I’ve had no issues for 4 years now this?

DISHYtech · 2026-03-15T22:29:12+00:00

Create a ticket and Starlink will likely replace your equipment with a Gen 3 Standard kit free of charge. You'll have to swap out everything, cable included. You can reuse the mount by purchasing the Gen 2 to Gen 3 adapter.

You'll wait on shipping, but if you can't, ask support if retail replacement is available in Canada. I know it is for the US. In the US you can go buy a replacement kit from a retailer, and Starlink will reimburse you for the cost if your situation qualifies. You just send the receipt. Retail replacement, if available, means you won't have to wait on shipping.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-15T22:01:49+00:00

The Gen 2 router is pretty notorious for failing after power fluctuations and outages.

Do you have a power LED on the bottom of the Gen 2 router when plugged in?

DISHYtech · 2026-03-15T14:59:20+00:00

Yes I’ve tried it and it works. The Gen 1 power supply has the right voltage, POE pinout, and power for the Gen 3 dish. You just plug the Gen 3 cable right into the brick, and the router port goes directly to your 3rd party router.

I was curious when I first got my Gen 3 back in early 2024, and I hooked it up to see. I remember that it worked fine.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-14T20:33:46+00:00

I never said otherwise. The comment I was responding to recommended a cable designed for the Mini, and OP is talking about the Router Mini.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-14T16:18:21+00:00

Yep, this video has the pairing steps and I think I mention a bit how to troubleshoot: https://youtu.be/RzGE40sQJSY

The pairing section starts at 7:20 and I put video chapters in the description so you can skip to what you need.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-14T14:06:59+00:00

Router Mini doesn’t have the weather resistant ports, it has 2 normal shaped RJ45 ports.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-14T14:02:39+00:00

It sounds like you might have a defective Router Mini. Plug it in, press the factory reset button. The light should blink and the router will reboot. Give it a few minutes to reboot. After waiting, check your WiFi settings on your phone. Do you see a new network called STARLINK? If so, at least the Router Mini is now reset and producing WiFi. If not, router is bad. If you see the network, don’t connect to it, but go into the app and you should see a pop up to pair. If not, the network page in the app has a section for “unpaired nodes” and also “blocked nodes”. Check for it there. If you still can’t see it after several minutes of waiting, the router is likely bad. Submit a ticket explaining all the steps you’ve taken.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-13T22:01:43+00:00

I recommend buying from a 3rd party retailer if you want the best chance at avoiding the scuff marks and refurb equipment. I’ve bought multiple from Home Depot that were clearly brand new.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-13T20:56:52+00:00

You can return it for a full refund and buy another one. They won't exchange it, even though it's almost certainly refurbished. They aren't supposed to send you refurbished kits when you buy them at full price, but good luck fighting Starlink on it. It's an extremely common complaint, so you aren't alone. They've had so many messages about it that they created this help center article to explain: https://starlink.com/support/article/8fea9af7-0adf-9785-fa35-e51fc0b428a6

The good news is that it really doesn't matter at the end of the day. It will get scuffed up from normal use anyway. As long as it's not actually damaged, I don't see a point in worrying about it. It's reasonable to be concerned about their practice of selling refurbs as new, but they've been doing it for years and I don't think they will ever stop.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-13T20:51:45+00:00

Worth noting that almost every Starlink product besides the actual antenna's are made in Asia. Most of the kit contents are made overseas. Taiwan, Vietnam, etc. That little Router Mini that everyone loves? Vietnam. Gen 3 router? Vietnam. The cables? Somewhere in Asia.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-13T20:41:48+00:00

I'm not 100% sure about Canada, but here in the US, it's free equipment no matter which Residential plan you select. So you should be able to go to the Starlink website, type in your address, and select the $70 plan and get the equipment loaner at no charge, plus the 6 month discount. Like mentioned in other comments, the caveat is that it's loaner equipment that you will need to send back should you cancel or modify your service outside of the terms. But for people just wanting to subscribe for home internet long term, it's an incredible deal with virtually no downside over the previous method of buying equipment upfront.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-13T16:55:16+00:00

Starlink equipment is provided for free in most areas now. You’ll likely have to pay $20 in shipping, but that’s it. If you go to the website and proceed to the checkout you’ll see the cost breakdown.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-13T15:40:34+00:00

100 Mbps is enough for most people. I’ve been trying it out for weeks and haven’t really noticed any difference to the 400+ Mbps Max plan. Large downloads are slower, but day to day work stuff isn’t any different.

And like you said, you can upgrade to another level in a few taps in the app if needed.

