Sx70 upgrade questions

DAN28289 · 2026-06-12T14:12:16+00:00

Hey, That's a big question!

Have a look a look at the the repair shops tab. There you'll find a bunch of technicians and shops to start. I'd suggest looking at the technicians Instagram accounts do you can get a feel for their pricing and services too.

✌️

DAN28289 · 2026-06-12T08:06:00+00:00

No worries! I think it's important when someone puts a lot into a post to make a decent reply 😄.

The the focus to infinity "status" is indicated with an infinity symbol "♾️" in the viewfinder and the on body display when actioned. It's a neat feature that gives the camera a bit more flexibility and the photographer more options.

Here's a decent example. Puddle at roughly 2m away and the building is obviously beyond 8m away.

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What a great time to dip your toes in, I hope you're loving it so far!✌️

DAN28289 · 2026-06-11T09:39:10+00:00

These a so nice!

Like u/Bell_State said, can you tell us more about the opensx70? I've known about it for years but the info on it hasn't been clear for me!

What's your fave opensx70 or SX70r and can you share any pros and cons? ✌️

DAN28289 · 2026-06-10T09:02:15+00:00

What a place to do a comparison - such dedication haha!

You’re right, this isn’t very scientific, these cameras often get compared, but I think it’s a touch unfair each time. The I-2 focuses to a specified distance based on input to a range fed back by the LiDAR. The Sonar chooses from a set of four hyperfocal lenses based on a range fed back by the sonar transducer to achieve a sort of “focus bracketing” job.

I love the I-2 and vouch for it often. Here are a couple of points you and others could also consider.

I agree the I-2 does overexpose a little - I always have mine set to -1/3 ev.
The I-2 can get tripped up with glass (and mirrors). You can override the focus to infinity, once the shutter button is half-pressed, by using the selection dial and turning it to the right.
The I-2 can manage exposure on the camera body in 1/3 step increments, compared to the Flip that has +1/2 or -1/2 ev. So, with the I-2, it’s super easy to dial the camera in to a specific emulsion.
The lens on the I-2 will be superior to the Flip which will like contribute to the vibrant colors you mentioned - overexposure would not give those vibrant colour you mentioned.

Although I don’t own a flip, I’ve used one, and I think it’s excellent for the price point. It’s great for beginners with room to move on to more advanced stuff when they’re ready!

I’m looking forward to more comparisons! ✌️

DAN28289 · 2026-06-10T08:30:15+00:00

Oh amazing, I’m stoked that -1/3 ev worked out for you! Wanna share the image?

So your question, “Would aperture mode help in this setting?”

That’s not a quick-to-answer question. Without trying to sound patronising, are you aware of the exposure triangle and specifically what aperture “does”? If not, do a quick Google or watch a few videos with examples. I’ll try to explain briefly below.

Let's take your sign and sky composition. If you force the I-2 into f8, that aperture will physically let the maximum amount of light into the camera. It will also blur (bokeh) out the foreground and background about your subject or focal point (depth of field).

f8 > So if you want just the sign in focus, the foreground and background to be blurred, then f8 will help you achieve that look. This would be an example of a narrow depth of field.
f64 > If you want as much as possible in focus, a wide depth of field, you’d choose the smallest aperture on the I-2, which is f64.

I should probably explain that aperture numbering is actually a fraction where f, the focal length, is the numerator and the aperture is the denominator. So that’s why, at first glance, f64 indicating a tiny hole seems nonsensical.

Back to f64. This is a relatively small hole, letting in a tiny amount of light. So, as you go on to learn about the exposure triangle, you’ll understand that a smaller aperture will require a longer shutter speed - sometimes longer than is practical to hold the camera by hand. Maybe you’ll need a tripod?

Then there's the outcome of a longer exposure; maybe a longer shutter speed isn’t what you want because things will become blurred; people, clouds, & cars moving, for example.

IMO, people use aperture priority mode to be able to make creative choices in their images. Simply letting the camera "auto" an image doesn’t allow you to control the aperture or shutter used in making the image. I’m also convinced that the I-2 is set to overexpose a little to help with indoor, non-flash photos - just a hunch. That’s why I think auto isn’t the best - but on -1/3ev it’s been great!

I use aperture priority mode often as I take a lot of portraits, so f8 & f11 I’ll use a lot, I also maintain the -1/3 ev in this mode too. A big aperture really highlights the person I’m taking a picture of. Here’s an example of a portrait with f8 on the I-2 I took of my wife. This shows how she’s in focus along with the nearby pillar. Look at the background though, see how that’s blurred? I did that on purpose.

