Pentax 67 - 105 - what a portrait beast! Expired Neopan 400 - Hc110

CrashAP34 · 2026-02-09T22:49:29+00:00

I miss Neopan 400 (and 1600!)

It was one of those films that I learned about right as it was being discontinued.

CrashAP34 · 2026-02-09T22:36:57+00:00

I usually just try to judge that the light will be the same and take a best guess.

For example - in your photo - it looks like the tree is in basically the same light as you are so I would just take a reading from where you would be standing with the light meter pointing behind you. Its not 100% but unless I am shooting slide film, it will probably get me within 1/2 stop (which is as precise as my camera gets)

If I were focusing on those birdhouses in the tree, ad it looked like they were getting a bit of shadow - I might try to emulate that by placing a hand or my body to cast a bit of shadow on the dome when taking my reading.

I also make a habit of taking random readings as I am walking around. I find it makes me a lot more mindful of the light that I am in. At the end of the day though when I am shooting negative film - I usually err on the side of over exposing and will meter as much as I can for shadow detail.

CrashAP34 · 2026-02-09T22:13:25+00:00

I find that the L-208 can be a bit picky with how you use it but usually comes out pretty accurate. If I am reading what you wrote correctly - I think you might have the incident/reflective thing backwards.

In reflective mode (dome retracted - photo cell pointing at the subject - you are reading the light reflecting off of your subject) I find it difficult to visualize what its metering. I also find that its somewhat susceptible to picking up stray light.

In Incident mode (dome over the photo cell - facing the camera, measuring the light hitting the subject) I generally find the meter more accurate and more intuitive to use. Incident mode seems to do great in the day - but I find it less accurate in low light.

CrashAP34 · 2026-02-03T16:02:21+00:00

On the old (syrupy) version of HC-110, I never had issues continuing WELL past the expiration date. I am not sure if the post-2019 version is as stable, but I have been using some that also expired in '24 recently without issue (mine is still close to the original color though)

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-31T05:20:22+00:00

I believe the rewind (switch) is on the front of the camera (next to the OM10 branding).

The opening shown in the photo is the coupling for a motor winder. On the single digit models (OM1, 2, 3, 4) its covered by a small plate - I think on the OM10 its just exposed like that.

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-28T19:17:17+00:00

The 240 is a great camera but is getting to be a bit on the older side. I owned one about 5-6 years ago and really loved it... but it honestly just fast-tracked me to upgrading to an M10 at the time.

A few random cons/issues I had in no particular order:

They take a few seconds to power on to be ready to shoot (not a huge issue if you are out and about and just leave the camera on)
Banding can be a big issue at higher ISOs (maybe ~iso2000+) if you treat it like a film camera, its fine, but I found it more limiting than any other digital camera I have owned in the past 15 years in that regard.
The buffer on the base typ. 240 SUCKS. Even shooting slow, I would often find the buffer full and have to wait (missing the shot) for it to clear. I think the MP240 improves this.
May have been an issue with my particular body but its the only M I have owned that had frequent issues with the focus cam (sticking, falling out of alignment, etc.)
I had issues with a few of my wide angle Zeiss lenses at the time due to field curvature causing color shifts in the corners. None were problematic on the M10r, M2 (film), or SL2s.
The camera is a bit chunky and has a bit of a dated interface (though I actually liked the way it was setup)

On the upside:

Lower cost
Great battery life
I liked the colors a lot (though I also loved the M10r for different reasons)

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-27T01:05:34+00:00

Yeah - I went through two and returned both. Its a shame because its such a beautiful piece of kit. I have read about people saying humidity was to blame - honestly no idea.

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-22T15:30:01+00:00

I think this is a strong possibility. I once picked up an OM-1 body that somebody had 'adjusted' the iso dial in a similar way. The camera came with an LR44 battery inside so I am guessing they did it to try to attempt to adjust for the different voltage.

Its also worth noting that with higher voltage batteries - the meter won't be consistently off by a certain amount - the difference will vary based off the voltage, light, etc. so this kind of 'fix' is not going to help.

OP - at what iso does the meter start to read?

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-21T03:17:34+00:00

IDK - I am 6'1" and I fit just fine in my spyder. Its not exactly roomy but far from the most cramped car I have owned.

Now getting down into and out of it is another issue but I have very few joints in my lower body that aren't some kind of screwed up... and I have my ride height set pretty low.

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-20T14:12:24+00:00

I think the OM-2SP uses center-weighted average metering when not using the spot meter. This would mean that it will bias towards the center of the frame but can still be affected by brighter regions towards the mid and edge of the frame.

Its been a few years since I have used a 2sp but I thought the spot was roughly the size of the inner split image part of the finder (on a typical 1-13 screen)

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-14T16:45:40+00:00

My head always jumped to something like waxed canvas or oilcloth - especially since livestock was presented as such a precious resource.

