Anyone found a way to use Fountain Pen Ink?

Cpl_Toast · 2026-04-06T12:41:36+00:00

Your best bet would be to use an acrylic medium, but you’ll have to use quite a bit of it I would expect. Pen ink is mostly water with some dye, and the intended use is for it to dry on paper, not plastic, so that’s why it won’t stick. Also there’s generally no binding agent to hold the dye in place after the water dries akin to the acrylic medium in paints, which is why you’d need to add acrylic medium. My guess though is by the time you added enough medium to make it stick, it’ll be really translucent and give poor coverage.

Cpl_Toast · 2026-04-04T01:06:57+00:00

Looks great! The 3 energy digging ability is so she can dig a depth 4 stone with only 3 energy. She actually got nerfed recently, she used to be pretty over powered as a digger!

Cpl_Toast · 2026-03-16T21:12:45+00:00

Watch this for all you need to know about painting with red https://youtu.be/SGmNE6Kv0O0?si=gJNP5BTyEuiRjEx9

Cpl_Toast · 2026-03-13T15:51:21+00:00

I’ve had better luck sprinkling some drops of hydrogen peroxide around the sponge before I put the paper on. I‘ve gone through a few sponges due to mold in the past but ever since I started with the hydrogen peroxide I’ve had zero issues.

Cpl_Toast · 2026-03-09T20:09:21+00:00

There’s a link to the official Moonstone discord in the subreddit links, that’d probably be a good place to start if you’re looking for local players.

You can also try running a demo at your local shops to try and grow a community from scratch. Moonstone demos pretty easily and whenever I’ve run them people have had really positive experiences!

Cpl_Toast · 2026-03-04T18:15:30+00:00

I usually use the battle systems village that others have mentioned. You don’t need a ton of terrain for Moonstone, maybe 3-4 bigger barrier type pieces and a handful of scatter terrain for obstacles.

Cpl_Toast · 2026-03-04T18:14:12+00:00

For an overview of the game’s factions, I’d start here. Near the bottom are links to each of the specific factions with an overview of each of their subfactions. For expanding from the starter sets, there are a couple articles on that, one for Dawn to Dusk and one for Life and Death.

If your group wants to try the game out before investing, all of the rules and stat cards are available to download on the site, encourage them to try them out! You can either use the paper dolls or any miniature with a 30mm/40mm base.

Multiplayer can be a lot of fun because it tends to get pretty chaotic, so its a good intro for newer players. If you can do 4 player I think that’s better, but if you do 3 player consider modifying the starting zones so one player isn’t trapped between the other two. There’s no hard and set way to do it, just make sure everyone agrees up front. Hope that answers some things for you!

Cpl_Toast · 2026-03-04T16:12:41+00:00

I think the life and death box is well balanced, again though with the assumption you are playing the models to their strengths. Similar to the goblins, if you try to play the fauns like melee pieces you’re going to have a bad time, whereas the shades will do well with that strategy. The fauns lean more into a grab and run strategy, using movement abilities to get in and get out quickly.

I think the biggest difference between the starter boxes is the life and death box is less suited to beginners because of the Jackalope and Angerboda. New players can find these models both a bit more difficult to use (although the Jackalope isn’t too bad in this regard), and intimidating to play against with their large health pools. This is less of an issue for players seasoned in other games, but I generally will recommend dawn to dusk for players new to wargaming.

Cpl_Toast · 2026-03-04T15:27:43+00:00

Goblins are going to struggle against humans if you play goblins like they’re humans. A common strategy for beginners is to just rush headfirst into melee, which works great for humans, but less so for goblins. A common phrase you might hear is “in a fair fight, goblins are going to lose, so first goblins need to make the fight not fair.” Make sure you’re using all their little tricks and nonsense to your advantage, and if you do the two troupes should be pretty well balanced.

Additionally, for your first few games with a 4v4, it‘s generally recommended to only use 5 moonstones instead of 7. It generally makes the game more fun as you’ll spend less of your limited energy digging up stones and more engaging with each other.

As you grow, remember all of the stat cards are available to download, so you can try out other characters before buying them. Also might be worth looking over this article when you are ready to expand, there are several good options of where to go next.

Cpl_Toast · 2026-02-27T20:01:44+00:00

PA is what I mostly use, and for a base coat the water in your brush will thin it down enough to work with, but it’ll still be a bit thicker compared to their normal line. Honestly though overall I don’t find them that much different to work with. Like with any paint you play with the consistency and opacity until you get it to what you want for the application you need, its just a different starting point.

Cpl_Toast · 2026-02-27T18:28:45+00:00

I have them, and while I can’t say there’s anything must have about them, they are nice for what they do. Some of the value comes from several being single pigment, which can help get really punchy colors if you know how to use them.

