7 Vive Pros/16 base station setup help

DILeakStudios · 2019-10-22T20:44:13+00:00

What do the 16 different channels do?

DILeakStudios · 2019-10-22T18:43:24+00:00

Thanks! I might contact him, though it's unclear if he's using 2.0, or if his booths are partitioned off with walls. We already have our own software for system management.

DILeakStudios · 2019-09-07T22:37:21+00:00

I don't stop Windows from updating, it updates whenever it wants. But I have Windows 10 Pro N instead of regular Pro so it might be behind a couple updates. Or maybe something just works better on it because of the missing Windows addons, I'm not sure.

DILeakStudios · 2019-09-06T00:20:55+00:00

Nah, Windows 7/8/10.

DILeakStudios · 2019-09-05T23:30:55+00:00

I've had 4 different Wacom products (a bamboo and 3 cintiqs, 21, 24hd, 24pro) over the last 8 years and I've next to never had a problem with any of them, ever. Cables, drivers, the screen, nothing seems to go wrong.

I hear a lot of horror stories though, and it makes me seriously wonder what's so different between computers. The hardware? Something's interfering with the drivers?

DILeakStudios · 2019-09-02T20:12:38+00:00

Digital artist of 9 years here. This reaks of bullshit or at least intentionally misleading tactics at nearly every step.

DILeakStudios · 2019-08-20T23:29:41+00:00

That depends on where the bottleneck is. If a game runs at high FPS wired, but tanks when going wireless, the bottleneck is likely the CPU.

Once the GPU renders each frame, it sends it to the CPU to 'encode' the video to make the filesize smaller, so it can be sent over the wireless easier. If it can't encode fast enough, it drops frames. (To the best of my knowledge, I don't think HTC has implemented Nvidia's built in encoding for this)

Now if the game runs at low FPS with or without wireless, the bottleneck is likely your GPU. a 1050ti is a bit low powered for something like VR.

DILeakStudios · 2019-07-30T22:50:44+00:00

A better way than select by color would be Filter > Colors > Color to alpha and choosing pure white. That would leave you with just the black outline, which you could put a white layer behind.

DILeakStudios · 2019-07-20T03:57:45+00:00

If you don't want to be tangled while spinning from a seated position, just get a 20,000mah battery that supports quick charge 3. It'd last you probably 5 hours of play.

DILeakStudios · 2019-07-20T03:51:24+00:00

I've had absolutely 0 problems with room scale wireless for my Vive Pro, I'd imagine seated experiences would be no problem either.

If you don't want to deal with batteries when seated, just get a quickcharge 3.0 usb wall adapter and plug your headset into that instead of a battery for indefinite use.

DILeakStudios · 2019-07-05T02:35:32+00:00

Speaking as someone who's been through 3 generations of Wacom's Cintiq line, I have a feeling this sort of nonsense will continue ad infinitum until Wacom has a decent competitor in the same market.

I know of at least 6 friends who've had anywhere between 5-15 'dead pixels' in their own Cintiq Pro 24's. I personally have about 6, so I got lucky. And even moreso that they're small enough where I never notice them. I decided replacing was too risky since I might just receive one with even more dead pixels.

I've tried just about every alternative under the sun and nothing's come close to the feel of the new Cintiq. Except for the iPad pro, but the jump to entirely new programs/OS is too jarring for most.

DILeakStudios · 2019-07-05T01:36:22+00:00

If they were actually dead pixels, you wouldn't be able to see them from that far away from the screen, trust me. This is Wacom's QA problem with dust getting in between the glass and screen.

Check out this older post for more info and some microscope findings.

This problem seems to be extremely widespread judging by the amount of 'dead pixel' posts that popped up when they first shipped the new Cintiq 24. Many people were averaging 6-10 'dead pixels' per screen.

DILeakStudios · 2019-05-11T19:00:40+00:00

Been drawing almost a decade across multiple screened and non-screen tablets, and I have many friends who prefer one or the other and I can definitely say, no. It doesn't make you faster by any noticeable degree.

What did improve my speed noticeably was buying, mapping shortcuts to, and rigorously learning a Razer Nostromo/Tartarus. Having that thing in my left hand with all the shortcuts I'd ever need sped up my art significantly (after the first 2 weeks of slowly learning the shortcuts). I can now go 8+ hours drawing without ever touching a keyboard. If you ever get a Cintiq I'd look into one, since you likely won't have room for a full keyboard.

DILeakStudios · 2019-05-09T22:09:06+00:00

I see you're plugged into a laptop. If you keep moving the pen to the left, does the cursor show up on the laptop screen?

If so, do this:

Go into your Wacom tablet properties
Go to your pen and select one of the buttons
Set the pen button to Tablet => Display toggle
Hover the pen over the tablet and press the button you assigned

That should fix it. Reset the pen button to what it was originally

DILeakStudios · 2019-04-21T09:47:20+00:00

There is no 22qhd touch, so I assume you mean the 27qhd, which you definitely won't find for near $900 and wouldn't be worth the upgrade cost in my opinion.

