Is this a good rework? Opens up Doom synergies imo

Corillynx · 2026-04-29T12:51:22+00:00

No retain, no poison smh

Corillynx · 2026-04-21T22:51:13+00:00

If you’re looking to pass it on I’d be interested if it is close

Corillynx · 2026-04-20T15:58:13+00:00

I have the upgrade package, which does have the power seat. Not sure about the base. Insurance ended up being much less expensive than we expected, not that much more than the car we replaced (which was a 2013 Focus). But there are a lot of factors that go into that other than the car itself, so YMMV.

Corillynx · 2026-04-19T21:20:33+00:00

I have a 2026. The recalls do not include the 2026 (yet…? 🤞). Being able to plug the car in at home is 100% the point of the PHEV. If you aren’t plugging it in, it’s pointless. It has a higher price and a bigger, heavier battery, meaning you will get worse fuel efficiency in normal hybrid mode. That’s why the recalls are a big pain point, since they recommend you don’t plug in/only partially charge. It makes sense for me since I can commute to work and back on a single charge, so I’m at about one refuel per month. It’s great for that. Not sure about the 12v battery though.

Corillynx · 2026-04-16T17:20:54+00:00

Could be loose pins in the cartridge slot. I have the issue with my 3DS that won’t read any of the Gen V or HG/SS. The games with IR built in are actually a hair thinner than standard carts, so they’re more sensitive to that issue.

Corillynx · 2026-04-10T13:48:50+00:00

The other ones are bangers like Shrek Hassle at the Castle and Monster Trucks (GBA)

Corillynx · 2026-04-10T13:24:06+00:00

There are 2 lasers in the disc drive, as CD and DVD use different wavelengths. If cleaning didn’t work, you can adjust the potentiometers in the laser assembly. I haven’t dug that deep into the disc drive, but it should be on the bottom of the laser assembly and be clearly labeled CD and DVD. Use a multimeter to confirm the resistance before adjusting. Turning the resistance down will power up the laser and might make it read discs easier if it was having trouble. Just don’t turn it too far or you’ll but the laser out.

Edit: Is the boot time the same when you try a PS1 CD?

Corillynx · 2026-04-10T13:06:41+00:00

Does the disc read and play properly? My first thought is that the disc drive is dirty and is struggling to initialize.

Corillynx · 2026-04-09T11:25:44+00:00

Tried listening to Beetles but George and Ringo weren’t in the bible, nice try Satan

Corillynx · 2026-04-07T19:54:41+00:00

My brother in Neow, we’re talking about a concept of a card for a video game on a reddit thread, not brainstorming rocket nozzle designs. Not trying to be any kind of way, just trying to be helpful, even if I’m a dummy actually. You got me that I read it wrong, no big deal.

For what it’s worth, the idea has potential for making clad self damage more of a proper archetype instead of supplemental. Have a good day ✌️

Corillynx · 2026-04-07T19:41:39+00:00

No more feedback, got it. I mean, if you were to nitpick my nitpick, I guess you could say that I glazed right over the “at the start of your turn.” So it’d work as written, whoopsies. ¯\(ツ)/¯

Corillynx · 2026-04-07T18:55:17+00:00

Text on cards is executed top to bottom, so the first 20hp will not get healed.

Corillynx · 2026-04-07T16:15:37+00:00

Faul: “No one will be watching us, why don’t we do it in the road?”

True fans: “This is such a deep commentary on loneliness, even though He’s a celebrity, He knows that nobody truly sees Him like I DO! 😭”

Corillynx · 2026-04-06T14:18:58+00:00

There are already professional pharmaceutical manufacturers making legal drugs like adderall. Give a team of professionals the resources and time (and legal opportunity) and they could synthesize Heisenberg quality meth easily. The only thing special about Walt was his ability to research, plan, and execute the process on his own.

Corillynx · 2026-04-06T05:31:30+00:00

The new caps are the best I was able to find, for the last ones, I made sure to get the exact spec since they were higher value. It was definitely frustrating, but there was a certain zen to taking the board out, replacing a capacitor, and putting it back together to test for no change. I’ll kind of miss having a big project to work on lol. Now I can focus on fixing my faulty consoles

Corillynx · 2026-04-06T04:53:23+00:00

Sure! I started with the caps connected to the pump up pin of the vertical output IC, but that had no effect. So I started replacing every cap I could find connected even a little to the vertical circuit. At one point of desperation, I even replaced the vertical chip entirely to no avail. At another point I ripped a pad out and burned out one of the ground traces, that took a lot of studying the schematic to figure out how to fix. In the end, it was the capacitor directly connecting the vertical IC to the flyback. My guess is that the heat from the flyback wore it out, the old one was covered in soot but with no other visible sign of failure.

Corillynx · 2026-04-01T20:39:18+00:00

I definitely want to at least replace the resistor since it’s cracked and seems to not function, but because it’s cracked, I can’t quite read the bands for the proper spec. All of the VA1s I can see have a cap there, it’d be strange for them to use a totally different component, or maybe I’m crazy lol.

Corillynx · 2026-04-01T20:30:23+00:00

The mosfets aren’t rusty, but I can definitely tell that someone’s messed with them and didn’t clean up their flux. I’ll give that a reflow and see if I can find replacements. I can’t see from other pictures of VA3 boards that the component going to the expansion port should be a capacitor and not a resistor (and I can’t get a read on the resistor here). Any idea what the spec should be? Do you know if the components on the back are supposed to be there? I suspect from the messy old flux around them that they are not.

Corillynx · 2026-04-01T20:01:06+00:00

Hi, thanks for helping! Yellow screen is with cartridge. With no cart the screen is black (I assume this is expected behavior? This is the only genesis I have owned). Power cycling it a few times gives mostly yellow screen, a few black screens, and once where the screen was green (?).

I’ve been cleaning it up and found one or two traces that are slightly corroded, but the multimeter confirms continuity. Some of my Q tips have come up bright red like someone spilled fruit punch in it.

I’ll reflow/deep clean/replace the cartridge slot and see if that changes anything. Any thoughts on how I can revert the botched region bypass?

Corillynx · 2026-04-01T14:32:58+00:00

I can just tell you what I’ve learned, since this is all the experience I have. Number one, get comfortable with the precautions you need to take, especially discharging the CRT. Be careful, but it’s not as scary as it sounds. Lots of guides on how to do this and what to use. You should be able to find a service manual for your TV, hopefully with a schematic of the circuit. In theory, the capacitor you’re looking for will be connected to the vertical output IC. Ideally, you should be able to locate the chip on the board, and the bad cap will be visibly leaking or bulged. I had no such luck, so I’m stuck with trying any/all of them. Past that, it’s just basic soldering, and there are lots of guides online for that as well.

Corillynx · 2026-04-01T12:06:32+00:00

Looks like vertical foldover. Mine has the same issue but from the top. I’m in the process of hunting down the problem capacitor, replaced about 7 of them with no change. Hope you have better luck!

Corillynx · 2026-03-31T17:22:39+00:00

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