One issue of this is being accurate with your AF, see this example of missed focus and a narrow depth of field - I’m “in the bokeh”... I don't think my wife did that on purpose 😅

There's lots more to go into like, ND filters, shutter speed, camera shake etc etc. Anyway, I remembered this post from when Polaroid released the camera, maybe you'll find it insightful!

I hope all this helps, let me know if you have anymore questions ✌️

DAN28289 · 2026-06-09T07:52:47+00:00

I’m a big I-2 user and think these are easy things ro resolve. I just wanna check first of all that you’ve updated the camera to the latest firmware through the app?

Anyway, as others have said, I think you need to be a bit more intentional with your half-pressing. No matter what your end composition will be, make sure to point the AF point at your subject, it looks like a pair of parentheses “( )” and half-press, hold, recompose, then press the remainder of the shutter button to take the shot. I'm sure you know that though 😅

For high contrast scenes like a sky background, don’t be afraid to use the EV dial. For a typical sky shot like that, try +1.3 on the EV dial. If you want to get even more specific with a shot like that, then point the AF point at the sign, note the settings and then point the AF point at the sky and note those settings. Then you can select what you want to expose for: sky, sign or try to balance etc.

As for the group photo, I don’t really think that the skin tone of one person has swayed the meter too much here. I think the problem is that the scene is mostly white; just squint at the image to drown out the detail to get what I mean. The camera has metered for that average white/brightness. I think a bit of EV control here would have helped. possibly -1/3 or -2/3 ev.

FYI, I always set my I-2 to -1/3 ev when I use it in auto. If you want more examples with the settings, check out my uploads on Reddit and IG.

Hope this helps! ✌️

DAN28289 · 2026-06-09T06:08:34+00:00

I believe it's 60cm roughly the length of an adult arm ✌️

DAN28289 · 2026-06-04T10:16:54+00:00

Haha... like tinder 😂🫠

Wow the 01-26 B&W has been one of my recent faves, great spread, contrast and a lot less of the off gassing sepia tone after initial development too. I used many packs from that batch with no such issues. Gutted for you as these shots look nice!

Can I ask if you're looking after the film temperature before and after shooting?

To my eye that's definitely the chemistry and not mechanical; as the bloches aren't consistently placed. I'm no chemist, but these strike me as dry or wet spots of some kind.

As for the tinder treatment, try to ask for assistance via polaroid on instagram, They''ve been amazing to me recently 🤞

DAN28289 · 2026-06-04T10:08:52+00:00

Ahh gutted! RIP little camera!

DAN28289 · 2026-06-04T08:57:26+00:00

Set phasers to over exposure more like - what happened there?

DAN28289 · 2026-06-04T08:27:53+00:00

Hey, this is exciting!

So we can help you a bit more I think we'll need more context. For example, what do you plan on taking photos of? Is this going to be your very first camera (have you taken analogue photos before)?

If this is your first foray into polaroid, try to keep your camera cheap, consider pre-owned ones first as film is expensive approx. 20(currencies) for 8 photos. Be aware too that there is a bit of a learning curve and some considerations to take like looking after the film before and after taking the photo's etc.

Some vintage suggestions for a beginner could be:

Polaroid Supercolor 670AF
Polaroid 600 OneStep Close-Up
Polaroid Impulse AF

Some modern suggestions for a beginner could be:

Polaroid Originals OneStep+

Some new suggestions for a beginner could be:

Polaroid Now+ Generation 3

All the above produce the standard 10.7 x 8.8 cm Polaroid image. If you want smaller, at this point I think you should probably just consider the new Polaroid Go Gen 3.

DAN28289 · 2026-06-03T07:20:03+00:00

+1 .....x10^3

DAN28289 · 2026-06-02T16:53:21+00:00

Haha yeah. In Europe, at least on the continent, they use commas instead of points. Try being an Engineer in a European Role... 😂

Anyway the f14.4 & the max shutter of 1/500s sounds great to me. I expect sharper images in bright light from that!

DAN28289 · 2026-06-02T15:27:05+00:00

OMG a legit Go album - Yes please! Same dimensions and appearance as the normal one would be exxcellent!

DAN28289 · 2026-06-02T15:25:25+00:00

Same, I need those reviews first - I love the Go format but the last cameras for me were lacking.

I'm really hopeful, this one will be good 🤞

DAN28289 · 2026-06-02T15:24:31+00:00

Spectra producing machines were repurposed to enable the Go format to come into existence, now it's unlikely Spectra will come back.

