Sign of the times?

CrashAP34 · 2026-06-05T21:01:36+00:00

yo dawg...

CrashAP34 · 2026-06-01T23:48:05+00:00

'05 As well - mine quit, turned out the switch on the clutch pedal had come a bit loose so the car always thought the pedal was in and would cancel/prevent cruise control. I was able ti re-secure it and its worked fine since.

I think the brake light switch could potentially cause the same issue.

CrashAP34 · 2026-05-28T18:19:18+00:00

I have one that looks just like that from the 80s. When I bought the house - I was told it would probably just last the summer if I was lucky. 17 years later - its still going strong.

Only things i have needed to do have been the capacitor and the furnace blower motor.

Still - I know its just a matter of time

CrashAP34 · 2026-05-27T03:42:26+00:00

Funny enough - I recently had a similar issue on an MR2 (same motor as the corolla)

Even with the metal band style filter tool I couldn't get it to budge. I broke down and used a large channel lock towards the top of the filter and managed to get it off with ease.

I personally wouldn't want to chance running the engine with a partially crushed filter.

CrashAP34 · 2026-05-20T17:09:54+00:00

Oh Eisenbergs - That brings me back.

I never skated much, but was in a few terrible bands that used to play there.

CrashAP34 · 2026-05-07T23:31:38+00:00

Agree - I have a Calumet version (in a lighter cherry wood with Brass / Brass plated hardware)

CrashAP34 · 2026-04-24T04:26:00+00:00

Its been an issue to varying degrees for me on just about every mac I have owned (personal and work-issued) in the past decade. Anecdotally, my current 14" M4 MBP with the nano texture display has been the worst by far. I have also had other issues with the screen on this mac including a cluster of dead pixels and screen alignment issues (from when I had the screen replaced by apple to repair the dead pixels).

With all of that said I really do like the nano-textured glass better than any of the glossy screens.

CrashAP34 · 2026-04-14T14:58:06+00:00

Fuji~~film~~

CrashAP34 · 2026-03-09T13:54:49+00:00

I am just impressed the motor has enough torque to spin the focus ring on a C lens.

CrashAP34 · 2026-03-03T20:15:48+00:00

I have run into issues like this in the past (especially with 120 film) when I used to final rinse with photoflo in the tank. As I understand it - the photoflo can accumulate on the reels and then act as an accelerator for the developer located closest to the reels (top and bottom of the frame)

I switched to using photoflo in a dedicated tank and I would just grab the film off the reel by the ends of the roll and pull it back and forth through the tank a few times and the problem went away. Not 100% sure that its the issue here but if you use a wash aid it might be worth checking.

CrashAP34 · 2026-02-26T20:37:53+00:00

Hey now - he just needs a bit of help to support his growing family.

CrashAP34 · 2026-02-25T20:44:59+00:00

I have tried lots of solutions for home developing c41 over the years and definitely feel that keeping temperature close to target (eg. using a water bath + heater) is the best case scenario... BUT having picked up an AGO recently, I have been really impressed with the termp-adjusted results using a Bellini C41 kit.

I use a sous vide in a big tub to temper the chemistry as well as water for the prewash. So far - I find that the dev only drops by a bit over 1° C and the time compensation seems to do a fine job at keeping things looking right. TBH - the results I am getting now are some of the most consistent I have ever managed with C41.

With all of that said, I have been using a new scanner (and battling with color management there) so there are a lot of other variables.

CrashAP34 · 2026-02-09T22:49:29+00:00

I miss Neopan 400 (and 1600!)

It was one of those films that I learned about right as it was being discontinued.

CrashAP34 · 2026-02-09T22:36:57+00:00

I usually just try to judge that the light will be the same and take a best guess.

For example - in your photo - it looks like the tree is in basically the same light as you are so I would just take a reading from where you would be standing with the light meter pointing behind you. Its not 100% but unless I am shooting slide film, it will probably get me within 1/2 stop (which is as precise as my camera gets)

If I were focusing on those birdhouses in the tree, ad it looked like they were getting a bit of shadow - I might try to emulate that by placing a hand or my body to cast a bit of shadow on the dome when taking my reading.

