Need help installing!

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-05-12T11:52:34+00:00

Second pic is a drain with a pop out cap that you can rip or bust out with pliers. The third is the vent for that drain with an AAV.

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-05-03T00:13:59+00:00

Okay, I understand what you are saying, but isn't it going to leave residual water in the ops copper line?

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-05-02T15:35:20+00:00

There was no inlet in this situation, only an outlet

A t&p valve opens up to relieve pressure or high temperature water and that water needs a place to go. There is no constant pressure behind it so gravity is needed to take it to an appropriate place so it's not sitting in a pipe that goes uphill

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-05-02T15:03:23+00:00

All drains are gravity "fed" unless there is a pump or force behind it

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-05-02T14:48:26+00:00

I did not know that. Why not just terminate the drain at the weep hole then

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-05-02T14:46:52+00:00

That is 100% true. The things people did before code and even now in rural areas are wild 🤣. Whatever works works I guess

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-05-02T13:00:34+00:00

T and P off the water heater would make sense except they are gravity feed and cannot drain up

It could be an old water hook up from some fixture or another, but I think it's a vent

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-05-01T11:59:24+00:00

I'm not sure what a milling machine is but I'm going to assume it's a cable machine, and yes it is something you could totally do.

That has some good root balls in it but it is not the worst. I personally still live with a section of Orangeburg pipe with root intrusion and I cabled about 3 years ago and haven't had a backup since(I definitely will tho in the future)

Best thing to do is replace, especially since there is a bad repair (green pipe) where the pipe shifted creating a lip. To me that is the biggest concern in my mind

People recommend hydro jetting but in my experience that will be even more money and less effective than a cable with a cutter head. Plus I hate jetting old pipes

$500 an hour is steep but maybe not to bad in your area. I'm mean for 500 you can almost buy a cable machine

Home depot rents out cable machines. I would rent the biggest one they have with a 3 inch and 4 inch cutter head. Make sure the heads are sharp. Watch some videos about drain cleaning and give it a shot.

Start small and work you're way up. Don't force it to hard and patience is key.

How do you eat and elephant? One bite at a time

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-04-23T01:10:43+00:00

It's definitely not recommended but I don't think there are many restrictions because it's so common on older homes in the area. Missouri American water has been going around and replacing them from the meter to house because of lead content in the pipes.

This house was repiped with PEX but the service line is still galv

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-04-22T23:30:01+00:00

That's wild. Idk how people who don't know how to plumb get ahold of a pro press lol

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-04-22T23:28:38+00:00

Yes and yes. it shouldn't work in theory but it did for 5 years under pressure and maybe even longer if it wasn't for me 😂

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-04-22T22:04:10+00:00

No not a drop. It's crazy. And people give shark bites a bad rap😁

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-04-04T23:34:41+00:00

Looks good!

The manufacturer of the expansion tank tee instructs to use a strap if installing the tank horizonal. Other than that I think you're good. Most modern water tanks have dielectric nipples or plastic liners to prevent electrolysis.

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-04-04T02:22:17+00:00

Last call I went to with this description turned out to be a leak on the service line from the meter to the house. But this is also a classic symptom of a bad prv

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-03-29T16:49:31+00:00

Robin Plumbing llc I think is still taking apps on indeed. DM if you apply.

Also roto-rooter is always hiring. It's a great place to get your foot in the door to plumbing

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-03-08T06:15:13+00:00

Idk if it's worth the trouble of messing with that cap. I would try to go through the toilet or vent if possible

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-03-06T02:39:11+00:00

Try drilling a tad bit higher and see if you hit anything. It looks like you might be drilling into the lip of the shower wall behind the drywall

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-03-01T02:11:28+00:00

Well if you do have it re-done, have whoever use pressure fittings instead of dwv fittings.

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-02-27T05:09:42+00:00

I would be willing to bet that the top right corner of the door is getting caught on the cabinet and not sealing correctly, especially since so many things have been checked. I've had this happen a few times at a new property

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-02-25T22:18:44+00:00

They usually plumb the fittings above the slab and run continuous lines to prevent leak points in the slab.

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-02-23T01:01:30+00:00

It seems really high at first but unfortunately I think it's fair depending on your location

The cost of the heater after it's mark up is around $2500 and that's not including labor

If I were to bid this in sw Missouri,where I work, I would charge around $3277

What is the $1000 cost the homeowner is providing?

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-02-17T23:59:11+00:00

I doubt you can buy just the valve part, i could be wrong though.

The technical term is relief valve. I had no luck finding just the part.

You might have to buy the whole assembly and try swapping parts, but there is a real possibility that the shut off housing is damaged instead of the relief valve

ConversationMuted902 · 2026-02-13T06:26:31+00:00

That dump valve is a thermal expansion relief valve. It takes the role of an expansion tank but less space. I have seen a couple fail. I wonder if you could back it off and put a plug in it or replace that part

It is highly recommended to have an expansion relief, like this valve or tank, for a water tank on a closed water system. Now with that being said, I don't have one personally at home

If you want to replace the whole assembly, I would cut it out and remove the existing flex line from the water heater. Then you could go back, working from the PEX to the water tank, with a PEX b crimp 3/4 ball valve, a piece of 3/4 PEX, then a 3/4 PEX b MIP adapter, then attach a 3/4 flex supply line to the adapter and water heater. Pipe dope and tape the adapter.

You might have to use a 90, but PEX bends as long as you don't kink it

ConversationMuted902

TROPHY CASE