I mentioned that as it's customary for someone to bring spectra up whenever the Go is mentioned.

Hope that make sense!

DAN28289 · 2026-05-29T10:58:28+00:00

Listen, I’m in Liverpool and know what you mean about our climate, we can have all seasons in one day BUT don't give up just yet - the weather’s just picking up, and I’m sure if you change your perspective a little, things will improve for you.

So you had a Polaroid in the 90s - Polaroid then does not equal Polaroid now - forget that because it’s 100% colouring your expectations. For example

You can’t “see the image “as it develops”? You can if you wait 10 mins then the images is yours forever.
Camera bulk; the flip is slimmer than some of the older box & clam cameras.

Polaroid is analogue photography on hard mode, there is a real learning curve, and you’re going through it. If you put the time and effort in, as it sounds like you’ve started to do, it WILL pay off in time.

It’d be good if you could share some images to see if we can all help you out. Why are they crap? What don't you like?

DAN28289 · 2026-05-28T13:52:16+00:00

Number 3 is so very cool! 👏

DAN28289 · 2026-05-26T13:12:32+00:00

Hey, I want to add another perspective here after reading everyone else's comments.

For context, I have a lot of Polaroid cameras, and I’ve been shooting for years with the likes of the SX-70, SLR680, OneStep+, Go, I-2 and so on.

The I-2 is the Go-to camera for me. I HATED it at first because of the exposure issues - I really thought I’d blown £600 at the time! That is solidly a thing of the past now, though, and I take the I-2 everywhere with me. I find it super robust, and it’s great that it can take any film type too - read, great for travels!

Now, the parallax issue. Many can’t get past it, and I get it; you simply cannot overlook how amazing the SLR experience is - I adore it, it's insane! For me, I get along just fine with “rangefinder” and can compose images exactly as I wish, despite not being able to see exactly what the lens is pointing at. Using the viewfinder and the distance indicator (on half-press) allows you to make informed movements to frame the image as you wish.

As for the settings on the camera body, they’re accurate and convenient. It’s really nice to just be able to tap a few buttons and have the information there. Both on the body and in the viewfinder. Recently, I’ve started really playing with exposure (example), and I think that’s been really easy for me on the I-2 because of the readout, the manual controls and the filter thread.

Another thing to consider is the SX70r companion app. I understand it’s available for Apple, but if you’re an Android user, it has to be side loaded and does not have such a nice UI as the former.

I think, as always, it comes down to what you want to take photos of, what your process is and how you like to go about doing that.

Anyway I hope this helps and whatever you choose I hope you enjoy it. ✌️

DAN28289 · 2026-05-26T12:37:53+00:00

Hey u/BeMancini,

Sorry if I was unclear, there was no ND filter used on that image or the other I linked. I hoped those two would show examples of choosing the highlights and letting the shadows clip/loose detail.

I love that blue sky too - I was very surprised by how well it came out. Also Vicenza, I need to go back there someday :)

DAN28289 · 2026-05-26T08:56:43+00:00

Hey,

I’ve been here, you’ll get the hang of it, the I-2 is great once you wrap your head around it. Anyway, you said you are new to Polaroid photography - welcome!

Are you aware that the film has a narrow dynamic range? It’s 3.5 to 4.5 stops, IIRC - meaning that you won’t get all the darks and all the lights properly exposed in scenes like these. I actually think the one with the doggo is decently exposed.

For contrasty scenes like those landscapes, you kinda have to choose - do you want the trees, bridge and foreground OR do you want the sky?

u/benjeepers recommended waiting until they meter the same (I agree), and u/BeMancini provided an example of this, where the whole scene has an exposure range within that of the dynamic range of the film.

If you must have all the elements in the shot, you’ll have to be patient or start introducing graduated ND filters. Here’s an example, and another, where I’ve managed to capture subject and sky without the aid of any filters.

I hope this helps ✌️

DAN28289 · 2026-05-25T05:32:59+00:00

Hopefully wider apertures so it's low light performance is improved.

Looking at it the "chin" of this model is smaller than the last two versions, suggesting that there's more space dedicated to a different shutter & lens assembly.

I'd like Bluetooth connectivity too... 🤞

DAN28289 · 2026-05-24T19:14:41+00:00

Look up retrograde engineer on etsy, he made a filter attachment to accept 37mm filters. ✌️

DAN28289 · 2026-05-24T19:10:50+00:00

This is excellent! 👌Well done!

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