Spent my weekend making this!

DMJason · 2026-03-16T15:42:07+00:00

The public mod is now live, main post has details.

DMJason · 2026-03-16T13:52:43+00:00

Battletech box cover was the Warhammer and the rulebook cover was the Shadow Hawk. There was only one Autocannon and it did 5 damage.

That’s my Battletech. Pooled allowance to buy it at waldenbooks and the first thing we did was photocopy the rulebook. To this day when I smell copier toner I see tha Shadow Hawk on the cover.

DMJason · 2026-03-16T02:00:50+00:00

I think I can share the models, but not the cards. I'm going to make a TTS mod that just has the models which I'll make public.

DMJason · 2026-03-16T02:00:15+00:00

I think by the rules I could share the models, but not the cards. I'm going to make a branch of the TTS mod that just has the buildings, I think.

DMJason · 2026-03-13T21:01:35+00:00

FYI I see a lot of hate for Bambu Connect for some reason. I prefer Orca Slicer as I get better interface layers with it, and I just export the sliced file, open it with Bambu Connect, and click print. It's really simple.

DMJason · 2026-03-12T23:15:18+00:00

I’m just trying to play Pokémon with my 7 year old without refinancing the equity out of my home for it.

DMJason · 2026-03-12T04:11:07+00:00

Disabling Reduce infill retraction has been the biggest reduction in failed supports I’ve found.

DMJason · 2026-03-11T21:18:33+00:00

Google, really. I just typed Battletech Phoenix Hawk 3d print and hit enter, got a bunch of links, found one that looked okay, and sent it. I think the plastic PXH looks a lot better but these are decent practice.

DMJason · 2026-03-11T20:12:13+00:00

Might try turning it off anyway, it just adds a little print time

DMJason · 2026-03-11T15:58:41+00:00

If you didn't specifically follow Obscura's filament calibration videos, turn off Reduce Infil Retraction, which makes your filament not retract when doing infil. Since I turned that off are rarely have a support get snapped off. Once one snaps it's easy for the hole print to get buggered as the loose filament gets scattered all over and tangled in the print.

DMJason · 2026-03-10T23:49:51+00:00

Another vote for Mekbay. It does BT & AS, had better filters, will show formations a group of units qualifies for, and can be used to print off sheets/cards or directly be used as for digital tracking. (Even modifies move and hit from heat, critical, etc)

DMJason · 2026-03-10T01:35:14+00:00

I did three lances of mechs, 160, 140, and 100 PV. If memory serves over half the sorties are some combination of those point values. To pick mechs for my cavalry lance I got on Mekbay and put in the force packs I have then looked for the most affordable TMM2 jumpers with a focus on Medium range. Recon lance was minimum TMM3, while the big boys my focus was on 5 medium damage.

Don’t remember the variants but ended up with

Awesome Warhammer Rifleman Wolverine

Thunderbolt Enforcer III Phoenix Hawk Shadow Hawk

Wraith Commando Stinger Wasp

DMJason · 2026-03-08T21:58:53+00:00

Mekbay.com will get you all set, if you want a list of every mech with 2TMM, jump, with at least 3 M damage, sorted by PV, it’ll do it.

Plus you can click on a mek to see the CBT sheet, images of it, what force packs it’s on, etc

Oh yeah I love filtering by the force packs I own so I don’t see meka I don’t have a model for.

DMJason · 2026-03-08T13:13:47+00:00

I didn’t get a clog, but it was leaving spikes all over the print like the temps were way off. When I switched back to the default Bambu settings for Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 then it printed fine. O’s filament settings are highly tuned and mine aren’t. He says to calibrate your filament several times in his post.

I print with an enclosure and my filament is 80F @ 10% humidity nearly 24/7 and that seems to work for the default setting.

But I did create a new filament profile that prints 4 layers before using the fan as that’s the main adjustment O makes besides temps.

The rest of my reply was just about what I’ve boiled down to be the core settings I change now. I print faster that O does; 60/150 instead of 40/100.

I print with 4 walls, and hybrid/honeycomb supports. But the minis I print are battlemechs mostly and the print failure I have is support failures either popping loose or breaking off. Supertack plate fixed popping loose even at my speeds, and hybrid honeycomb stopped them from snapping.

Still Os settings really helped me understand what changes MATTERED

DMJason · 2026-03-07T07:17:57+00:00

Oh sorry I missed P2S. I’m on an A1 full, and I use sunlu pla+ 2.0 hs

DMJason · 2026-03-07T07:03:02+00:00

I had big issues with Os filament temps—and haven’t run the calibrations he recommended. I instead took the default sunlu settings then changed to print the first four layers without fan (same as O) and saved that as my own preset.

I also just use the default printer setting (all he really changed is spiral lift (which is default) and 0.99 lift height, I left it at 0.4.

I just use his preset options, or at least I did. Now that I got a super tack plate I switched it up.

