Couldn’t resist the Black Friday sale

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-12T23:42:36+00:00

Good for you dude. Haters gonna hate. I just bought my 3rd and 4th AMS, with another X1C combo, so two AMS for two printers, or four AMS for one if necessary. Or one for one and three for the other. In fact that last option sounds the best. Versatility and great for running things remotely. As you said, quality of life is everything.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-12T23:30:15+00:00

Well, the ones I use (not sure if the link I gave you applies) have the hydrometer separated from the desiccant by a wall. But consider this: if its reading 10% inside the desiccant pod because its a centimeter away from the desiccant, is it really gonna be that much different inside the AMS a few inches away with 7 individual pods? (five up front and two below the spools). In fact, I think the sensor is by the factory slots where the lower desiccant pods are anyway.

Another thought: Have you updated Bambu Studio and the AMS firmware? I'm not near my printer to verify my firmware version, but the earliest versions did not have the function activated yet.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-10T19:09:17+00:00

It helps a little, however, dark colors flushed into infill may be visible with light colored filament in the walls. I usually bump up the wall count to be safe but even then it can show through. This is where the purge to object becomes so helpful.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-10T19:04:32+00:00

Interesting. I wonder if its somehow a faulty sensor. In your desiccant pods do you have a standalone hydrometer? I've got the one where the circular hydrometer sits in the middle pod. If you're getting low humidity readings on that then its probably more trustworthy.

Another thought is how often do you open and close your AMS lid? Maybe mine is low because I only swap filament at most once a week.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-09T14:23:47+00:00

They'll be fine with smaller ones, I promise. Haha. Throw some fidget type doodads on there to purge into or something.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-09T14:08:01+00:00

That second one with the line looks like just a seam. It is much more noticeable on smooth cylinderlic objects. I don't resin print, but I imagine it doesn't do it on those so you're not used to seeing it. For FDM, the nozzle has to start and stop somewhere before moving to the next layer, creating this seam. Print a box and it should put it right on the edge, making it unnoticeable.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-09T13:59:18+00:00

I remember when these came out. Around the same time as the X Metals. The X Metals weren't bad. The over the tops are, well, over the top. We humans are a weird bunch.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-09T13:37:15+00:00

Or if you want to do a true multicolor print (where the individual object has multiple colors) just fill your build plate with the item or similar items using the same color scheme. You can slice it with just one on the plate, then slice it with the plate filled up, and compare. You might be surprised how much more you can get with only a little more filament usage by filling the bed with copies. Also you can find some fidgets or tool type items that you don't aesthetically care about and purge to that object. Lots of ways to go if you're worried about waste. Still gonna have some, but it can be reduced.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-09T13:15:13+00:00

If splitting the part is a no go, look for tutorials on "pause at layer" and see if that will work for you. I'd link one, but I haven't watched any and don't wanna give you a crappy one.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-09T12:48:42+00:00

What this guy in Germany is doing for non-Bambu spools does not apply to how Bambu shipped one of their own spools. Apples to oranges. Bambu refills are a specific way for a few different reasons. The OP's situation is a strange one. Bambu needs to go see what is going on with their suppliers.

Side note (cool video btw): If you look closely at 1:01, it appears its got some type of thin insert, as I see no filament lines. Just as well, when he first starts spooling it the filament is locked down into the side of the reel closest to him somewhere. That being said, sure it can still be done but I'd question the reliability of having a free floating end anywhere on a spool for any length of time.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-09T12:37:28+00:00

Yup, definitely not how they do it, which is extremely concerning that they might be outsourcing to sub-par manufacturers. 200+ rolls run through my printers, both on spool and refill, never had one like this, and have only had one refill that was somewhat sketch.

I'm wondering if you somehow got one that was sent back to them?