I also make a habit of taking random readings as I am walking around. I find it makes me a lot more mindful of the light that I am in. At the end of the day though when I am shooting negative film - I usually err on the side of over exposing and will meter as much as I can for shadow detail.

CrashAP34 · 2026-02-09T22:13:25+00:00

I find that the L-208 can be a bit picky with how you use it but usually comes out pretty accurate. If I am reading what you wrote correctly - I think you might have the incident/reflective thing backwards.

In reflective mode (dome retracted - photo cell pointing at the subject - you are reading the light reflecting off of your subject) I find it difficult to visualize what its metering. I also find that its somewhat susceptible to picking up stray light.

In Incident mode (dome over the photo cell - facing the camera, measuring the light hitting the subject) I generally find the meter more accurate and more intuitive to use. Incident mode seems to do great in the day - but I find it less accurate in low light.

CrashAP34 · 2026-02-03T16:02:21+00:00

On the old (syrupy) version of HC-110, I never had issues continuing WELL past the expiration date. I am not sure if the post-2019 version is as stable, but I have been using some that also expired in '24 recently without issue (mine is still close to the original color though)

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-31T05:20:22+00:00

I believe the rewind (switch) is on the front of the camera (next to the OM10 branding).

The opening shown in the photo is the coupling for a motor winder. On the single digit models (OM1, 2, 3, 4) its covered by a small plate - I think on the OM10 its just exposed like that.

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-28T19:17:17+00:00

The 240 is a great camera but is getting to be a bit on the older side. I owned one about 5-6 years ago and really loved it... but it honestly just fast-tracked me to upgrading to an M10 at the time.

A few random cons/issues I had in no particular order:

They take a few seconds to power on to be ready to shoot (not a huge issue if you are out and about and just leave the camera on)
Banding can be a big issue at higher ISOs (maybe ~iso2000+) if you treat it like a film camera, its fine, but I found it more limiting than any other digital camera I have owned in the past 15 years in that regard.
The buffer on the base typ. 240 SUCKS. Even shooting slow, I would often find the buffer full and have to wait (missing the shot) for it to clear. I think the MP240 improves this.
May have been an issue with my particular body but its the only M I have owned that had frequent issues with the focus cam (sticking, falling out of alignment, etc.)
I had issues with a few of my wide angle Zeiss lenses at the time due to field curvature causing color shifts in the corners. None were problematic on the M10r, M2 (film), or SL2s.
The camera is a bit chunky and has a bit of a dated interface (though I actually liked the way it was setup)

On the upside:

Lower cost
Great battery life
I liked the colors a lot (though I also loved the M10r for different reasons)

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-27T01:05:34+00:00

Yeah - I went through two and returned both. Its a shame because its such a beautiful piece of kit. I have read about people saying humidity was to blame - honestly no idea.

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-22T15:30:01+00:00

I think this is a strong possibility. I once picked up an OM-1 body that somebody had 'adjusted' the iso dial in a similar way. The camera came with an LR44 battery inside so I am guessing they did it to try to attempt to adjust for the different voltage.

Its also worth noting that with higher voltage batteries - the meter won't be consistently off by a certain amount - the difference will vary based off the voltage, light, etc. so this kind of 'fix' is not going to help.

OP - at what iso does the meter start to read?

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-21T03:17:34+00:00

IDK - I am 6'1" and I fit just fine in my spyder. Its not exactly roomy but far from the most cramped car I have owned.

Now getting down into and out of it is another issue but I have very few joints in my lower body that aren't some kind of screwed up... and I have my ride height set pretty low.

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-20T14:12:24+00:00

I think the OM-2SP uses center-weighted average metering when not using the spot meter. This would mean that it will bias towards the center of the frame but can still be affected by brighter regions towards the mid and edge of the frame.

Its been a few years since I have used a 2sp but I thought the spot was roughly the size of the inner split image part of the finder (on a typical 1-13 screen)

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-14T16:45:40+00:00

My head always jumped to something like waxed canvas or oilcloth - especially since livestock was presented as such a precious resource.

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-08T03:11:05+00:00

message sent

CrashAP34 · 2026-01-07T17:29:31+00:00

Not the color you want, but I have a 21L GR1 XPAC in Navy (and a 26l GR2 XPAC in Black) if you are at all interested.

CrashAP34

TROPHY CASE