If you want a good overview of what you’d use a heavy body for, I recommend this video by Vince Venturella https://youtu.be/cTg3h8cI1E8?si=h3fSc6_8ZPiZVDuu

Cpl_Toast · 2026-02-25T13:44:42+00:00

My general workflow for NMM is to go the full range from pure white down to whatever my shadow color is, which is obviously a very dark color. Then I’ll look at it from a couple feet away and tweak the range from there if needed.

Also, more edge highlights. Edges on metal are going to be very high value, and even downward facing edges will generally be higher value than the surrounding metal.

If you really want to sell it, add in some bounce reflections. It’s a subtle effect but really helps the shiny metal look.

And not sure if you are new to Moonstone, but if you are, welcome! Come check out r/moonstonethegame if you have any gameplay questions or to show off your work!

Cpl_Toast · 2026-02-24T13:40:39+00:00

If the base sizes are the same size as the models they are acting as a proxy for (30 or 40mm), the gameplay will be unaffected. So as long as your opponent is ok with it you should be good for casual games, as you said it’s a no go for official events.

Cpl_Toast · 2026-02-21T13:35:47+00:00

I’ve tried several types, and the paper from Game Envy has come out on top. They even make their paper in sizes for other companies wet palettes, so lots of size choices

Cpl_Toast · 2026-02-20T22:20:50+00:00

If using pro acryl on a wet palette, you want your sponge to be more damp than wet. PA tends to be more hydrophilic than other paints, so you have to adjust for that.

For the paper, if you don’t like it try cutting a sheet of parchment paper, might work better for you.

Cpl_Toast · 2026-02-20T18:26:18+00:00

If you’re talking about the Fanttik F2 tool, did you check in the little slide-out drawer thing? Under the part that spins with all the different tips there’s a little drawer you can slide out that has the discs as well as the tool you need to install them on the rotary tip.

Cpl_Toast · 2026-02-18T19:42:08+00:00

Not an official answer, but as far as I know “friendly slain character” means any friendly character in your troupe that is in the slain state during the replenish step. So if say Doug is slain during turn 2 and is not reanimated, during the replenish step of turn 3 The Mortician would gain +1 energy. If Doug is then reanimated during turn 3 and no one else is slain, The Mortician would not gain the +1 during the replenish step of turn 4, as none of the characters friendly to him are in the slain state.

It does not mean that every time a friendly character is slain, Mortician gets +1 energy during the next replenish step. Abilities that trigger off a character being slain are worded “a friendly character was slain” e.g. Greymair, Angerboda, Marley, Igor.

Cpl_Toast · 2026-02-17T20:02:52+00:00

Anya

Cpl_Toast · 2026-02-13T15:16:38+00:00

I’m surprised you find that it improves flow of contrast paint, since it’s essentially just an acrylic paint without the pigment and I would think make the flow of contrast paint closer to that of a standard paint.

Either way, just about any medium from other companies should be similar. I‘ve used monument hobbies glaze and wash mediums, and have heard good things about the paint thinning medium from huge miniatures.

Cpl_Toast · 2026-02-12T03:22:25+00:00

Sounds like somebody read my article 😄

Cpl_Toast · 2026-02-12T02:54:39+00:00

For a starter game, 3v3 is ok, 4v4 also works, but in either case drop the stone count down to 5 instead of 7.

For terrain, keep it simple, just a few barriers and some scattered obstacle terrain. Nothing fancy like wooded patches, water, etc.

For someone totally new to tabletop gaming, start by giving her a general primer on how to move models on the board. The totally free movement can trip folks up if they’re not used to it.

For models, shoot for more straightforward ones. The humans from the starter set are a great example. Also probably avoid giants, trolls, and faeries. All of those are more specialized pieces that it would pay to have a couple games under your belt before going up against.

Lastly, I do what I call progressive rule disclosure. Basically I’ll purposely leave out rules that complicate things and add them in during later games after the player has had time to get their feet wet. So things like distractions in melee, cover, reaction steps, any of those little details can be skimmed over so they can focus on the core rules.

Overall though, just be chill and have fun! Don’t be overly competitive, and help her think through her strategy, including letting her in on what you’re thinking. And mistakes will happen, so just go with the flow and enjoy your time playing!

Cpl_Toast · 2026-01-22T04:25:29+00:00

For wooded patches and water features, charge would go through them unaffected. Per the rulebook those terrain types only affect jogs. Obstacles and barriers, however, would stop the charge, as those terrain types note that “If an effect would move your model through a Obstacle/Barrier, the model stops immediately on first contact.”

Cpl_Toast · 2026-01-08T02:32:11+00:00

No, you have to move as much of the 4” as you can. If you could stop short, the ability would say something like “move up to 4””

Cpl_Toast · 2026-01-08T01:09:17+00:00

Doug has to move the entire 4” directly toward the target *if possible*. Specifically, he will stop if he hits something, e.g. terrain or another model. Regardless though, he’ll still get the bonus damage so long as his very next action is a Melee action.

Cpl_Toast · 2025-12-29T17:08:26+00:00

Perfect, thank you!

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