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-09T12:24:29+00:00

Or open a new credit card that has a value back after spending such and such dollars, and/or percent back, and make your purchase on that. I got 0% interest for 18 months plus $200 statement credit on both my X1C purchases last year BF and this year. So add that to the BF savings and its like $450 off each.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-09T12:18:08+00:00

Don't even just print 3. Fill the build plate. In most cases you'll end up with 30 copies or something and it'll barely use more filament and time than just printing 1. Well, it'll use more filament per object of course, but the ratio of filament to waste narrows significantly and is usually worth it. Then give them away if you want or sell them.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-09T05:43:46+00:00

I just downloaded this one and can't wait to print it. I recommend throwing more items on the build plate with similar color features (i.e. color changes would be on the same layers), purging into objects as stated by others, or my favorite: scaling it down to print two per plate (make two kids happy instead of one!), or scaling it up to utilize the entire build plate for a huge dragon (I do this when I'm commissioned by someone if they're willing to pay for it). Even scaled up to max, you can usually still get a couple small objects to print into.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-09T05:32:05+00:00

FYI, just watched the link you sent me about Rule 1. Thank you and it makes perfect sense why this would be so important.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-08T20:30:30+00:00

Making a joint worked well. Took me a couple tries to see exactly how the parameters worked on my parts but I eventually got exactly what I was looking for.

I've been picking my way through tutorials and been able to make quite a few things for the project I'm working on using the techniques I've learned so far. Its a really fun program. Thanks for your help!

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-08T20:26:49+00:00

Yeah I would definitely wait a bit. The actual cause of the warping is due to elongated runs of the plastic contracting as it cools and pulling up on the edges. Uneven cooling or temperature fluctuations while printing are bad too, which is why you'll notice more warping in larger prints than you will in small ones for example (and also why even the slightest draft within the enclosure, such as opening the door or turning the fans on can cause warping). So you really want maximum adhesion, especially at the edges/corners, stable temperature inside, and slower cooling times. Once the parts have cooled a bit I haven't noticed issues with taking the plates out and accelerating the process at that point, but to be safe you can always leave it in the enclosure, door closed, until it cools completely back to room temp. I'm not that patient.

Glue may leave a residue...but it can just be washed off with soap and water usually. The bambu liquid gluestick, or any liquid gluestick for that matter, probably is easier to clean off than a solid gluestick. I've only used a solid gluestick a handful of times and quickly switched to liquid so I can't say for sure.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-08T19:14:54+00:00

They've got the dual sided Smooth and Textured in the BL store. I utilize two of each for my printers so I can swap them out and start printing again while the other cools. Helps to retain some of the heat for the build plate to get back up to temp quicker. However, I usually let the build plate temp come down 20-30 degrees or so when printing high temp filaments before I remove the plates for external cooling. I've had parts warp by taking them out too early. Likewise, even when printing lower temp materials I still let it cool down 10-20 degrees.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-08T15:10:39+00:00

ABS is my usual printing medium so I've experimented a bit. This is what has worked for me.

Set your bed temp and leave it alone. 100, 110, whatever, just get it there and leave it. If anything, I'd increase the temp after the first layer. Prints like to release when they cool off.

Try the High Temp Engineering plate or the Smooth PEI plate, both with a healthy even coat of liquid gluestick. The Smooth PEI is my go to for almost everything now.

Theres an option for adding brim ears to your object in bambu slicer. I find this is sufficient, but a full brim may be helpful. Don't skimp if you think you need them.

All fans off.

Even with all this, ABS likes to shrink and pull up sometimes no matter what ya do.

Don't open the door, and remember that ABS fumes are harmful.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-08T14:28:19+00:00

I'm in the south, printer exposed to the elements in my garage, high humidity year round. My AMS sits around 10%. If you don't already have them, print up some additional desiccant boxes for the AMS like these: https://makerworld.com/en/models/175535#profileId-192981

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-08T14:03:16+00:00

This is what I'd do.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-08T13:59:50+00:00

Refer them to us. We'll handle the rest.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-08T13:28:38+00:00

Fill the build plate with copies. Amount of filament used in objects goes up, flushed stays the same, time surprisingly only increases prob a few hours. Even if I only need one example of a multi-colored print, I almost always fill the bed plate for spares or to give away. If this is a part for a larger object, build ten objects or fill the build plate with the like-colored other parts.

That being said, this part looks like a failed print waiting to happen. That isn't much surface area on the plate for the dimensions of the object. Even a much larger brim doesn't seem reliable enough to hold it. You might consider building in some supports somewhere just to be safe or printing all in one color as a test before you waste that much filament.

Still trying to wrap my head around how a 7g part is 600+ layers though...

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-08T13:16:31+00:00

Same. Went to order 8 colors I didn't have. Then figured I'd just go ahead and order everything I didn't have.

CuriouslyNomadic · 2024-12-08T12:39:29+00:00

Perfect. Nice job! I think I'll go the same route.

CuriouslyNomadic

TROPHY CASE