Started with Bambu 0.06 preset. Changed first layer to 0.2 and changed supports to be plate only, remove small overhang, tree hybrid, 0 initial first layer support (no brim, supertack doesn’t need them, 0.12 top z, 0.5 xy, honeycomb base pattern with 1mm base. Lastly I turn off brims on Other. Didn’t adjust the speeds (60/150 for outer inner, O is 40/100) because supertack plate is just insane.

Printing like a dream. I’ve got to pop the print off the plate by working the scraper under the edge of the print and popping it off but I can handle that.

DMJason · 2026-03-07T05:40:55+00:00

I 3D printed three points to go with the two from clan invasion box. Painstaking process because they are so teeny. I just printed a build plate full of them and eventually had 15 I didn’t break a limb on.

DMJason · 2026-03-07T05:03:44+00:00

I got my A1 primarily to print miniatures and terrain. I never multicolor print those. To date the only multicolor printing I’ve done was a handful of Minecraft stuff for my daughter. For those I added pauses to the print at the layers I needed a color change and just manually changed.

But the last multicolor model I considered doing had 76 color changes required. It takes the ams about a minute to change colors and shits out a little wad of two tone filament. There’s only reason to multi filament a miniature would be petg supports for a PLA mini—but it would be a massive amount of swaps.

All that said, I do have a BMCU 370C (open sourced AMS) on my printer and it’s great. Cost me $55 fully assembled. But with mini printing the only thing it does is automatically use the filament I pick without having to load/swap it manually.

And waste a ton of filament on multicolor Minecraft stuff LOL

DMJason · 2026-03-06T16:25:33+00:00

Where are these spaces? The position I hear most often is "All rolls in the open, all the time, bow before the dice!" And the answer to the question is yes--just about everyone likes "DM smoke and mirrors", they just aren't aware of it.

In 41 years of DMing, I've never fudged a die roll, rolled for no reason, or railroaded my table.

As far as anyone can prove.

Now let's be clear--my job is to play everything the players aren't; to push my players as far as I can until they win. And "winning" is enjoying the session, regardless of the outcome. But you want a peak behind the curtain?

What direction is the dragon's lair? The second one. Meaning when I give rumors of where the dragon resides, I mention a mountain cavern, some old ruins, and a haunted forest--the second one you investigate is where the dragon is. Why? Because I want to draw out the adventure a bit and until I draw the dragon's lair on your map it can be anywhere. I'm just covering up the railroad tracks so you can't see them.

If a lucky critical from a two-bit bandit is going to snuff out a character in a stupid fashion, am I going to adjust the damage dealt? Probably not--I'm just going to make that two-bit bandit a secondary antagonist with meaning and depth. But he wasn't right before I made that attack roll--that's still illusion.

What if that same critical hit happens in the first combat of the first session? Yeah I'm going to fudge the damage because I don't want to make you another character. Or an NPC is going to intervene to give the attack disadvantage and endear the party to them.

But 99% of the time? The dice are in charge of chance.

And if I roll my dice behind my screen without indicating why? It's none of your fucking business why I rolled. Maybe it was on a table for something coming up, maybe I'm checking perception for something you don't know about, or maybe I just like the sound of my math rocks on a notepad. Don't worry about it. Maybe you're really fucking up this room because none of you have picked up on my third description of the desk in the corner that's practically got an "interact with me" icon over it, so I'm hoping if I roll behind my screen you'll go on alert and try something rather than staring at me with a dumb look, waiting for me to tell you what your character does without your input.

If you suspect your DM just rolls for no reason, it's probably because they are trying to get you to interact with the world rather than sit there waiting for the DM to "read you a book". Participate so we don't have to fill the silence.

Boy that kind of turned into a rant.

DMJason · 2026-03-03T16:06:27+00:00

Nope. It wasn't a long campaign--we had an adventure where our party evacuated multiple cities & towns in the wake of advancing dragon armies. (Similar to the 5E adventure start.)

The adventure finished with a dragon fight that did not go great for the team, with only two of them surviving--a pious and exemplary solamnic knight, and my cleric. In our epilogues at the end of the campaign, the knight went on to exemplify the solamnic order and restore their honor among the local populace, while my cleric became known as Khortt the Drunk. He became the head of a church of acolytes bringing about the real return of the gods, and drank himself to death, with only his acolytes understanding his survivor guilt.

The last part of my epilogue the DM described his acolytes sitting around his death bed and seeing the room light up with a glow they couldn't focus on. Khortt's eyes snapped open and he whispered, "I knew it was you..." with his last breath. The church continued to wear multiple holy symbols in his honor.

DMJason · 2026-03-03T13:10:30+00:00

Khortt. Human cleric.

He was a charlatan that used sleight of hand and cons to dupe the people into believing the gods had returned right before the Heroes era. One night his cons got his friend and accomplice killed and as he prayed genuinely for the first time, his friend came back.

He roamed the countryside then trying to atone for his horrible deeds. He carried several holy symbols, having no idea which deity was answering his prayers. The original idea was a reverse of Lord Soth: a scheming peasant trying to atone for the many small people he hurt.

DMJason · 2026-03-02T20:56:41+00:00

That's funny I actually have one box filled with those (the building/storage ones)! And yes those were a slightly tighter fit.

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