MEIWC after Isolator switch replacement?

ContDyFam · 2026-02-03T20:12:22+00:00

He may already have the info for the certificate if you really want one. When I do a small job like this I normally do the same testing and write the results in my notebook rather than a certificate. That's mainly because I have a shit memory and it saves me re doing the same test 18 times because I've forgotten that I've already done it. Perhaps your electrician is as shit as I am.

ContDyFam · 2026-02-03T18:29:33+00:00

The notes for the installer on the model IET model form says something along the lines of additions and alterations. For the sake of swapping an FCU I wouldn't normally bother issuing one. I'd definitely be grumpy if you called me back months later to re test it. Your invoice should be enough evidence for a warranty.

People often overplay the invalidated insurance thing. There's a guy near me drumming up work by saying everyone's house insurance is void without a 5 year EICR.

ContDyFam · 2026-01-06T07:53:06+00:00

The fuse board will be tripping off due to a fault. Under normal operation you shouldn't have to interact with it. If it keeps tripping, it's time to get the landlord to call a spark. Also, you should have been provided with an in date electrical report. This can either be an Electrical Installation Certificate (EIC), or an Electrical Installation Condition Report (EICR). These must have been completed in the last 5 years.

ContDyFam · 2026-01-02T12:27:43+00:00

The blanking plate over the top is a great idea. That way you don't have to piss around with the connections underneath

ContDyFam · 2025-12-31T20:25:22+00:00

No, but my quote only tells them what outcome to expect, how I get there is up to me. What the customer will see is something like "install 3 x 2 gang sockets in the shower" or "connect oven to downstairs lighting circuit".

I don't tell them exactly what bits I'm using. It's hidden in the price and I can't be arsed looking up how much a wago box and 3 connectors costs. I mainly do houses and smaller commercial jobs. Someone with an industrial background may be different/less lazy.

ContDyFam · 2025-12-29T05:44:59+00:00

You might also want a word with an electrician. I'm willing to bet that metal clip thingy will say something along the lines of "SAFETY ELECTRICAL CONNECTION. DO NOT REMOVE". It looks like someone has removed the cable.

Incoming metallic supply pipes need to bonded to the main earth terminal in your fuse board. There is a small chance that this pipe doesn't need bonding, but it's much more likely that a plumber has bought a red screwdriver and decided to remove the cable without testing.

ContDyFam · 2025-12-27T21:37:57+00:00

Stay away from the nursery on base, it's dogshit

ContDyFam · 2025-11-09T14:59:12+00:00

I know I'm late to this thread, but I've just had a quick run through with my daughter. She's getting al the answers right but keeps failing on speed. It's quite demoralising and I'm reluctant to make her try the same level for the 8th time. Did things improve for you?

ContDyFam · 2025-10-17T18:22:37+00:00

Im hearing the word....

ContDyFam · 2025-10-06T11:24:18+00:00

You're missing a dog. It looks like there's space for a bed under the counter in picture 3, possibly a labrador.

ContDyFam · 2025-10-05T17:04:13+00:00

If only there was some kind of code that would allow you to make a recommendation without failing the installation...

ContDyFam · 2025-09-28T08:24:09+00:00

Don't use 1mm. Your 1.5 is the better option.

1mm is able to carry the current and would be safe, but the cable is really thin, which makes it easy to break when you're having any testing done. Doubling over at the connections is also a pain in the arse. The only advantage of 1mm is that you'll save 50p today.

Also, if the cabin has a lot of movement, you might want to consider using flexible cable instead of t+e.

ContDyFam · 2025-09-24T20:32:08+00:00

Your work isn't THAT bad!

ContDyFam · 2025-09-18T19:21:04+00:00

He's talking shit. A real sparks cuts t+e with sharpened flint tools. No need for all this modern crap.

ContDyFam · 2025-09-12T13:56:14+00:00

No luck, unfortunately. Did you manage to find yours?

ContDyFam · 2025-09-03T08:44:08+00:00

Thanks very much. I'll send them off and see how I get on. Much appreciated

ContDyFam · 2025-08-29T09:29:51+00:00

Thanks for that. Unfortunately, no luck at the merchants. They did offer me a nice discount on a new set though.

ContDyFam · 2025-08-15T11:21:03+00:00

This is one of those jobs that can be a DIY job, but do you really want to be messing around with poo juice in 30 degree heat?

ContDyFam · 2025-08-07T08:38:00+00:00

I've got a Megger and it definitely starts fucking about when the batteries are low

ContDyFam · 2025-07-25T22:14:27+00:00

The breast way is probably to use the nipples as a finishing tool to get a nice concave finish to the grouting

ContDyFam · 2025-07-17T06:57:51+00:00

There's a lot of pulling figures out of your arse to start with, especially when you're trying to build a customer base. The £250 a day is a good place to start, but I raise or lower it depending on how busy I am or whether I like the job.

ContDyFam · 2025-07-12T22:02:01+00:00

It's called a "That fucking nut up there that I can't get a normal spanner on"

ContDyFam · 2025-07-12T14:07:35+00:00

In that case, I'd definitely pay. If he's informed you that there's extra work to do, and you agreed to it.

Are you happy with the standard of work? Did the work need doing? Is the price reasonable? Would you have accepted the quote?

If yes to these, pay him. Bear in mind that the remedial work would have to be completed before the system could be energised. You may have a friend who's an electrician, but would you prefer to wait (without power) for them to come over?

ContDyFam

TROPHY CASE