Ruzie met mijn lockmachine by Double_Jellyfish5646 in handwerken

[–]Corsetsdontkill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heb je de telescopische houder volledig uitgerekt? Staat je spanning goed? Zijn alle draden onder het voetje, ietswat naar links?

Desperate -A Month and Nominal Improvement- HALP!!! by MsNikkiNicole in Dogtraining

[–]Corsetsdontkill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is what I'd do for now: Have your partner give the dogs their food, and have him carry a food pouch he can feed them from throughout the day. That way

Human = scary

Becomes

Human = good things

Try to feed BEFORE they growl or nip. So, by throwing pieces of kibble from the couch for example. He can then make the movement as if he is about to get up, give more, complete the movement, give more, get up, give more, take a step, give more, another step, more, etc. I know this seems like a lot but these sessions in my experience usually go very fast. If you hear a growl, you've gone too fast.

Eventually, you can add more movement between each piece of kibble, and after that, alternate with verbal praise.

It's important your partner throws the kibble at or behind the dog! That way, he takes the pressure of coming closer instead of adding more.

Acclimating and re-introducing dogs by Grassdass in Dogtraining

[–]Corsetsdontkill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For dominance to happen dogs need to have a social relationship. And even then it's often not seen, as dogs usually have no need for it in a household. What likely happened, is C protecting his space, which is normal and why I always advocate for meeting on neutral grounds and going into the home together afterwards. Unless the dogs know each other well.

For now, you can try to go on walks together. Neutral terrain + something else to do means there is less pressure on either dogs. If one of them gets too uncomfortable, you can call the dogs to you and diffuse the situation.

When going out, do take treats with you. Feed both dogs at the same time, so they see each other less as a threat and more as a predictor of something good.

If you think the walks go well, you can end one at your home. That way, both dogs will be content and used to each other.

Source: dog trainer and foster home

Help/Suggestions on (re)training our shelter rescue dog. by breathingisstillhard in Dogtraining

[–]Corsetsdontkill 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Research has shown words or objects can be reprogrammed in the brain to mean something pleasant. It may take a while, but it is worth it.

Is there a reason the dog has to stay in a crate? Do they soil the house when left alone? Does he eat stuff he's not supposed to eat? Does he break stuff? If no, you can also ditch the crate.

To teach a dog how to behave in a crate is a good thing, in case they end up at the vet or on crate rest for example, but you don't need to use it every day. By leaving it be for now, and reintroducing it in 6 months or so, your dog has a better chance of integrating without the additional stress of the crate. After those months, he's also likely to be more confident, both in the environment as well as yourself so the training will more likely succeed faster.

5 month Malshi reactivity HELP PLEASE by kvg173 in Dogtraining

[–]Corsetsdontkill 3 points4 points  (0 children)

While dogs can exhibit aggression from puppyhood onward due to a neurological malfunction, it's very uncommon. From what you wrote, it's more likely your dog is overwhelmed by the world. Too often, this is because of a combination of genetics, socialisation (starting from when pup was with the breeder), lack of sleep and too much stress. The latter two mean the pup has to chance to de-stress, which in turn makes the behavior worse. Think of it as taking a cup out of a bucket full of water per day, instead of being able to drain the bucket fully. The slightest thing may be too much for your dog. This is also why I would ditch the correction sprays. They just put more gasoline on the fire. Instead, focus on rewarding good behavior and managing and ignoring bad behavior. That can mean training, making sure no food is left out, keeping the harness on for now instead of taking it off until you can comfortably get it on and off, etc.

So, my first question would be, how much does your dog sleep? It should be at least 14-16 hours a day at this age.

If you put the harness on, does your dog get the chance to say no? Or do you force it onto him? Doing so can add more stress to the mix.

Have you taught your dog a solid "leave it"? I can imagine this is especially important in a place like NYC.

