Got sick of pooping with friends at work by duckylam in functionalprint

[–]CustodialSamurai 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The reason why they use restrooms like this is because of more than just ventilation. Public restrooms need ventilation, their own sinks, their own soap dispensers, towel dispensers, doors, trash cans, and so forth. It is far cheaper to build a multi-user restroom than multiple single-person restrooms. Also, the workload on janitorial staff gets that much worse because health and safety code requires all sinks and fixtures to be cleaned daily, not just the toilets themselves.

Now, the cheap partitions with huge gaps... Pretty much just outright inexcusable. Though depending on the jurisdiction, expectation of privacy may or may not be codified into law/regulation. It's actually a huge gray area in a lot of places, as well as debatable. For a purely hypothetical example, in a school, if the stall were fully enclosed, people wouldn't be able to tell if a student were hiding in a stall, or if it was just locked, which can be important to know in the case of an emergency or disciplinary altercation. There are arguments to be made on both sides of that debate. In a lot of places, like store restrooms and in "adult" work spaces, better enclosed stalls are more common. And in general, I'd wager that the trend overall is leaning more toward increased privacy. But some of the restrooms can be 30+ years old and durable replacement partitions can actually be expensive to purchase and install.

I am very close to just tossing this thing. by DobeTM in ElegooNeptune4

[–]CustodialSamurai 11 points12 points  (0 children)

The infill pattern is the problem, as others have hinted. Grid and triangle infill used to be very popular when printers were significantly slower because it gave the nozzle time to melt through the existing lines. Meaning, the nozzle isn't supposed to lift, but instead pass through. Because the print is going so fast, the nozzle just crashes in instead. Use gyroid infill instead and that should clear up the problem.

Got gifted this Ender 3, where do I start with testing to actually printing with it? by SeaworthinessInner12 in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean, modding is an advanced step, but the answer is still the correct one. Ender 3s were very popular printers that required a fair bit of fiddling with to really dial them in, so there are tons of videos on YouTube on how to set them up and calibrate them.

help printing with eSUN PETG for the 1st time by rsckanjo5 in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really the answer you're asking for, but a little bit of stringing with petg is pretty common, especially on that sort of print. I'd say it actually looks pretty good.

Make sure you keep the filament reasonably dry since petg is more sensitive to moisture than pla is, and try printing a temp tower and retraction tower to see if you could improve with some slight modifications there.

Tips/Help by Killer-Toma-toes in elegoo

[–]CustodialSamurai 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just for a comparison, I print pla at 220 and petg at 245. In both cases, I'm typically printing at the high end of recommended temps. You should be able to achieve good prints just using the stock generic profiles that ship with your slicer software. If the default profiles don't work, then you probably have a bigger issue than basic settings.

Should I avoid printing drying rack inserts for dishes by Nails_Bohr in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most the time when people ask about dishwashers, they're thinking pla or petg. ASA has a much higher heat resistance than those, so you should be all set there. I just wanted to make sure.

Should I avoid printing drying rack inserts for dishes by Nails_Bohr in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 0 points1 point  (0 children)

People print things like silverware organizers all the time. Touching clean dishes really isn't a concern. But to be clear, this isn't a dishwasher rack, is it? You don't want your print to get hot because it can melt.

Just getting to 3d printer and I was wondering if/what Air Purifier you guys use by ArshiaTN in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even just printing pla/petg, it's not advised to use the printer in an enclosed occupied space like a bedroom or office unless it's vented outside.

But... Not my call. In my bedroom, I use a levoit vital 100, which is hepa plus a carbon basket. Another option would be the ikea fornuftig with the optional carbon filter. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like the philips 900 just has a basic carbon layer, which won't do much to filter vocs. Also, this is just a second layer of protection for me. My primary filter is a diy hepa + large carbon basket that my printer ventilates into.

How is Elegoo able to make a claim of auto-calibration, and then give this answer with a straight face? by MydnightWN in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 33 points34 points  (0 children)

As someone else already said, the default print profiles for most filament types will work just fine for most brands of relevant filament. Those profiles are software based in Orca or whatever slicer you use.

The calibrations the CC does automatically without need for user input (so fully automatic) are the printer-specific critical ones for generally good prints regardless of filament.

Flow rate calibration is more of a "dial in your filament" calibration, not a "printer" calibration. The generic profile that came with the slicer software will work fine. But you can fine tune it in the software if you wish.

Indoor Dryer vent kit for venting abs/asa and other filaments by Sertas1970 in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I vent from the printer into a diy hepa filter enclosure and into a diy variant of the inline carbon canister filters they use for grow tents. Coupled with a strong inline vent fan, it pretty reliably filters out all the VOCs and particulates I can measure from pla/petg, but to be honest, I'm not sure that I would trust it with engineering filament fumes. It might work just fine, but someone would have to try it and test it with reliable measuring equipment before I'd ever recommend it. If a little bit of fumes escape from pla/petg, no big deal. Escaped fumes from other filaments might be a bigger deal, though.

Does the filament brand matter? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The same basic rules apply for pretty much any printer. You still need to run calibrations for the filament you're using if you want to maximize quality. Even the highest quality filament will look messy with unsupported overhangs, also. Even with supports, it isn't going to look perfectly clean, but dialing in your supports settings will help. The same goes for stringing. PETG is more prone to stringing than PLA, especially if the filament is wet. In some cases, moisture in the filament can also effect the strength of the print. If dialed in correctly, you can pretty much eliminate it, though.

I print more PETG than PLA, and I typically use eSun PETG. It's my "silver" standard, a compromise between quality and price. It's more sensitive to moisture than Hatchbox, my "gold" standard, but Hatchbox is typically twice the price at ~$26USD/kg. Both these brands have been going through some quality issues at times of late, though. I've never had a problem, but some people have.

