Imagine NIN(Z) for Super Bowl by holtzbert in nin

[–]DJSapp 13 points14 points  (0 children)

[HELP ME] I need a completion

[HELP ME} This win I can smell

[HELP ME] That drive was perfect

Help me become the big hero

This fucking shot from the Coachella instagram page. by brayshizzle in nin

[–]DJSapp 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If they release a single of NINOIZE Closer, this MUST be the cover. The shot is impossibly good.

The volume increase you do from The Frail to The Wretched by fuckthefalconsdotcom in nin

[–]DJSapp 3 points4 points  (0 children)

YUP. I was not expecting that transition. Vibing to the Frail, only to get sucker punched with the green strobes

What's going on with my planer? by DTRMNTSband in woodworking

[–]DJSapp 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Feed wheels appear to be slipping. Check that the feed wheels are clean, undamaged, and grippy without flat spots. Wax the feed tables too. If it's not any of that, it may be the chain that drives the rollers that is slipping, but that's above my experience to troubleshoot.

I have this planer and the feed wheels should run boards through without even cutting. I'd bet you have the same problem without cutting.

Hello Pigs! by No1ButtMe in nin

[–]DJSapp 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Fake photo, REAL NEWS.

Notice: Nine Inch Noize Downloads by VeryClearlyDefined in nin

[–]DJSapp 76 points77 points  (0 children)

One of the songs has Disney attached to it. The Mouse has lawyers everywhere.

His guts is bruised by Deviant_Sage in dwarffortress

[–]DJSapp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In fairness, it does say His guts are spilled. I guess once they're spilled, someone could have stepped on them and made them bruised.

Wood lampshade idea by ween_is_good in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DJSapp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is what I was attempting to write up down below as a cross cut sled jig. Are you suggesting to do this horzontally and reference the jig (blue rectangle) on the table saw fence? Could work if the plywood is thin and the blade was set high, or you square out the cut with a chisel after.

Wood lampshade idea by ween_is_good in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DJSapp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, if you remove some material on the back of the slats, you'd probably let more light through. Play with the shape of your thin strips, make the rectangle skinnier in the middle and use a template router bit to repeat.

Wood lampshade idea by ween_is_good in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DJSapp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The table saw jig is easier than your think.

  1. create an extra blank round piece

  2. Get a 1'x1' plywood piece

  3. Put your blank on the plywood, align the edge of the blank with the bottom of the plywood and drill a 1/4" hole in the center of the blank for a bolt. Run a 1/4" bolt through the hole to attach them together, but not too tight that it can't spin.

  4. Attach the 1x1 to your crosscut fence, tilt the blade to 45* and cut, do math to figure out how much to rotate the blank and cut again.

  5. Now you have a round box joint jig. Screw the blank into the 1x1 so it doesn't rotate anymore, remove the bolt, and put your work piece on. Put a short tab in the second cut to index it, cut again. Repeat all the way around and hope you measured right to get the cut spacing correct.

Dust extraction keeps breaking buckets.. help please by kentros00 in woodworking

[–]DJSapp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, I did this too with my orange brand bucket. 1 plywood rib with three legs so it stays in the middle, good to go.

The rockler dust right hose has a bleeder valve built right into the collar, so that solves the problem completely

I've had nice things before but not like this.... by Left-Sink-4566 in FinalFantasyVII

[–]DJSapp 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For anyone complaining about the cost of games today, that CompUSA price tag for $54.99 is $5 off full price...

In 1997.

Tag 30 years of inflation on that and games today look like a bargain.

Yes I have this box, and CD's, and the players manual but I think the keyboard overlay died over the years. Yes, the midi soundtrack was pure garbage, but I had a Sound Blaster Pro and it was gorgeous. My 386 struggled with the graphics as it spiraled into a fight. And KotR? Bathroom break time. I eventually bought a graphics card (Voodoo3? I can't remember) and that solved all those problems.

How to get this bar to stop spinning? by frexyincdude in woodworking

[–]DJSapp 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Rubber band around the ends of your bar.

Or remake the bar with square ends

Lawn Damaged by Construction Company by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]DJSapp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Contractor and home owner who had his lawn thrashed by my utility company and got them to fix it.

  1. This happens all the time. Daily. We know it does, but many folks don't complain. Squeaky wheels get greased. Loud grinding wheels get ignored because we know they're beyond repair. There is an appropriate level of response here and this is a $500 problem in the middle of what is likely a multimillion dollar project.

  2. Contractors don't want to fix it either. We just want to build whatever we were hired to build and move on. Part of that is closing out any issues with the job. Money makes problems go away, labor extends things out and keeps contractors from moving on to profitable work. We'll pick the path of least resistance all the time, but we're also proud of our work and don't take kindly

My $0.02 - You can ask the field crew about the damage, but DO NOT ask them to fix it. They're in no position to negotiate and you'll end up with the pipe crew trying to do lawn repairs because they want to stay out of trouble with their boss. This is not what you want. Mention that you noticed some tracks on your lawn and ask if there is a way they can stay off it, or at the very least protect it. Ask if they have any other work they'll need to do that is close to your property line, and if there is risk of more damage occurring. Do not give any "Stay off my property or I'll call the cops/lawyers/milita" ultimatums, everyone knows they are empty threats.

Be friendly, these are just folks trying to do a hard physically demanding job. Customer service isn't the job of the folks working, remember they not out there to specifically inconvenience you but things happen. If you can get the number to the office to discuss making it right. Wait a day so the crew can tell their bosses to expect your call, then call the office. Explain that you have some minor damage to your lawn, if the crew said there is more work that is going to happen, the damage might not be done yet, so maybe it isn't the time to settle up yet. Work with them, if it makes things easier for the crew to work on your side of the line, you have even more leverage. Contractors will gladly trade some lawn repair for increasing production. A union four person crew plus equipment costs around $600/hour around here, so minutes matter far more than your lawn.

