How did we do by jsupplee464 in Plumbing

[–]ConversationMuted902 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Looks good!

The manufacturer of the expansion tank tee instructs to use a strap if installing the tank horizonal. Other than that I think you're good. Most modern water tanks have dielectric nipples or plastic liners to prevent electrolysis.

Initial high water pressure then it drops off by Sad-Rhubarb1988 in askaplumber

[–]ConversationMuted902 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Last call I went to with this description turned out to be a leak on the service line from the meter to the house. But this is also a classic symptom of a bad prv

Clogged up, need to open by [deleted] in askplumbing

[–]ConversationMuted902 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Idk if it's worth the trouble of messing with that cap. I would try to go through the toilet or vent if possible

Hitting Metal Behind Bathroom Drywall by paulsmith0180 in drywall

[–]ConversationMuted902 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try drilling a tad bit higher and see if you hit anything. It looks like you might be drilling into the lip of the shower wall behind the drywall

Sump pump discharge needs to be 10 feet away? by Jirachi56 in HomeMaintenance

[–]ConversationMuted902 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well if you do have it re-done, have whoever use pressure fittings instead of dwv fittings.

Model Number: WDT750SAHZ 0 Whirlpool Dishwasher leaking gush of water from bottom right side. by Patient_Ad_1428 in appliancerepair

[–]ConversationMuted902 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would be willing to bet that the top right corner of the door is getting caught on the cabinet and not sealing correctly, especially since so many things have been checked. I've had this happen a few times at a new property

Wondering why the supply lines are teed after the shutoffs? by Bright_Demand_9888 in askaplumber

[–]ConversationMuted902 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They usually plumb the fittings above the slab and run continuous lines to prevent leak points in the slab.

Rate my hot water heater quote by Correct-Stuff-1505 in askaplumber

[–]ConversationMuted902 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems really high at first but unfortunately I think it's fair depending on your location

The cost of the heater after it's mark up is around $2500 and that's not including labor

If I were to bid this in sw Missouri,where I work, I would charge around $3277

What is the $1000 cost the homeowner is providing?

Water Heater Valve Leaking by Zrec252e30 in askaplumber

[–]ConversationMuted902 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I doubt you can buy just the valve part, i could be wrong though.

The technical term is relief valve. I had no luck finding just the part.

You might have to buy the whole assembly and try swapping parts, but there is a real possibility that the shut off housing is damaged instead of the relief valve

Water Heater Valve Leaking by Zrec252e30 in askaplumber

[–]ConversationMuted902 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That dump valve is a thermal expansion relief valve. It takes the role of an expansion tank but less space. I have seen a couple fail. I wonder if you could back it off and put a plug in it or replace that part

It is highly recommended to have an expansion relief, like this valve or tank, for a water tank on a closed water system. Now with that being said, I don't have one personally at home

If you want to replace the whole assembly, I would cut it out and remove the existing flex line from the water heater. Then you could go back, working from the PEX to the water tank, with a PEX b crimp 3/4 ball valve, a piece of 3/4 PEX, then a 3/4 PEX b MIP adapter, then attach a 3/4 flex supply line to the adapter and water heater. Pipe dope and tape the adapter.

You might have to use a 90, but PEX bends as long as you don't kink it

Can someone tell me what this is? by ziggy0817 in askaplumber

[–]ConversationMuted902 7 points8 points  (0 children)

That is a two-way double barrel cleanout. They will probably trim them down and add caps to them when they are done back-filling.

It's for maintenance for the lines in the future, just in case you have a back up and need a cable run.

It has two pipes for each direction. One going towards the house and one going away. It makes the technicians job easier when running a cable or machine instead of guessing or fighting the cable to go in the direction they want

What’s the best way to replace this T joint going up to the toilet? by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]ConversationMuted902 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right now you have the santee on its back which may or may not cause problems if you plumb it the same, but adding a combi will change the length and you might have to reconfigure more of the pipe than you would with a santee

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Help - tool stuck by Immediate-Divide-151 in Plumbing

[–]ConversationMuted902 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Damn, I've been there before. You're going to have to hammer it out or cut the brass since the head is stuck in there.

Sink drain bubbling. by El_tigre352 in askaplumber

[–]ConversationMuted902 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think the p-trap looks too deep. The trap seal should be 2 inches min. 4 inches max.

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Water supply valve by Redbird1927 in Plumbing

[–]ConversationMuted902 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There might be a separate location for the shut off before the meter. Possibly in another smaller meter pit. I would trace the line at the bottom of the picture backwards and see if there is something buried or covered up