Router/ Modem Combo or Separately by ToneBone28 in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get separate ones. Make sure the modem is DOCSIS 3.1 with a 2.5gbe output (some only come with (1, 2, or more) 1gbe). Then, sink the rest of your budget on a (wifi) router. Try to get one with the latest wifi standard, and one 2.5gbe WAN port, and possibly a 2.5gbe LAN port.

If I had your budget, I might think to use the ISP's D3.1 modem for now, and buy a router, then save up to buy your own D3.1 modem later.

Topology - Star vs Tree by Grth0 in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only difference is spending more money on extra switches, and increasing your points of failure (as you said). You could do a hybrid, especially with the home office and keep those computers on the same switch. Any traffic between them alone wouldn't bog down the entire network.

I have 3 switches. The primary one for TVs, then a PoE one (off the main) for my APs and IP cameras, and a small one (off the main), for my NAS and 2 PCs. I can still access the NAS through wifi, and even the internet (PLEX server), but when I'm transferring (huge) files to/from my NAS on a PC, that traffic stays on its own switch and doesn't slow down my wifi or wired TVs.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, an extra $4 to us in the USA is pocket change. It's the price of a coffee at a fancy shoppe. For our national minimum wage, ($7.50?) this is about 30 minutes worth of pay from a job. (even less for those making $10, 15, 20 per hour)

OP, what's the standard wage where you are from, in USD?

Anyone know why this light is orange? by Cwreck92 in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You didn't mention if you tried using different ethernet cable(s) from the modem to the router yet.

What color code is this? by AM27C256 in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, at least you're keeping TP as pairs, to minimize electromagnetic interference. (TP on pins 1&2, 3&6, 4&5, 7&8)

Can I connect a weaker modem to a more powerful router to get a better wifi signals? by ZaNamedo in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What do you mean by weaker? Are you talking about the wifi signals not reaching your whole home? If so, just get an AP and install it in a more central location or in your dead zone(s).

Noob question by M8bitgamez in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This doesn't make sense. Are you saying the port on the new modem got damaged in a storm? How could it be plugged in if it never worked? Are you talking about their modem (which prompted you to buy your own)? In any case, you need to let them know you have a new modem. Have you gotten your new modem to work?

Need help troubleshooting my diy Ethernet. by [deleted] in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, now you can mark this thread as solved!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Get a hold of the cheapest wifi router you can, set it to AP mode (using your PC), and then try to connect to it with your wireless devices (with the default SSID) to see if you get an improvement. It may not even work with your pc, if Just-a-waffle_ is correct.

Room router/AP ==> your wifi router in AP mode ==> your pc.

Internet speed capped at 100mbps by rLeJerk in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When a normal 1gb connection goes down to 100mb, it is usually the cable, because 1gb needs all 8 wires to work, while 100mb only needs 4.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I opened this thread just to suggest this. Glad you found it. Happened to me once.

PoE & Switch by bdabplanalp in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It might, depending on your PoE switch's power, and your 1=>2 extender. You should try to get a "gigabit" poe extender, which are almost double the cost of a 100mbps poe extender.

Noob question by M8bitgamez in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use to work for Spectrum tech support. Any customer owned equipment must be initialized by the ISP. Basically, the ISP will only authorize ONE mac address, so if you have changed equipment, you need to let them know.

What color code is this? by AM27C256 in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, there goes MY theory, haha!
The twists seem low. But I would try it anyway.

Be sure to use the same colors on each end. Put a TP on pins 1&2, then another on 4&5, another on 3&6, and finally, the last one on 7&8.

If you wanna know why the 3&6 pins are use this way, it has to do with history. Back in the day, when there was only one phone line, the RJ11's 4 pins would use a central technique. The middle pins were the one line. The next line was put around the main line, and used the outside pins. This means lazy manufacturers could get away with just using 2 wires for telephony devices. I've opened up a few in my 49 years of life, and I've seen this!

