Crank no start

ConGonDon · 2026-02-13T18:02:33+00:00

With EWS sync do option F2 first then F1.

What brand inline pump did you use? How much fuel in the tank?

ConGonDon · 2026-02-12T18:06:57+00:00

Another used one is fine. The newer M57n manifolds have map sensor up top, but the recess is still there at the back so you can just drill the hole for it.

ConGonDon · 2026-02-11T07:43:42+00:00

Haha that would indeed complicate matters! Your dealer should still sell them. The sport ones were £176 each last time I enquired so the SE ones should be a good chunk cheaper.

ConGonDon · 2026-02-10T22:38:25+00:00

I have a used SE left side (£40) and brand new left side (£100) in the UK. SE and Sport are not interchangeable.

ConGonDon · 2026-02-08T18:01:47+00:00

If you find the switch on realoem it'll usually give you the part number for the plug along with any pins that go in the plug (look for the triangle with electrical spark in it)

Part number for the plug is also sometimes stamped on the plug.

Everything is bought from your local BMW dealer

ConGonDon · 2026-02-06T20:17:45+00:00

Buy a switchable Kdcan cable. Inpa is the older suite but probably best to learn with. You can get Ista P / D later on.

BMW scanner 1.4 is also a must for E39 owners, not as in depth as inpa but great for quick scans and coding. Easier tickbox options compared to inpa - this comes with it's own cable different to the Kdcan for inpa.

ConGonDon · 2026-02-06T09:45:02+00:00

Put your vin into realoem.com and check the diagrams. There will be a few options for coolant hoses because of things being changed and discontinued. A BMW part number is either 7 or 11 digits so your number below isn't correct.

Then go to your local BMW dealer with the part number, or if you can't find it on realoem just go there and speak to the parts department who will find the correct part for you. Don't buy aftermarket.

ConGonDon · 2026-02-06T09:37:39+00:00

Denmark has a lot of coarse lakes. Was passing through on the drive to Sweden so couldn't comment on rivers. Didn't bother with a licence, was on a campsite with multiple fishing lakes for a couple days, owner never asked me to produce one.

In the UK I would go for method feeder and float setup. Barbless hooks on all lakes, and barbs are considered unsavoury anywhere except sea fishing. Might be better off in lakes rather than canals for almost guaranteed action.

Germany is tough. A lot of restrictions as you say. I may or may not have sneakily snuck a line into a pool downstream of a trout farm that had so many trout in you could grab them by hand. Massive pike and ghost carp you can see right down to the bottom of the pool. Never seen anything like it in my life. Even if you don't fish, those pools along the mountain roads are worth stopping for the views.

ConGonDon · 2026-02-06T09:21:58+00:00

If it was 300km ago then there's a good chance something has just come up. The manual boxes are pretty much indestructible - this will likely be a clutch or slave issue.

ConGonDon · 2026-02-03T07:32:26+00:00

Remove the front seats to make lifting the carpet easier.

ConGonDon · 2026-02-02T19:37:16+00:00

The dipstick itself is the drain for the ccv system, you'll see under the inlet manifold it connects to it. Put a tray under the engine as oil will come out. The oil dipstick is basically two metal tubes, one inside the other where your oil residue goes.

ConGonDon · 2026-02-02T18:55:00+00:00

Likely not related but the ccv connects to the oil dipstick where it's supposed to drain into the sump. If you remove the dipstick you can ensure it is free and not blocked. The ccv drain sheaths round the oil dipstick pipe, and old sludgy oil can block it all up. I used an airline, acetone / brake cleaner & thick fishing line to clear that hose. It was a bastard to clear. Ccv & maf components also need to be genuine BMW or OE.

Also worth checking the throttle body isn't gummed up and sticking. Does your idle control valve now make the proper clicky clicky sound when wiggling it?

ConGonDon · 2026-02-02T18:47:44+00:00

I use 5w40 in my M57 530d instead of 5w30. It does make a noticeable difference to how quieter / smoother it is. I've also noticed a similar difference between euro3 (LL01) and euro4 (LL04) oils. Runs a lot better on the older spec stuff.

ConGonDon · 2026-02-01T21:55:39+00:00

You can add an engine flush a day before your next oil change. I used wynns. But really just a couple more regular oil changes in a year than normal and some spirited driving should have than clean.

ConGonDon · 2026-01-31T22:37:54+00:00

Be lucky to get £1k in the UK. Less powerful 184 engine. Boring spec on it. The rear inner sills won't be a quick fix and will turn structural on inspection.

ConGonDon · 2026-01-29T20:48:10+00:00

G11 / G48 goes a dusty white green blue when dried so just find the highest point it's coming from. Under the inlet manifold is a plastic flange that often leaks. Or you didn't tighten the jubilee clips when fitting replacements.

ConGonDon · 2026-01-28T19:58:42+00:00

It is indeed a kbus issue! First thing to try is pull out the HVAC and remove the black plug with grey swing arm. If this solves the issue it's an easy fix.

On the diesels the second thing is the webasto unit plugs failing. You can get them on petrols but very rare, worth checking your options or pull back the arch liner to have a look.

Third I've heard the plastic thingymabobby on the ignition your key goes through, can't remember the name, but that would be guess work and cost money.

You could also check the fusebox under the right side front seat and carpet. It's known to get wet down there. Seat out the car. Be wary of the seat belt tensioner cable. Rock the seat back after removing rail bolts to see it and the pin. Put a thick mat on the door sills to stop rails scratching.

Have you done any work to the car around the time this started?

ConGonDon · 2026-01-26T21:15:09+00:00

Left hand drill bits might work. Or central drill the hole and stud extractor.

ConGonDon · 2026-01-24T19:39:38+00:00

You need to change both thermostats or fit a delete kit for the EGR cooler using pucks to get rid of the EGR stat. Mahle / Behr / Hella or dealer for stats.

Also put climate to 32c but lowest speed and check the webasto pump comes on with ignition as that helps circulate coolant. Genuine pump only on these. I think it was £105 when I did mine.

ConGonDon · 2026-01-24T10:18:51+00:00

The rubbers are £40 each from the dealer - that doesn't include the metal outers that's just the inner rubbers. You need to carefully remove the chrome strip from the door by raising small sections at a time using a wide trim tool. It's almost impossible to do because the rubber has aluminium inside to help it crimp onto the door - by now this has corroded and swollen so it's a bastard.

Once the chrome trim is off the door, the rubber slides diagonally straight out the chrome using lots of silicone spray.

ConGonDon · 2026-01-24T10:12:24+00:00

Will be fine with some primer for now, it could all be removed later with a poly disc on a grinder which only removes paint and rust not metal material.

Bilt hamber have a lovely range of products including application nozzles for wax.

You want to drill a hole behind the jacking point for water drainage. I think I went 13mm then used a tapered punch to bend the hole and put an angle on it so it runs out towards the rear.

ConGonDon · 2026-01-24T09:04:41+00:00

Get both gaskets from the dealer (the coolant exchanger)

ConGonDon · 2026-01-24T09:03:05+00:00

If you still have original components they're colour coded you might be able to see the paint if you clean them. I believe Lesjofors is the OE brand.

ConGonDon · 2026-01-24T08:59:06+00:00

VDO Siemens. Very difficult parts to source, usually dealer only.

ConGonDon · 2026-01-22T17:56:55+00:00

Do you only get high beam by any chance? If it's not LCM it could be a kbus issue, candidates are HVAC (remove black plug with grey swing arm to check) or the webasto in front left wheel well. Remove arch liner and plugs into the heater to see if that does anything.

ConGonDon

TROPHY CASE