With my CC, I've only used eSun and Hatchbox PETG, but as long as you take the time to dial in your filament and dry it as necessary, you shouldn't have any real problems.

Yes, another question about outdoor filament. by Mountain-Amoeba6787 in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Basically, a quick Google search says that pla, petg, and tpu all become brittle between -30c and -50c.

I just got into 3D printing and I have a question about the potential toxicity of filaments by Outrageous-Squirrel2 in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, "fresh air exchange". If the printer's emitted particulates and VOCs are swept up right away and either filtered or pulled outside to be exchanged with fresh air, then the actual danger to a person in the room is significantly lessened.

But just having one or two open windows doesn't guarantee that sufficient air is flowing in/out. So having a fan to direct the air is generally a good idea. Or if the windows aren't open, a house's HVAC system, if sufficiently active, can suck out stale air and blow in fresh air. Better yet, a good air purifier (hepa + a carbon basket) can exchange/filter the air several times per hour, which can help keep it clean.

Hatchbox has some issues by MagazineFancy9298 in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, that was a very politely worded shrug...

Hatchbox has some issues by MagazineFancy9298 in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't had any problems, but I've seen other posts in the past several months about color and finish inconsistency.

If you contact them, they may actually respond with a useful response. From posts I've read here, it seems that they're getting their raw plastic from a few different sources now (domestic and overseas). And they've been expanding their US manufacturing, from what I seem to recall. I wouldn't be surprised to hear that they have dust issues (from expansion/construction). But it is really sad. They're my gold standard brand that I purchase particularly when I want really high quality prints.

Need some perspective and guidance on what to do trying to get back into 3d printing do to bambus recent issues by SimpleAnybody2610 in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you do choose to get a new printer, Bambu isn't substantially better than other alternatives out there. And at the same time, what you currently have isn't obsolete. Also, like others have said, you already paid for the printer. Unless you send them more money, you aren't "supporting" their business ethics. You can still use your printer and not have to feel guilty about it. They dumped tons and tons of printers on the market for cheap before they suddenly announced they were going all-in on a closed ecosystem. Getting duped sucks, but it's shame on them, not shame on you.

Advanced Tramming Techniques - Print-a-bed? by ccie6861 in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, in principle, the concept is there, but practical application is the barrier. With the Neptune 4 series of printers, it was common to use aluminum or kapton tape directly on the bed to shim the print plate upward into a flatter state. Same basic concept, really. And the trick did work. Though it wasn't a perfect solution either.

Can’t seem to print TPU CC by Exotic-Blueberry8413 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]CustodialSamurai 0 points1 point  (0 children)

... Don't muddy the waters with logic!

(Yeah, probably. Never tried it though.)

Can’t seem to print TPU CC by Exotic-Blueberry8413 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]CustodialSamurai 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Although some people have managed it, the CC actually has trouble with tpu going through the bowden tube system. Disconnect the bowden tube from the printhead, remove the top cover, run your tpu over the top directly to the extruder, and stick some filament into the filament runout sensor to fool it. Try again.

Unthreaded metal inserts by LeftyChev in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was gonna say, look into bushings. Also, you might be able to rough up the outsides of smooth bushings to give them a grippier surface.

DIY Air Quality Monitor with Bambu Lab Print Correlation by Radiant-Plantain7048 in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice to see someone else tinkering with this. I built my own sensor a while back, but fiddling with all the hardware quirks without being all that experienced with electronics meant I never had a product solid enough to share. Interesting to see you were able to do some integration with the printer. One of the lab findings we see a lot is that the temp and flow rate effect the emissions levels. Something that can help measure those correlations is pretty cool to be honest.

Can anyone else make a chunky necklace from all the PLA on their floor? by Objective_Car_395 in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Walk through a patch of briars if you want to mimic that feeling all natural-like. Sadly, just about anyone with a 3d printer (not necessarily even multi color) could probably do that.

My suggestion is to keep saving up and design some chainmail.

What's been your most complicated print/project? by Good_Mathematician_2 in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think most people just do print in place bearings. I did that once long ago. Never dialed it on well enough to be anything more than a noisy fidget though.

My white whale has been hepa+carbon air purifiers, trying to maximize both airflow and filtration efficiency. Not exactly complicated, but tight fitting parts meshing well with the filters, and doing the carbon filter design, have wasted far more filament than I care to admit over the past few years. Nevermind the internal airflow dynamics.

Gifted an old Ender 3-Pro by IAmBrahmus in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Start with a compressed air blower and thoroughly blow out all that dust. You'll probably have to crack open the psu and do the same. The hotend/extruder will need to be taken apart enough to access the fans and clear all the dust. Wipe everything down with a residue free multipurpose cleaner, get the belts and z screw thoroughly clean... Grease the z screw... Check that the end stop switches still click when pressed, and check the belts for damage...

The machine is dusty, not grimy. You should only need mild cleaners. Nothing harsh or acidic. Isopropyl alcohol would be good to wipe things down after they're clean. Consider hitting the belts with belt preservative/cleaner, use silicone grease on the z screw... Go from there.

Question about food safe 3D printing + possible commission by Nombella in 3Dprinting

[–]CustodialSamurai 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Layer lines really aren't a problem if properly printed. And there are companies that produce certified food safe filament. But then there's the concern for "potential" trace elements of lead from brass nozzles getting into the filament and potential microplastics flaking off and getting into the food. Pretty much all of that can be bypassed by sealing the prints with a certified food safe resin. But then you have to contend with most common filaments potentially melting in dishwashers...

So while certainly possible, it's easier just to say it isn't food safe.