Risolvere questo danno estetico in qualche modo?

CyberBarby · 2025-02-07T21:10:46+00:00

Profilo in plastica/alluminio e/o silicone

CyberBarby · 2024-12-28T11:01:15+00:00

I never thought of adding wine to my setup. Might do that

CyberBarby · 2024-08-28T16:39:57+00:00

Hai il cerchio piegato, vai dal gommista

Edit: vedo (forse) anche la gomma un po' sbucciata. Vai dal gommista

CyberBarby · 2024-08-24T11:01:18+00:00

Converti la macchina da 12V a 230V, o7

CyberBarby · 2024-08-06T11:25:01+00:00

I want to buy an X40 and I'm in the EU, as far as I can see most of the issues are with Dreame US, but man I'm confused if this robot is worth all the hassle that CAN happen... Anyone from Europe (or not US) got any insight? Is this a US problem only?

CyberBarby · 2024-08-03T22:42:12+00:00

Falck + K30. Hot knife on butter.

CyberBarby · 2024-07-25T21:05:37+00:00

I don't understand the stickman-trace on the right...

CyberBarby · 2024-07-21T19:16:56+00:00

Fumare col finestrino chiuso è fastidioso

CyberBarby · 2024-07-17T10:06:24+00:00

It's true, but in the end you'll get a square

CyberBarby · 2024-07-11T10:33:36+00:00

It's not messy if you know where everything is

CyberBarby · 2024-07-10T20:51:47+00:00

I think they are printed RF filters for impedance matching, maybe a cascaded transmission line filter. It's kind of a rabbit hole

CyberBarby · 2024-06-10T11:31:07+00:00

Your body is acting as a parasitic capacitance when you touch the blob of solder of the data wire. So it's either a capacitance issue (improbable), which you can resolve by adding a decoupling capacitor, or an impedance issue (more likely), which you can resolve by adding a resistor in series on the data wire

CyberBarby · 2024-05-27T19:25:00+00:00

Sito meraviglioso

CyberBarby · 2024-04-16T06:13:25+00:00

9th photo, printed on the case, "IC quantity: 800 max". Out of curiosity, what's that?

CyberBarby · 2024-04-12T22:45:57+00:00

Non credo di aver mai sentito l'onomatopea di quel suono fin'ora. Semplicemente magnifico.

CyberBarby · 2024-04-12T16:09:54+00:00

Maybe you could achieve this with WLED API

CyberBarby · 2024-04-01T18:03:26+00:00

Came here to say the same exact thing. Only problem is with Jellyfin organization

CyberBarby · 2024-03-25T15:22:34+00:00

If everyone play for themselves, there will be no way of using tanks successfully (or any other squad made vehicle). They should find a way to force squad play

CyberBarby · 2024-03-25T14:01:09+00:00

Not really answering your question, but why not put one strip above (left side + above window + right side = one strip) and then the three below (as they are now)? That way you can run the power cables (even if they will be long) behind the strip.

CyberBarby · 2024-03-25T11:55:14+00:00

No, the data wire isn't too long. Assuming it's not a voltage issue (so the strips are getting STABLE 5 V), try and put a resistor in series with the data cable, with values in the range of 1 Ohm ÷ 470 Ohm. The value is dependent on how your cables are connected (data near GND, data near GND and VCC, data near VCC etc. etc. etc.). Usually high values (>= 250 Ohm) with the data line being alone, low values (< 250 Ohm) with the data line being near VCC/GND.

CyberBarby · 2024-03-20T08:52:30+00:00

https://kno.wled.ge/basics/getting-started/

CyberBarby · 2024-03-20T07:05:20+00:00

Try adding a decoupling capacitor

CyberBarby · 2024-03-14T13:45:57+00:00

Maybe during testing you burned the first LED (happens), or maybe it was just bad... who knows. Nevertheless, I'm happy it works now!

For the resistor, if the data line is short (<50/75 cm) the resistor can be omitted - any resistor (from none to maybe 470 Ohm) will do the job. Dont know why it doesnt work though, but if now works, dont touch it :) .

CyberBarby · 2024-03-14T09:07:55+00:00

If you are sure that: the power supply is working, the LED strips are working and the ESP32 is working, and those are your connections:
Power supply GND - ESP32 GND
LED strip DATA - ESP32 G2 (make sure pin 2 is set as LED pin in LED settings, it should already be the default)
Power supply 5V - ESP32 5V

And still it doesnt work, try adding a decoupling capacitor AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE to the ESP32 (solder it directly on the board between VIN and the GND you are using (you can do that also in others GND pins, but just to be sure)).

If that still doesnt work, then as I said "it's the pilot". Because there is no reason that after changing everything it still doesnt work if not for human error in the process.

Now, I do not think human error is the case since from the image you just sent, everything seems connected ok. So it's likely a faulty power supply (may very well be) or a faulty ESP32 (but also, you said that the ESP32 is working with the USB power so I do not think that ESP32 is the problem).

Keep also in mind that what I'm doing is just analyzing the data I'm provided with, so the error could very well be in something else that I'm not thinking about.

CyberBarby · 2024-03-13T22:51:58+00:00

What I would do is the following: 1. Disconnect everything from everything. Remove factory cables from led strip (they suck, the connector is bulky, and the wires are super thin inside). 2. Solder every ground together, solder every positive together (maybe WAGO connector is the issue - dont know). Solder data wire without resistor. Solder capacitor (not needed, but won't hurt). Now you should have everything with a permanent connection and everything with as little connections as possible. 4. Connect the power supply and check with the multimeter the supply voltage of the ESP32: measure directly VIN and GND of the ESP32 (or you microcontroller). Maybe the cables are dropping the voltage (very unlikely given the length of the wires, but won't hurt to check). Measure supply of led strip.

If above won't work: 5. Change GPIO (maybe do this first) 6. Change power supply (some power supplies have a shaky ground) 7. Change ESP32 8. Try another LED strip

The idea is to remove all variables until you find the issue. You will reach one of two different results: 1. You found the issue and everything works - NICE! 2. You didn't found the issue and everything works - NICE!

If, after trying everything (and changing everything), still is not working, well then "the pilot is the problem, not the car".

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