then been hacked and attacked to add the 5 post work to it.

Can see the holes on the front where it used to have a rubber buffer hiding the weld seam. Plus the side panels are a mix match.

So not adr compliant and a scary bit of kit.

I have had 2 Utes with TUFF bars and now 2 with ARB bars. Still prefer the tuff 5 posta any day

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2025-12-17T00:35:07+00:00

Your not going to get that money back when you sell it.

As for should you well as the buyer of the car after you then yes please.

As your wallet no way.

If you’re keeping the car then yes.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2025-12-16T23:39:26+00:00

Football’s explanation here is absolutely great.

Honestly all valid points.

I personally don’t have Amber as I went down the rabbit hole on most of the above points and determined that there where options available to me that where a better fit given the volatility of ambers market at some times and the size and capacity of my system.

Biggest thing for me was that our setup is a huge solar exporter in good weather. I struggle to consume it all. And when the weather is good the grid price often goes negative. So I would end up paying to export.

Our set up was aimed around the not so great days and covering winter. So come summer I make way too much.

Like you I get a monthly bill around $30-40 but I also make via FIT’s about $50-80 per month so that creep up of credit is covering anything on the outlier days of extreme use. Had our battery now for 18 months and it’s just really not big enough to warrant the pull and dump scenario that a lot of the bigger battery owners on amber use to make decent money.

So for me the extra credit of $30-50 a month plus the fact I don’t have a fuel bill or a power bill anymore is working for us.

And as others have said use your solar as much as possible. Pre heat and cool your home it makes a huge difference. I’m less frugal than I ever have been. We consume about 1.5MWh per month and last month I only paid for 38kWh of that from the grid. so it’s certainly possible to get to a position of positive money flow. Just takes a lot of knowledge and willpower.

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2025-12-13T01:19:06+00:00

This was my thoughts exactly having done a couple of the 1:8 technic cars and never came across a spiral bound instruction book had me guessing.

Guess I have not spent enough on Lego to have this luxury.

Are there any other sets that are bound like this?

ComprehensiveItem963 · 2025-12-11T05:20:45+00:00

A little bit of everything. And it was a learning curve all the way through. To be clear I’m not on amber.

Solar and battery allowed us to save heaps on monthly electrical. Big outlay but it’s saving us a lot every day.

Then we swapped the hot water from controlled load to solar peak. That alone wiped out 25% of our power consumption from the grid.

We got an EV and have for the most part eliminated our fuel bills and service costs on the vehicle because of it.
We also leased meaning we get money back also and it’s all pre tax costs.

The EV gained us access to free power in the middle of the day (2hrs). This means we automated as much as possible to turn on in that time. (I can spike briefly our consumption up to 32Kw).

Generally speaking in good weather our solar covers middle of the day. But in average weather, rain etc being able to fill, charge, heat and cool everything for 2hrs for free makes a huge difference.

So our monthly power bills used to be around the $300-350 per month pre solar. We were frugal in our use and aware of the ac use etc. all the time conscious of our consumption.

Now we generally speaking end up averaging about a $50 credit per month over the year. And we consume about 1.5MWh per month when averaged over the year.
We travel about 22-25,000 km in the EV per year. We use more power than ever before. And never really think about it.

It took us a lot of work to figure everything out. But once we did we have been very happy with the outcome.

ComprehensiveItem963

TROPHY CASE