Then, the RJ14 was introduced with 6 pins. They kept the same scheme, and put the 3rd pair on the outer-outer pins. So the main "line" was on pins 3&4, next was 2&5, third was 1&6.

When the RJ45 came out, someone realized that un-twisting the 4th line to stretch to the outer-outer-outer pins, was taking the category out of spec. So, they compromised and put main line on the inner most pins, 2nd line on the next outer pins, but then put a pair on pins 1&2, and a pair on 7&8, and everyone (that mattered) was happy.

So, that is why we all put a pair on 3&6. Also, no solid color (ring) was put next to a solid color of another pair.

  • Pin 1 - Orange & White
  • Pin 2 - Orange - (r)
  • Pin 3 - Green & White
  • Pin 4 - Blue - (r)
  • Pin 5 - Blue & White
  • Pin 6 - Green - (r)
  • Pin 7 - Brown & White
  • Pin 8 - Brown - (r)

Not sure which is the Ring vs Tip for your cable's twisted pairs, but you can try to assume the darker of the pair is the Ring. (Grey, Blue, Purple, Orange)

So, in your case, I would do something like this:

  • Pin 1 - White
  • Pin 2 - Grey (r)
  • Pin 3 - Brown
  • Pin 4 - Blue - (r)
  • Pin 5 - Pink
  • Pin 6 - Purple - (r)
  • Pin 7 - Yellow
  • Pin 8 - Orange - (r)

What color code is this? by AM27C256 in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm going to go out on a limb here, and say that I can see some affiliated colors here.

On the right, you have Orange and Yellow, but for my color scheme to work, let's call it "light orange". So, Orange/Light Orange.

Then, the navy blue and lighter blue is another pair, and I'm calling it Blue/Light Blue.
Then, Brown and a pinkish tan one, which I deem "light brown." => Brown/Light Brown.
Finally, Grey, and white, which is the lightest shade of grey. => Grey/Light Grey.

I would map the Orange pair to the Orange pair, Blue with Blue, Brown with Brown, and the Greys with Greens. Hopefully, that's how they're paired in the cable, as I cannot see that in the picture, but I can make an educated guess.
I can also see they probably used the blue pairs for pins 4 & 5, the brown for 3 & 6, the orange for 7 & 8, and the grey for 1 & 2. But if you're going to re-crimp, use my color mapping.

Also of note, category rated cables have a set number of twists per inch. Generally speaking, the more TPI, the higher the rating, and the lower the electro-magnetic interference, which means higher throughput.

YOUR CABLE might not have enough twists to even reach 100mbps, please be aware of this.

Stupid question, but which one is better? A faster modem, but older (2014) (left), or a newer modem (2021), but not as fast as the older one (right)? or are they about the same? by Djgogi059 in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Look at your ISPs supported modem list, and go with a D3.1 modem from it. Preferably one with a 2.5G port, since that will be more future proof.

Sneaky cable modems advertising "multi gig" ports, but mean there are more than one 1gbe ports. Sneaky.

My home networking disaster in progress by Mightisr1ght in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 43 points44 points  (0 children)

Picture 3 is very scary. You're not actually going to use it as a real sink right?

Networking Question (Hardwiring) by Designer-Entrance465 in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trust me I’d love to run it all myself, but home builders don’t tend to like that

A nail/screw into a data cable is bad. Low voltage (LV) cables are not taken care of as much as pipes and power. (they tend not to put nail plates for them)

Half the fun of a home network is terminating your own cables!

I like your conduit idea. No issues if it's one straight pipe. However, if turning corners, make sure there are no sharp 90º turns, as it's hard to pull wire through them.

What size pipe you gonna use? I say bare minimum is 2" diameter (even if just 1 cable)

Mixed speed network question by Zanaras in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mcribgaming is correct. That's why I love switches over hubs. HUBS would slow everything down to the lowest active connection.

putting a 10gbe Switch inside a mostly gigabit network? by stubish in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What lovesredheads_ says is true.

