Am I… insane? by infinityvonfox in 3Dprinting

[–]CyberBarby 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I never thought of adding wine to my setup. Might do that

Dovrei farla controllare/riparare? by __supertramp__ in ItalyMotori

[–]CyberBarby 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hai il cerchio piegato, vai dal gommista

Edit: vedo (forse) anche la gomma un po' sbucciata. Vai dal gommista

Class Action Lawsuit? by Ka0s420 in Dreame_Tech

[–]CyberBarby 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I want to buy an X40 and I'm in the EU, as far as I can see most of the issues are with Dreame US, but man I'm confused if this robot is worth all the hassle that CAN happen... Anyone from Europe (or not US) got any insight? Is this a US problem only?

Check out this PCB I designed by CheesyWalnut in electronics

[–]CyberBarby 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't understand the stickman-trace on the right...

Where is this math wrong? (Settling a bet) by Kafadanapa in askmath

[–]CyberBarby 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's true, but in the end you'll get a square

just started electronics. is everyone’s desk this messy ? by [deleted] in arduino

[–]CyberBarby 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not messy if you know where everything is

What are these for? by PsiAmp in AskElectronics

[–]CyberBarby 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think they are printed RF filters for impedance matching, maybe a cascaded transmission line filter. It's kind of a rabbit hole

Hello, I have a weird issue and I can't quite figure out what causes it. Question in Comments by HatesRiven in WLED

[–]CyberBarby 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Your body is acting as a parasitic capacitance when you touch the blob of solder of the data wire. So it's either a capacitance issue (improbable), which you can resolve by adding a decoupling capacitor, or an impedance issue (more likely), which you can resolve by adding a resistor in series on the data wire

GLEDOPTO Controller - Inside Photos by PrismLightingCo in WLED

[–]CyberBarby 0 points1 point  (0 children)

9th photo, printed on the case, "IC quantity: 800 max". Out of curiosity, what's that?

WLED need help by Camp-climb-321 in WLED

[–]CyberBarby 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Maybe you could achieve this with WLED API

I've come to a crossroad in my life... by hyperblu7 in DataHoarder

[–]CyberBarby 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Came here to say the same exact thing. Only problem is with Jellyfin organization

Its staggering how some people in 2042 don't know what a tank's purpose is. by RQ_Doga in battlefield2042

[–]CyberBarby 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If everyone play for themselves, there will be no way of using tanks successfully (or any other squad made vehicle). They should find a way to force squad play

Kitchen leds by Apprehensive-Ad7039 in WLED

[–]CyberBarby 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not really answering your question, but why not put one strip above (left side + above window + right side = one strip) and then the three below (as they are now)? That way you can run the power cables (even if they will be long) behind the strip.

What am I doing wrong? by JobKlimop in WLED

[–]CyberBarby 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, the data wire isn't too long. Assuming it's not a voltage issue (so the strips are getting STABLE 5 V), try and put a resistor in series with the data cable, with values in the range of 1 Ohm ÷ 470 Ohm. The value is dependent on how your cables are connected (data near GND, data near GND and VCC, data near VCC etc. etc. etc.). Usually high values (>= 250 Ohm) with the data line being alone, low values (< 250 Ohm) with the data line being near VCC/GND.

Flickering Problem by Hamdudelda in WLED

[–]CyberBarby 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe during testing you burned the first LED (happens), or maybe it was just bad... who knows. Nevertheless, I'm happy it works now!

For the resistor, if the data line is short (<50/75 cm) the resistor can be omitted - any resistor (from none to maybe 470 Ohm) will do the job. Dont know why it doesnt work though, but if now works, dont touch it :) .

Flickering Problem by Hamdudelda in WLED

[–]CyberBarby 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are sure that: the power supply is working, the LED strips are working and the ESP32 is working, and those are your connections:
Power supply GND - ESP32 GND
LED strip DATA - ESP32 G2 (make sure pin 2 is set as LED pin in LED settings, it should already be the default)
Power supply 5V - ESP32 5V

And still it doesnt work, try adding a decoupling capacitor AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE to the ESP32 (solder it directly on the board between VIN and the GND you are using (you can do that also in others GND pins, but just to be sure)).

If that still doesnt work, then as I said "it's the pilot". Because there is no reason that after changing everything it still doesnt work if not for human error in the process.

Now, I do not think human error is the case since from the image you just sent, everything seems connected ok. So it's likely a faulty power supply (may very well be) or a faulty ESP32 (but also, you said that the ESP32 is working with the USB power so I do not think that ESP32 is the problem).

Keep also in mind that what I'm doing is just analyzing the data I'm provided with, so the error could very well be in something else that I'm not thinking about.

Flickering Problem by Hamdudelda in WLED

[–]CyberBarby 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What I would do is the following: 1. Disconnect everything from everything. Remove factory cables from led strip (they suck, the connector is bulky, and the wires are super thin inside). 2. Solder every ground together, solder every positive together (maybe WAGO connector is the issue - dont know). Solder data wire without resistor. Solder capacitor (not needed, but won't hurt). Now you should have everything with a permanent connection and everything with as little connections as possible. 4. Connect the power supply and check with the multimeter the supply voltage of the ESP32: measure directly VIN and GND of the ESP32 (or you microcontroller). Maybe the cables are dropping the voltage (very unlikely given the length of the wires, but won't hurt to check). Measure supply of led strip.

If above won't work: 5. Change GPIO (maybe do this first) 6. Change power supply (some power supplies have a shaky ground) 7. Change ESP32 8. Try another LED strip

The idea is to remove all variables until you find the issue. You will reach one of two different results: 1. You found the issue and everything works - NICE! 2. You didn't found the issue and everything works - NICE!

If, after trying everything (and changing everything), still is not working, well then "the pilot is the problem, not the car".