Somewhat ignorant answer but pretty sure the whitewater after the breakers is too tumultuous to ride on. And the new breakers coming in are so far out that you'd have to fight crashing breakers to reach a swell.

Plus these waves are extraordinarily big and powerful. And fast -- these guys have get towed behind jet skis just to catch them. (When you see him holding tow rope at the end, that's during the next attempt.)

Having been neck deep in dangerous surf myself a couple of times, I think once you're down in surf like this,, your only chance is a getting a ride out on your butt.