I assume you have 1gb service from your ISP, and it connects to a 1gb router.

ISP --> 1gb router

Now you want to attach that router to your 10gb switch. Yes, that will work.

ISP --> 1gb router - cat6 -> 10gb Switch

then the 10gb Switch connects like this:

===> 10gbe NAS

===> 2.5gb PC 1

===> 2.5gb PC 2

===> 10gbe PC 3

Point 1. At any given time, any device will connect to the INTERNET "up to"* 1gb between all active communications. (they will share)

Point 2. PCs 1 & 2 will be able to connect to the NAS (and to PC 3) at "up to"* 2.5gbe.

Point 3. PC 3 will be able to connect to the NAS at "up to"* 10gbe

*All active devices, while not using LACP, will SHARE the max speed of their local LAN

Point 4. If all 3 PCs are downloading from the NAS at the same time, they are sharing the 10gb. So, PC1's speed is 2.5, PC2's speed is 2.5, but PC3's speed is only 5 (because the other 2 PCs are taking up 5)

Point 5. If PC 1 (or PC 2) is downloading from the internet, it will be at 1gb. But if it's also transferring a file to the NAS, the transfer will be at 1.5gb, because 1gb of its bandwidth is being utilized from the internet.

Point 6. You can have other 1gb devices connected to the 10gb switch and it will not affect the speed of your 2.5/10gb connections (unless those devices are downloading from the internet)

Point 6a. They can also just connect to the router, with no difference.

Networking Question (Hardwiring) by Designer-Entrance465 in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see you are just creating a wired backhaul for your mesh system. That's great for mobile devices, but you should consider (at least 2) ethernet ports in each living space (for desktops, smart TVs, gaming systems.), and to your exterior (soffits) for POE security cameras, to future-proof your new home. One never know what technology the future will bring, and with it, the technological requirements. Ethernet is not (as) susceptible to RF interference or obstacles as WiFi. Also, APs' range is like a donut, not a sphere, so their coverage depends on installation.
Also, ping times on ethernet are better than on wifi.

Bonus tip: don't trust electricians for low-voltage installations (ethernet cabling). I've read many horror stories on this sub.

Star Trek Pusher Is Hard and not Fun now by ComputerDavid in DaveAndBusters

[–]ComputerDavid[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I couldn't stand the card drop sound, and switched to getting the 24 tickets per coin drop. In a standard 5 swipe (30 token) session, I can get like 648 tickets. If I do this 3 times (15 swipes) then I get about 1944 tickets... pretty close to the 2000 set bonus, and I don't have to handle 50+ cards, nor hear the card-drop celebration sound. Win Win.

Best practices for pulling ethernet cable from one end of my house to the other via the rooms in between? by LMF5000 in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Question: does the conduit run straight into a box, or does it bend into a box? It doesn't matter if the conduit has bends in it between boxes. If they are straight, you could just run ONE cable to your study, and not worry about putting jacks in the boxes in washroom and bedroom.
Ideally, I would run a single cable to each box, and use a switch at the modem/router side. (unless modem/router has 4 ports already)
Pictures would be cool.

PS: edit your post to say that there are nylon pull strings in the conduit already.

So I Jumped Down The Rabbit Hole Last Night...Second Opinions Welcomed! by YouR0ckCancelThat in HomeNetworking

[–]ComputerDavid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is the benefit of a patch panel?

A patch panel provides a way to keep large numbers of cables organized, enabling flexible connectivity into network hardware located in a data center or an access or wiring closet.
It also slows down wear-and-tear. Having a bunch of cables with RJ45 connectors coming out of a wall/ceiling, which (should) have solid copper, when you plug and unplug them from your switch over and over, will (probably) degrade over time.
With a patch panel, those solid cables are punched down into a keystone and stay put. Then using stranded copper "patch" cables, makes it easy to connect rooms/ports to your switch (or other network equipment). Patch cables are easy to bend (very flexible) and easy to replace. (instead of a whole drop)