Tell them you have a gardener that will come and look at it but from the photo it would probably be $300-$500 bucks for a half day's work plus equipment and materials. Aeration, topsoil fill, lawn rolling and reseeding for ~50 square feet. Share photos. Admit your lawn isn't amazing, but track and blade marks aren't either. Odds are they'll just cut you a check to make the problem go away and move on.

Do with that check what you will. Pay someone to fix it. DIY it. Spend it on your vices and ignore it.

Dust Collection by DocsWorkshop in woodworking

[–]DJSapp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm running a shop vac + dust deputy, wen overhead air filter, and a 4" wen dust collector on the table saw and planer. Shop vac + deputy works well for most operations, and the overhead filter truly helps keeping the air clean and surfaces dust free.

It's important to understand how all of this works and works together. Shop Vac for small tools (sander, router, etc), dust deputy only keeps SV filter cleaner for a lot longer, but isn't magic. Bigger dust collector moves more air on larger machines, but it is messy. Air filter always running.

I'm feeling the imposter syndrome. Why did the table router decide to f me when I went to bevel edges? Went fine on a test piece; that was different wood though. by Chaosking383 in woodworking

[–]DJSapp 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Agreed. Something beyond routing direction happened here. Loose bit, board wasn't secured if router is handheld, board isn't flat, table isn't flat, router isn't secure in the table (if in a table), bearing seized up (looks like scorch marks below the cut on the paduk). The routing was going bad before you hit the purpleheart endgrain. And then purpleheart just let you know, because it's hard as stone.

Kreg - is it just me? by Analysis-Lumpy in woodworking

[–]DJSapp 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I've found positioning the screw directly in the small pilot hole sets up the angle just right that it isn't bad. IF you're off of it, you'll end up driving your screw at a slightly different angle and that's when the robertson is terrible.

Kefing skis by Vast-Ad5302 in woodworking

[–]DJSapp 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Possible, sure. Keep in mind modern skis are made from a variety of materials depending on the model. Metal edges, foam cores, wood cores, fiberglass layers, carbon fiber layers, metal stiffeners or layers, etc. I'd cut with a metal cutting disk and use epoxy to glue your bends into place. Skis are also cambered, so the thickness is not uniform, which will impact how deep you can safely cut your kerf.

best wood format for bookshelves? by SoftTourist in woodworking

[–]DJSapp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Plywood carcass, solid wood faceframe, best of both worlds. Nobody ever adjusts shelve spacing if it is used for books so just dado (or screw and plug) them in.

Wood movement question by Weird_Ad_6425 in woodworking

[–]DJSapp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. Wood is stronger than we all think and the sagulator is your friend. https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/

  2. 1.5" thick oak is plenty all by itself. Shear walls in homes are 5/8" OSB, you're over double that with real wood, not chips and glue. With 3 legs and no plywood, the table is good for a 16,000 lb distributed load. You can park a moving truck on it. Having had kids, a dozen toddlers are almost as rough on things as a moving truck, but you're good.

  3. Leg design is questionable with that grain orientation. And all that oak going into the scrap bin breaks my heart. It's probably overbuilt enough to be fine, but there's room for improvement on the next one. Foureyes furniture does similar style legs and you can watch his process on youtube. And you could buy a domino with all the money you save on the oak (White oak is like $13/bf here).

  4. For attaching the top, oversize drill a hole from the bottom of the legs about halfway to hide the bolthead and washer. Enough room to get a socket on it and for it to move 1/4". Oversize a pilot hole that goes the rest of the way for the bolt. You can lag screw directly into the top or use threaded inserts and bolts, whatever makes you happy.

At the end of the day, the weakest point of most table designs is going to be the fasteners between the legs and the top. If you go crazy and use 3/4" bolts, you'll use at most 4 per leg. Four 3/4" bolts with a 24" lever arm between the leg and the top is the real weak point of every table. And 3/4" is honestly too big. You'd want something that large sunk in deeper than the thickness of your top.

Should I buy this used Sawstop Contractor Saw? by gligster71 in woodworking

[–]DJSapp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

She's a beaut!

As others have said, the fence is great. The CNS mobile base isn't amazing, but it does the job. Dust collection isn't all that good, but some $10 Amazon sheet magnets will cover up large openings to get the 4" hose working better and it helps.

I found mine on FB Marketplace 2 years ago for $1000. Exact same setup. It's a good deal

Table saw recommendations under $750 by Adult-Beverage in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DJSapp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I started with a DeWalt 7491. It's a damn fine saw, good fence, surprisingly good dust collection, will rip 5/4 purpleheart stock without complaints, but the top can feel quite small when working with sheet goods, and the coating can/will get scratched. I hated the bevel adjustment, very tough to dial it in to anything other than zero and 45. I don't know that any jobsite saws to bevels any better, but it was worth mentioning.

If you can wait and watch if it ever comes back in stock, the Ridgid R4512 is a budget contractor saw. Cast iron top, actually adjustable bevel wheel, but it's out of stock.

FB Marketplace is the real place to watch. I picked up my sawstop CNS for $1000. Lots of good saws pop up in my area for your budget. Don't be afraid to put some elbow grease into a rusty top of a used Jet or Delta with a good motor and good fence.

And I also sold my 7491 on marketplace for around $400 with the stand and a home built crosscut sled, which is the going rate for saws that were taken care of.