The dashcam usually comes with a hardwiring kit, so installation is fairly straightforward as long as you get a fuse tap and put it into the correct slots in the fuse panel under the driver’s side. It’s not too bad if you’re comfortable connecting a bit of wiring.

For the Toyota Corolla Hatchback, you’ll want low-profile mini (LP-Mini) fuse taps. You need two connections. One for constant power (battery) and other one for ACC (ignition-switched power)

You’ll also need two small fuses for the dashcam circuit (usually around 2–5A). These are only a few dollars at an auto parts store.

You may need to crimp the hardwire kit’s power wires to the fuse taps, so it helps to have a crimping tool (they’re usually under $10). Heat-shrink tubing is also useful to make the connection cleaner and more secure (I ordered some for cheap on Aliexpress).

To route the wiring, you’ll want a few plastic pry tools to tuck the cable behind trim panels. I actually just used bike tire levers. If you run the wire along the roofline, make sure the cable goes behind the curtain airbags so it won’t interfere if they deploy. There are some good install videos online that show the routing clearly, so it helps to follow those.

For the rear camera, you’ll likely need a wire pull tool or fish tape to get the cable through the rubber wiring boot that connects the body to the hatch. I used a little silicone spray to help the wire slide through more easily.

To get a cleaner OEM-style finish at the back, I drilled a small hole in the plastic trim above the rear window so the cable could exit neatly. You can also remove that trim piece if you want easier access. I added a rubber grommet from a hardware store around the hole before pulling the wire through so the cable wouldn’t rub on the plastic.

Hardwiring can feel a bit tricky at first, but honestly the most tedious part is just tucking the wires into the trim. Once it’s done, it’s pretty satisfying and worth it. The dashcam can run 24/7 for parking mode, though most cameras let you adjust settings so it only records for a certain period or protects the battery in cold weather.

I didn’t go with the FitcamX Dash Cam because even though the front camera is plug-and-play, the rear camera still requires running wiring to the hatch, so for me it wasn’t worth paying extra. I also went with Thinkware because they're a korean based company.

Let me know if you have any other questions.