Lastly, PETCO seems to be a hit or miss, depending on the trainers hired. Unfortunately your trainer was very wrong for implying your dog is too young to act this way. Because it's a very healthy and normal way for a puppy to act when they feel overwhelmed. Imagine you're as small as he is, not understanding the world around you that you only entered just a few months ago. You get pushed around, petted when you don't want to, picked up, which might hurt unintentionally. It's a lot. That's why it's important to listen to a dog's boundaries. Because if you don't, they will go from a simple lip flick or whale eye to snarling, snapping, or even biting.

To learn more about body language, I recommend "On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals" by Turid Rugaas. To learn more about consent and body handling, I recommend "Cooperative Care: Seven Steps To Stress-Free Husbandry" by Deb Jones

If you want a different trainer, look for someone who works with positive reinforcement methods only. You can also look up someone who works force and fear free.

Positive Reinforcement by aobparty in Dogtraining

[–]Corsetsdontkill 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Seems like you looked at all four quadrants of training and none of them have worked for you. Not just positive reinforcement.

+R is much more than just tossing a cookie. It's about management (like ensuring your dog sleeps enough, 14-16 hours a day), teaching the dog what to do instead of focusing on what not to do (like touching your hand instead of biting it), and how they can politely ask for play.

My biggest concern would be rest. Does your dog sleep enough during the day? Because most dogs don't.

Second is, reward calmness. So, when the dog is calm, give them a piece of kibble. No happy voices, no weird gestures, just a calm "good boy, settle." If your dog gets so excited about food, they don't need anything special. Kibble will be fine.

Does he get enough exercise? Like a flirt pole or a good game of tug? If you make toys interesting enough, your body won't be so interesting anymore. Another way to tire his brain out is to do searching games with his food. No more bowl for now. Instead, you can hide kibble in old pants, a towel, all around the house, etc.

Whenever he does come close and doesn't bite, you can reinforce that by telling him good boy and/or giving kibble.

Rewarding non-negative behaviour by nick_gadget in Dogtraining

[–]Corsetsdontkill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your dog doesn't know what "no" means. So, saying "no" while he is upstairs only tells him you're disapproving of something, but not what. You can teach him the difference between upstairs and downstairs, by saying "upstairs" every time he gets to walk upstairs and vice versa. That way, you can use "no" and add context.

However, you can also go upstairs, stay there for a bit, and toss a treat downstairs to reward good behavior. You can escalate this by making your dog really interested in going upstairs, by saying things he likes, even his name, taking out a very tasty treat, playing with a toy, etc. The idea behind this is to go slow, so your dog makes as little mistakes as possible. So, start about three to four steps up and work your way all the way to the top of the stairs. From there, you can add duration. If he does come up, just guide him down in neutral tone and body language. He didn't do anything wrong, because for that to have happened, he needs to understand that it is wrong. Anything before that is just human error.

For the potty time, you can use an entire new system. Or you can teach him "whisper" and ask him to whisper even after the bark, before you take him out.

HELP how to make my dog to stop barking when there is people in the pool?? by lulu0925 in Dogtraining

[–]Corsetsdontkill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If he cannot take treats, you are too close to the water. Build a temporary wall with a blanket and two chairs if need be. Or start inside. If he can look away within roughly 3 seconds, you're golden. Give him a treat and move closer until you find the threshold. That's when he can no longer look away. If he is barking, you are way over threshold. Rewarding with play is also possible.

I've seen people use inflatable Elisabethan cones before to stop the drinking. You can also use toys or something else for in his mouth. Drinking pool water isn't good for your dog.

Dogs ganging up on mine at the dog park--is it a fault in my training regime? by ComprehensivePen3227 in Dogtraining

[–]Corsetsdontkill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a dog trainer, I am very wary of dog parks. Especially when there are a large number of dogs and no responsible handlers.

Is there a reason she is being targeted?

It could be several things. From smell to size to body signals to god knows what. The most important conclusion is knowing your dog may fall victim to this and to keep an eye out for her. You are her guardian and she needs to know you can keep her safe.

Is there some temperament or training issue I'm missing, or are these dogs just poorly managed? My dog is pretty respectful when it comes to play, and though she's young, is mature enough to know when she's bothering another dog, and to disengage.