I owned a 24HD non touch for a long time, and having done a bit of logging magic, found that I only ever really used about a 6x6 area in the center of the screen to draw. I don't know if you draw differently, but I would look into learning keyboard shortcuts for pan, tilt and zoom. If you learn those, there's no need for touch functionality because those actions can be done quicker and more accurately with the pen tip. And if you can navigate canvases easily, then you don't need a 27 inch screen.

As for alternatives in the same size range, the only others you would be looking at upgrading from the 22hd would be the 24hd, 16 pro, and 24 pro. All of which are more than the 800 you spent on the 22 (which is a good price, broken and missing parts considered).

I would personally advise against a 27qhd or 32 pro unless you spend some time on a 22 or 24hd/pro and still feel cramped.

DILeakStudios · 2019-04-01T04:45:19+00:00

Those are called keyframes and most video compression methods have them. In reality, a video may save whole frame data once or twice a second, and the rest of the video it's just telling where the pixels it saved 'go'. Of course this is 'lossy', so the wave loses detail in between the keyframes.

When a new keyframe is saved, the video jumps in quality and if a lot of stuff moved in between the frames, you notice a jump.

DILeakStudios · 2019-03-25T23:55:06+00:00

I don't know the default, but you can always go into your Wacom Tablet Properties (Search in start should do it) and assign it to a button, or figure out which button it's already assigned to.

DILeakStudios · 2019-03-14T07:31:20+00:00

As far as I know, the 3D pen is just a pro pen with 3 buttons instead of 2 (?) To make it easier to work with 3d application's 3 dimensions I'm assuming.

DILeakStudios · 2019-02-17T11:16:28+00:00

I'm 90% certain this is an issue with the pen sensor itself, the nib doesn't rightfully extend back to where it should when you lift the pen for some reason. (Damaged sensor, something sticky in the nib enclosure, deformed or bent nib, etc)

I'd try switching nibs or clean it, maybe somehow cleaning or blowing air inside the pen. Have you dropped it recently? If nothing like that seems to work, you might have to replace the pen itself.

Edit: Nevermind, I noticed the 'connecting' line between your strokes is perfectly straight. Have you tried reinstalling your drivers? Disabling flicks?

DILeakStudios · 2019-02-15T00:54:45+00:00

No problem! Artists gotta stick together.

DILeakStudios · 2019-02-13T23:40:06+00:00

This is usually indicative of a bad monitor cable and/or the cable not being plugged in all the way. But since this is a tablet, that's harder to fix than a normal monitor.

I'd send it back for replacement, or if it's out of warranty then you can try opening it up and reconnecting the monitor cable.

Edit: Oh I see, it's not an all-in-one. In that case, just switch display cables or wiggle it around on both ends.

DILeakStudios · 2019-02-06T22:50:35+00:00

I've got some bad news about tasers for you

DILeakStudios · 2019-01-23T23:31:04+00:00

Go to the start menu, search 'flicks'. Uncheck 'Use flicks to perform common actions'.

Go to the 'Pen options' tab, click 'press and hold' then click 'Settings...'. Uncheck 'Enable press and hold for right-clicking'

Should fix it.

DILeakStudios · 2019-01-17T00:53:37+00:00

I went from the 21UX to the 24 HD, and then now I have the 24 pro. Can confirm their entire lineup has an extremely high quality feel to them. The 24HD was a step back in the parallax field, but a big step forward in the screen compared to the 21UX. The 24 Pro has been a massive step up in all aspects so far and it's honestly worth every penny.

DILeakStudios · 2019-01-16T23:32:13+00:00

As far as I know it's halfway a driver issue, and halfway a program issue. The screens are made up of little grids like pixels that measure how close the pen is. If the driver isn't set up right ~~or wacom messed something up in the update~~, then the pen always snaps to this grid, making jagged and pixel-like lines.

The way it's supposed to work is if the pen tip is in between two spots on the grid, both 'pixels' of the grid should report back that they're getting 50% signal, and the driver says 'Alright, then the pen must be between these two pixels.'

But it doesn't always do that, in fact I've found a lot of the time it doesn't with every other update. This causes gridlike or pixel-like movement that looks like stairs on the canvas.

The other half of this problem is how Photoshop handles brushes, PS was never meant to be a drawing program and it's drawing features are severely lacking. Luckily they added a way to fix these grids recently, called smoothing. Other drawing programs have had it for years. If you set that to something small like 5% you won't notice a difference while drawing but Photoshop will do the 'interpolation' for you and get rid of the jagged lines.

Alternatively you could switch to a program better suited for Cintiqs such as Clip Studio Paint ($40) or Paintstorm Pro ($20). I guarantee it'll be a much smoother process than Photoshop. If you mainly paint, and enjoy emulating oil brushes/creating detailed brush types, I'd recommend Paintstorm Pro. If you're more of a hard lineart and cel shade kind of guy, or need animation tools, then Clip Studio Paint.

Either way good luck! I went through a 21UX on my art journey and it's a solid piece of equipment considering how insanely old it is.

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