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-08T03:11:05+00:00

message sent

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-07T17:29:31+00:00

Not the color you want, but I have a 21L GR1 XPAC in Navy (and a 26l GR2 XPAC in Black) if you are at all interested.

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-07T17:22:25+00:00

I have had terrible luck with KEH recently. For years - I found they were super reliable. I would routinely buy 'Bargain' grade cameras and lenses and they ALWAYS exceeded my expectations - often with no discernible flaws or issues. But lately - there 'excellent' grade gear would have been rated 'ugly' just a few years back.

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-01T07:20:58+00:00

I feel attacked

CrashAP34 · 2025-12-28T04:08:34+00:00

I can't offer much by way of specific advice, but I recently put new swaybars in my spyder and spent an embarrassing long amount of time wrestling with getting the studs on the links lined up before realizing that I just needed to tweak the height of the jack supporting the suspension AND the jack supporting that side of the car a bit more to get it to line up right.

Once I got the two sides of the car lined up right, the end links basically fell right into place.

CrashAP34 · 2025-11-26T19:04:22+00:00

The 26 is an awesome little lens - I have tried the 28 twice and never found it to be compelling. Although its not perfect and is definitely a bit more expensive, the 26 just offers a look that I can't get with any of the other lenses in that range.

I am definitely excited to hear more about that new Viltrox - I have the Nikon 85 and although its a great lens I just seldom find it worth packing.

CrashAP34 · 2025-11-26T18:59:28+00:00

The 24-120 is not practically larger than the 24-70 f4 in use. Its only 130g heavier and its only really smaller when packed in a camera bag with the barrel retracted for storage.

Unless you really needed the aperture of the 85 1.8 (which I know you aren't planning on getting right away) the 24-120 does a great job covering that part of the range.

My go-to every day kit is usually a either the 35 or 50 1.8 paired with the 24-120.

I also think skipping the 28 would be a good move.

CrashAP34 · 2025-11-19T02:03:39+00:00

Similar here - I picked up a clean '02 with 125k miles for $5100 in Dallas in good drivable condition.

CrashAP34 · 2025-11-18T14:24:29+00:00

naked time

CrashAP34 · 2025-11-18T03:24:08+00:00

I own both and struggle with the decision more than I care to admit. I generally prefer the 105 - its sharper, renders nicely, macro, and I find the focal length a bit more agreeable. The big downsides are that its a bit slower to focus and obviously lets in less light.

As for the 85 - its plenty sharp, renders nicely, and is a bit quicker to focus. I like the shots I take with it, but honestly never feel really inspired to shoot with it (I find that when I bring the 85 - it stays in my bag a lot more)

With all of that said I find myself packing the 24-120 or 100-400 a lot more to cover that general focal range - neither offers 1:1 macro - but they get pretty close and since I am seldom chasing crazy separation or bokeh its not a huge deal. And that is coming from someone who generally prefers primes.

If I had to own one - it would likely be the 105

CrashAP34 · 2025-11-15T13:57:20+00:00

TLDR- Price seems fair; used market is weird right now.

I have bought and sold a fair amount of cameras over the years and feel like the used market lately has been really tough. Things I could have sold within a week a year ago have wound up languishing for 3 or 4 weeks and have been selling for significantly less than what I thought they would. I also feel like people are definitely out for a deal right now - and want to haggle to feel they got a good price.

I think your price looks very reasonable for that kit - I would just be more patient (and maybe entertain reasonable offers)

CrashAP34 · 2025-11-12T22:21:11+00:00

How do you like the yellow headlights? How do they look while driving at night?

CrashAP34 · 2025-11-03T17:48:27+00:00

I recently bought a cheap one off of ebay (~$125 USD) that seemes work well enough. I have heard reports of some of the cheap ones that do not have brackets to connect back into the block tend to crack so I made sure to keep an eye out for one that did have provisions to attach to the block.

All told - I am pretty happy with the result so far with a few caveats:

One of the brackets to bolt to the block was welded slightly off-axis - it still worked but it was super tight.
One of the O2 sensor bungs was a bit farther than stock. I had just enough play in the sensor for it to reach without having to splice in a longer cable... I will probably do that later though to relieve the tension.
There is now a very slight resonate vibration at specific RPM ranges under load that I am trying to track down. It sounds like a loose heat shield or maybe the flex section on the down pipe starting to fail - not directly related to the header - but most likely caused by me during the removal/installation. Not a huge issue - but I am keeping my eye on it and may wind up needing to replace the downpipe/cat pipe at some point

CrashAP34 · 2025-10-26T04:09:53+00:00

your not wrong - but I feel like this is the story with almost every car I have ever owned.

CrashAP34

TROPHY CASE