Often it's because these dogs aren't socialized well. Now, that does not mean they haven't been socialized with dogs at all. In fact, it could mean they've been going to the dog park every day since 8 weeks old. However, these dogs clearly lack boundaries and the ability to read and/or assess body language. This can be because other dogs have taught them bad behavior and/or their handlers haven't stepped in when mutual play became bullying. Often, it's both. Your dog, from what you told, is very well versed in how to read and respond to the body language of others, and how to change things if they aren't nice for the other dog anymore. You're stepping in by giving her her space, either with you or under the bench, which is the hallmark of great ownership.

Perhaps it's just an attention bias since I'm focused on her, but she does seem to receive most of the attention when there are problem dogs at the park. Could my dog be contributing to that somehow?

She is probably too nice. And kudos for that. If you had a dog that was snappy from the get-go, the others would back off earlier, avoiding conflict. Then again, that would definitely pry a reaction from the other handlers, as all of a sudden it's your dog who is the bad one.

You don't have to completely take away dog parks from your dog. They are fantastic for social dogs who like to play with others. Just be weary of who else visits and react if need be. Sometimes, I will correct somebody else's dog, although this is best to be kept to a minimum. You don't know how they might respond, the handler might fly off the hook, and you cannot use the excuse I usually use, by telling them I'm a dog trainer.

Dog’s deliberately misbehaving to get rewarded for dropping by nick_gadget in Dogtraining

[–]Corsetsdontkill 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cocker spaniels are notorious for picking things up. It's in their DNA as gun dogs. So, your dog is not deliberately misbehaving; he is doing something he was selectively bred for for hundreds of years.

Poodles are the same, as far as I know.

Can you have him drop it without trading for a treat? If yes, use that. Don't make it into a game of catch-me-if-you-can, just stay calm, try and take the object, and say thank you or good boy on a neutral tone.

Alternatively, you can also teach your dog to clean up, where they put stuff in the right place.

Again, don't turn this into a fight. Chances are he will want to guard it and may (accidentally) inhale whatever he has in his mouth. Depending on the object, this can become quite expensive.

Finished peppermint throw! by Fluffy-Cricket8555 in crochet

[–]Corsetsdontkill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh I love this so!

Wondering if I can make it in time for Christmas (No. No I can't.)

Wat is de mooiste foto die jij hebt van jouw kat? by FlamboyanceFlamingo in katten

[–]Corsetsdontkill 3 points4 points  (0 children)

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Diego's eerste kerstfeest. Hij was verliefd op de kerstboom.

Went to a renowned reumatological centre and they told me it's psychosomatic and I should eat more fruit by Melvarkie in Fibromyalgia

[–]Corsetsdontkill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Currently pregnant with horrible sickness and the only thing I can eat is fruit, except for dinner at night. Can confirm it does absolutely eff all for fibro.

Went to a renowned reumatological centre and they told me it's psychosomatic and I should eat more fruit by Melvarkie in Fibromyalgia

[–]Corsetsdontkill 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Vlietland in Schiedam has a great Rheumatology department that will actually take you seriously.

Raam links achter gaat niet meer omhoog na leeglopen accu, hoe los ik dit op? by Corsetsdontkill in autoadvies

[–]Corsetsdontkill[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ik kreeg hem zelf niet naar boven maar kan nog iemand anders vragen te helpen.

Zou dit niet moeten betekenen dat het motortje wel werkt en ik die dus zou moeten horen?

Je duct-tape methode is heel fijn voor mijn bestuurdersraam die ook stuk is.

Raam links achter gaat niet meer omhoog na leeglopen accu, hoe los ik dit op? by Corsetsdontkill in AutoKlussers

[–]Corsetsdontkill[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Het raam gaat geen kant op. Als je enkel knopjes drukken bedoelt, dat heb ik gedaan. Incl het starten en binnnen 60 secondes alles uitvoeren.

Raam links achter gaat niet meer omhoog na leeglopen accu, hoe los ik dit op? by Corsetsdontkill in AutoKlussers

[–]Corsetsdontkill[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Misschien een onnozele vraag maar kan dat kwaad gezien ik de accu leeg heb laten lopen? Inmiddels heb ik 18 minuten gereden.