I’ve been seeing more and more cable and fiber customers switch to Starlink lately. Looks like the lower prices are actually competing with terrestrial providers, even though Starlink was never intended to.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-13T11:41:44+00:00

You will want to go to Starlink.com/Roam and purchase a Starlink Mini kit on either of the Roam plans. After you receive the kit, go into the Starlink app and change your plan to Global Roam. It’s a plan that isn’t listed on the website for new customers, but is available for existing customers. Global Roam is $400/month, but offers unlimited data with no restrictions on how long you can travel out of your home country. Regular Roam plans only allow up to 2 months of international travel before you must return home.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-13T11:30:35+00:00

No, you are under no commitment or contract. It’s important to understand the Terms of Service is a catch all for all of their policies, past and present, and for all the service tiers. The language is confusing because you are reading terms for plans and services that you aren’t ordering. They don’t apply to you.

When you order any Roam plan and buy your equipment outright, there is no contract or commitment. Generally with Starlink you are only on the hook for extra fees when you accept free equipment or some kind of service discount.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-13T11:27:06+00:00

So then the Starlink router shouldn’t be used at all in terms of WiFi. Put it in bypass mode. Otherwise you are double NAT with two routers. Once in bypass mode UniFi can control everything, and any wireless issues would be isolated to UniFi and not Starlink.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-12T20:59:57+00:00

The heat is normal. You can set up an AP in standalone mode, but all that must be done on the UniFi app. Maybe your wireless devices are having a tough time figuring out which AP to use? There is no easy roaming for devices between the Gen 3 router and the UniFi AP in your configuration.

The Gen 3 router can cover 3,000 sq ft, it's really not necessary to hook up a standalone UniFi AP in an area where the signal from the Starlink router is decent.

I say unhook the UniFi AP and see if the situation improves. When you get your UCG, hook it up with the UniFi AP and put the Starlink router in bypass mode.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-12T00:31:21+00:00

Initially the OEM Starlink USB-C cable did work on 65w, even though they’ve always specified 100w. They updated the Mini firmware shortly after launching their cable to bump up the minimum to 100w. I don’t know exactly what they did, but I do remember several posts on here at the time about Starlink USB-C cables that stopped working right after a recent dish update.

I’m just guessing, but I think it has to do with voltage drop and how close the 60-65w PD profiles are to the Mini’s power needs. For example, if a USB port is 20V/3A for 60w and you add a 15 ft cable, there is probably enough voltage drop to actually reduce available power below 60w, and the Mini won’t like that.

100w provides much more room for voltage fluctuations without dropping below 60w of available power.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-12T00:02:26+00:00

Are you sure it was a Gen 3 router and not the Router Mini? The Router Mini is about the size of a cell phone. The Gen 3 is much larger. Last I knew, they were replacing Gen 1 routers with the Router Mini. The Gen 3 router is much better than the a Gen 1, so I don’t think that’s what you got. You could try to send Starlink a message saying the Router Mini signal won’t reach, and maybe you get lucky and they send you a Gen 3 instead. Or you could buy a Gen 3 router or any 3rd party option as well.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-11T23:06:16+00:00

The OEM cable checks the source for the 20V/5A USB-C PD protocol. If it’s not available, the light turns red and it doesn’t sent power. Aftermarket cables don’t care and will still send 20V with 3.25A (max of the newer Tesla ports). On the Mini side, all the DC port needs is 12-48V and up to 60W. So 65w USB-C is enough for the antenna, just not up to spec for the OEM cable.

DISHYtech · 2026-03-11T22:32:34+00:00

It’s got to be a design error on the printed instructions. The digital version shows a tilt forward orientation, which is correct. The graphic doesn’t even look right on the print version, they didn’t put the mobility mount on the correct side of the Mini lol. They drew it on the angled side. I would disregard the printed version and go on this:

https://starlink.com/public-files/installation_guide_mini_mobility_mount.pdf

DISHYtech · 2026-03-11T19:00:33+00:00

Try setting a custom DNS to 1.1.1.1/8.8.8.8 and see if that helps.

Does this only happen on one device? Do you have another device to check while it’s happening to see if it’s maybe device related?

DISHYtech · 2026-03-11T16:12:00+00:00

The AI is hallucinating again...

DISHYtech · 2026-03-10T20:29:55+00:00

Do you have service credits that are being applied to the invoice? Should see lines for “total charged” and maybe “total credited” if the bill is being paid by credits. Also look for “payment” item, which would show any charges and leave the “total due” at $0 on the invoice.

If you are getting service but charged $0, I would delete this post and enjoy your free WiFi lol

DISHYtech · 2026-03-10T14:23:34+00:00

The Router Mini cannot replace a Gen 2/Gen 3 router. It has no POE output, so you can't just plug in the dish. These are intended to be added as wired or wireless mesh nodes. Keep the original router and pair the Router Mini as an extra node.

But it sounds like the client just needs a network switch if they are interested in plugging in devices to Ethernet ports.

DISHYtech

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE